The relative enrichment of skin sebaceous gland lipids with deuterium-labeled α-tocopherol was compared with plasma enrichment to evaluate the delivery of vitamin E to skin. For the first week of this study, each subject consumed a daily dose of deuterated vitamin E (150 mg of an equimolar mixture of RRR-α-[5-(C²H₃)]-(d₃) and all rac-α-[5,7-(C²H₃)₂]-(d₆) tocopheryl acetates) with breakfast. Blood was drawn and skin lipids were collected daily for two weeks, then every other day for the following two weeks. Labeled and unlabeled vitamin E analysis was carried out using liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry (LC/MS). Skin cholesterol, plasma cholesterol and triglycerides were measured to evaluate changes in vitamin E levels relative to lipid content. While d₃ and d₆-α-tocopherols were found in plasma 24 h after the first dose, d₃-α-tocopherol was only detected in the skin sebaceous gland secretions after 1 week of supplementation. This data suggests a skin-mediated delivery system for vitamin E into skin lipid secretions. This finding is also supported by the observation that the ratio of α-to γ-tocopherol was greater in the skin than in the plasma. / Graduation date: 2002

A study was performed to investigate the effect of diets rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids and other related nutrients, in the effort to improve skin and hair coat conditions in canines. The study included 24 dogs fed a baseline diet (Ol’Roy®), with an acclimation period of 12 weeks (Phase I). Nine female beagles and 15 male hound mixed-bred dogs were used. For the next 12 weeks (Phase II) the dogs were randomly divided into three groups and fed one of three specially formulated complete and balanced diets. Differences among the three diets were as follows: Diet A contained lower but adequate amounts of dietary zinc and linoleic acid than Diet B. Diet C was similar to Diet B with respect to zinc but contained less linoleic acid and more alpha-linolenic acid. In the beginning, a preliminary study assessing skin lipids showed that hair is a suitable material to analyze. This study lead to the subsequent investigation, using plucked and shed hair samples obtained on weeks 3, 7, and 11 (Phase I) and again on weeks 1, 3, 7, and 11 (Phase II). One objective of this research was to investigate the dietary effects of the combination of linoleic acid in combination with zinc on canine sebum lipids during a 12 week diet phase. Another objective was to investigate if any correlation existed between the hair cycle anagen and telogen phase of the hair follicle and the lipid constituents present in the sebum during the 12 week acclimation phase and the 12 week feeding trial. Two hypotheses were tested. First, the lipid content of hair can be altered by fat and fatty acid composition of the diet. Second, the modification of dietary fat and polyunsaturated fatty acids lead to changes in hair lipids that may be related to improved skin and hair coat scores. Over the 12 week feeding period of Phase II, test results revealed statistically significant increases in both CE and CE/WD, and a prolonged growth of hair follicles in the anagen phase of diet B dogs, which are both consistent with improved skin and hair coat scores.

Cleanliness is one of the most essential virtues needed for a healthy lifestyle. While there have been several attempts made to characterize the cleanness of food, water and air by quality monitoring, there has been very little attention given to the cleanness characterization of clothing. Clothing worn next to the skin is easily contaminated by solid particles and fluid substances picked up from the surrounding environment and the skin surface. The fluid contamination could be either aqueous or oily in nature. Human sweat and sebum are one of the major constituents of oily organic soils found in worn clothing. Studies show that oily organic contaminations tend to remain in the clothing even after laundering, thereby creating malodors. While there are several industry established standards to evaluate visible solid contamination such as dust, dirt and colored stains, measuring the amount of invisible oily contaminations has been difficult. Moreover, many of the cleanness evaluation methods are subjective. This exploratory research aimed at measuring the level of sweat and sebum soiling in textile fabrics. Due to the affinity of ozone towards the unsaturated components of sebum, the feasibility of using the reaction rates of ozone as a metric to quantify the level of organic soiling in clothing was tested. The fabrics selected for this study were representative of the commonly used fiber composition in activewear and innerwear. The sweat and sebum used for fabric soiling were synthetic in nature. The fabric swatches were soiled with synthetic sebum at two extreme levels of soiling (0.3% and 1% of the fabric weight). A lab built four-chamber ozonation equipment was used for the experimentation with ozone. The reactivity of ozone with the soiled fabrics was measured in terms of ozone concentrations in ppb. The data obtained was plotted against time and the slopes were recorded. The plots showed a significant difference in the slopes indicating that the rate of ozone reactivity varied with the level of soiling. The slopes were steeper for higher levels of soils, particularly in the cotton samples. There was also a marked difference in the reaction rates between the cotton and polyester fabrics at the same level of soiling. The results obtained from the study fulfilled the hypothesis and looks promising for developing an objective method of measuring cleanness of clothing. Moreover, an adjunct qualitative study was conducted to assess the sensitivity of the human odor sensor to acknowledge the difference in the level of soiling through sensory analysis. The results from the study substantiated the need for an objective method of cleanness measurement. / text

No / The nervous system communicates with peripheral tissues through nerve fibres and the systemic release of hypothalamic and pituitary neurohormones. Communication between the nervous system and the largest human organ, skin, has traditionally received little attention. In particular, the neuro-regulation of sebaceous glands (SGs), a major skin appendage, is rarely considered. Yet, it is clear that the SG is under stringent pituitary control, and forms a fascinating, clinically relevant peripheral target organ in which to study the neuroendocrine and neural regulation of epithelia. Sebum, the major secretory product of the SG, is composed of a complex mixture of lipids resulting from the holocrine secretion of specialised epithelial cells (sebocytes). It is indicative of a role of the neuroendocrine system in SG function that excess circulating levels of growth hormone, thyroxine or prolactin result in increased sebum production (seborrhoea). Conversely, growth hormone deficiency, hypothyroidism, and adrenal insufficiency result in reduced sebum production and dry skin. Furthermore, the androgen sensitivity of SGs appears to be under neuroendocrine control, as hypophysectomy (removal of the pituitary) renders SGs largely insensitive to stimulation by testosterone, which is crucial for maintaining SG homeostasis. However, several neurohormones, such as adrenocorticotropic hormone and α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone, can stimulate sebum production independently of either the testes or the adrenal glands, further underscoring the importance of neuroendocrine control in SG biology. Moreover, sebocytes synthesise several neurohormones and express their receptors, suggestive of the presence of neuro-autocrine mechanisms of sebocyte modulation. Aside from the neuroendocrine system, it is conceivable that secretion of neuropeptides and neurotransmitters from cutaneous nerve endings may also act on sebocytes or their progenitors, given that the skin is richly innervated. However, to date, the neural controls of SG development and function remain poorly investigated and incompletely understood. Botulinum toxin-mediated or facial paresis-associated reduction of human sebum secretion suggests that cutaneous nerve-derived substances modulate lipid and inflammatory cytokine synthesis by sebocytes, possibly implicating the nervous system in acne pathogenesis. Additionally, evidence suggests that cutaneous denervation in mice alters the expression of key regulators of SG homeostasis. In this review, we examine the current evidence regarding neuroendocrine and neurobiological regulation of human SG function in physiology and pathology. We further call attention to this line of research as an instructive model for probing and therapeutically manipulating the mechanistic links between the nervous system and mammalian skin. / Agency for Science, Technology and Research. Grant Numbers: A*STAR Research Attachment Programme (ARAP), IAF‐PP H17/01/a0/004, IAF‐PP H17/01/a0/008; NIHR Manchester Biomedical Research Centre, Inflammatory Hair Disease Programme; University of Manchester; University of Miami

No description available.

The aim of this diploma thesis was to investigate the effect of surfactants and cosmetic polysaccharides on skin parameters and its microbiome. Three surfactants were tested to determine their effect: Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS), Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB), Decylglucoside (DG). Distilled water was also used for comparison. For the next part of the experimental work were selected 6 polysaccharides: high molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid (HMW HA), very low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid (VLMW HA), Sodium Caproyl Hyaluronate (CaproylHA), Sodium Carboxymethyl -Glucan (NaCMG), Schizophyllan and Glucomannan. For comparison, placebo and untreated control (only CAPB treatment) were also included in the tests. The first part of the work is a literature search on the assigned topic, which contains the following parts: skin anatomy and its biophysical properties, skin microbiome and its functions, description of used surfactants and polysaccharides. The experimental part is mainly focused on bioengineering methods for evaluation of skin parameters and qRT-PCR to determine the relative proportion of main bacterial species of skin microbiome. First, the effect on the CT gene of 16S rDNA was analysed, and Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis strains were selected for further analysis. In conclusion are presented an overview of all properties of selected substances and assessment of their application in cosmetics.

Introdução: Acne é uma dermatose que apresenta o padrão do sebo alterado, tanto quali, quanto quantitativamente. Objetivos: Estudar as possíveis alterações quali e quantitativas dos ácidos graxos encontrados no sebo de portadores de acne vulgar graus II ou III mediante ao uso diário de limeciclina e/ou suplemento oral a base de ácidos linoleico, gamalinolênico e oleico. Métodos: Quarenta e cinco sujeitos de pesquisa masculinos, de 12 a 40 anos de idade, portadores de acne vulgar graus II ou III, submeteram-se a 90 dias de uso de: Grupo A, 300mg/dia de limeciclina; Grupo B, 540mg de ácidos gamalinolênico, 1.200mg linoleico e 510mg oleico/dia; Grupo C: Grupos A+B. A cada 30 dias, eles tinham amostra de sebo da fronte coletada para análise cromatográfica dos ácidos graxos nele presentes. Resultados: Quarenta sujeitos de pesquisa (88,9%) concluíram o estudo, os quais ingeriram todas as doses dos produtos, sem apresentarem eventos adversos em qualquer dos Grupos. O número de comedões, pústulas e cistos reduziu com o tempo (p<0,001, para todos), nos três Grupos. Com relação ao número total de lesões, houve uma maior quantidade de lesões em pacientes do Grupo B, quando comparados aos do Grupo A (p=0,033) e aos do Grupo C (p=0,030). Sete ácidos graxos apresentaram mudanças de seu padrão durante o estudo. De um modo geral, as mudanças que se tornaram mais evidentes foram: 1) a concentração de esqualeno no SB não reduziu em qualquer Grupo de estudo; 2) C12:0, C14:0 e C16:1 tiveram suas respectivas concentrações aumentadas nos três Grupos com o tempo de terapêuticas; 3) há indicativo de aumento de C18:1n9c+C18:1n9t na associação das duas classes terapêuticas estudadas; 4) limeciclina e/ou ingestão de ácido linoleico não aumentaram a participação do ácido linoleico no sebo; 5) ácido -linolênico teve sua concentração aumentada e, depois diminuída com o uso de LM e/ou com sua própria suplementação oral. Conclusões: A administração diária de limeciclina e/ou ácidos gamalinolênico, linoleico e oleico pode alterar o comportamento de alguns dos ácidos graxos presentes no sebo de pacientes portadores de acne vulgar graus II ou III. Os ácidos gamalinolênico, linoleico e oleico, se no uso sistêmico, não são considerados agentes terapêuticos na abordagem da acne; mais estudos precisam ser realizados a fim de se inferir a existência de possível benefício clínico de seu uso isolado e/ou associado na abordagem desta dermatose / Introduction: Acne is a dermatosis that presents an altered sebum pattern, quantitatively and qualitatively. Objectives: To study the possible quantitative and qualitative changes of fatty acids found in the sebum of patients with acne vulgaris grade II or III, through the daily use of lymecycline and/or oral supplementation based on linoleic, gamma-linolenic, and oleic acids. Methods: Fortyfive male research subjects, ages 12 to 40, presenting acne vulgaris grade II or III, were submitted to a 90-day use of: Group 1, 300mg of lymecycline per day; Group 2, 540mg of gamma-linolenic acid, 1,200mg of linoleic acid, and e 510mg of oleic acid per day; Group 3: Groups A+B. Every 30 days, a sample of the sebum of their forehead was collected for chromatographic analysis of the fatty acids contained therein. Results: Forty research subjects (88.9%) concluded the study. They ingested all dosages of the products, without presenting side effects in any of the Groups. The number of comedones, pustules, and cysts reduced with time (p<0.001, for all), in all the 3 Groups. With respect to the total number of lesions, Group B´s patients presented a larger quantity of lesions, as compared to those of Group A (p=0.033) and Group C (p=0.030). Seven fatty acids presented pattern changes during the study. In general, the changes that became more evident were: 1) the squalene concentration in the sebum did not diminish in any Group under study; 2) C12:0, C14:0, and C16:1 had their respective concentrations increased in the 3 Groups over the time of the treatments; 3) there is an indication for increasing of C18:1n9t+C18:1n9c when both of therapies are associated; 4) lymecycline and/or the ingestion of linoleic acid did not increase the participation of linoleic acid in the sebum; and 5) gama-linolenic acid had its concentration increased during the first 60-day and diminished during the last 30-day therapies period using lymecycline and/or with its own oral supplementation. Conclusions: The daily administration of lymecycline and/or gamma-linolenic, linoleic, and oleic acids may alter the behavior of some fatty acids present in the sebum of patients with acne vulgaris grade II or III. Gamma-linolenic, linoleic, and oleic acids, under systemic use, are not considered therapeutic agents in the treatment of acne; more studies need to be carried out in order to infer the existence of a possible clinical benefit of their isolated use and/or association in the treatment of this dermatosis

Introdução: Acne é uma dermatose que apresenta o padrão do sebo alterado, tanto quali, quanto quantitativamente. Objetivos: Estudar as possíveis alterações quali e quantitativas dos ácidos graxos encontrados no sebo de portadores de acne vulgar graus II ou III mediante ao uso diário de limeciclina e/ou suplemento oral a base de ácidos linoleico, gamalinolênico e oleico. Métodos: Quarenta e cinco sujeitos de pesquisa masculinos, de 12 a 40 anos de idade, portadores de acne vulgar graus II ou III, submeteram-se a 90 dias de uso de: Grupo A, 300mg/dia de limeciclina; Grupo B, 540mg de ácidos gamalinolênico, 1.200mg linoleico e 510mg oleico/dia; Grupo C: Grupos A+B. A cada 30 dias, eles tinham amostra de sebo da fronte coletada para análise cromatográfica dos ácidos graxos nele presentes. Resultados: Quarenta sujeitos de pesquisa (88,9%) concluíram o estudo, os quais ingeriram todas as doses dos produtos, sem apresentarem eventos adversos em qualquer dos Grupos. O número de comedões, pústulas e cistos reduziu com o tempo (p<0,001, para todos), nos três Grupos. Com relação ao número total de lesões, houve uma maior quantidade de lesões em pacientes do Grupo B, quando comparados aos do Grupo A (p=0,033) e aos do Grupo C (p=0,030). Sete ácidos graxos apresentaram mudanças de seu padrão durante o estudo. De um modo geral, as mudanças que se tornaram mais evidentes foram: 1) a concentração de esqualeno no SB não reduziu em qualquer Grupo de estudo; 2) C12:0, C14:0 e C16:1 tiveram suas respectivas concentrações aumentadas nos três Grupos com o tempo de terapêuticas; 3) há indicativo de aumento de C18:1n9c+C18:1n9t na associação das duas classes terapêuticas estudadas; 4) limeciclina e/ou ingestão de ácido linoleico não aumentaram a participação do ácido linoleico no sebo; 5) ácido -linolênico teve sua concentração aumentada e, depois diminuída com o uso de LM e/ou com sua própria suplementação oral. Conclusões: A administração diária de limeciclina e/ou ácidos gamalinolênico, linoleico e oleico pode alterar o comportamento de alguns dos ácidos graxos presentes no sebo de pacientes portadores de acne vulgar graus II ou III. Os ácidos gamalinolênico, linoleico e oleico, se no uso sistêmico, não são considerados agentes terapêuticos na abordagem da acne; mais estudos precisam ser realizados a fim de se inferir a existência de possível benefício clínico de seu uso isolado e/ou associado na abordagem desta dermatose / Introduction: Acne is a dermatosis that presents an altered sebum pattern, quantitatively and qualitatively. Objectives: To study the possible quantitative and qualitative changes of fatty acids found in the sebum of patients with acne vulgaris grade II or III, through the daily use of lymecycline and/or oral supplementation based on linoleic, gamma-linolenic, and oleic acids. Methods: Fortyfive male research subjects, ages 12 to 40, presenting acne vulgaris grade II or III, were submitted to a 90-day use of: Group 1, 300mg of lymecycline per day; Group 2, 540mg of gamma-linolenic acid, 1,200mg of linoleic acid, and e 510mg of oleic acid per day; Group 3: Groups A+B. Every 30 days, a sample of the sebum of their forehead was collected for chromatographic analysis of the fatty acids contained therein. Results: Forty research subjects (88.9%) concluded the study. They ingested all dosages of the products, without presenting side effects in any of the Groups. The number of comedones, pustules, and cysts reduced with time (p<0.001, for all), in all the 3 Groups. With respect to the total number of lesions, Group B´s patients presented a larger quantity of lesions, as compared to those of Group A (p=0.033) and Group C (p=0.030). Seven fatty acids presented pattern changes during the study. In general, the changes that became more evident were: 1) the squalene concentration in the sebum did not diminish in any Group under study; 2) C12:0, C14:0, and C16:1 had their respective concentrations increased in the 3 Groups over the time of the treatments; 3) there is an indication for increasing of C18:1n9t+C18:1n9c when both of therapies are associated; 4) lymecycline and/or the ingestion of linoleic acid did not increase the participation of linoleic acid in the sebum; and 5) gama-linolenic acid had its concentration increased during the first 60-day and diminished during the last 30-day therapies period using lymecycline and/or with its own oral supplementation. Conclusions: The daily administration of lymecycline and/or gamma-linolenic, linoleic, and oleic acids may alter the behavior of some fatty acids present in the sebum of patients with acne vulgaris grade II or III. Gamma-linolenic, linoleic, and oleic acids, under systemic use, are not considered therapeutic agents in the treatment of acne; more studies need to be carried out in order to infer the existence of a possible clinical benefit of their isolated use and/or association in the treatment of this dermatosis