The textile industry is a big environmental polluter, with one of the biggest concerns being water pollution and usage. This necessitates resource efficient methods for wet textile processes. To reduce the resources used during wet textile processing, a novel technology was researched in this thesis to dye and hydrophobic finish wool in a one-step process. Two different wool fabrics were exhaust dyed and pad finished as a conventional method to compare to dyeing and finishing in a two-step and one-step process with a hydraulic spray atomising system. In all three processes, acid and reactive dyes were used for dyeing and hyperbranched polymers, i.e. dendrimers, were used for hydrophobic finishing. To test the colour and hydrophobicity fastness, washing and abrasion tests were done on the samples of all three processes. It was found that there is a big colour difference between the conventional and hydraulic spray method, where the colour is less strong in the hydraulic spray method. This has to do with the difference in the dye fixation step, where in the conventional method, the dye fixation happens in an aqueous medium, and in the hydraulic spray this happens in a nonaqueous medium. The hydrophobicity is however significantly better in the samples finished in the hydraulic spray, as this is rather a surface treatment. The results in colour and contact angle between the two-step and one-step process did not significantly change, so it can be concluded that it is possible to combine dyeing and finishing in the hydraulic spray method. The colour and hydrophobic fastness to abrasion and washing is significantly worse for the samples of the hydraulic spray method compared to the conventional method. The hydraulic spray method can still be optimised to overcome problems with colour and fastness, however this is future work. The hydraulic spray method uses significantly less water, chemicals and energy in a two-step process, and even more in a one-step process. Therefore, it has the potential to reduce the use of water, chemicals and energy in wet textile processing, for all types of fibres, and thus strongly contribute to a more environmental conscious wet textile process.

Call number: LD2668 .T4 1961 B36

Call number: LD2668 .T4 1978 S85 / Master of Science

Call number: LD2668 .T4 1955 L67 / Master of Science

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The work of this MA thesis develops a new approach to hand weaving in which the design process is led by the technique of resistant dyeing. The process is inspired by the visual properties of traditional ikats. It follows the technical ikat procedure of primary resistant dyeing and subsequently weaving. Whithin the research a new way of weaving is explored in which the dyed thread dictates the weaving process and therefore influences the weaving motif. In addition different design variables such as material, binding pattern and finishing are used to push forward the developed concept. The aim of this work is to explore new aesthetic expressions between regular and irregular motifs through the application of design thinking. The result presents an innovative approach in the ikat technique in order to create random distributed patterns and how they can be already influenced in the stage of yarn preparation.

Both the challenges and rewards of pattern dyeing motivated an examination of resist materials, the subject of this study. The first part of the problem was to investigate new materials and those not previously used for dye resists. The second part was to test some of the traditional resisting agents in non-traditional ways. The selected materials were evaluated for their effectiveness as dye resists and for their usefulness to the artist-craftsman. They were also compared to traditional techniques to determine any advantages they may or may not have over previous resist materials.

by Siu-tai Tsim. / Thesis (M.Phil.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1993. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 382-403). / Statement --- p.4 / Acknowledgements --- p.5 / Abstract --- p.6 / Abbreviation --- p.8 / Chapter Chapter 1. --- General introduction --- p.10 / Chapter PART I. --- Biodegradation of Indigo carmine / Chapter Chapter 2. --- Introduction to indigo/indigo carmine --- p.29 / Chapter Chapter 3. --- Purification and characterization of crude indigo carmine degrading enzyme --- p.59 / Chapter Chapter 4. --- Characterization of indigo carmine degradation products --- p.181 / Chapter Chapter 5. --- Toxicity of indigo carmine and its degradation products --- p.219 / Chapter Chapter 6. --- A new method to determine the concentration of indigo dye --- p.301 / Chapter PART II. --- Biosorption of Sulfur black dye / Chapter Chapter 7. --- "An efficient method for removal of sulfur black dye, a contaminant in sodium thiosulfate, a side product of sulfur black production" --- p.319 / References --- p.382