In Alabama, the term "coastal shoreline" applies to the Gulf shoreline and the shorelines of estuaries, bays, and sounds connected to the Gulf of Mexico and subject to its tides. However, Alabama shoreline studies have yet to include Little Lagoon, which has been connected to the Gulf of Mexico for most of the last 200 years, according to historical charts. This study used historical nautical charts, aerial photographs, and LIDAR derived shorelines from 1917 to 2004 to analyze shoreline change on Little Lagoon and its adjacent Gulf shoreline. The high water line was used as the common reference feature, and all shorelines were georeferenced, projected, and digitized in a Geographic In-formation System. Between 1917 and 2001, the Gulf shoreline eroded an average of 40 m over 12.7 km, with some transects eroding almost 120 m while others accreted almost 60 m. The greatest changes to the Gulf shoreline were found near natural inlets, downdrift of jetties, and coincident with nourishment projects. Between 1955 and 1997, Little Lagoon shrank 0.5%, or 51.4 km², from 10,285.9 km² to 10,234.5 km². The greatest changes to Little Lagoon were found on its southern shoreline and near inlets, human development, and hurricane overwash fans. A correlation analysis conducted on the Gulf shoreline and Little Lagoon' s southern shoreline indicated that although weak overall correlation values exist when the entire 12.7 km study area is compared, strong correlation values are obtained in some areas when compared over one kilometer sections. The strongest correlations were found in the same locations as the greatest changes. / Master of Science

No description available.

A wind-wave model for Lake Pontchartrain has been developed. This model uses the probability data obtained from the frequency analysis of wind information from the four weather monitoring stations in Lake Pontchartrain. For any given season and any given location, this model generates statistical results of wave heights, wave periods and long-shore sediment transport in 10 degree directional bins along the shoreline of the Lake. This model can be used as an effective tool for planning, construction and maintenance of beaches along the shores of Lake Pontchartrain.

Longshore sediment transport rate was measured during energetic sea breeze activity, on intermediate-to-reflective sandy beaches in Southwestern Australia. Estimates of suspended load were obtained using backscatter sensors, current meters and streamer traps. Total load was determined using fluorescent tracer sand and an impoundment study. The measurementsw ere cross-compareda nd usedt o evaluates everalw idely-used longshore transport equations. The streamer trap measurement revealed an exponential distribution of the suspended sediment flux with vertical mixing decreasing in the onshore direction. A continuous time series of the longshore suspended sediment flux across the surf zone was obtained by combining the streamer trap measurements with data collected using surf zone instruments. Comparison of the suspended longshore flux with the total longshore flux derived from the dispersal of the sand tracer indicated that the relative contribution of the suspendedlo ad to the total load was at least 59 %. The movement of sandt racer on four different beaches demonstrated that nearshore sediments were transported obliquely across the surf zone, challenging our conventional view of dividing nearshore sediment transport into cross-shore and longshore components. Furthermore, tracer was found to move from the outer surf zone to the swash zone and vice versa, indicating a cross-shore sediment exchange. The contribution of the swash zone to the total longshore flux was estimated around 30-40 %. Despite large differences in the temporal and spatial scales of the measurement techniques, the littoral drift rates are comparable, suggesting a northward transport rate of 138,000-200,000 m3 year-1. Longshore sediment transport during sea breezes is mainly the result of a high longshore energy flux exerted by wind waves. This is accurately predicted by the equations of Inman and Bagnold (1963) and CERC (1984). The bimodal wave field, characteristic of Southwestern Australia, renders the Kamphuis (1991b) formula unsuitable in this instance.

As ondas geradas por tempestades causam as alterações mais significativas na costa arenosa. Este trabalho avaliou a influência da variabilidade interanual do clima de ondas nos processos costeiros do litoral Sudeste e Sul do Brasil. O clima de ondas foi determinado a partir de resultados entre 1997 e 2010 do modelo numérico NOAA WAVEWATCH III (NWW3) com seis pontos de água profunda. O modelo numérico MIKE 21 SW foi utilizado para verificar o efeito destas ondas na Enseada de Massaguaçu (SP) e no trecho Sul de Imbituba (SC). Foram simuladas as direções de ondas mais frequentes e foi calculado o transporte longitudinal de sedimentos gerado por elas. As ondas do quadrante Sul foram mais energéticas e não foi identificado um padrão na variação interanual do clima de ondas. Em São Paulo, as direções de onda mais frequentes (Sul e Sul-Sudoeste) não geraram quantidade efetiva de transporte de sedimentos, e foram as ondas de Leste-Sudeste a Sudeste-Sul que geraram a maior quantidade de transporte longitudinal de sedimentos. Em Santa Catarina foram as ondas de Leste a Sul que geraram maior transporte longitudinal de sedimentos. / The coastal dynamics is mainly controlled by waves, being the energetic storm waves the most influential. This study aims to assess the wave climate influence on coastal processes in the South and Southeastern coast of Brazil. The wave climate was defined through NOAA WAVEWATCH III (NWW3) numerical model results for six offshore points, from 1997 to 2010. In order to propagate the waves onshore the Spectral Wave FM from MIKE 21 numerical model has been applied on Massaguaçu bay (SP) and Imbituba (SC). Most frequent storm waves have been simulated for each year and sector and sediment longshore transport along each sector was calculated. Waves from the South are the most energetic. There is no clear interanual pattern in the time-series. For SP, the most frequent directions (South and South-Southwest) do not generate considerable longshore sediment transport, with East-Southeast to Southeast-South waves generating most sediment transport, which was northwards for all beaches. In SC the sediment transport was northwards in Vila and Vila Nova beaches and southwards on Itapirubá beach, with waves from Eastern and Southern quadrants generating more longshore sediment transport.

As ondas geradas por tempestades causam as alterações mais significativas na costa arenosa. Este trabalho avaliou a influência da variabilidade interanual do clima de ondas nos processos costeiros do litoral Sudeste e Sul do Brasil. O clima de ondas foi determinado a partir de resultados entre 1997 e 2010 do modelo numérico NOAA WAVEWATCH III (NWW3) com seis pontos de água profunda. O modelo numérico MIKE 21 SW foi utilizado para verificar o efeito destas ondas na Enseada de Massaguaçu (SP) e no trecho Sul de Imbituba (SC). Foram simuladas as direções de ondas mais frequentes e foi calculado o transporte longitudinal de sedimentos gerado por elas. As ondas do quadrante Sul foram mais energéticas e não foi identificado um padrão na variação interanual do clima de ondas. Em São Paulo, as direções de onda mais frequentes (Sul e Sul-Sudoeste) não geraram quantidade efetiva de transporte de sedimentos, e foram as ondas de Leste-Sudeste a Sudeste-Sul que geraram a maior quantidade de transporte longitudinal de sedimentos. Em Santa Catarina foram as ondas de Leste a Sul que geraram maior transporte longitudinal de sedimentos. / The coastal dynamics is mainly controlled by waves, being the energetic storm waves the most influential. This study aims to assess the wave climate influence on coastal processes in the South and Southeastern coast of Brazil. The wave climate was defined through NOAA WAVEWATCH III (NWW3) numerical model results for six offshore points, from 1997 to 2010. In order to propagate the waves onshore the Spectral Wave FM from MIKE 21 numerical model has been applied on Massaguaçu bay (SP) and Imbituba (SC). Most frequent storm waves have been simulated for each year and sector and sediment longshore transport along each sector was calculated. Waves from the South are the most energetic. There is no clear interanual pattern in the time-series. For SP, the most frequent directions (South and South-Southwest) do not generate considerable longshore sediment transport, with East-Southeast to Southeast-South waves generating most sediment transport, which was northwards for all beaches. In SC the sediment transport was northwards in Vila and Vila Nova beaches and southwards on Itapirubá beach, with waves from Eastern and Southern quadrants generating more longshore sediment transport.

Thesis (MScEng)--Stellenbosch University, 2013. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: The various consequences of climate change pose a significant threat to developments near the coast. These threats include saltwater intrusion, coastal erosion and flooding. In the coastal context, the climate change effect often raising the most concern is that of sea-level rise. Much work has therefore been done on the linear setback caused by a rise in sea-level. In order to get the full picture of possible changes caused by sea-level rise, the secondary effects of a rising sea-level also need to be considered. Sea-level rise could cause changes to the nearshore wave climate and could have impacts such as coastal erosion and changes to the coastline shape. The primary objective of this study was therefore to investigate the effects of sea-level rise on the nearshore wave climate and, consequently, the coastline stability. Other consequences of climate change considered in this study include increasing average wave heights and a rotation of offshore wave directions. The many headland-bay beaches on the South African coastline are generally in a state of dynamic equilibrium and find their planforms based on the local wave climate. Changes to the wave climate may therefore disrupt the equilibrium shapes of these bays. This study was therefore also aimed at investigating the effects of the changes to the wave climate on the stability of headland-bay beaches. The three consequences of climate change expected to affect the nearshore wave climate were identified as (1) sea-level rise; (2) an increased wave height; and (3) changing offshore wave angles. Although changes to storm frequency and intensity are also possible, the impacts of these changes were not studied. In order to assess the impacts of the three considered changes on a typical headland-bay beach, two numerical models were set up for Mossel Bay – a headland-bay beach on the southern coast of South Africa. The modelling approach included a wave transformation model to calculate nearshore wave climates from offshore data and a coastline model to assess the stability of the bay under the changed nearshore wave climates. The model results indicated that the rising sea-level alone would cause changes in the nearshore wave direction. These changes were shown to alter the longshore sediment transport regime such that rotations are expected in the south-western corner and eastern end of Mossel Bay. These rotations do not include the cross-shore effects of inundation and erosion, as suggested by models such as the Bruun Model. The results for an increased offshore wave height were inconclusive. The southerly rotation in offshore wave angles was shown to affect the nearshore wave angles. These changes affected the longshore transport regime such that the outward sediment transports were reduced. A minor accretion resulted in the centre of the bay for a 1° southerly rotation in offshore wave angles. For a 2° rotation, the extent of accretion increased and shifted towards the eastern end of the bay, primarily due to the dominance of south-westerly waves in the local wave climate. A valuable observation was made regarding the current stability of Mossel Bay. Inter-tidal reefs are present along three sections of the bay. These reefs protect the coastline such that the current bay shape contains sharp bends between the reefs. Under a rising sea-level, however, the effect of the reefs will become less pronounced. If a water level should be reached where these reefs become less significant, the planform of the bay is expected to smooth out through a significant redistribution of sediment. This smoothing effect was shown to cause erosion of the coastline in the order of 80m near the town of Klein Brak River. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Die verskeie gevolge van klimaatsverandering bied ‘n merkwaardige bedreiging vir ontwikkelings naby die kus. Hierdie bedreigings sluit die versouting van varswaterbronne, kuserosie en oorstromings in. Vir kusgebiede is seevlakstyging gereeld die effek van klimaatsverandering wat die meeste kommer wek. Dus is heelwat navorsing rakende die direkte erosie as gevolg van seevlakstyging reeds gedoen. Om die volle beeld van die gevolge van ‘n stygende seevlak te verkry, is dit egter nodig om ook die sekondêre effekte hiervan in ag te neem. Seevlakstyging kan veranderinge in die golfklimaat naby die kus veroorsaak, en kan impakte soos kuserosie en veranderende baaivorms tot gevolg hê. Die primêre doel van hierdie studie is dus om die effek van seevlakstyging op die golfklimaat by die kus en gevolglik die stabiliteit van die kuslyn, te ondersoek. Benewens die styging van die seevlak word die effekte van groter gemiddelde golfhoogtes en die rotasie van diepsee golfrigtings ook in hierdie studie ondersoek. Die vele landpunt-baaie (headlandbay beaches) op die Suid-Afrikaanse kus is meestal in ‘n dinamiese ekwilibriumtoestand, waarvan die vorm deur die lokale golfklimaat bepaal word. Veranderinge aan dié golfklimaat mag dus die ekwilibrium vorms van sulke baaie versteur. Hierdie studie het dus ook die stabilititeit van landpuntbaaie onder ‘n veranderende golfklimaat ondersoek. Die drie gevolge van klimaatsverandering wat verwag word om die golfklimaat naby die kus te beïnvloed is geïdentifiseer as (1) seevlakstyging; (2) vergrote golfhoogtes; en (3) veranderende diepsee golfhoeke. Veranderinge aan die frekwensie en intensiteit van storms is ook moontlike gevolge van klimaatsverandering, maar die impakte hiervan is nie in die studie ondersoek nie. Twee numeriese modelle is toegepas om die impak van die drie bogenoemde gevolge op Mosselbaai – ‘n tipiese landpunt-baai aan die suidkus van Suid-Afrika – te ondersoek. ‘n Golfmodel is ingespan om die golfklimaat naby die kus te bepaal waarna ‘n kuslynmodel gebruik is om die stabiliteit van die baai onder die veranderde golfklimaat te ondersoek. Die resultate van die studie dui daarop dat die golfhoeke naby die kus beïnvloed word deur seevlakstyging. Daar is aangetoon dat dié veranderinge die langsstroomvervoer sodanig sal verander dat kuslynrotasies in die suid-westelike hoek asook die oostelike rand van Mosselbaai verwag word. Hierdie rotasies sluit nie die lineêre landwaartse verplasing van die kuslyn as gevolg van erosie en oorstroming in nie. Die effek van vergrote golfhoogtes kon nie met akkuraatheid ondersoek word nie. Daar is wel gevind dat die suidwaartse rotasie van diepsee golfhoeke rotasies in die golfklimaat naby die kus veroorsaak. Hierdie rotasies verander die langsstroom sedimentvervoer sodanig dat die uitwaartse sedimentvervoer verminder word en ‘n klein opbou van sediment in die middel van die baai vir ‘n 1° diepsee rotasie verwag word. Vir ‘n 2° suidwaartse rotasie is daar ‘n groter opbou van sediment wat verder ooswaarts veplaas is. Die ooswaartse veplasing is primêr ‘n gevolg van die oorheersing van suid-westelike golftoestande in die golfklimaat. ‘n Waardevolle gevolgtrekking rakende die huidige stabiliteit van Mosselbaai is ook gemaak. Langs drie gedeeltes van die Mosselbaaise kus word riwwe in die gebied tussen hoog- en laagwater aangetref. Hierdie riwwe beskerm die kus sodanig dat skerp kinkels in die vorm van die baai tussen die riwwe gesien kan word. Wanneer die seevlak styg, word die beskermende effek van die riwwe egter minder doeltreffend. Indien ‘n watervlak bereik word waar dié effek genoegsaam verminder is, word daar verwag dat die baai deur ‘n merkwaardige verplasing van sediment die kinkels sal uitstryk. Deur hierdie proses word erosie in die orde van 80m naby die dorp van Klein Brakrivier verwag.

Dans cette étude menée sur la côte méditerranéenne du Maroc, de l’Algérie, et de la Tunisie à une échelle spatiale et temporelle étendue (2200 km de côte et sur 100 ans environ), nous déterminons, par une approche « Source-to-sink », les relations existantes entre l’érosion produite dans les bassins versants et les sédiments transportés en suspension par les oueds, avec la redistribution de ces sédiments le long du rivage. Nous proposons un nouveau modèle empirique de transport sédimentaire en suspension le long des bassins versants de notre site d’étude. Nous déterminons alors l’impact des barrages sur les sédiments, puis nous estimons quantitativement quels sont les apports sédimentaires s’effectuant jusqu’à la mer. Nous analysons les caractéristiques morphologiques du littoral selon sa géométrie et les indices morphodynamiques issus de la littérature. Après avoir cartographié la position du trait de côte à différentes périodes, la cinématique du rivage est déterminée, ainsi que la dérive littorale. Ces analyses se basent sur le concept de cellule littorale. Nous terminons par une synthèse globale avant de tirer les conclusions principales sur les relations entre les bassins versants et les cellules littorales, telles que (1) le rôle de précurseur et de tampon sédimentaire joué par les deltas pour limiter l’érosion des plages en secteur aval de la cellule littorale, (2) les liens entre les apports sédimentaires des oueds avant-barrage avec le type de barre littorale, et (3) les liens entre les apports sédimentaires des oueds avant-barrage, minorés du volume de sédiment déplacé par la dérive littorale, avec la taille des deltas et le nombre de barres littorales. / In this study conducted on the Mediterranean coast of Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia at an extended spatial and temporal scale (2200 km of coastline and about 100 years), we determine, using a "source-to- sink ", the existing relationships between erosion produced in watersheds and sediment transported in suspension by wadis, with the redistribution of these sediments along the shoreline. We propose a new empirical model of suspended sediment transport along the watersheds of our study site. We then determine the impact of dams on the sediments, and then quantitatively estimate the sedimentary contributions to the sea. We analyze the morphological characteristics of the littoral according to its geometry and the morphodynamic indices from the literature . After mapping the position of the coastline at different periods, the kinematics of the shoreline is determined, as well as the shoreline drift. These analyzes are based on the concept of a littoral cell. We conclude with a general synthesis before drawing the main conclusions on the relations between watersheds and coastal cells, such as (1) the role of precursor and sediment buffer played by deltas to limit the erosion of beaches in the sector (3) the links between sediment inputs from pre-barrage wadis, minus the volume of sediment moved by the coastal drift, with the size of the deltas and the number of coastal bars.

Les littoraux sableux dominés par l'action des vagues sont des zones très dynamiques où l'aléa érosion menace les activités humaines et la sécurité des personnes. Comprendre et prévoir les évolutions du trait de côte est crucial pour informer et guider les gestionnaires du littoral. Actuellement, aucun modèle numérique ne permet de reproduire les évolutions du trait de côte sur l'ensemble des échelles spatio-temporelles et des configurations de côte requises du fait de limitations numériques et physiques. Cette thèse se concentre sur le développement de nouveaux outils de modélisation à complexité réduite pour simuler les évolutions du trait de côte le long des littoraux sableux dominés par l'action des vagues sur des échelles de temps allant de l'heure à plusieurs décennies avec des temps de calcul réduits. D'abord, un modèle statistique de trait de côte s'appuyant uniquement sur les occurrences saisonnières de régimes de temps est développé. Ce modèle permet de simuler la variabilité du trait de côte à l'échelle pluriannuelle, sans avoir besoin de connaitre les conditions de vagues ou de modéliser le transport sédimentaire. Puis, un nouveau modèle numérique de trait de côte basé sur les vagues (LX-Shore) est développé en intégrant entre autres les forces de certains modèles existants. Il inclut les processus cross-shore et longshore, et couple la dynamique du trait de côte à la propagation des vagues via le modèle spectral de vagues SWAN. Ce modèle permet de simuler l'évolution de formes complexes comme par exemple les flèches sableuses. Ces outils ouvrent aussi la voie vers une meilleure évaluation des évolutions futures du trait de côte, ainsi que de la contribution respective des processus impliqués. / Wave-dominated sandy coasts are highly dynamic and populated systems increasingly threatened by erosion hazard. Understanding and predicting shoreline change is critical to inform and guide stakeholders. However, there is currently no numerical model able to reproduce and predict shoreline evolution over the full range of temporal scales and coastal geometries owing to numerical and physical limitations. This thesis focuses on the development of new reduced-complexity models to simulate shoreline change along wave-dominated sandy coasts on the timescales from hours to decades with low computation time. First, a statistical shoreline change model based on the seasonal occurrences of some oceanic basin weather regimes is developed. This model allows simulating shoreline variability at the seasonal and interannual scales, without resorting to wave data or sediment transport modeling. Second, a new so-called LX-Shore numerical wave-driven shoreline change model is developed, which takes the best from some existing models and includes additional numerical and physical developments. LX-Shore couples the primary longshore and cross-shore processes and includes the feedback of shoreline and bathymetric evolution on the wave field using a spectral wave model. LX-Shore successfully simulates the dynamics of coastal embayments or the formation of subsequent nonlinear evolution of complex shoreline features such as flying sandspits. It is anticipated that LX-Shore will provide new and quantitative insight into the respective contributions of the processes controlling shoreline change on real coasts for a wide range of wave climates and geological settings.