by Wong Tak-ching. / Bibliography: p. 136-139 / Thesis (M.Ph.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1985

published_or_final_version / Geography and Geology / Doctoral / Doctor of Philosophy

Foram estudadas as condições sanitárias e realizada a classificação das águas do mar destinadas à balneabilidade, de praias do Estado do Paraná. Para isto, foram selecionadas as praias de Leste (L), Gaivotas (G), Caravela 2 (CL), Betaras (B) e Marajá (MJ), com baixa afluência de banhistas e as de Matinhos (M), Caiobá (C) e Guaratuba (GB) com alta. Nestas praias foram predeterminados 22 locais de colheita e, através de amostragem sistemática e periódica, foi colhida uma amostra de água do mar de cada local, durante 50 semanas consecutivas entre 7 de janeiro e 15 de dezembro de 1980, perfazendo um total de 1100 amostras. A partir de cada amostra realizou-se a determinação dos Números Mais Prováveis (NMP) de bactérias coliformes totais e de coliformes fecais por 100 ml de água. Os NMP de bactérias coliforrnes totais e de coliforrnes fecais por 100 ml, observados para as amostras de água do mar obtidas nos 7 locais de colheita situados nas praias de Leste, Gaivotas, Caravela 2, Betaras e Marajá, foram de maneira geral baixos, não se verificando variação acentuada entre os valores encontrados. As ãguas nestes locais estudados mostraram-se em boas condições sanitárias, apesar de alguns valores apresentarem-se mais elevados, principalmente, no período de classificação de 17/Mar./80 a 14/Abr./80. As amostras de água do mar obtidas nos 15 locais de colheita das praias de Matinhos, Caiobi e Guaratuba, revelaram-se com os NMP de bactérias coliformes totais e de coliformes fecais por 100 ml mais elevados, sobretudo nos períodos compreendidos entre 7/Jan./ 80 e 14/Abr./80 e no de 17/Nov./80 a 15/Dez./80. Nestes períodos, as águas mostraram-se em geral, em piores condições sanitárias, enquanto nos demais, os NMP daquelas bactérias revelaram-se, na grande maioria das vezes, mais baixos. Durante o período da pesquisa foram realizadas, para cada local de colheita, 20 classificações das águas quanto a sua qualidade para fins de balneabilidade, sendo 10 relativas aos resultados dos NMP de bactérias coliformes totais e 10 de coliformes fecais por 100 ml de água. Cada classificação foi feita de acordo com o padrão nacional vigente do Ministério do Interior, no final de cada conjunto de 5 semanas consecutivas e, portanto, após terem sido analisadas 5 amostras de água correspondentes a cada um dos locais de colheita. De modo geral, as águas do mar das praias estudadas revelaram-se proprias à balneabilidade, ou melhor, com qualidade excelente, excetuando-se os locais M1 e M2 da praia de Matinhos e C4 da de Caiobá. Os locais M1 e M2 revelaram-se com águas impróprias à balneabilidade, sendo uma vez para ambos, com relação aos valores dos NMP de bactérias coliformes totais e 4 e uma vezes, respectivamente, quanto aos NMP de bactérias coliformes fecais. O local C4 foi classificado com águas impróprias à balneabilidade apenas uma vez, com base nos NMP de bactérias coliformes fecais encontrados. / Sea water from beaches of the State of Paraná, Brazil were studied considering sanitary conditions, in order to classify them regarding bathing conditions. The following beaches were chosen: Leste (L), Gaivotas (G), Caravela 2 (CL), Betaras (B) e Marajó (MJ), which present lüi\'v\' affluence and Matinhos (M), Caiobá (C) and Guaratuba (GB) presenting high affluence. Twenty-two predetermined collecting places were stablished. Using systematic and periodic sampling, samples were collected from each place during 50 consecutive weeks, between January 15 through December 15, 1980, totalling 1,100 samples. On each sample Most Probable Number (MPN) of total coliform bacteria and fecal coliform bacteria per 100 ml of water were determined. MPN for both types of bacteria was low at the seven collection places of L, G, CL, B and MJ beaches, not differing significantly one from another, showing good sanitary conditions. Some values were rather higher during the period March 17 through April 14, 1980. Water from the 15 collection places located on M, C and GB beaches showed higher values, especially between January 7 through April 14, 1980 and between November 17 through December 15, 1980. Sanitary conditions were better at the others periods, in general. During the study period waters were classified 20 times, 10 regarding total coliformes and 10 regarding fecal coliforms, each classification relating to five weeks periods. Ministery of the Interior standards were used. On the whole water from the beaches studied can be considered of excelent quality regarding bathing conditions. Localities M1 , M2 and C4 were exception, however. M1 and M2 revealed improper for bathing, once each, regarding total coliform MPN. Considering fecal coliforms M1 showed improper conditions four times and M2, once. C4 showed improper conditions regarding fecal coliforms only once.

Foram estudadas as condições sanitárias e realizada a classificação das águas do mar destinadas à balneabilidade, de praias do Estado do Paraná. Para isto, foram selecionadas as praias de Leste (L), Gaivotas (G), Caravela 2 (CL), Betaras (B) e Marajá (MJ), com baixa afluência de banhistas e as de Matinhos (M), Caiobá (C) e Guaratuba (GB) com alta. Nestas praias foram predeterminados 22 locais de colheita e, através de amostragem sistemática e periódica, foi colhida uma amostra de água do mar de cada local, durante 50 semanas consecutivas entre 7 de janeiro e 15 de dezembro de 1980, perfazendo um total de 1100 amostras. A partir de cada amostra realizou-se a determinação dos Números Mais Prováveis (NMP) de bactérias coliformes totais e de coliformes fecais por 100 ml de água. Os NMP de bactérias coliforrnes totais e de coliforrnes fecais por 100 ml, observados para as amostras de água do mar obtidas nos 7 locais de colheita situados nas praias de Leste, Gaivotas, Caravela 2, Betaras e Marajá, foram de maneira geral baixos, não se verificando variação acentuada entre os valores encontrados. As ãguas nestes locais estudados mostraram-se em boas condições sanitárias, apesar de alguns valores apresentarem-se mais elevados, principalmente, no período de classificação de 17/Mar./80 a 14/Abr./80. As amostras de água do mar obtidas nos 15 locais de colheita das praias de Matinhos, Caiobi e Guaratuba, revelaram-se com os NMP de bactérias coliformes totais e de coliformes fecais por 100 ml mais elevados, sobretudo nos períodos compreendidos entre 7/Jan./ 80 e 14/Abr./80 e no de 17/Nov./80 a 15/Dez./80. Nestes períodos, as águas mostraram-se em geral, em piores condições sanitárias, enquanto nos demais, os NMP daquelas bactérias revelaram-se, na grande maioria das vezes, mais baixos. Durante o período da pesquisa foram realizadas, para cada local de colheita, 20 classificações das águas quanto a sua qualidade para fins de balneabilidade, sendo 10 relativas aos resultados dos NMP de bactérias coliformes totais e 10 de coliformes fecais por 100 ml de água. Cada classificação foi feita de acordo com o padrão nacional vigente do Ministério do Interior, no final de cada conjunto de 5 semanas consecutivas e, portanto, após terem sido analisadas 5 amostras de água correspondentes a cada um dos locais de colheita. De modo geral, as águas do mar das praias estudadas revelaram-se proprias à balneabilidade, ou melhor, com qualidade excelente, excetuando-se os locais M1 e M2 da praia de Matinhos e C4 da de Caiobá. Os locais M1 e M2 revelaram-se com águas impróprias à balneabilidade, sendo uma vez para ambos, com relação aos valores dos NMP de bactérias coliformes totais e 4 e uma vezes, respectivamente, quanto aos NMP de bactérias coliformes fecais. O local C4 foi classificado com águas impróprias à balneabilidade apenas uma vez, com base nos NMP de bactérias coliformes fecais encontrados. / Sea water from beaches of the State of Paraná, Brazil were studied considering sanitary conditions, in order to classify them regarding bathing conditions. The following beaches were chosen: Leste (L), Gaivotas (G), Caravela 2 (CL), Betaras (B) e Marajó (MJ), which present lüi\'v\' affluence and Matinhos (M), Caiobá (C) and Guaratuba (GB) presenting high affluence. Twenty-two predetermined collecting places were stablished. Using systematic and periodic sampling, samples were collected from each place during 50 consecutive weeks, between January 15 through December 15, 1980, totalling 1,100 samples. On each sample Most Probable Number (MPN) of total coliform bacteria and fecal coliform bacteria per 100 ml of water were determined. MPN for both types of bacteria was low at the seven collection places of L, G, CL, B and MJ beaches, not differing significantly one from another, showing good sanitary conditions. Some values were rather higher during the period March 17 through April 14, 1980. Water from the 15 collection places located on M, C and GB beaches showed higher values, especially between January 7 through April 14, 1980 and between November 17 through December 15, 1980. Sanitary conditions were better at the others periods, in general. During the study period waters were classified 20 times, 10 regarding total coliformes and 10 regarding fecal coliforms, each classification relating to five weeks periods. Ministery of the Interior standards were used. On the whole water from the beaches studied can be considered of excelent quality regarding bathing conditions. Localities M1 , M2 and C4 were exception, however. M1 and M2 revealed improper for bathing, once each, regarding total coliform MPN. Considering fecal coliforms M1 showed improper conditions four times and M2, once. C4 showed improper conditions regarding fecal coliforms only once.

A multi-decadal survey program undertaken at the Collaroy-Narrabeen embayment in SE Australia identifies medium-term (~2-7 year) cycles of both erosion and accretion across the entire embayment ('beach oscillation') and at its two extremities ('beach rotation'). These cycles have been observed to respond to phase shifts in the El Ni??o/Southern Oscillation (ENSO). To investigate wave and climate controls of embayment variability in finer detail, this study combines historical surveys with 45 years of wave data from the ERA-40 reanalysis and four years of high-resolution beach measurements using RTK-GPS and image-derived survey techniques. ENSO and Southern Annular Mode (SAM) controls of wave variability in the Sydney region are first explored. In general, wave heights increase/decrease and wave directions become more easterly/southerly during La Ni??a/El Ni??o phases. A positive correlation is observed between the SAM and summer wave heights, and a negative correlation between the SAM and winter wave directions. Storm variability is observed to be modified by the ENSO, but not the SAM. In particular, La Ni??a phases are generally associated with longer duration, higher energy events from a more easterly direction when compared to those during El Ni??o phases. Wave controls of embayment variability are subsequently investigated. In the short-term (days - months), beach oscillation/rotation is observed to be the most dominant process, accounting for approx. 60%/20% of overall embayment variability. Beach oscillation is related to changes in wave height and storms, whereas beach rotation is related to changes in wave direction and/or wave period. An empirical model that estimates the beach response to individual storm events is developed. In the longer-term (months - years), beach rotation is observed to respond to both wave heights and directions. Larger waves are sheltered somewhat at the southern end, creating an apparent clockwise rotation under energetic wave conditions. Clockwise/anticlockwise rotations are also observed to follow southerly/easterly wave shifts at lags of up to 12 months. Comparisons between the ENSO and beach oscillation/rotation agree with previous observations that El Ni??o/La Ni??a phases are associated with an overall accretion/erosion and clockwise/anticlockwise rotation of the embayment. In general, the SAM shows little influence on embayment variability. While it is clear that beach oscillation is driven by cross-shore processes, to what extent beach rotation is a longshore and/or cross-shore phenomena requires further investigation.

Thesis (M.P.H.)--Oregon State University, 2008. / Printout. Includes bibliographical references. Also available on the World Wide Web.

Beach advisories are issued at recreational beaches when the water quality exceeds regulatory limits for the indicator organism, enterococci. Elevated levels of enterococci have been observed at Hobie Cat Beach, the study marine beach site, located on Virginia Key, Florida. The study site represents a classic non-point source sub/tropical marine recreational beach area with high human and animal use, representative of many beaches worldwide in sub/tropical areas. The dissertation consisted of two separate but related studies: the first to identify environmental and geographic factors, and the second to evaluate the impact of known animal sources of enterococci. The first efforts were made to identify the geographic location of the source of enterococci to the beach waters and to assess the environmental factors that impact the variation in concentrations observed at the site. These environmental factors and conditions include: proximity to shoreline, tidal changes, impacts of runoff, and sunlight intensity. Enterococci were enumerated by traditional membrane filtration or the chromogenic substrate method. Overall, results showed that the source of enterococci to the study beach was geographically located within the inter-tidal zone. These results suggest that the wash-in of sediments and accompanying pore waters (where the pore water is the water filling the spaces between grains of sediment) from the inter-tidal zone play a major role in controlling enterococci levels within the water column. Wash-in occurs through both tidal fluctuations and runoff. The second effort evaluated non-point sources, including animals, which are known to contribute to elevated levels of enterococci in recreational marine beach waters. Specifically, feces from dogs, birds, and shrimp mounds were collected from the beach; additional bird fecal samples were collected from both a local zoo and bird rehabilitation center. Fecal samples were weighed gravimetrically, and enumerated for enterococci using traditional membrane filtration method. The total numbers of animals which frequented the site were obtained through camera image analysis and in-field visual counting surveys. The highest enterococci concentrations were observed in dog feces (avg. 7.4 x 10^6 CFU/g dry feces), then birds (avg. 3.3 x 10^5 CFU/g dry feces) and the lowest measured levels of enterococci were observed in shrimp fecal mounds (2.0 CFU/g dry feces on average). A comparison of the microbial load (CFU per fecal event) showed that 1 dog fecal event was equivalent to 6,940 bird fecal events or 3.2 x 10^8 shrimp fecal events. Given the abundance of animals observed on the beach, these study results suggest that dogs are the largest contributing source of enterococci to the beach site (6.3 x 10^11 CFU per day during weekends and 2.9 x 10^11 CFU per day during weekdays), with humans (4.6 x 10^9 CFU per day during weekends and 4.8 x 10^8 CFU per day during weekdays) and birds (2.7 x 10^8 CFU per day) serving as secondary contributors. Shrimp served as an insignificant source (1.9 x 10^4 CFU per day). When maximum daily contributions were considered, dogs contributed the highest proportion of enterococci (99.2%) compared to humans (0.72%), birds (0.04%), and shrimp (<0.04%). Beach management efforts at the study site should thus focus on requiring dog owners to properly dispose of dog feces deposited at the beach.

Aeolian sand transport models, widely employed by coastal scientists and managers, assume temporal and spatial homogeneity within the saltation field. This research questions that assumption by demonstrating that the saltation field is event-driven, therefore indicating that the saltation field is not temporally steady. The findings from this research may explain a portion of the conclusions from previous studies that indicated inequalities between model-estimated and field-measured aeolian sand transport. The relationship between unsteadiness in a turbulent wind field and pulses in a sand transport field was investigated on a beach near Shoalhaven Heads, New South Wales, Australia. Microphone-based saltation sensors, “miniphones,” and thermal anemometers (both instruments constructed exclusively for this field experiment) were co-located (0.02 m separation on center) and deployed between 0.01 and 0.0225 m above the bed, and sampled at 6000 Hz. Average grain size at the field site was 0.30 mm. Five runs totaling 2050 seconds of wind and saltation data were analyzed. The continuous wavelet transform, using the Morlet wavelet base, was the principle method for analyzing the wind and saltation records. The cross continuous wavelet transform was used to analyze the wind and saltation time series concurrently. Wind, saltation, and cross events were discerned by selecting wavelet power coefficients between wavelet scales of 0.4 and 3.0 seconds and with coefficients exceeding the 95% confidence interval. Average event spacing was 6.10, 6.50, and 6.73 seconds for the wind, saltation, and cross events, respectively. The average event spacing measured in this research was compared to the empirical-based model presented by Rao, Narashimha, and Narayanan (1971). The correspondence between the model and this research strongly suggests that bursting-type coherent structures were present. The durations of average wind, saltation, and cross events were 1.87, 2.10, and 1.73 seconds, respectively. Integral time scales, calculated using normalized auto correlation and power spectral density analysis, were approximately two seconds for the wind and saltation systems. The temporal coincidence of the integral time scale estimations and the event durations for the wind and saltation system strongly suggests that wind events are driving sand transport events.

The prediction of morphological responses of natural and engineered beaches to the prevailing wave, tide and wind conditions continues to be a challenge due to the wide variability in site conditions and the underlying complexities of the processes involved. For this reason, field measurements, especially with a good spatial and temporal resolution, play a critical role in monitoring the performance of intervention work. This thesis presents the results of a five-year study at Aberdeen beach on the North Sea coast of the UK, with the aim of obtaining and analysing high-quality field measurements of beach dynamics before and following beach nourishment and the installation of nearshore breakwaters. Beach topographic data were collected between June 2006 and July 2011 at approximately monthly intervals using real time kinematic GPS, augmented by Argus video monitoring. An assessment of the horizontal and vertical errors of the Argus system found it to be comparable to other similar installations. The initial response of the area of beach subject to recent intervention works was the formation of stable bays in the lee of the nearshore structures, making this zone morphologically distinct from other areas of the beach. Time-synchronous wave data was collected from nearshore wave buoy measurements, or derived from transformed Met Office model-predicted wave data, and were considered in relation to the timing of beach morphology responses to the prevailing wave conditions. A strong link was observed between the 30-day average wave height and the beach dynamic, with erosion commencing when Hm0 rose above 1 m, and antecedence being an important factor in beach response to successive winter storm events. The data and insights from the present study can be used to develop better predictive models and coastal monitoring strategies. Future studies seeking to further understand beach response would benefit from the ability to capture variation within tidal cycles, and to be able to connect the beach to wider nearshore and offshore bedforms and marine processes.

published_or_final_version / Zoology / Master / Master of Philosophy