Abstract  Background:   The main aim of the research is to focus on the market potential of the cosmetic brands in the market of Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao (ABC islands). These islands are located in the Caribbean Sea in front of the coast of South-America. Before starting to expand, international companies first search for potential suitable markets to invest in. This thesis attempts to find out if there is a potential market for the cosmetic products of the companies on the ABCislands. 　 Purpose: The purpose of the Master thesis is to find out if there is a potential market for new cosmetic products on the ABC islands. To achieve the purpose, the research addresses the market potential analysis.  Conclusion:   The market of Aruba and Curacao offer a great number of potential clients and a good future prospect. These findings are also supported by research that was conducted in 2007 by the Icongrouponline.  Majority of the consumers on the islands are willing to try new professional cosmetics products. Additionally, the tourism industry plays an important role when assessing the market potential on these islands for professional cosmetics products.  Key words:   Internationalization, market selection, market potential and development, entry mode, cosmetics products, Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao

The present diploma thesis is focused on the selected anti-aging substances in cosmetic products. The literature research provided us with the knowledge of essential skin characteristics and factors influencing the aging process. Furthermore, the thesis describes the basic physical forms of cosmetic products, the basic cosmetic materials and the current trends in the usage of anti-aging substances. The experimental part subsumes altogether four physical forms of cosmetic products – tonics, serums, masks and creams. In this work was testid a new anti-aging compound, developer by French company SOLABIA, which provided the company Miša a Harašta s.r.o. (M+H). It has tested four components: Fucogel, Camaderm Gly, Viniderm and Omega Ceramid. These anti-aging substances were addend to the four technology cosmetic form, which were prepared in our laboratory. Subsequently, the pH stability of the products was measured together with the rheological measuring and skin hydration measuring. All of the samples proved to be pH stable. The highest stability of viscosity and consistence was identified for masks and creams. It was found out that the added anti-aging substances have no impact on the stability of pH, viscosity and consistency. The skin hydration measuring proved that the anti-aging substances Vinidem and Camadem Gly have the greatest moisturising qualities.

Depuis le 11 juillet 2013, date d’application du Règlement cosmétique (CE) No 1223/2009, les metteurs sur le marché sont dans l’obligation de mentionner sur leurs produits la Date de Durabilité Minimale (DDM), ou si celle-ci excède 30 mois, la Période Après Ouverture (PAO). L’estimation de ces dates n’est pas encadrée réglementairement. Cosmetics Europe, l’Agence nationale de sécurité du médicament et des produits de santé, le Comité scientifique pour la sécurité du consommateur ou encore la Commission Européenne proposent des lignes directrices, mais les conditions d’étude pour la détermination de la DDM et de la PAO restent encore à l’appréciation de la personne responsable de la commercialisation du produit. L’objectif de ce travail était d’étudier les conditions nécessaires à la mise en place d’un protocole de mesure de la stabilité d’émulsions cosmétiques, permettant de déterminer la DDM du produit de manière fiable et rapide. Pour cela, une approche expérimentale sur une émulsion représentative de l’industrie cosmétique a été menée. L’évolution des paramètres organoleptiques, physico-chimiques et microbiologiques a été évaluée, en accéléré (température augmentée) et en temps réel. Une approche statistique a montré que les propriétés sensorielles évoluent différemment en fonction de la température et du matériau dans lequel l’émulsion est stockée. L’établissement d’un modèle de correspondance entre le vieillissement en conditions réelles et en conditions accélérées a pu être proposé pour certains paramètres physico-chimiques. Les études de microbiologie se sont tout d’abord concentrées sur la validation d’une méthode commerciale, alternative au dénombrement des germes aérobies totaux encadré par la norme ISO 21149, pour une application dans le domaine cosmétique. Après validation, la méthode a été utilisée comme un outil simple, rapide et économique pour le suivi de la stabilité microbiologique de l’émulsion de référence. La dégradation des conservateurs et de l’antioxydant présents dans la formule de référence a été suivie par chromatographie en phase gazeuse couplée à la spectrométrie de masse (GC-MS). Ce suivi a permis de mettre en évidence l’effet probable de la lumière sur la dégradation des actifs de l’émulsion. A ces tests ont été associés une stratégie analytique visant à étudier la photostabilité de l’émulsion. Les études ont porté sur deux molécules : l’acide déhydroacétique et l’alpha-tocophérol. La stratégie a permis de caractériser les mécanismes impliqués dans les réactions de photodégradation. La chromatographie en phase gazeuse couplée à la spectrométrie de masse multi-étapes (GC-MSn) et la chromatographie en phase liquide couplée à la spectrométrie de masse haute résolution en tandem (LC-HR-MS/MS) ont été utilisées pour la séparation et l'identification structurale des photoproduits. La détection des photoproduits majoritaires dans l’émulsion de référence, après irradiation UV-visible, montre la possible formation des photoproduits dans une matrice complexe de type émulsion huile/eau. Les résultats des tests de toxicité, in silico et/ou in vitro, ont démontré l’importance de prendre en compte la formation éventuelle de photoproduits dans l’évaluation de la sécurité d’un produit cosmétique. / According to Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009, implemented in July 2013, the manufacturer must mention the Date of Minimum Durability (DMD), or if DMD exceeds 30 months, the Period After Opening (PAO) on the product packaging. At the present time, no text regulates the procedures applicable to the validation of a DMD or a PAO. Some guidelines are published by Cosmetics Europe, the National Agency for the safety of medicines and health products, the Scientific Committee for consumer safety, or the European Commission; but the evaluation remains at the discretion of the person responsible for marketing the product. In this context, this work proposes recommendations to establish a stability protocol in order to quickly determine the DMD. Experimental approaches on an emulsion representative of the major category in the cosmetics industry have been established. Organoleptic, physicochemical and microbiological stabilities were evaluated. The emulsion stability has been tested in accelerated conditions and in real time. A statistical approach has been proposed to evaluate the product shelf life according to its organoleptic properties. The sensory properties of the cosmetic emulsion changed differently depending on the temperature and the material in which it has been stored. A mathematical correlation between the results of studies under normal and those obtained under accelerated conditions has been proposed for some parameters. A microbiological study focused on the validation of a commercially available method, alternative to total count of aerobic microorganisms, normed by the ISO 21149 for cosmetic application. Once validated, this method has been used as an economical, quick and easy tool to evaluate the microbiological stability of cosmetic emulsions. Gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry was used to follow the degradation of antioxidant and preservatives. To take into account the photostability of the emulsion, an analytical strategy was proposed to identify the mechanisms involved in phototransformation reactions. The study focused on two molecules: dehydroacetic acid and alpha-tocopherol. Both gas chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) and liquid chromatography coupled with ultrahigh resolution mass spectrometry (LC-UHR-MS) were used for the separation and the structural identification of photoproducts. The main photoproducts were detected in the reference emulsion after UV-visible irradiation, thus showing the possible formation of photoproducts in a complex oil/water emulsion. Both in silico and in vitro toxicity tests highlighted the need for taking into account the potential formation of photoproducts in the safety evaluation of a cosmetic product.

The thesis is focused on theoretical principles of demarcation of products with health effects in the EU law and on the reflection of these issues in the application and administrative practice in commercial law. The thesis developed yet been brought judicial interpretation with the scientific interpretation of certain key and decisive problems that separate from each other law-regimes of regulation: medicinal product for human use, foods, cosmetics products, medical devices and biocides. Correct law-regime for a particular product is determinating of the general legal basis in the EU internal market. It is therefore a important problem not only in EU law, but also in EU economic. Thesis results are highly critical of current practice in the local markets of EU member states, especially Czech Republic, and in many instances documented sub-optimal application of this law in general practice.