Thesis (M. Tech. (Fashion, Dept. of Visual Arts and Design)--Vaal University of Technology / This study was contracted by the African Warrior Project of the South African National Defence Force (SANDF). The goal was to explore and describe fit in terms of ease of selected female military upper garments, namely the closely fitted dress jacket and the loosely fitted combat shirt issued by the SANDF. The objectives of this study were firstly, to determine and interpret the amount of tolerance that will comply with the functional requirements related to the activities and comfort of an optimum number of wearers and result in an aesthetically acceptable fit; secondly to analyse and interpret the suitability of the key dimensions used to determine the current size designation in terms of body shapes and gender; thirdly, to determine and interpret the relevance and the validity of the currently used sizing system with regard to representativeness of the current population's measurements. The findings indicated that satisfaction with fit was influenced by fit preferences. Insufficient as well as excess case in a particular location resulted in discomfort or restricted movement and an aesthetically unacceptable garment. Insufficient or excess ease at one location impacted on the comfort experienced in another location on the same horisontal level. Subjects wearing smaller sizes were satisfied with less ease than plus-sized subjects wearing larger sizes. The key dimensions used for the dress jacket and the combat shirt did not ensure sufficient ease at other locations. It was therefore recommended to include the waist and hip dimensions as key dimensions in the size designation to accommodate various body shapes and assist with size allocation. Garments for female wearers carmot be issued according to male body dimensions. The sizing system needs to be revised to represent the population's measurements. / ERGOnomics TECHnologies; Vaal University of Technology

A dynamic mannequin testing facility has been constructed to test the thermal protective properties of Navy uniforms and protective clothing. The existing facility consists of a traversing mannequin mechanism that passes through a fire that has been spatially characterized by temperature and heat flux measurements. The fire is provided by 8 propane sand burners in a modified ISO 9705 room. The current project is a continuation of work done by WPI Students over the last 5 years. A copper disk surface heat flux transducer has been designed and calibrated in the WPI Cone Calorimeter. The mannequin has been instrumented with 40 of these transducers for the acquisition of heat flux data during fire exposures. Heat Flux data was collected with the bare mannequin and through protective clothing for a range of exposure times. A finite difference method approach is used to model the skins temperature response at the epidermis-dermis interface. This temperature is used to predict 1st and 2nd degree skin burns using Henrique's burn damage integral. The percent total body area (%TBA) affected by burns can be calculated by this method. The facility is now capable of providing comparative data on the relative thermal protection provided by different clothing.