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  • About
  • The Global ETD Search service is a free service for researchers to find electronic theses and dissertations. This service is provided by the Networked Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations.
    Our metadata is collected from universities around the world. If you manage a university/consortium/country archive and want to be added, details can be found on the NDLTD website.
1

Fictions of consumption : novels of the Long Eighteenth Century, 1749-1817

Aronson, Leslie January 2014 (has links)
This project relates the theme of material consumption in novels of the long eighteenth century to the development of the novel genre. Functioning as more than just a reflection of societal concerns, novels shape perceptions of consumption, which in turn inform our understanding of the novel’s development. These perceptions are informed and complicated by a variety of issues presented in eighteenth-century novels including form, nation and national identity, sexuality, labour, commerce, credit and debt, and, in particular, gender. Chapter one looks at Henry Fielding’s Tom Jones and the use of consumption imagery and metaphors as a way of playing with form and genre adaptation; the novel’s awareness of its own status as consumable commodity relates to the metaphoric and physical consumption within the novel’s plot, establishing a relationship between the problematic generic status of Tom Jones and the theme of physical consumption. Through Tobias Smollett’s The Expedition of Humphry Clinker, chapter two examines eighteenth-century concerns regarding women’s consumption through the largely neglected figure of Tabitha Bramble and her reclamation of the corrupting influence of the foreign through her marriage to Lismahago. More than just a critique of the effects of foreign luxury on British society, I argue that Humphry Clinker makes room for the produce of empire through the union of Tabitha and Lismahago. Chapter three analyses Frances Burney’s novel Camilla in relation to its treatment of the commodifying effects of commerce, particularly shopping; drawing parallels between the experience of shopping in the eighteenth century and the marriage market, specifically as relates to the male gaze, the chapter argues that there is a connection between the novel as commodity, created by Burney in order to create profit, and the commodification of Camilla through the male gaze. Chapter four discusses the ways in which Maria Edgeworth’s Castle Rackrent, Ennui, and The Absentee utilise Adam Smith’s The Wealth of Nations as a roadmap for Irish economic and social development but argues that this is problematised through the absence of politics in Smith, which inadvertently complicates Edgeworth’s message of economic
2

Material Footprint Assessment in a Global Input-Output Framework

Giljum, Stefan, Bruckner, Martin, Martinez, Aldo 30 December 2014 (has links) (PDF)
Material flow-based indicators play an important role in indicator sets related to green and resource-efficient growth. This paper examines the global flows of materials and the amounts of materials directly and indirectly necessary to satisfy domestic final demand in different countries world-wide. We calculate the indicator Raw Material Consumption (RMC), also referred to as Material Footprint (MF), by applying a global, multi-regional input-output (MRIO) model based on the GTAP database and extended by material extraction data. We examine world-wide patterns of material extraction and materials embodied in trade and consumption, investigating changes between 1997 and 2007. We find that flows of materials related to international trade have increased by almost 60% between 1997 and 2007. We show that the differences in Material Footprints per capita are huge, ranging from up to 100 tonnes in the rich, oil-exporting countries to values as low as 1.5 to 2 tonnes in some developing countries. We also quantify the differences between the indicators Domestic Material Consumption (DMC) and RMC, illustrating that net material exporters generally have a DMC larger than RMC, while the reverse is observed for net importers. Finally, we confirm the fact that most countries with stable or declining DMCs actually show increasing RMCs, indicating the occurrence of leakage effects, which are not fully captured by DMC. This challenges the world-wide use of DMC as a headline indicator for national material consumption and calls for the consideration of upstream material requirements of international trade flows.
3

Global patterns of material flows and their socio-economic and environmental implications: a MFA study on all countries world-wide from 1980 to 2009.

Giljum, Stefan, Dittrich, Monika, Lutter, Franz Stephan, Lieber, Mirko 18 March 2014 (has links) (PDF)
This paper assesses world-wide patterns of material extraction, trade, consumption and productivity based on a new data set for economy-wide material flows, covering used materials for all countries world-wide between 1980 and 2009. We show that global material extraction has grown by more than 90% over the past 30 years and is reaching almost 70 billion tonnes today. Also, trade volumes in physical terms have increased by a factor of 2.5 over the past 30 years, and in 2009, 9.3 billion tonnes of raw materials and products were traded around the globe. China has turned into the biggest consumer of materials world-wide and together with the US, India, Brazil and Russia, consumes more than 50% of all globally extracted materials. We also show that the per-capita consumption levels are very uneven, with a factor of more than 60 between the country with the lowest and highest consumption in 2009. On average, each human being consumed 10 tonnes of materials in 2009, 2 tonnes more than in 1980. We discuss whether decoupling of economies' growth from resource use has occurred and analyse interrelations of material use with human development. Finally, we elaborate on key environmental problems related to various material groups.
4

Lithium-ion battery systems: a process flow and systems framework designed for use in the development of life cycle energy model

Arora, Yukti 08 June 2015 (has links)
The use of Lithium-ion batteries in the automotive industry has increased tremendously in the last few years. The anticipated increase in demand of lithium to power electric and hybrid cars has prompted researchers to examine the long term sustainability lithium as a transportation resource. To provide a better understanding of future availability, this thesis presents a systems framework for the key processes and materials and energy flows involved in the electric vehicle lithium-ion battery life cycle, on a global scale. This framework tracks the flow of lithium and energy inputs and outputs from extraction, to production, to on road use, and all the way to end of life recycling and disposal. This process flow model is the first step in developing a life cycle analysis model for lithium that will eventually help policymakers assess the future role of lithium battery recycling, and at what point in time establishing a recycling infrastructure becomes imminent.
5

Consumption-based material flow indicators - Comparing six ways of calculating the Austrian raw material consumption providing six results

Eisenmenger, Nina, Wiedenhofer, Dominik, Schaffartzik, Anke, Giljum, Stefan, Bruckner, Martin, Schandl, Heinz, Wiedmann, Thomas, Lenzen, Manfred, Tukker, Arnold, Arjan, de Koning January 2016 (has links) (PDF)
Understanding the environmental implications of consumption and production depends on appropriate monitoring tools. Material flow accounting (MFA) is a method to monitor natural resource use by countries and has been widely used in research and policy. However, the increasing globalization requires the consideration of "embodied" material use of traded products. The indicator raw material consumption (RMC) represents the material use - no matter where in the world it occurs - associated with domestic final demand. It provides a consumption-based perspective complementary to the MFA indicators that have a territorial focus. Several studies on RMC have been presented recently but with diverging results; hence, a better understanding of the underlying differences is needed. This article presents a comparison of Austrian RMC for the year 2007 calculated by six different approaches (3 multi-regional input-output (MRIO) and 3 hybrid life-cycle analysis-IO approaches). Five approaches result in an RMC higher than the domestic material consumption (DMC). One hybrid LCA-IO approach calculates RMC to be lower than DMC. For specific material categories, results diverge by 50% or more. Due to the policy relevance of the RMC and DMC indicators it is paramount that their robustness is enhanced, which needs both data and method harmonization.
6

Caracterização do consumo domestico de materiais da cidade de Montevidéu mediante análise de fluxos de materiais / Characterization of domestic materials consumption in Montevideo attending the analysis of material flows

Mimbacas Rodriguez, Alicia Filomena January 2012 (has links)
As cidades podem ser definidas como sistemas abertos altamente dependentes do seu entorno para a provisão dos recursos naturais e eliminação dos resíduos. Abarcando 2% da superfície da terra, elas consomem aproximadamente 75% de seus recursos, expulsando resíduos em escala similar. Na atualidade, 50% da população mundial habita em cidades e é estimado que esta porcentagem ascenderá a 70% no 2050. Em particular, a América Latina apresenta uma crescente população urbana. No ano 1970, 57 % da população era urbana e estima se que se atinja 81% no 2025. O Uruguai é o país de América Latina de maior porcentagem de população urbana: 93%, em 2010. A Análise de Fluxos de Materiais (AFM) é una metodologia de avaliação do campo da economia ecológica que tem sido pouco considerada na planificação ou gestão urbana regional. Argumenta-se que essas abordagens são as que podem dar luz a um modelo de desenvolvimento de cidades mais sustentáveis, contribuindo para a definição de políticas publicas ambientais. O objetivo do trabalho é estimar quantitativamente o consumo doméstico de materiais (CDM) para a cidade de Montevidéu, no período entre os anos 2002 e 2009. Os principais desafios do trabalho foram a inexistência de metodologias de consenso de aplicação regional e a dificuldade na aquisição de dados, os quais se encontram em sua maioria desagregados em diferentes instituições públicas e privadas. O referencial metodológico adotado foi o proposto por EUROSTAT, aplicado a nível nacional pelas maiores economias da OCDE. O trabalho propõe uma estratégia de ponderação que permite a passagem da escala nacional á urbana, Os resultados obtidos evidenciam um aumento no consumo de materiais em Montevidéu na serie de anos analisada, sendo 80% deles de origem não renovável no ano 2009. A indústria da construção é responsável por mais de 50% do consumo total. A estimação quantitativa do CDM, para a cidade de Montevidéu, é um primeiro passo na identificação de alternativas para uma menor intensidade no uso de materiais, condição indispensável para um relacionamento mais equilibrado entre os sistemas socioeconômicos e o médio ambiente. O CDM de Montevidéu é uma ferramenta em processo, passível de ser aprimorada em futuros trabalhos. A principal dificuldade deste trabalho foi a compatibilização dos diferentes critérios de classificação de materiais da metodologia da EUROSTAT e das bases de dados nacionais. / Cities can be defined as open systems that are highly dependent on their environment for the provision of natural resources and waste disposal. Although cities only cover 2% of the surface of the earth, they consume 75% of its resources. Currently, 50% of the world population lives in cities and it is estimated that this number will rise to 70% in the year 2050. This phenomenon is remarkable in Latin America. While in 1970 its urban population was 57%, it is expected to climb to 81% by 2025. In this context, Uruguay is the country of Latin America that present the higher rate of urban population: 93% (year 2010). The Material Flow Analysis (MFA) (an evaluation methodology from the field of ecological economics) has not been contemplated on regional planning and urban management. However, it is argued that these approaches can enlighten the development of more sustainable cities contributing to the definition of environmental public policy. The aim of this work is to quantify the domestic consumption of materials (fossils, minerals and biomass) for the city of Montevideo, Uruguay for the years 2006 and 2009. At this point, the main barriers are the lack of agreed on regional implementation methodologies and the difficulty with data acquisition. The methodological guide to be used is the one defined by Eurostat, applied nationally for several years by the greatest OECD economies. The paper proposes a weighting strategy that allows the passage from a national scale to an urban one.The results obtained for the period of time analized show an increase in consumption of materials and energy. For instance, the consumption of non-renewable sources reached 80% for the year of2009. On this period, the construction industry was responsible for the 50% of the total consumption. This diagnosis let us perceive the paths to follow in order to reduce the intensity of the use of materials and energy, wich is imperative to create a balanced relationship between socioeconomic systems and the environment. The DMC of Montevideo is a tool in the process, which can be improved in future works. The main difficulty of this work was to reconcile the different criteria of classification of materials from EUROSTAT methodology with national databases.
7

Em busca da felicidade: uma pesquisa sobre o bem-estar no consumo

Torres, Polyanna de Arruda 15 May 2012 (has links)
Made available in DSpace on 2015-04-16T14:48:54Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 arquivototal.pdf: 1426770 bytes, checksum: 5e9483885097e3dd757300efd15d0c3f (MD5) Previous issue date: 2012-05-15 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior - CAPES / This dissertation is focused on the subjective well-being on consumption in their expanded perspective, investigating this phenomenon in the types of experiential and material consumption and materialism in this context. It is observed that the scope of consumption is fairly representative for the attainment of well-being of individuals, and the question of whether and how consumers reach the happiness who seeks in the market is a key concern, as actions aimed at the welfare of the consumers should be encouraged. Recognizing the presence of the phenomenon of happiness in individuals, but noting that some have higher levels of happiness than others, become increasingly relevant try to understand the factors that bring welfare more effectively in subjects, identifying the reasons that drive happiness in some people more than others. Thus, this research aimed to identify whether the experiential consumption is able to generate higher average levels of subjective well-being in the people than consumption of material goods, intermediating in the study the verification of individual's level of materialism. Consequently, the study provides an alternative vision for the pursuit of happiness on consumption through experiential consumption, in opposition to the materialistic view of the pursuit of happiness by means of material goods. Therefore, we developed an initial review of the literature addressing the topic subjective well-being, focusing on its historical aspects and its developments nowadays and in the consumption arena, in addition to addressing the theoretical perspectives of the types of experiential and material consumption as well as the implications of materialism in this context. Thus, with the constructs "Experiential Consumption Happiness", "Material Consumption Happiness" and "Materialism" defined from the theoretical perspectives, it was necessary validation of measurement instruments since the survey-based studies that had been made in the international context. Therefore, first of all the scales have gone through a process of reverse translation from English into Portuguese, in order to adapt the meaning of the items. Then the questionnaire was applied to the first sample, with 94 students, in order to make adjustments and improvements of the survey instrument to the next sampling. The second sample was composed of questionnaires collected online, reaching the margin of 253 respondents. This sample allowed the consolidation of the constructs in terms of validity and reliability of the scales used. Subsequently, we analyzed the mean differences in the types of experiential and material consumption in groups with high and low materialism. Generally, results indicate that the average of happiness in experiential consumption are significantly higher than in the material consumption in low materialism group, while the average of happiness in consumption experiential are smaller than the material consumption at high materialism group, and this difference is not significant. / Esta dissertação tem como tema central o bem-estar subjetivo no consumo em sua perspectiva ampliada, investigando esse fenômeno nos tipos de consumo experiencial e material e o materialismo nesse contexto. Observa-se que o âmbito de consumo é bastante representativo para o alcance do bem-estar dos indivíduos, e a questão de se e como os consumidores alcançam a felicidade que procuram no mercado é uma preocupação fundamental, pois ações que visem o bem-estar do consumidor devem ser estimuladas. Reconhecendo a presença do fenômeno da felicidade nos indivíduos, mas observando que alguns possuem níveis de felicidade mais elevados que outros, cada vez mais se faz relevante tentar desvendar os fatores que trazem bem-estar de forma mais efetiva nos sujeitos, identificando os motivos que impulsionam a felicidade em algumas pessoas mais do que em outras. Assim, a presente pesquisa visou a identificar se o consumo experiencial é capaz de gerar médias mais elevadas de bem-estar subjetivo nas pessoas do que o consumo de bens materiais, intermediando-se no estudo a verificação do nível de materialismo do indivíduo. Consequentemente, o estudo possibilita uma visão alternativa para busca da felicidade no consumo pela via do consumo experiencial, se contrapondo à visão materialista de busca da felicidade pelos bens materiais. Portanto, foi desenvolvida uma revisão da literatura abordando inicialmente o tema bem-estar subjetivo, discorrendo sobre seus aspectos históricos e desdobramentos na atualidade e no consumo, além de abordar as perspectivas teóricas dos tipos de consumo experiencial e material, bem como as implicações do materialismo nesse contexto. Dessa forma, com os construtos Felicidade no Consumo Experiencial , Felicidade no Consumo Material e Materialismo definidos a partir das perspectivas teóricas, foi necessária a validação dos instrumentos de mensuração, visto que os estudos de base dessa pesquisa haviam sido feitos em contexto internacional. Portanto, primeiramente as escalas passaram por um processo de tradução reversa, a fim de adaptar o sentido dos itens originalmente do inglês para o português. Em seguida, foi aplicado o questionário em um primeiro estudo, com 94 estudantes, a fim de efetuar ajustes e adaptações do instrumento de pesquisa para a próxima fase. O segundo estudo foi composto por questionários coletados online, alcançando a margem de 253 respondentes. Essa etapa permitiu a consolidação dos construtos em termos de validade e confiabilidade das escalas utilizadas. Posteriormente, foram analisadas as diferenças de médias nos tipos de consumo experiencial e material nos grupos com alto e baixo materialismo. De maneira geral, os resultados indicaram que as médias de felicidade no consumo experiencial são significativamente maiores do que no consumo material no grupo de baixo materialismo, enquanto que as médias de felicidade no consumo experiencial são menores do que no consumo material no grupo de alto materialismo, sendo que essa diferença não é significativa.
8

Caracterização do consumo domestico de materiais da cidade de Montevidéu mediante análise de fluxos de materiais / Characterization of domestic materials consumption in Montevideo attending the analysis of material flows

Mimbacas Rodriguez, Alicia Filomena January 2012 (has links)
As cidades podem ser definidas como sistemas abertos altamente dependentes do seu entorno para a provisão dos recursos naturais e eliminação dos resíduos. Abarcando 2% da superfície da terra, elas consomem aproximadamente 75% de seus recursos, expulsando resíduos em escala similar. Na atualidade, 50% da população mundial habita em cidades e é estimado que esta porcentagem ascenderá a 70% no 2050. Em particular, a América Latina apresenta uma crescente população urbana. No ano 1970, 57 % da população era urbana e estima se que se atinja 81% no 2025. O Uruguai é o país de América Latina de maior porcentagem de população urbana: 93%, em 2010. A Análise de Fluxos de Materiais (AFM) é una metodologia de avaliação do campo da economia ecológica que tem sido pouco considerada na planificação ou gestão urbana regional. Argumenta-se que essas abordagens são as que podem dar luz a um modelo de desenvolvimento de cidades mais sustentáveis, contribuindo para a definição de políticas publicas ambientais. O objetivo do trabalho é estimar quantitativamente o consumo doméstico de materiais (CDM) para a cidade de Montevidéu, no período entre os anos 2002 e 2009. Os principais desafios do trabalho foram a inexistência de metodologias de consenso de aplicação regional e a dificuldade na aquisição de dados, os quais se encontram em sua maioria desagregados em diferentes instituições públicas e privadas. O referencial metodológico adotado foi o proposto por EUROSTAT, aplicado a nível nacional pelas maiores economias da OCDE. O trabalho propõe uma estratégia de ponderação que permite a passagem da escala nacional á urbana, Os resultados obtidos evidenciam um aumento no consumo de materiais em Montevidéu na serie de anos analisada, sendo 80% deles de origem não renovável no ano 2009. A indústria da construção é responsável por mais de 50% do consumo total. A estimação quantitativa do CDM, para a cidade de Montevidéu, é um primeiro passo na identificação de alternativas para uma menor intensidade no uso de materiais, condição indispensável para um relacionamento mais equilibrado entre os sistemas socioeconômicos e o médio ambiente. O CDM de Montevidéu é uma ferramenta em processo, passível de ser aprimorada em futuros trabalhos. A principal dificuldade deste trabalho foi a compatibilização dos diferentes critérios de classificação de materiais da metodologia da EUROSTAT e das bases de dados nacionais. / Cities can be defined as open systems that are highly dependent on their environment for the provision of natural resources and waste disposal. Although cities only cover 2% of the surface of the earth, they consume 75% of its resources. Currently, 50% of the world population lives in cities and it is estimated that this number will rise to 70% in the year 2050. This phenomenon is remarkable in Latin America. While in 1970 its urban population was 57%, it is expected to climb to 81% by 2025. In this context, Uruguay is the country of Latin America that present the higher rate of urban population: 93% (year 2010). The Material Flow Analysis (MFA) (an evaluation methodology from the field of ecological economics) has not been contemplated on regional planning and urban management. However, it is argued that these approaches can enlighten the development of more sustainable cities contributing to the definition of environmental public policy. The aim of this work is to quantify the domestic consumption of materials (fossils, minerals and biomass) for the city of Montevideo, Uruguay for the years 2006 and 2009. At this point, the main barriers are the lack of agreed on regional implementation methodologies and the difficulty with data acquisition. The methodological guide to be used is the one defined by Eurostat, applied nationally for several years by the greatest OECD economies. The paper proposes a weighting strategy that allows the passage from a national scale to an urban one.The results obtained for the period of time analized show an increase in consumption of materials and energy. For instance, the consumption of non-renewable sources reached 80% for the year of2009. On this period, the construction industry was responsible for the 50% of the total consumption. This diagnosis let us perceive the paths to follow in order to reduce the intensity of the use of materials and energy, wich is imperative to create a balanced relationship between socioeconomic systems and the environment. The DMC of Montevideo is a tool in the process, which can be improved in future works. The main difficulty of this work was to reconcile the different criteria of classification of materials from EUROSTAT methodology with national databases.
9

Caracterização do consumo domestico de materiais da cidade de Montevidéu mediante análise de fluxos de materiais / Characterization of domestic materials consumption in Montevideo attending the analysis of material flows

Mimbacas Rodriguez, Alicia Filomena January 2012 (has links)
As cidades podem ser definidas como sistemas abertos altamente dependentes do seu entorno para a provisão dos recursos naturais e eliminação dos resíduos. Abarcando 2% da superfície da terra, elas consomem aproximadamente 75% de seus recursos, expulsando resíduos em escala similar. Na atualidade, 50% da população mundial habita em cidades e é estimado que esta porcentagem ascenderá a 70% no 2050. Em particular, a América Latina apresenta uma crescente população urbana. No ano 1970, 57 % da população era urbana e estima se que se atinja 81% no 2025. O Uruguai é o país de América Latina de maior porcentagem de população urbana: 93%, em 2010. A Análise de Fluxos de Materiais (AFM) é una metodologia de avaliação do campo da economia ecológica que tem sido pouco considerada na planificação ou gestão urbana regional. Argumenta-se que essas abordagens são as que podem dar luz a um modelo de desenvolvimento de cidades mais sustentáveis, contribuindo para a definição de políticas publicas ambientais. O objetivo do trabalho é estimar quantitativamente o consumo doméstico de materiais (CDM) para a cidade de Montevidéu, no período entre os anos 2002 e 2009. Os principais desafios do trabalho foram a inexistência de metodologias de consenso de aplicação regional e a dificuldade na aquisição de dados, os quais se encontram em sua maioria desagregados em diferentes instituições públicas e privadas. O referencial metodológico adotado foi o proposto por EUROSTAT, aplicado a nível nacional pelas maiores economias da OCDE. O trabalho propõe uma estratégia de ponderação que permite a passagem da escala nacional á urbana, Os resultados obtidos evidenciam um aumento no consumo de materiais em Montevidéu na serie de anos analisada, sendo 80% deles de origem não renovável no ano 2009. A indústria da construção é responsável por mais de 50% do consumo total. A estimação quantitativa do CDM, para a cidade de Montevidéu, é um primeiro passo na identificação de alternativas para uma menor intensidade no uso de materiais, condição indispensável para um relacionamento mais equilibrado entre os sistemas socioeconômicos e o médio ambiente. O CDM de Montevidéu é uma ferramenta em processo, passível de ser aprimorada em futuros trabalhos. A principal dificuldade deste trabalho foi a compatibilização dos diferentes critérios de classificação de materiais da metodologia da EUROSTAT e das bases de dados nacionais. / Cities can be defined as open systems that are highly dependent on their environment for the provision of natural resources and waste disposal. Although cities only cover 2% of the surface of the earth, they consume 75% of its resources. Currently, 50% of the world population lives in cities and it is estimated that this number will rise to 70% in the year 2050. This phenomenon is remarkable in Latin America. While in 1970 its urban population was 57%, it is expected to climb to 81% by 2025. In this context, Uruguay is the country of Latin America that present the higher rate of urban population: 93% (year 2010). The Material Flow Analysis (MFA) (an evaluation methodology from the field of ecological economics) has not been contemplated on regional planning and urban management. However, it is argued that these approaches can enlighten the development of more sustainable cities contributing to the definition of environmental public policy. The aim of this work is to quantify the domestic consumption of materials (fossils, minerals and biomass) for the city of Montevideo, Uruguay for the years 2006 and 2009. At this point, the main barriers are the lack of agreed on regional implementation methodologies and the difficulty with data acquisition. The methodological guide to be used is the one defined by Eurostat, applied nationally for several years by the greatest OECD economies. The paper proposes a weighting strategy that allows the passage from a national scale to an urban one.The results obtained for the period of time analized show an increase in consumption of materials and energy. For instance, the consumption of non-renewable sources reached 80% for the year of2009. On this period, the construction industry was responsible for the 50% of the total consumption. This diagnosis let us perceive the paths to follow in order to reduce the intensity of the use of materials and energy, wich is imperative to create a balanced relationship between socioeconomic systems and the environment. The DMC of Montevideo is a tool in the process, which can be improved in future works. The main difficulty of this work was to reconcile the different criteria of classification of materials from EUROSTAT methodology with national databases.
10

Mönsterkonstruktionens påverkan på materialåtgång : En undersökning om hur materialförbrukning påverkas vid val avalternativa mönsterkonstruktioner

Reed, Eva January 2017 (has links)
I detta arbete undersöks hur konstruktionsförändringar i mönster påverkar utnyttjandegrad och tygåtgång i en enfärgad, halvfodrad, herrkavaj som idag tillverkas på ett svenskt väletablerat konfektionsföretag. Funderingar kring tygåtgång och materialoptimering uppstod då tillskärning och sömnad av kavajprovet gjordes. Designen och därmed konstruktionen är i dagsläget sådan, att man använder yttertyg till vissa mönsterdelar som i helfodrade herrkavajer vanligtvis tillverkas i fodertyg. Yttertyg kräver i förhållande till fodertyg mer fibrer och är mer kostsamt, därför ska det i detta arbete undersökas hur tre alternativa mönsterkonstruktioner påverkar tygåtgång och utnyttjandegraden av material. Förhoppningen är att för företaget spara pengar och inte minst i förlängningen vara fördelaktigt ur ett hållbarhetsperspektiv. Tillvägagångssätt för att undersöka materialoptimeringen är en rekonstruktionsprocess, en läggbildsprocess och slutligen en sammanställning, där de alternativa konstruktionernas resultat sammanställs. Detta resultat visas för företaget, som tar ställning till vilken typ av konstruktion man i framtiden kan välja i respektive tillverkning. Vid jämförelsen av ursprungsmodellen mot de alternativa konstruktionerna, visade det sig i det här fallet vara fördelaktigt både ekonomiskt och miljömässigt att använda en alternativ konstruktion. / In this thesis a study on how pattern construction affects utilization and material consumption in a solid colored blazer has been made. The original blazer is currently produced at a Swedish clothing company. When cutting and sewing of sales sample was done, thoughts about material consumption and utilization appeared. In today’s design, by that means construction, shell fabric is used as facing and as parts of the lining and pockets, which are usually made out of lining. Shell fabric requires more fibers and is in comparison to lining more costly. Therefore in this thesis it will be investigated, how three alternative pattern constructions affects the consumption and utilization of fabric. The purpose is to help the company save money and contribute to a positive economic situation, as well as having a positive impact on our environment. The approach used to investigate material optimization, is a pattern reconstruction process, a marker making process and a summary, which will show the results of the study’s variations. The result is presented to the company, which can make a decision on which construction will be used in future productions. When comparing the original blazer with the variable patterns, was in this case shown being advantageously both economically and environmentally.

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