Thesis (M.S.)--Naval Postgraduate School, 1995. / "September, 1995." Includes bibliographical references (p. 107-109).

Thesis (Ph. D.)--McGill University, 1967. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 79-85).

Dissertation (Ph.D. in Physical Oceanography)--Naval Postgraduate School, June 2010. / Dissertation supervisor: Thornton, Edward B. "June 2010." Description based on title screen as viewed on July 16, 2010. Author(s) subject terms: Rip channels, megacusps, alongshore sediment transport, morphodynamics, XBeach, surf-zone video, correlations, infragravity, VLF. Includes bibliographical references (p. 103-108). Also available in print.

Thesis (Ph. D.) University of Southern California, 1969.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Ohio State University, 2006. / Title from first page of PDF file. Includes bibliographical references (p. 228-237).

Thesis (M.S.)--Oregon State University, 1982. / Typescript (photocopy). Includes bibliographical references (leaves 78-81). Also available on the World Wide Web.

Thesis (M.S. in engineering)--Washington State University, August 2006. / Includes bibliographical references (p. 36-40).

University, Diss., 2004--Bonn.

The majority of fundamental research on wave-driven sediment transport has been based on regular waves and regular oscillatory flows. Systematic research into isolating the effect of irregularity on oscillatory boundary layer hydrodynamics and sand transport are not presently available. This research reports on large-scale oscillatory flow tunnel experiments designed to isolate the effect of flow irregularity (specifically amplitude-modulated flows) on oscillatory flow boundary layer hydrodynamics and net sand transport rates. Two main series of experiments - one focussing on the hydrodynamics of amplitude-modulated flows over a fixed (immobile) bed and a second focussing on the sediment transport over mobile sand beds – were conducted. Detailed boundary layer velocity measurements are presented for regular and amplitude-modulated oscillatory flows over two fixed rough beds, coarse sand and gravel. The results show that amplitude-modulation of the flow has a variable effect on the hydrodynamic behaviour of the oscillatory boundary layer: the broad conclusion is that time-history effects are not significant near the bed but become more significant higher in the flow. Net transport rate measurements are presented for regular and amplitudemodulated flows for two mobile sand beds, medium and fine sand. The mobile bed experiments show that: for medium sand, net transport rates are similar for the amplitude-modulated and equivalent regular; for fine sand, net transport rates are very different for the amplitude-modulated and equivalent regular flows. The SANTOSS model-predicted sand transport rates shows that the model correctly predicts the net transport for the present experimental conditions, indicating that the major unsteady transport processes are captured in the model. The SANTOSS model is used to compare net transport rates for equivalent regular and amplitude-modulated flows across a wide range of flow conditions and two sand sizes. The results show good agreement in net transport rate between equivalent regular and amplitude-modulated flows, for conditions in which phase lag effects are weak and poor agreement when phase lags effects are strong.

Speculation has arisen regarding the possibility of an additional offshore sediment source on the Atlantic inner shelf south of Long Island, New York, as a result of deficits in recent south shore budgetary estimates. In view of the importance of Long Island's inner shelf as a possible sediment source for other conflicting commercial uses in the future, the present study attempts to compare the known source at Montauk Point with sediments from buried palaeodrainage channels and nearby offshore and to examine the degree to which they may be linked to south shore beaches. Samples from each of these three environments were subjected to S.E.M. analysis using a checklist approach. Qualitative results comparing individual quartz grain surface feature variability with transport distance west of Montauk Point divided the south shore into three sections largely on the basis of mechanically derived and source textures: the distinctive glacial deposits formed in Ronkonkoma moraine at Montauk Point; Headlands section beaches, and Fire Island beaches. Surface feature variability plots and between sample variability plots revealed a more complex pattern of surface feature development than may be expected from what appears to be generally a single alongshore-trending wave dominated regime, which suggests an additional control such as an offshore source. Canonical variate analysis, as well as cluster and factor analyses confirmed qualitative findings and tentatively link offshore lobe deposits with onshore Fire island beaches, and distinguish them from Headlands beaches and Montauk Point. Strong supporting and complementary links between qualitative results, photographic evidence and subsequent statistical analysis suggest that the technique employed is a useful and valid sedimentological tool.