Les barres sableuses pré-littorales ont un rôle fondamental en morphodynamique des plages soumises à l’action des vagues. Le déséquilibre permanent entre les flux sédimentaires induits vers laplage par les non linéarités des vagues et ceux induits vers le large par le courant de retour gouverne lamigration transversale des barres. Dans cette thèse, un nouveau modèle morphodynamique de profilde plage intégrant l’état de l’art des processus hydro-sédimentaires a été développé. Le faible coûten temps de calcul de ce modèle permet de réaliser des simulations à long terme, O(mois/années),de la morphologie de plages réelles ayant des caractéristiques variées (pente, type de déferlement,granularité). La simulation sur plusieurs jeux de données, de plages réelles et expérimentales, a permisd’identifier la contribution respective des principaux processus hydro-sedimentaires dans la dynamiquede la plage suivant les conditions de houle (e.g. Tempête, temps calme). Ces avancées scientifiques ontété intégrées à un modèle 2DH, ce qui a notamment permis de simuler pour la première fois sur des casacadémiques la formation d’une barre sableuse rectiligne à partir d’une plage parfaitement plane, suiviedu développement de corps sableux tridimensionnels. Ces résultats ouvrent la voie vers l’applicationde ce type de modèle aux plages naturelles soumises à une large variabilité de régimes de houle. / Sandbars are ubiquitous patterns along wave-dominated sandy coastlines and are key elementsin the global evolution of beaches. Cross-shore sandbar migrations are the result of the permanentimbalance between sediment flux driven by wave non-linearity and mean return current. In this thesis,we developed a new process-based beach profile model integrating the recent scientific advancesin term of hydrodynamics and sediment transport developed for beach morphodynamics. The lowcomputing time allows for long-term morphodynamic simulations (O months/years) of natural beachprofiles of diverse characteristics (beach slope, sediment grain size or type of wave breaking). Modelvalidations on several data sets, encompassing natural and experimental beach profile evolutions,highlight the respective contribution of the main hydrodynamic and sediment transport processesinvolved in specific cross-shore sandbar evolution relative to various wave conditions. Finally, all thecross-shore physical processes were integrated in a 2DH morphodynamic model, resulting for the firsttime in the simulation of a quasi-complete down state sequence showing alongshore bar generationwith subsequent spontaneous formation of transverse bar and rip morphology. These very encouragingresults pave the way for using this model to simulate 3-Dimensional evolutions of natural beachesforced by irregular wave conditions

Sharks are considered top predators in many marine ecosystems, and can play an important role in structuring those communities. As a result, it is necessary to understand the factors that influence their abundance and distribution. This is particularly important as fishery managers develop fishery management plans for sharks that identify areas that serve as essential fish habitat (EFH). This includes nursery habitat where sharks are born and juveniles spend the early part of their life. However, our understanding of shark habitat use in the northeast Florida waters is limited. The goal of this thesis was to characterize the abundance and distribution of sharks in northeast Florida estuaries, and to examine the effect of abiotic and biotic factors affecting shark habitat use. A bottom longline survey conducted from 2009 – 2011 indicated that 11 shark species use the estuarine waters of northeast Florida during summer months. Atlantic sharpnose (Rhizoprionodon terraenovae), blacktip (Carcharhinus limbatus), bonnethead (Sphyrna tiburo), and sandbar sharks (Carcharhinus plumbeus) were the most abundant species and made up 87.1% of the total catch. Month, bottom water temperature, and depth were the most important factors determining the presence and abundance of these species. This study also examined the role of prey abundance in determining the abundance of Atlantic sharpnose sharks. The probability of catching an Atlantic sharpnose shark, and the abundance of Atlantic sharpnose sharks, were most influenced by site. Neither potential prey abundance nor preferred prey abundance were not significant factors effecting Atlantic sharpnose abundance. This may be a result of prey sampling not providing an accurate measure of the true availability of prey resources. Other factors, such as predation risk, may better explain habitat use patterns of Atlantic sharpnose sharks. Continued sampling will give a better understanding of the factors influencing shark habitat use in this area.