Title: Effect of climbing activity on somatic and fitness characteristics in youth. Objectives: The aim of this thesis was to assess the effect of climbing activity on fitness (upper body strength) and somatic (body composition) changes in youth in real conditions. Methods: We had 91 children participating in this study, who were attending climbing course in the climbing center Praha Ruzyně. Their age was 10,4 ± 3,0 years in average and their climbing ability was on UIAA scale from 4 th to 7 th degree. We detected information about age, climbing experience, and actual climbing performance. Furthermore, we measured height, weight and body composition and we used the tests for measuring upper body strength: hand grip, bent-arm hang and finger hang. Results: Dependence between strength tests (average of three measurements) and climbing level of RP (UIAA) was not statistically confirmed. There was not found the influence of climbed meters to changes in each tests of strength. There was no change in the grip strength test in average, during the exercise intervention. In the bent-arm hang test and the finger hang test, there were significant changes that were not depending on climbing experience of children. Conclusions: In this study was not confirmed any of the above hypotheses. However, it was found...

This master thesis evaluates the nutrition of Czech representation in sport climbing. The main goal is the monitoring of quantitative and qualitative composition of the Czech national team in sport climbing and comparing the results with the average group of climbers. The thesis is divided into two parts. The theoretical part deals with the morphological and functional characteristics of a sports climber. It also discusses the specific nutritional requirements related to this sport. The practical part consists of evaluation of the data, which were obtained on the basis of anthropometric measurement, short questionnaire, and five-day dietary record. Anthropometric measurements compare the body compositions of respondents. The aim of questionnaires is to evaluate the interest of individuals in nutrition and type of climbing training. Dietary records monitor the energy balance and the nutritional composition of the food. Eating records were evaluated in Nutri Pro Expert software. Results from both groups were compared with each other and also with the recommendations for the population. The purpose was to find out whether the nutrition recommendations of the Czech representation were fulfilled and also to describe the main differences in diet between top athletes and the average climbing group. The...

Title: Analysis of strenght training of rock climbers - campusing Objectives: The main objective of this work is to determine time and space characteristic of working muscle chains of upper body during training on campus board and climbing on vertical wall. Comparing basic exercise by measuring EMG signal in combination with cinematographic analysis synchronized with video record, to analyse coordination markers of muscle work in selected area of movement system. Methods: In our thesis we used a method of analysis and a method of comparison. We apllied the method of analysis in research of campusing movement and the method of comparison in comparing the basic climbing movement and basic campusing. Results: It is possible to define campusing as movement in vertical axis, which is executed by three times faster muscle chains activation compared to basic climbing on vertical wall. Movement is realized by upper limbs, by changing positions of one point holding position and two point holding position. In both activities measured muscles are wireing in similar mode, during campusing the musculus pectoralis major and the musculus triceps brachii are faster in start of their activity compared to climbing on vertical wall. Keywords: sport climbing, muscle chains, electromyography, campusing

Title: Movement economy and physiological response during differing climbing speeds in sport climbers. Aims: The work aims to evaluace climbing economy and physiological responses of intermediate and advanced climbers in different climbing speeds. Methodology: 32 climbers (11 advanced men, 11 intermediate men, 10 intermediate women) performed 3 submaximal tests in treadwall at slope of 90ř at speeds 4, 6 and 9 m.min-1 . Each of the tests lasted exactly 4 minutes. Oxygen consumption (VO2), heart rate (HR), ventilation (VE), respiratory ratio (RER) and energy expenditure were monitored. Results: Advanced men reported lower energy expenditure than intermediate men in all climbing speeds (4 m.min-1 : -0,06 kcal.kg-1 , P = 0,007; 6 m.min-1 : -0,06 kcal.kg-1 P = 0,048; 9 m.min-1 : -0,07 kcal.kg-1 P = 0,022). Intermediate women reported only slightly lower energy expenditure than intermediate men (4 m.min-1 : -0,01 kcal.kg-1 P = 0,051; 6 m.min-1 : 0,06 kcal.kg-1 P = 0,091; 9 m.min-1 : -0,03 kcal.kg-1 P = 0,115). Energy expenditure was significantly lower at 4 m.min-1 than at 6 m.min-1 (-9,82 kcal, p = 0,001) and also signicantly lower at 6 m.min-1 than at 9 m.min-1 (-8,3 kcal, p = 0,001). Advanced men reported significantly lower VO2 at speeds 4 a 6 m.min-1 (- 2,2 ml.kg- 1 .min-1, P = 0,022; -3,9 ml.kg-1...

Evidenční list Souhlasím se zapůjčením své diplomové práce ke studijním účelům. Uživatel svým podpisem stvrzuje, že tuto diplomovou práci použil ke studiu a prohlašuje, že ji uvede mezi použitými prameny. Jméno a příjmení: Fakulta / katedra: Datum vypůjčení: Podpis: ______________________________________________________________________ ABSTRAKT Název: Zhodnocení vlivu sportovního lezení na pohybový aparát se zaměřením na bederní páteř Cíle práce: Cílem práce je zhodnotit vliv sportovního lezení na pohybový aparát člověka s užším zaměřením na oblast bederní páteře pomocí předem stanovených testů a vyšetření orientujících se na bederní část axiálního systému u skupiny lezců a nelezců. Dílčím cílem je teoretické zpracování problematiky sportovního lezení, bederní páteře a shrnutí vlivu sportovního lezení na pohybový aparát. Metoda řešení: Nejprve byla provedena rešerše literatury týkající se problematiky sportovního lezení a bederní páteře. Poté byla na skupině dvaceti lezců a kontrolní skupině dvaceti nelezců provedena komparativní studie, během které bylo provedeno funkční vyšetření bederní páteře pomocí PBU ("pressure biofeedback unit") dle konceptu Spinální segmentální stabilizace a vyšetření pohybových stereotypů a zkrácených svalů dle Jandy. Výsledky byly statisticky zhodnoceny pomocí programu Microsoft...

The purpose of this diploma thesis was design and realisation of measuring system, enabling measuring forces between climber´s feet and holds on the climbing wall and using this measu-red values during a training of sport climber. In this thesis there are discovered possibilities about constructing this system and determina-ted basic requirements of measuring. There are also stated principles of application the strain gauges for measuring the tension. Descriptions of developping specific sensors, hardware interface and PC application are also part of this thesis. Constructed system was used for mea-suring climbers and values were analysed by using the application.

Bakgrund: Idag finns en begränsad vetskap hur svenska elitsatsande barn och ungdomar som klättrar upplever smärta i fingrarna eller vilka träningsvanor de har. Detta kan leda till ökad risk av överbelastningsskador. En ökning av stressfrakturer på fingrarnas tillväxtzoner i de yngre åldrarna visar en felaktig utveckling. Fingerträning bör inte förekomma hos barn och ungdomar under 18 år. Syfte: Att kartlägga barn och ungdomars upplevda smärta i fingrarna och deras träningsvanor samt att undersöka samband mellan smärtupplevelse och träningsvanor. Material och metod: Utövarna har fyllt i en enkät gällande smärtupplevelse i fingrarna under 2016. Vidare undersöktes specifik fingerträning och övriga träningsvanor. Deltagarna delades in i ålderskategorier 9-13 år samt 14-19 år och kön. Resultat: Utav 86 deltagare genomförde 63 enkätundersökningen. Majoriteten 68.3 % använde specifika fingerträningsmetoder. Hos pojkar och den äldre ålderskategorin hade 30 % upplevt så mycket smärta i fingrarna att det påverkat deras träning negativt. 79.4 % av deltagarna tar hjälp av tränare. Det fanns ett starkt signifikant positivt samband (r = 0.355) mellan antalpass per vecka och upplevelse av smärta i fingrarna. Det var även en starkt signifikant negativ korrelation (r =-0.450) mellan att ta hjälp av tränare och ålder. Konklusion: Majoriteten av deltagarna använder sig av specifik fingerträning trots rekommendationerna att inte använda detta. Hälften upplever någon forma av smärta i fingrarna. Majoriteten har en tränare, vilken har ansvar för träningen. Tränaren behöver bli bättre på att övervaka individernas träningsvanor och deras fysiska status. Föräldrar, individ och tränaren behöver samarbeta bättre för säkrare träningsformer. / Background: There is limited knowledge of Swedish young elite level climbers and their experienced pain in the fingers and training habits. An increased expose of an overload injuries is at risk. Epiphyseal fractures of fingers growth zones reveals that the sport is developing in an unwanted way. Despite recommendations of specific finger training should not be a part of the training it is still common. Objective: To identify experience of pain in the fingers and training habits and to analyze the relationship between pain perception and exercise habits. Materials and Methods: The examined group filled out a questionnaire retrospective of their experience of pain in the fingers and exercise habits during 2016. The participants were divided into age categories (9-13 years and 14-19 years) and sex. Results: Out of a total 86 participants 63 completed the questionnaire. The majority 68.3 % used specific finger training methods. The boys and the older age group, 30 %, experienced so much pain in the fingers that it affected their training negatively. 79.4 % of participant’s took help from a coach in their training. There was a highly significant positive correlation (r=0.355) between the number of workouts per week and the experience of pain in the fingers. There was also a highly significant negative correlation between the use of trainers and age (r=-0.450). Conclusion: The majority of participants use specific finger exercise despite recommendations not to use it. Furthermore the majority have a coach. The coach is responsible for the training and need to be better of monitoring the individual's exercise habits and their physical status (injuries, strengths, weaknesses). Parents, the climber and their coach need to work better and closer together to increase safer training methods.

Title Influence of dynamic and static warm-up on muscle strength in climbers. Objective The aim of the thesis is to assess the influence of dynamic warm-up with Thera-Band and static stretching on maximal muscle strength and its time parameters of finger flexors in dominant upper extremity in climbers. Methods Eight active climbers participated in this testing (age 32.4 ± 5.5, body weight 69.4 ± 6.5, height 176 ± 6.4). Actual performance RP was according to the French scale ranging 6b to 8a. Probands' measurements proceeded in three different days. After a specific warm-up on "boulder wall" and static stretching and dynamic warm-up with Thera-Band without stretching, there was maximal muscle strength of fingers flexors on dominant (preferred) upper limb measured by using a specific climbing test on hangboard. The second measurement assessed maximal strength of finger flexors muscle and its time parameters while proceeding of the maximum hand-grip using a hand dynamometer. Results In the experiment, none of the hypotheses came to be confirmed. There was no significant influence of static stretching and dynamic warm-up with Thera-Band on maximal muscle strength of finger flexors and the time parameters in climbers. Conclusion Despite the failure to prove the influence of the static stretching and...

Title: Longitudinal monitoring of anthropometric and physiologic characteristic of the elite sport climber. Work objective: The work objective is monitoring and analyzing of general and the specific physical fitness factors by the world knowing climbers from the longtime aspect. Method: In the process of the longtime monitoring was used the laboratory and the field measuring and testing to reach of the determined objectives. The particular factors of the physical fitness where determined according to aerobic fitness tests (step test to "vita maxima"), power condition tests (handgrip dynamometry, bent arm hang, etc), flexibility test and kinesiology study. To complement, understanding and interpretation of some results were used questionnaire with the opened questions. Results: The elite climber (body mass has been increased from 59,3 kg - age 16,8 years to 62,0 kg - age 19.0 years, body height has been increased from 181,9 cm to 183,4 cm., body fat from 5,3 % to 6,7 %). The climbing performance RP has been increased from climbing difficulty 11+ to 12 UIAA; the results reached at the testing of force abilities (bend arm hang has been increased from 100,0 to 122,0 s; finger hang on 2,5 cm ledge slightly has been decreased from 116,6 s to 111,6 s; relative force of the upper limb, reached at mass,...

Title: Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers Objectives: The aim of this study was to determine the effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contraction to failure in rock climbers. Methods: Thirty-two climbers (15 male and 17 female) completed three intermittent trials to failure, on a climbing-specific handgrip dynamometer, on three separate visits to the laboratory. For each visit a different recovery strategy was employed: passive recovery (PAS), cold water immersion at 8 řC (CWI 8) or 15 řC (CWI 15). The force time integral (FTI - time of contraction multiplied by the force of contraction) was determined to assess intermittent performance. The tissue saturation index (TSI) and total haemoglobin (tHb) during isometric contractions from near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) were determined to assess hemodynamic changes. Differences between repeated trials and three recovery protocols, derived parameters NIRS, were assessed using repeated measures ANOVA with Bonferroni corrections. Results: There was no significant difference between conditions after trial one. In response to the PAS recovery condition there was a 10% and 22% decrease in FTI in the second and third trials, respectively. The PAS...