Thesis (Ph. D.)--Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University. / Vita. Abstract. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 109-116). Also available via the Internet

With the arrival of European settlers to Western Oregon nearly 150 years ago came new methods of forest management. Early settlers' forest practices consisted of little more than harvesting what seemed an endless supply of timber. Forestry in the 20th century eventually incorporated such management concerns as re-forestation, biodiversity, wildlife sciences, recreation, and cultural resources. While forest practices in the Pacific Northwest changed dramatically during the 20th century, clothing worn by those most commonly associated with the field, the "logger," remained relatively unchanged. While much information has been published regarding the often over-romanticized life of the logger, information regarding the day to day-life and associative material culture remains almost nonexistent. As the 20th century economy in the Pacific Northwest became less dependent on the wood products industry, the culture and way of life for those whose lives centered around this once thriving industry began to disappear. My interest in this subject developed out of my personal experience working in the woods throughout the Pacific Northwest for seven years, as a forest fire fighter and park ranger for the Bureau of Land Management, and as an archaeologist for the U.S. Forest Service and Oregon State University Research Forests. In this study, I gathered collective memories from 18 individuals who logged throughout Western Oregon between 1920 and 1970. Informants were asked a series of questions pertaining to their logging careers and the clothing they wore. Often termed "old-timers," these informants served as the primary resource of information about work clothing worn by loggers in Western Oregon between 1920 and 1970. Published information describing the history of logging in the Pacific Northwest, photographs provided by informants showing them at work, the examination of catalogues from manufacturers of men's work clothing, and interviews with representatives of work clothing companies served as secondary resources. Published materials detailing work clothing worn by loggers is relatively nonexistent. Consequently, persons with first hand knowledge wearing logging work clothing are in many instances the only sources of information. Photographs furnished by subjects, showing them wearing their work clothing were collected as supportive material. While interviewing subjects for this project, additional questions beyond the scope of the project were asked. Subjects were asked related questions about other types of clothing they wore during their careers. Other areas of logging history and culture explored during interviews consisted of information about changes they observed in the technology of logging hand tools and machinery, land management and associative forest practices, and first hand experiences observing fellow workers severely injured or killed while working in the woods. With the passing of each "old-time" logger, a living connection between the present and the past, and the stories in between, are gone forever. This project helps to present a written record of some of these connections. / Graduation date: 2000

Typescript (photocopy). / Digitized by Kansas Correctional Industries

Dissertation (Ph.D.)--The University of North Carolina at Greensboro, 2008. / Directed by Nancy Hodges; submitted to the Dept. of Consumer, Apparel and Retail Studies. Title from PDF t.p. (viewed Jan. 28, 2010). Includes bibliographical references (p. 212-221).

Thesis (M.F.A.)--Ohio State University, 2008. / Title from first page of PDF file. Includes bibliographical references (p. 165-180).

The application of the industrial-design mindset of problem solving into the product design category of apparel design is something that intrigued me.Work-wear can be seen as professional sports apparel or equipment, for a usergroup with varying body sizes and shapes this of course in combination with trying to cater to users with widely different needs.The work-wear industry is one of many where users of many different professions are often bundled together as a wholeand given their equipment based on what would serve the average of this large group the best and as with many other categories of product design, it is driven by cost effectiveness. In many cases, this works just fine, but when it doesn’t, that is where problems occur. In this project the topic of “futureworkwear” is approached with a user centered design perspective to understand the issues and problems found within the area of workwear to better be able to provide innovative and new solutions to problems of visibility, ergonomic adjustability and tool carrying. The project also aims to explore the innovative future of smart garments and how this is best implemented in a natural and meaningful way providing the users of work-wear with added value.The result of the project is a new toolcarrying belt & harness combination, giving the user the possibility to adjust how and where tools are worn on the body and being able to ergonomically adjust how the tool carrier fits. All while also equipping the user with smart technology to provide a safer work environment in a non-intrusive way.

Garment fit is a complex concept made up of objective and subjective variables. It can be measured in terms of functional ease, garment ease, comfort, and appearance. The success of any garment design is dependent upon the suitability of fit for intended end use. Garment fit is fundamental to user satisfaction. One type of garment where fit is essential is protective clothing. Protective clothing should minimize discomfort to the wearer, maximize the level of environmental protection, and provide minimum interference with the task being performed. Because of consumer complaints about the fit of protective clothing, a recommendation for revision of current sizing specifications has been made by the Industrial Safety Equipment Association (ISEA). The purpose of this research was to evaluate the fit of limited-use protective clothing manufactured to the proposed size revision of ANSI/ISEA 101-1985 Men’s Limited-Use and Disposable Protective Coveralls Sizing and Labeling Requirements. Garments which met minimum specifications were provided in three styles by manufacturers. Subjects were obtained at agricultural conferences sponsored by the Virginia Cooperative Extension Service. After selecting garments according to height and weight measurements, subjects were asked to wear the garments while completing an exercise work protocol designed to represent common body movements. Data were collected with a questionnaire concerning overall fit, ability to perform a job while wearing the garment, and whether the garment was too large or too small. Results were used to analyze and make recommendations concerning 1) static fit and dynamic fit, 2) key body measurements other than height and weight needed to select garments, 3) required ease, and 4) the effects of design on fit. Significant results made it possible to make recommendations concerning amounts of ease necessary for overall fit as well as dynamic and static fit. However, evidence was inconclusive in regard to garment design. Comparisons between body and garment measurements were not definitive enough to make recommendations for use of any body dimensions other than height and weight for size selection. Recommendations were made that more anthropometric data be collected for this purpose. / Ph. D.