Content: Sustainability is a key factor which control future leather manufacture. Developing several new technologies is one of the primary agenda for sustainability. However, developing countries are facing several challenges which not only limited to best practice technologies but also finding self sustainability in maximizing the available resources. In the present study, an attempt has been made to explore the potential resource of aluminium from kaolin of Pugu hills, Tanzania for combination tanning. Though, extraction of aluminium from several resources are available, there is limited literature pertaining to Tanzania resources. Moreover, the extracted aluminium is basified and studied for its tanning efficiency. Diffraction and vibrational spectroscopic studies were carried out to assess the confirmation of extracted aluminium. Combination tanning has been carried out with vegetable tannins and dialdehyde starch tanning chemicals, which are from natural resources. Leathers tanned with aluminum and wattle resulted with a shrinkage temperature of 118ºC as compared to Al-Dialdehyde starch leathers showed around 90-100ºC. Physical strength characteristics such as tensile, tear and grain crack strength met the standard norms. Grain surface of leathers are found to be smooth which has been confirmed through microscopic studies. The study provides a new insight on accomplishing self sustainability through available resources and manufacture of eco-friendly system. Take-Away: 1. Tanzania is endowed with massive kaolin rich in aluminium, which is potential for application in leather industry for sustainable development of leather industry 2. The combination tanning system using aluminium from Tanzania kaolin with wattle tannins or Dialdehyde starch imparts leather with both physical and organoleptic properties that meet the stipulated norms 3. This new tanning system provides new insight on ecofriendly tanning system for the sustainability of leather industry.

Aus der Geschichte sind Krananlagen unter der Verwendung von Holzwerkstoffen bekannt. Zu deren Einsatzzeit waren die verwendeten Werkstoffe mit den Holzwerkstoffen der heutigen Zeit in den Dimensionen und Eigenschaften nicht zu vergleichen. Das Zeitalter von Stahl und Aluminium hat den natürlichen Polymerwerkstoff in dem Gebiet größtenteils verdrängt. Durch Technologie- und Eigenschaftsverbesserungen sowie durch die positive Wirkung auf die Umwelt rücken die Holzwerkstoffe in den Fokus. Grundlegende Fragen zur technischen und wirtschaftlichen Vorteilhaftigkeit wurden untersucht. Ebenso wurde betrachtet, welche Kranarten prinzipiell realisiert werden können und welche Auslegungen bezügllich der Normen notwendig sind. Das Ziel und der Vorteil von dem Einsatz von Holzwerkstoffen sind u.a. die Möglichkeit zur Verringerung von bewegten Massen und die Verringerung der Belastung auf Gebäude oder Tragwerke.:1 Einleitung 2 Grundlagen 2.1 Brückenkrane 2.2 Portalkran 2.3 Kabelkran 2.4 Drehkran 3 Zielsetzung 4 Stand der Technik 5 Schnittstelle Normung 6 Substitutionspotenzial 6.1 Allgemein 6.2 Erkenntnisse zu den Kranarten 6.3 Zusammenhang: Eigengewicht - Traglast - Aspektverhältnis bei Brückenträgern 6.4 Wettbewerbsfaktor Preis 7 Zusammenfassung 8 Förderhinweis

Content: A Conventional technique of bovine hide preservation requires approximately 40-50% sodium chloride or table salt on raw hide weight or 95% saturated brine in case of wet salting. This salt resides in wastewater after the soaking process and generates a huge environmental pollution in the form of total dissolved solids (TDS) and chloride (Cl-) during leather processing. The current research has developed an antiseptic based hide curing formulation using 45% saturated brine solution which reduces 50% salt usage in compare to the traditional method. For hide preservation, it is essential to arrest microbial attack on hide as the main constituent of raw hide is protein which is very susceptible for bacterial degradation. The newly developed formulations have been found more effective in limiting microbial growth on cured hide than the conventional method preserving the bovine hide for more than 30 days. In-process analysis of cured hides during storage period reveals the compatibility of the alternative curing process. Post-leather analysis e.g. grain pattern, scanning electron microscopic images, mechanical properties and organoleptic evaluation reveal that the crust leather produced from alternatively cured hides are comparable to the control obtained from traditionally preserved hide. The efficacy of the alternative system is also assessed by monitoring the environmental impacts caused by the leather processing effluents on the basis of TDS and chloride content, total solids (TS), total aerobic bacterial counts in soaking liquor, Bio-Chemical oxygen demand (BOD) and Chemical oxygen demand (COD). The environmental advantages of the alternative hide curing method are determined particularly by 50% reduction of TDS and chloride content. Therefore, this new development will not only preserve hide through better protection from microorganisms but also offer improved conservation of the environment. Take-Away: Environmentally friendly technique of animal hide preservation Hide preservation through better protection from microbial degradatoin than the traditional technique

Content: The aim of this desk study is to compare consumption of thermal energy in temperate vs. (sub)tropical climate for two representative processes: float heating (bating and dyeing) and chamber drying, with the view of contributing towards overall assessment of thermal energy consumption for tanneries operating under rather different conditions. The energy consumption is calculated for 1 t of wet salted hides and assuming that 1000 kg of wet salted weight corresponds to 1100 kg of pelt weight containing 838 kg of water and 262 kg of collagen subsequently segregated into grain leather and usable splits. Float rates (200% on pelt/shaved weight), average inlet water temperatures (15 oC vs. 25 oC), process float temperatures for bating (35 oC) and dyeing (60 o C) have been defined. Similarly, for computation of thermal energy for chamber drying, identical initial (45 %) and target leather humidity (20 %) are set and average respective fresh air temperature (15 oC vs. 30 oC) and fresh air relative humidity (50% vs. 70%) estimated and operating conditions such as exhaust air temperature and relative humidity defined. Based on such parameters and assumptions, specific ratios for thermal energy consumption for float heating (bating & dyeing) and for chamber drying have been calculated and comparisons made; the results might not quite coincide with common perceptions. The energy needs computed are net amounts, i.e. regardless of the source and without taking into account any losses and disregarding energy consumption for ambient heating and/or cooling. Thus, the total energy needs are much higher. The ratios computed for grain leather are valid for split leather as well. However, if the solar energy is used to support water heating, the conditions in the tropic zone are substantially more favourable, due to higher insolation and higher efficiency factor (i.e. difference of the final vs. inlet water temperature). Take-Away: Based on such parameters and assumptions, specific ratios for thermal energy consumption for float heating (bating & dyeing) and for chamber drying have been calculated and comparisons made; the results might not quite coincide with common perceptions. However, if the solar energy is used to support water heating, the conditions in the tropic zone are substantially more favourable, due to higher insolation and higher efficiency factor (i.e. difference of the final vs. inlet water temperature).

Content: The restriction of certain dangerous substances according to REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation of Chemicals as well as the Restricted Substances Lists (RSL) requirements promoted by various renowned brands obliges tanneries to everyday more numerous analysis with undesired conflictual situations on false positive tests results. This situation is worsened by the voluntary reduction of requested detection limits far below the levels recommended by the accepted ISO methods. On this context, ISO 17070:2015 was extended in its current version from the determination of pentachlorophenol to tetrachlorophenol, trichlorophenol, dichlorophenol and monochlorophenol isomers. Some brands also included under this technique the ortho phenyl phenol (OPP) analysis, requesting a quantification limit below 1 mg/kg for all analytes. The present paper proposes a new HPLC-DAD-MS direct method for the verification of chlorophenols positive cases, and its extension to leather chemicals analysis, as well as the discrimination among false positive cases and real positive ones. The paper also illustrates case studies reporting differences in the quantification of the said analytes and the chlorophenol scission in different analytical conditions. Take-Away: False positives verification of the presence of chlorophenols. Quicker method respect to the current ISO 17070:2015 standard. Method reliable on Leather chemicls chlorophenos research. Generation of chlorophenols from certain AOX substances.

Content: Preservation (or) curing is an important unit process for transportation and storage of raw hides/skins without any deterioration. Popular preservation process is mostly achieved by reducing the moisture content of hides/skins using common salt (NaCl). Usage of salt in preservation process leads to generation of large amount of contaminated salt, total dissolved solids (TDS) and consume huge amount of water for subsequent rehydration step. On the other hand, lime-sodium sulphide based reductive process is commonly employed for the removal of hair from hides/skins. This process leads to generation of lime sludge and possible evolution of toxic hydrogen sulphide gas thereby making the working atmosphere more unpleasant. Several alternative techniques for preservation as well as unhairing process have been developed individually to replace salt and sulfide, respectively. However, a single compound performing dual functions such as preservation and unhairing action in neutral pH conditions has not explored so far. In the present work, a novel formulation has been developed, which possess the both preservation and unhairing potential, and applied on the hides/skins for storage up to 6 months at ambient conditions without dehydration. Low level of sulphide was used during alkaline fiber opening for complete removal of hair. The strength and organoleptic properties are on par with salted skins/hides. The developed process completely eliminates the use of salt and 75% sulphide and also reduces the time and water required for soaking process. The developed system reduces 85% of pollution load discharged from soaking and unhairing processes. Take-Away: One pot system for salt free preservation and low sulfide dehairing for sustainable leather manufacture.

Content: The use of vegetable tanning agents alone for pre-tanning as an alternative to synthetic or chromiumcontaining tanning agents is one way of improving sustainability and ecology in leather production. In recent years, a new group of secondary plant compounds, the iridoids or secoiridoids, has been discovered for use as tanning agents. Due to their molecular structure, these substances probably have a reaction mechanism similar to glutaraldehyde, which means that known disadvantages of conventional vegetable tanning such as long process times or weak interactions can be avoided. Currently, a tanning agent from olive leaves with cross-linking active substances deriving from the secoiridoid Oleuropein is commercially available. In order to extend the product range of alternative vegetable tanning agents with covalent cross-linking mechanism by native raw material, we screened a number of further plants for such crosslinking active substances in a preceding project. Extracts from privet leaves showed a particularly high crosslinking activity. Privet belongs to the Oleacea family and is common in Asia with several species. In Europe, the species Ligustrum vulgare can be found everywhere, especially as a hedge plant. In addition to Oleuropein, the privet extracts contain a high proportion of the secoiridoid Ligustraloside A. The secoiridoids are deglycosylated during extraction and thus converted into an activated state. The analytical determination of the active secoiridoid degradation products is not yet possible, so that the quantitative determination of the tannin content is made more difficult. Here, we aimed to develop a technology for the production of leather that is exclusively pre- tanned with privet tanning agents. The development includes the production, characterization and optimization of the plant extracts, the development of the pre-tanning technology and the adaptation of the wet end for the corresponding application areas. The leathers which have been manufactured show high shrinkage temperature and good mechanical properties. They show an inherent coloring, but seem to be suitable for use in automotive interiors, as a comparison of the test results with the technical delivery conditions of automobile manufacturers shows. Take-Away: With a new tanning agent from a native widespread plant, leather of good quality can be produced.

Content: In order to develop a sustainable and low-cost route for tanning, the stabilization of the collagen fibers of the hides with silica compounds has been investigated for many years. In this context, silica nanoparticles have been studied for application in tanning due to their small size and ability to combine with polymeric substrates. This work investigates the potentialities and limitations of the use of alkoxysilanes in leather tanning, introducing silica nanoparticles in the hides, aim for process and product innovation in leather industry. The synthesis of silica nanoparticles was carried out by a typical sol-gel Stöber process. From the silica precursor tetraethoxysilane (TEOS), ammonium hydroxide as catalyst, ethanol and water, the formation of nanoparticles dispersion takes place. Vegetable tanning process was explored by introducing the silica nanoparticles in this stage starting from pickled cattle hide. Shrinkage temperature, tensile strength, softness and color fastness to light were evaluated in the leather samples. The results achieved show that the tanning experiment with only silica, without other tanning agent, did not reach the minimum shrinkage temperature required to be labeled as tanned leather. Conversely, in the presence of vegetable tannin, the shrinkage temperature reached 80°C. The physical-mechanical properties indicated that the enhanced on the tensile strength of vegetable leathers with nanosilica was about 50% and their softness was not affected by the introduction of silica. A lighter colored leather was generated with silica but less stable to light. The tanning chemistry involving silica nanoparticles and collagen is complex, therefore, more studies are needed to explore the influence of silanes on hide stabilization. Take-Away: The physical-mechanical properties indicated an increase on the tensile strength of vegetable leather. Silica did not affected the softness of the leather. A lighter colored leather was generated with the addition of the silica nanoparticles in vegetable tanning.

Content: The triazine-based coupling reagent 4-(4,6-dimethoxy-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl)-4-methylmorpholinium chloride (DMTMM) is a promptly water-soluble white solid commonly used in chemical synthesis, which is proven to act as effective tanning agent. This research work provides an experimental evidence that the tanning ability of DMTMM is associated to an increase of the cross-linking density in the collagen molecule. As a result of the coupling reaction, DMTMM is converted into water-soluble by-products that can be removed by washing. Take-Away: chrome free tanning, reaction mechanism

Content: Many areas of leather production rely heavily on the manipulation of acidic and basic residues within the primary collagen structure to vary the overall charge of the substrate. For example, it is the basis which enables swelling during liming, deswelling during deliming, penetration of chromium after addition of chrome tanning salts and the fixing of chrome to carboxylate residues during basification. Manipulation of the charge on collagen is readily achieved through the addition of acids or bases into the float which may react with these residues to alter the charge. Often, the increase in anionic charge and reduction in cationic charge with increasing pH are shown to happen concurrently and linearly with the iso-electric point (IEP) given as the point at which the positive and negative charges present on the collagen are equal. However, the pH at which carboxylate/acid groups undergo protonation/deprotonation is significantly lower than that at which an amine/ammonium is protonated/deprotonated, meaning the linear model described above is not a true representation of charge of collagen at varying pH. Here we model the charge of a collagen substrate based off the amino acid profile of bovine skin, considering their relative levels within the collagen and concentrations within a water/collagen matrix, representative for collagen saturated with water. Models are presented for raw and limed bovine hides. This broader approach enables greater understanding of the influence of charge on the collagen substrate compared to IEP on its own, revealing contrasting charge profiles in acidic and alkaline regions of raw collagen, providing greater understanding of their differing behaviour during alkali swelling.