Deodorants are cosmetic products that are consumed by people regularly and globally. In this thesis, the opportunities to develop a deodorant for the Swedish cosmetics brand IDUN Minerals AB is investigated. The deodorant market in Swedish pharmacies, deodorant formulation and deodorant packaging are studied. Furthermore, controversial ingredients, such as synthetic aluminum compounds, are explored. The scientific aspects of using synthetic aluminum compounds, which are used as antiperspirant in deodorants, are investigated. There is a general fear that they may increasethe risk of developing breast cancer. However, after a full review of exciting scientific evidence, it is clear that there is currently no study that can prove or disprove the suspicions. The use of aluminum-based antiperspirants therefore continues to be a controversial topic. The conclusion of this thesis is that there is a market opening for IDUN Minerals, especially since they aim for a synthetic aluminum-free, unperfumed and preservative-free deodorant. Furthermore, it is concluded that a Nordic Swan Ecolabel would make their product uniquein its product category. Lastly, it is determined that traditional plastic packaging is more accessible and possesses many favorable properties, but that bioplastics should be further researched. / Deodoranter är kosmetiska produkter som dagligen används av människor världen över. I denna rapport undersöks möjligheterna att implementera en deodorant i det svenska kosmetikföretaget IDUN Minerals AB:s produktsortiment. I rapporten kartläggs deodorantsortimentet på svenska apotek, samtidigt som deodoranters innehåll och paketering undersökts. Vidare granskas kontroversiella ingredienser, såsom syntetiska aluminiumföreningar. Syntetiska aluminiumföreningar, vilka används som antiperspiranter i deodoranter, misstänks öka risken för bröstcancer hos människor. Efter en fullständig genomgång av befintliga studier kan det dock fastställas att det inte finns någon studie som kan bevisa eller motbevisa misstankarna. Användningen av aluminiumbaserade antiperspiranter fortsätter därför att vara ett kontroversiellt ämne. Slutsatsen av denna rapport är att det finns en marknadsöppning för IDUN Minerals, särskilt eftersom företaget strävar mot en deodorant utan syntetiska aluminumsalter, parfym eller konserveringsmedel. Dessutom kan slutsatsen dras att en eventuell Svanen-märkning skulle göra deodoranten unik i sin produktkategori. Slutligen har det fastställts att traditionella plastförpackningar är mer tillgängliga och att de erbjuder fördelaktiga egenskaper, men att bioplaster fortfarande bör undersökas ytterligare.

Elastic sculpture - Cylinders Each object is created from men´s deodorant (spray) and silicone rubber. Shape and scale of the object depends on a size of spray which is cast in the geometric shape. Inflating the object by compression on the top part makes fast deformation or destruction. Instalation include 5-10 objects.

The aim of this graduation thesis is to provide detailed description of actual state of Czech male deodorant and antiperspirant market with putting emphasis on Axe brand, which makes efforts to become the leading brand of this dynamic market. The thesis is structured into three chapters. First chapter is mapping Czech male deodorant market and Czech retail market as well. Axe brand and its local and global activities are introduced in the second chapter. Last chapter of graduation thesis extensively describes evolution of single indicators in Czech male deodorant market which are decisive for practical area of trade marketing.

The goal of Master's Thesis on topic Segmentation of antiperspirants and deodorants is to discover differences in consumer's behaviour, determinate and describe segments of consumers based on these differences and propose marketing strategy for the most attractive segments. Theoretical part describes market segmentation in general, process of segmentation and segmentation criteria. Analytic part characterizes Czech market of antiperspirants and deodorants, analyzes ACNielsen market data and discovers marketing communication of key producers. The main part of Thesis focuses on the process of segmentation -- market determination, key segmentation kriteria setting, questionary, segments determination and main characteristics. At the end two most attractive segments are chosen and marketing strategy for them is proposed.

Este trabalho teve como objetivo a reprodução, avaliação e caracterização de manchamentos provocados por desodorante antitranspirante, suor, produtos do processo de lavagem como detergente em pó, amaciante, temperatura de passadoria em camisetas de malhas de algodão. Buscando uma melhor caracterização destes manchamentos, foram realizados três grupos de estudo com indivíduos selecionados, propensos à obtenção de manchas na região das axilas. Os indivíduos fizeram uso de desodorante com e sem perfume e utilizaram camisetas por um período de onze dias, sendo que um dos indivíduos fez uso apenas da camiseta sem desodorante e, uma das camisetas foi submetida ao desodorante sem uso por indivíduos. Ao final de cada dia, as camisetas foram lavadas com detergente em pó, amaciante, secas em secadora e passadas, simulando uma condição de uso doméstico. As camisetas manchadas foram submetidas às avaliações instrumentais de espectrofotometria (colorímetro), Microscopia Eletrônica de Varredura (MEV), análise por Dispersão de Energia (EDS) e medição da efusividade e condutividade térmica e Espectrometria de Emissão Atômica por Plasma Acoplado Indutivamente (ICP-OES). Essas camisetas também foram submetidas a dois processos de remoção: por lavagem a seco (LS) e por agentes químicos (RAQ). Após o processo de remoção, as camisetas foram submetidas à avaliação colorimétrica instrumental, condutividade e efusividade térmica, MEV, resistência à ruptura. As análises colorimétricas para todas as camisetas utilizadas pelos participantes dos grupos de estudo mostraram valores de E* de (0,87 a 32,43), indicando uma alteração de cor perceptível visualmente na região das axilas. As microscopias das amostras também mostram um acúmulo de alguns materiais nessa região que pode ter influenciado a troca de calor do material com o ambiente, como mostraram os resultados de efusividade e condutividade. Este material acumulado, analisado pela técnica de ICP-OES, mostrou que a camiseta manchada apresentou 99,7% de alumínio a mais do que na camiseta original na região da axila, o que pode ser oriundo do contato com o desodorante que também apresenta elevados teores de alumínio em sua formulação. Os métodos utilizados para remoção apresentaram resultados satisfatórios, promovendo a remoção dos manchamentos nas camisetas, observado através da diminuição dos valores de E* e nos índices da Escala Cinza de Alteração da Cor, na avaliação colorimétrica instrumental. Entretanto, o processo de remoção por agentes químicos apresentou melhores resultados, tendo cerca de 70% de eficácia quando comparados ao método de lavagem a seco, podendo ser um método mais efetivo na remoção deste tipo de manchamento. / This work was carried out to reproduction, evaluation and characterization of staining caused by antiperspirant deodorant, sweat, products of the washing process and detergent powder, fabric softener, temperature ironing shirts in cotton knits. Searching for a better characterization of these staining, three groups of studies selected, prone to getting stains on the underarm area individuals, were performed. Individuals made use deodorant and fragrance with shirts and used for a period of eleven days, and one of the subjects only used the shirt without deodorant and one of the shirts was submitted to without deodorant use by individuals. At the end of each day the shirts were washed with detergent powder, fabric softener, dryer dried and pressed, simulating a condition of household. The stained shirts were subjected to instrumental evaluations spectrophotometry (colorimeter), Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), Energy Dispersive analysis (EDS) and measuring the effusivity and thermal conductivity and Atomic Emission Spectrometry by Inductively Coupled Plasma (ICP-OES). These shirts were also subjected to two processes: removal by cleaning (LS) and chemicals (RAQ). After the removal process tees instrumental colorimetric evaluation, conductivity and thermal effusivity, SEM, tensile strength were submitted. colorimetric analyzes for all t used by the participants of the study groups showed values of E * (0.87 to 32.43), indicating a change of color visually noticeable in the underarm area. The microscopy of the samples also showed an accumulation of some materials in this region that may have influenced the heat exchange material with the environment as showed the results of effusivity and conductivity. This accumulated material, analyzed by ICP-OES technique, showed that the stained shirt showed 99.7% more aluminum than the original shirt, which can be derived from contact with the deodorant that also has a high concentration of aluminum in its formulation. The methods used for removal showed satisfactory results, promoting the removal of staining tees, observed by decreasing the values of E * and indexes of Gray Scale Change Colors, instrumental colorimetric evaluation. However, the process of removal by chemical agents showed better results, about 70% efficiency when compared to the method of cleaning, may be a more effective method in removing this type of stain.

It was long believed that humans were unable to utilise the odours of conspecifics to co-ordinate social interactions in ways in which other species appear to be capable. However, a surge in interest in human social olfaction has recently challenged this view. The numerous studies conducted in this area have found that multiple state and trait related cues can be detected in body odour. Furthermore, many studies indicate that women are often more sensitive to these cues, and that sensitivity can be associated with fertility, findings that are consistent with sex differences in reproductive effort and benefits of choosiness in mate-searching. Since previous studies in this area have usually addressed the potential for humans to use olfactory communication in a comparable manner to other mammals, they typically involve collection and assessment of ‘natural’ odour. That is, they explicitly exclude the possibility of ‘contamination’ of odour samples by artificial fragrances. However, humans have used artificial fragrances for millennia, across many different cultures. This raises the question of whether widespread fragrance use may affect or disrupt the detection of this information in modern humans. The first aim of this thesis was to address this question by investigating how fragrance use may mediate the detection of olfactory information in humans. As well as providing further evidence for sex differences in the assessment of olfactory cues, and for the role of olfaction in real world partner choice, the findings herein suggest that fragrance may act differently on different information being assessed, potentially masking accurate assessment of certain traits (such as masculinity), while fragrance choice and preferences may be important in complementing other olfactory information (such as the general distinguishability of an individuals’ odour profile). A second aim of the thesis was to develop a scale in order to more accurately describe the varying perceptual qualities of human body odour – in other words to map human body odours. This work was conducted alongside perfumers in order to benefit from their expertise in olfactory perception and semantic labelling of odours. The development of such a scale could enable improved understanding of the perceptual qualities of human odour, making it possible to link specific perceptual qualities to specific cues (e.g. symmetry, masculinity, sex) or to manipulate odours based on perceptual qualities in experimental settings, and has direct practical implications for fragrance designers and for improving the ability of individuals to choose fragrance products that suit their odour profile. The second section of the thesis focuses on the effects of odours on the individual wearer as well as on perceivers in the environment. One study is presented which investigates the role of malodour reduction compared to the addition of fragrances in perceptions of confidence and attractiveness, finding that both the reduction of malodour and the addition of fragrance appear to be important for confidence as rated by others in the environment. The final study presented in the thesis examines a hitherto un-investigated role of olfaction during human pregnancy. The rationale for the study is based on evidence suggesting that in certain non-human species, which also show bi-parental care of offspring, there may be a role for chemical, or odour based, communication which underpins behavioural and endocrinological changes related to infant care behaviours in males. The study found little evidence to support the presence of analogous olfactory signalling during human pregnancy, though the findings are discussed in light of methodological changes which, if made in future studies, may result in different outcomes. The thesis concludes with a discussion of the importance of continuing to investigate various forms of olfactory communication, as well as improving our understanding of odours through the mapping of their perceptual qualities, and finally further examining the ways in which various fragranced products, which are widely used in society, may affect all of this. Future directions for this area of research are discussed. This line of investigation will, I argue, enable us to finally establish the true role of olfaction in contemporary social environments.

Este trabalho teve como objetivo a reprodução, avaliação e caracterização de manchamentos provocados por desodorante antitranspirante, suor, produtos do processo de lavagem como detergente em pó, amaciante, temperatura de passadoria em camisetas de malhas de algodão. Buscando uma melhor caracterização destes manchamentos, foram realizados três grupos de estudo com indivíduos selecionados, propensos à obtenção de manchas na região das axilas. Os indivíduos fizeram uso de desodorante com e sem perfume e utilizaram camisetas por um período de onze dias, sendo que um dos indivíduos fez uso apenas da camiseta sem desodorante e, uma das camisetas foi submetida ao desodorante sem uso por indivíduos. Ao final de cada dia, as camisetas foram lavadas com detergente em pó, amaciante, secas em secadora e passadas, simulando uma condição de uso doméstico. As camisetas manchadas foram submetidas às avaliações instrumentais de espectrofotometria (colorímetro), Microscopia Eletrônica de Varredura (MEV), análise por Dispersão de Energia (EDS) e medição da efusividade e condutividade térmica e Espectrometria de Emissão Atômica por Plasma Acoplado Indutivamente (ICP-OES). Essas camisetas também foram submetidas a dois processos de remoção: por lavagem a seco (LS) e por agentes químicos (RAQ). Após o processo de remoção, as camisetas foram submetidas à avaliação colorimétrica instrumental, condutividade e efusividade térmica, MEV, resistência à ruptura. As análises colorimétricas para todas as camisetas utilizadas pelos participantes dos grupos de estudo mostraram valores de E* de (0,87 a 32,43), indicando uma alteração de cor perceptível visualmente na região das axilas. As microscopias das amostras também mostram um acúmulo de alguns materiais nessa região que pode ter influenciado a troca de calor do material com o ambiente, como mostraram os resultados de efusividade e condutividade. Este material acumulado, analisado pela técnica de ICP-OES, mostrou que a camiseta manchada apresentou 99,7% de alumínio a mais do que na camiseta original na região da axila, o que pode ser oriundo do contato com o desodorante que também apresenta elevados teores de alumínio em sua formulação. Os métodos utilizados para remoção apresentaram resultados satisfatórios, promovendo a remoção dos manchamentos nas camisetas, observado através da diminuição dos valores de E* e nos índices da Escala Cinza de Alteração da Cor, na avaliação colorimétrica instrumental. Entretanto, o processo de remoção por agentes químicos apresentou melhores resultados, tendo cerca de 70% de eficácia quando comparados ao método de lavagem a seco, podendo ser um método mais efetivo na remoção deste tipo de manchamento. / This work was carried out to reproduction, evaluation and characterization of staining caused by antiperspirant deodorant, sweat, products of the washing process and detergent powder, fabric softener, temperature ironing shirts in cotton knits. Searching for a better characterization of these staining, three groups of studies selected, prone to getting stains on the underarm area individuals, were performed. Individuals made use deodorant and fragrance with shirts and used for a period of eleven days, and one of the subjects only used the shirt without deodorant and one of the shirts was submitted to without deodorant use by individuals. At the end of each day the shirts were washed with detergent powder, fabric softener, dryer dried and pressed, simulating a condition of household. The stained shirts were subjected to instrumental evaluations spectrophotometry (colorimeter), Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), Energy Dispersive analysis (EDS) and measuring the effusivity and thermal conductivity and Atomic Emission Spectrometry by Inductively Coupled Plasma (ICP-OES). These shirts were also subjected to two processes: removal by cleaning (LS) and chemicals (RAQ). After the removal process tees instrumental colorimetric evaluation, conductivity and thermal effusivity, SEM, tensile strength were submitted. colorimetric analyzes for all t used by the participants of the study groups showed values of E * (0.87 to 32.43), indicating a change of color visually noticeable in the underarm area. The microscopy of the samples also showed an accumulation of some materials in this region that may have influenced the heat exchange material with the environment as showed the results of effusivity and conductivity. This accumulated material, analyzed by ICP-OES technique, showed that the stained shirt showed 99.7% more aluminum than the original shirt, which can be derived from contact with the deodorant that also has a high concentration of aluminum in its formulation. The methods used for removal showed satisfactory results, promoting the removal of staining tees, observed by decreasing the values of E * and indexes of Gray Scale Change Colors, instrumental colorimetric evaluation. However, the process of removal by chemical agents showed better results, about 70% efficiency when compared to the method of cleaning, may be a more effective method in removing this type of stain.

Dans cette thèse, nous avons démontré la faisabilité de la préparation de polymères à empreinte moléculaires (MIP) hautement sélectifs pour la reconnaissance dans des matrices aqueuses complexes avec des applications dans les cosmétiques et en technologie alimentaire. Les MIP (de l'anglais molecularly imprinted polymers) sont des récepteurs synthétiques comparables aux anticorps, qui sont synthétisés par co-polymérisation de monomères fonctionnels et réticulants en présence d'un gabarit moléculaire. Leurs propriétés de reconnaissance moléculaire, associées à leur grande stabilité, robustesse mécanique, faible coût et leur synthèse facile les rendent extrêmement intéressants comme matériaux de capture sélective, avec des applications dans les séparations analytiques, la détection et la vectorisation des médicaments. Cependant, leur reconnaissance sélective dans des milieux aqueux reste toujours problématique et c'est l'une des raisons de leur expansion commerciale restreinte. Dans une première partie, nous avons développé un MIP fonctionnant en milieu aqueux pour son application comme ingrédient actif dans un déodorant. Les odeurs corporelles sont principalement dues à des acides gras volatils générés à partir de leurs précurseurs, des conjugués de glutamine par des enzymes hydrolytiques produites à partir de bactéries présentes sur la peau. La plupart des anti-transpirants et des déodorants actuellement commercialisés contiennent des sels d'aluminium et des agents antibactériens non spécifiques, respectivement. Cependant, l'utilisation extrêmement étendue de ces produits nécessite des solutions alternatives en ce qui concerne divers problèmes (environnement, respect de l'écosystème de la peau, toxicité, etc.). Pour cette raison, un MIP a été synthétisé pour capturer les précurseurs conjugués de glutamine afin qu'ils ne soient plus disponibles aux bactéries, empêchant ainsi leur transformation en composés malodorants. Afin de générer des liaisons sélectifs dans des environnements aqueux, un monomère à base d'amidinium qui peut former une interaction électrostatique stoechiométrique forte avec les groupes carboxyle sur le gabarit moléculaire a été synthétisé. Le MIP, mélangé dans une formulation dermo-cosmétique, pourrait capter sélectivement les précurseurs conjugués de glutamine, au milieu d'une multitude d'autres molécules présentes dans la sueur humaine. En outre, le MIP n’affecte pas les bactéries de la peau, ouvrant la voie à des déodorants innovateurs de nouvelle génération, moins problématiques pour la santé. Dans une deuxième partie, nous avons développé une procédure rapide et efficace basée sur l'extraction en phase solide à empreinte moléculaire (MISPE) pour la purification sélective de la bétanine et de son stéréoisomère l’isobétanine à partir d'extraits de betterave. La bétanine est un pigment naturel ayant un fort pouvoir antioxydant et dont les propriétés pharmacologiques sont de plus en plus étudiées. Ce pigment est actuellement utilisé comme simple colorant alimentaire. Dans notre étude, l'acide dipicolinique a été utilisé comme gabarit moléculaire pour la synthèse de MIP, en raison de sa similarité structurelle avec le groupe chromophore de la bétanine. Les procédures MISPE ont été optimisées permettant l'élimination presque complète des glucides issus de la matrice végétale ainsi que la majorité des protéines, ce qui permet d'obtenir un rendement élevé d'extraction de la bétanine / isobétanine en une seule étape. De plus, toute la procédure d'extraction a été réalisée dans des solvants respectueux de l'environnement, tels que l'éthanol ou l'eau. Pour conclure, nous sommes convaincus que ce travail pave le chemin au développement d'une nouvelle génération des MIP fonctionnant en milieu aqueux avec des propriétés de reconnaissance améliorées dans des environnements complexes, qui pourra s'appliquer également à d'autres domaines biotechnologiques et biomédicaux. / In this thesis, we have demonstrated the feasibility of preparing highly selective molecularly imprinted polymers (MIPs) for recognition in complex aqueous matrices with applications in cosmetics and food technology. MIPs are synthetic tailor-made receptors, with binding affinities and specificities comparable to those of natural antibodies. Their molecular recognition properties, combined with their high stability, mechanical robustness, low cost and easy synthesis make them extremely attractive as selective capture materials with applications in analytical and preparative separations, sensing and drug delivery, among others. However, their selective recognition in aqueous samples still remains problematic and is one of the reasons for their so far lilited commercial expansion. In the first part, we developed a water compatible MIP for its application as an active ingredient in a deodorant. Body odors are mainly due to volatile fatty acids generated from their glutamine conjugate precursors by hydrolytic enzymes from bacteria present on the skin. Most currently marketed anti-perspirants and deodorants contain, respectively aluminum salts and unspecific antibacterials. However, the extremely wide use of these products requires alternative solutions with regard to various problems (environmental, respect of skin ecosystem, toxicity, etc.). For this reason, a MIP was developed to capture the glutamine conjugate precursors so that they are no longer available to the bacteria, thus preventing their transformation to malodorous compounds. In order to generate binding selectivity in aqueous environments, an amidinium-based monomer which can form a strong stoichiometric electrostatic interaction with the carboxyl groups on the template, was synthesized. The MIP, blended in a dermo-cosmetic formulation, could capture selectively the glutamine precursors, amidst a multitude of other molecules present in human sweat. Furthermore, the MIP did not affect the skin bacteria, paving the way to an innovative and 'safer ' future-generation deodorant. In the second part, we developed a fast and efficient procedure based on molecularly imprinted solid­ phase extraction (MISPE) for the selective clean-up of betanin and its stereoisomer isobetanin from red beetroot extracts. Betanin is a natural pigment with significant antioxidant and biological activities currently used as food colorant. Dipicolinic acid was used as template for the MIP synthesis, because of its structural similarity to the chromophore group of betanin The MISPE procedures were optimized allowing the almost complete removal of carbohydrates and the majority of proteins, resulting in high extraction recovery of betanin / isobetanin in a single step. Moreover, the whole extraction procedure was performed in environmentally friendly solvents with either ethanol or water. To conclude, we believe that this study paves the way towards the development of a new generation of water compatible MIPs with improved recognition properties in highly complex aqueous environments, and should be applicable to other biotechnological and biomedical areas as well.