The matching of colours on dyed fabric is an important task in the textile industry. The current method is based on the matching the visible reflectance spectrum to standard spectral libraries. In this study, the amount of dye on various wool and wool-blend fabric was measured using vibrational-spectroscopic techniques. FT-IR PAS and FT-Raman spectroscopy was used to analyse the following set of samples: woollen fabrics (supplied by CSIRO- Geelong, Australia), dyed with Lanasol dyes (Red 6G, Blue 3G and Yellow 4G) and wool/polyester fabrics (supplied by Ceiba-Geigy, Switzerland), dyed with Forosyn dyes (grey, yellow, green, brown, orange, red). A minimum of six spectra was recorded for each sample. The spectra recorded were consistent with those reported previously. FT-IR PA spectral data were block normalised with Y-mean centring and examined using Principle Component Analysis (PCA) and Partial Least Squares (PLS). Although PCA separates the woollen fabrics dyed with a combination of two colours, it does not do equally well for samples dyed with three colours. The dyed wool/ polyester blend samples appeared in a totally random fashion on the PCA plot. The PLS analysis of PA spectra of various ratios of dyes on woollen fabrics as well as wool/polyester blend was found to be a viable procedure and should be investigated further, perhaps with a broader set of data. FT-Raman spectra were examined using PCA and PLS. The best pre treatment for FT-Raman spectral data was found to be normalising followed by Y-mean centring. The PCA plots demonstrate that woollen samples are separated according to the dye ratios and that the presence or absence of some of the peaks is influenced by individual dyes. For example, the presence of the peak at 1430cm 1 is inversely related to the presence of blue dye on the fabric. The PLS resulted in SEE and SEP values of around 1 and 2 respectively indicating that the prediction of the dye ratios have not been very successful and suggesting that there was some problem with the measured values of the calibration set. PCA plots of wool/polyester fabrics dyed with a single colour indicate that PC1 separates the samples according to how close the shades are together, while PC2 and PC3 separate samples according to their individual colours. PC4, although explaining only a small percentage of variance, suggests that the samples are not homogeneously dyed. PCA plots of the samples dyed with various combinations of the three main dyes display each cluster of samples in their right position on the colour card. Calculated SEE and SEP values (Yellow: ~0.30, ~0.55, Brown: ~0.30, ~0.79, Red: 0.16, 0.49 and Grey: ~0.2, ~0.40, respectively) indicate that FT-Raman spectroscopy and chemometrics may offer promising methods for measuring the ratio of various dyes on wool/polyester fabrics. FT-Raman spectroscopy and chemometrics were also used to investigate the change in the ratio of dyes on UV-treated dyed woollen samples. Samples were weathered for 7 and 21 days, using accelerated weathering instrument. The substrate subtracted spectral data were normalised to 100% substrate of the first derivative (9 points and 7 degrees) followed by double centring of the matrix in the spectral region of 1500-500cm-1. PCA effectively separated non-irradiated from the irradiated sample but did not separate the irradiated samples further according to the number of days of irradiation. The pre-treatment used for PLS was first derivative of substrate subtracted spectral data normalised to 100% substrate, and then Y-mean centred. PLS failed to predict the ratio of the irradiated dyes very well. This may be because degradation products are not modelled by PLS or because the total amount of dye has reduced without changing the dye ratios.

Thesis (M.F.A.)--Rochester Institute of Technology, 1988. / Includes bibliographical references (leaf 24).

Mikrofibersläpp vid tvätt lyfts ständigt som ett återkommande problem eftersom de små fragmenten leds ut i vattendragen och påverkar miljön negativt. Mängden mikroplaster är svåra att se och mäta vid endast visuell antydan. Med hjälp av en ny standard för bestämning av mikrofibersläpp finns det nu möjligheter till att bestämma mängden fibrer som lossnar påverkas vid tvätt. För att textilbranschen ska kunna bli mer hållbar krävs ytterligare undersökningar på huruvida teoretisk hållbara val av tillverkningsmetoder verkar i praktiken. Genom att använda sig av olika testmetoder för en simulerad åldring på textilier med olika infärgningsmetoder kan användningsfasens visuella och fysiska påverkan studeras, för att på så vis underlätta vid hållbara val i den textila värdekedjan. Den simulerade åldringen är anpassad efter användningsfasen av de material som används i denna studie. Skillnaden i resultat för vattenavvisningsförmåga, färghärdighet samt den mängd fibrer som lossnar under tvätt, jämförs före och efter den simulerade åldringen. Studien resulterade i att den mer hållbara metoden för infärgning av textil inte bara är teoretiskt bättre utan också genomgående presterade bättre i de tester som utförts på tygerna. Detta med undantag för resultatet i fibersläppsmetoden som efter genomförandet inte kunde jämföras enligt standarden då metoden inte kunde utföras helt korrekt. Problemet visade sig tillsynes vara värdefullt för studien då det resulterade i att det inte bara var fibrer som lossnade vid tvätt utan också beläggning, vilket ansågs vara ännu sämre. Metoden för den genomförda studien har varit användbar för att kunna dra slutsatsen att det spinnfärgade tyget fortsatt är ett mycket bättre val än det styckfärgade. Detta konstaterades efter en statistisk analysmetod av resultaten från de utförda testmetoderna men också genom den visuella indikationen. / Microfiber-pollution from washing is a recurring topic and problem because of the small fragments coming out into the water. The amount of microplastics is hard to see and measure with visual analysis, but by using the new standard method to determine the microfibres when collecting the loss of material it opens facilities to see what and how the quantity is affected. To make a more sustainable business in the textile industry, more studies about how the differences in the manufacturing processes affect the textiles have to be done. By using different test methods for a simulation of aging textiles with two different methods of coloring, the phase of use can be studied and in best case support sustainable choices in the textile value chain. The simulated aging is customized for the phase of use for the material used in this study. The results that will be analyzed are for the water repellency, color fastness and the loss of material, before and after the simulated aging. The study concluded that the more sustainable method for coloring the material is a better choice both theoretical and practical. This was found out from all the tests performed on the materials. Except for the results in the microfibre test that after being performed could not be compared according to the standard when the method could not be accomplished completely correct after problems with the filtration. Otherwise, the problem turned out to be useful for the study after being analyzed because it was not only fibers detached from the specimens but also the water repellency coating. The method for the study has been successfully useful to be able draw the conclusion that the solution dyed material is a better choice than the one being piece dyed. It was found out after the statistical analysis of the results from the performed test methods, but also through a visual indication.

M.Tech. / In this research, I examine whether cultural meanings embedded in original sixteenth to eighteenth century Dutch lace and Shweshwe fabric, as examples of colonial forms, are transformed through selected processes. With reference to Dutch lace from Holland, I analyse how the form changes within colonial and post-colonial contexts, but propose that the cultural meanings of the lace remain similar in both contexts. With reference to Shweshwe fabric, I argue that the form stays the same within both colonial and post-colonial contexts, but that its cultural meaning changes as a result of how patterns printed on it are named and identified in a post-colonial context. In this research, I use the term ‘cultural meaning’ to refer to certain signifiers of culture. I propose that factors such as value, class, aspiration, desire and consumption are embedded in or make cultural meaning. My central argument proposes that crocheted doilies, and plastic tablecloths and placemats might be seen as post-colonial versions of Dutch lace. These post-colonial versions of Dutch lace are adopted and adapted by female homemakers in Naledi Ext. 2 to suit certain decorative tastes, values, aspirations and act as markers of class. This adoption and adaptation of the original colonial form, shifts the cultural meanings imbued within it, but not necessarily the associated consumptive meanings. Whilst the primary focus of the theoretical research is Dutch lace and its proposed post-colonial counterparts, I also examine examples of original Shweshwe fabric and how meanings of motifs found on this fabric have been transformed by the modern Mosotho to reflect notions of value and aspiration, whilst the actual motifs appear to be unchanged. In my practical work, I use Dutch lace, crocheted doilies, and plastic tablecloths and placemats, as well as Shweshwe fabric as visual references in the production of large to small scale paintings. In these, I explore how, through painterly alteration and transformation, shifts can occur in the meanings of patterns derived from these culturally-loaded sources.

According to Domowitz (1992), the Agni women of Cote d'Ivoire assign proverbs and aphorisms as names to wax-dyed cloth. Women then use the imagery and associated proverbs behind cloth names to send non-verbal messages they would otherwise be unable to express publicly. The purpose of this study is twofold: first, to investigate wax-dyed cloth names including their underlying meanings and uses given by women in Cote d'Ivoire and Togo; and second, to investigate how these names are acquired in French by women who have no formal education. Qualitative results revealed that women in these two countries are very motivated to learn cloth names. New undocumented names and their underlying meanings were also found. Some of these meanings were found to be educational; others are used to maintain status or to clarify power relationships. At the same time, quantitative results indicated that knowledge and use of cloth names in both communities studied is in decline.

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