River mouths are characterised by a conflict between marine and fluvial processes, in which the planimetry of the mouth is dependent on the relative contribution of wave, tide and current, which may be manifested in spit and barrier accumulation forms, and the often opposing force of river discharge. Analysis of historical geomorphological evidence shows that the Donmouth has a history of constant change. In 1975-74, in order to assess the relative importance of fluvial and marine factors in explaining this change, monthly and seasonal tacheometric and sediment sampling was undertaken on the spit-bar which extends north across the mouth, and on the updrift beach. The dynamics of both form and material were measured. Hydro™ . graphic surveys of the estuary, nearshore and offshore morphology and material, and measurements of waves and currents were also conducted in the field. Field'data was analysed in_the laboratory and-by computer to produce quantitative results which serve to complement the qualitative description,. Results of the various analyses serve to illustrate a model example of rlver-mouth variability and dynamic equilibrium. The Donmouth Is located in a stretch of soft coastline characterised by a strong south to north wave and current energy continuum, which is reflected in northerly increases in elements of beach, nearshore and offshore form, process and material, out of the wave shadow provided by the rock headland at the southern extremity of th© bay. a s part of this continuum, the Donmouth is largely characterised by a marine-formed spit-bar, whose dimensions are dependent on the level of river and estuarine discharge. Models of spit-bar variability and of river-mouth planimetry were thus facilitated and are presented.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Louisiana State University, 1979. / Vita. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 87-92).

Abstract: This essay is a comparative study conducted on several iron staffs and a few staffs made of wood believed to be either roasting spits, measurement rods or staffs of sorcery. The aim of the study is to distinguish if all the staffs can be perceived as staffs of sorcery or which of them should not be considered as such. Also if there is a standard type of staffs of sorcery. Furthermore the study will also contain the question, if the ritual specialization of “volur” could be a role in which an ordinary matron would be able to perform as. Another question is if the Sami shamanism share features with the Nordic ritual of “seidr”, if so, is there reason to believe the staffs also might share features with shamanism.

L'objectif de ce mémoire est de comprendre le fonctionnement hydro-sédimentaire des embouchures tidales dominées par la marée et la construction d'une flèche sableuse à crochets perpendiculaires. Deux sites voisins ont été choisis : les embouchures de l'Orne et de la Dives sur la côte du Calvados (Normandie). L'utilisation de données d'agitation et topographiques, acquises selon plusieurs échelles spatio-temporelles, permet d'étudier la morphodynamique de ces deux embouchures.L'embouchure de l'Orne possède une évolution soumise à une forte pression anthropique causée par de nombreuses infrastructures portuaires. Elle est comparée à celle de l'embouchure de la Dives, où l'impact anthropique est plus limité. Il apparaît que ces deux embouchures partagent les mêmes mécanismes de transports sédimentaires, avec une composante transversale importante. Ce transport vers la côte est assuré par la migration de barres de swash sur les parties aval-dérive des deltas de jusant. Ces barres de swash possèdent des volumes et des vitesses de migration similaires, comprises entre 3.5 et 8.0 m/mois.Contrairement à la Dives, les côtes en amont et en aval-dérive de l'embouchure de l'Orne sont en accrétion. Si en amont, cette accrétion suit les nombreuses phases de construction du port de Caen-Ouistreham, en aval se développe depuis un peu plus d'un siècle une flèche sableuse à la morphologie atypique. En effet, cette flèche possède plusieurs crochons emboités, dont les extrémités - les crochets - sont perpendiculaires au corps à la flèche. Il est démontré que l'attachement des barres de swash à la côte est responsable de la formation d'un nouveau crochon. La diffraction des vagues au niveau de l'extrémité des barres de swash et des crochons, ainsi que les directions locales de l'agitation, expliquent la formation des crochets perpendiculaires à l'extrémité des crochons. / The aim of this thesis is to understand the mechanisms of sediment bypassing at tidal inlets in a macrotidal environment and the formation of a sandspit with perpendicular hooks. Two closed areas are studied, the Orne and Dives inlets on the coast of Normandy (France). Wave and topographic data, at several space-time scales, are used to study the inlet morphodynamics.The Orne inlet is affected by strong human impacts due to several port facilities whereas the Dives inlet knows a limited anthropogenic impact. The study of the two inlets allows to deduce the impact of the human activities in the sediment transport patterns. The Orne and Dives inlets share the same mechanisms of sediment transport. Both show a major cross-shore component of the transport, underlines by the swash bars migration over the ebb-tidal deltas. All swash bars have similar volumes and migration rates, between 3.5 and 8.0 m/month.The Orne inlet shows deposition on both sides. The accretion on the updrift coast follows the building stages of the harbour of Caen-Ouistreham. On the downdrift coast, the deposition creates the Merville spit, which has several interlocked ridges. A perpendicular hook is present on the distal part of each ridge. This work shows that the swash bar attachment at the shoreline shapes a new ridge. Wave diffraction around the distal part of the swash bars and ridges, and the local wave directions, explain the formation of perpendicular hooks.

Cette thèse porte sur une étude de la morphologie et des processus morphosédimentaires qui régissent la formation, la dynamique et l'évolution des flèches littorales sableuses caractéristiques de la côte sous dominance de la houle du Sénégal. Elle insiste sur la singularité de la côte sénégalaise à fort développement de flèches par rapport aux littoraux d'Afrique de l'Ouest à cordons massifs. Ces flèches sont construites par la dérive littorale mais l'on sait très peu de leur dynamique, notamment les apports de sables, leur redistribution par la dérive littorale, les relations entre l’allongement de ces flèches et les écoulements fluviaux et tidaux sur des embouchures fluviaux ou lagunaires déviées par ces formes, et les conditions favorisant leur rupture, aspect très important en aménagement littoral. La thèse, à travers une approche combinant la télédétection, l'expérimentation in situ impliquant des mesures de topométrie à haute résolution et d'hydrodynamique, et la modélisation conceptuelle, distingue des flèches à dérive libre et à dérive entravée et les mécanismes d'allongement continu ou restreint et de courbure de ces flèches. Ces aspects morphodynamiques intègrent aussi la relation entre ces flèches et les embouchures des cours d'eau qu'elles barrent, notamment celle du delta du fleuve Sénégal. Les flèches de la côte sénégalaise jouent un rôle important en matière de protection du littoral et d'aménagement des embouchures, et sont un maillon essentiel du transit de sables le long de cette côte. Les schémas d'aménagement de ces flèches et les embouchures associées doivent mieux intégrer la façon dont ces formes fonctionnent et leurs conditions de rupture. / This thesis is a study of the morphology and morphosedimentary processes that determine the formation, dynamics and evolution of the sand spits characterizing the wave-dominated coast of Senegal. The thesis insists on the singularity of the coast of Senegal, the numerous spits of which provide a contrast with the sandy coasts of West Africa that are characterized by massive beach-ridge complexes. These spits are constructed by longshore drift but little is known of their dynamics, notably sand supply patterns, the way sand is redistributed alongshore, the relationship between these spits and river and tidal flux at the river mouths or lagoon inlets they divert, and the conditions that favour spit breaching, a mechanism that has important implications for coastal management. Using an approach that combines remote sensing, field experiments aimed at acquiring high-resolution topometric and hydrodynamic data, and conceptual models, spits characterized by free drift are distinguished from those with limited elongation, and the mechanisms pertinent to each type and to spit lengthening and recurves are analyzed. These morphodynamic aspects also include a scrutiny of the relationship between these spits and the river mouths they divert, especially that of the Senegal River delta. The spits of the coast of Senegal play an important role in coastal protection and in the management of the river mouths. They are also an essential element in sand drift along this coast. Coastal zone management plans regarding these spits and their associated river mouths need to consider more closely how these spits work and the conditions that can lead to their breaching.