Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Illinois, 1917. / Vita. "Reprinted from the University of Illinois studies in the social sciences, vol. VII, number 4, page 429, without changes in the text." Bibliography: p. 136-139.

This thesis examines the roles played by craft organisations or 'guilds' in medieval urban society through a case study of the tailors of London in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Using the records of the City and of the guilds themselves, including the important early records of the Tailors, this study seeks to answer important questions about the nature of these organisations and the impact which they had upon urban society. Far from being the mere 'agents' of municipal governments, craft guilds often performed important and constructive functions on behalf of the artisans themselves. The first two chapters examine the extent to which voluntarism characterized the activities of many of these associations: the guild of London tailors, though unusual in the scale and scope of its spiritual and charitable provision, embodied widely shared principles of association which were not articulated solely through parish guilds. Subsequent chapters look at the ways in which the Tailors' guild expressed and articulated other concerns of their members and those outside the ruling guild: in the sphere of City politics, for instance, the Tailors came to represent the aspirations of many poorer citizens through their struggle for civic prominence. Likewise, in the sphere of economic regulation, this thesis demonstrates the ways in which the Tailors' guild, among others, was able to introduce flexible and pragmatic policies of enforcement, based upon the shared interests of those inside and outside the decision-making groups. The final section of the thesis then examines more closely the limitations of impressions of economic structures derived purely from guild statutes. First, the nature of apprenticeship and servanthood in medieval London is examined with particular emphasis upon the differing perceptions of these 'life-cycle institutions' by all concerned. Secondly, a systematic analysis of the structure of the tailoring industry in London is carried out and explores the remarkable diversity of economic life in the capital.

Com base em dados etnográficos de pesquisa realizada em alfaiatarias de Curitiba, este trabalho explora as habilidades e técnicas associadas ao processo de confecção de roupas sob medida tratando de compreender como gestos, materiais e instrumentos de trabalho atuam entre si produzindo não apenas roupas, mas também as habilidades dos próprios alfaiates e os corpos de seus respectivos clientes. A reflexão se dedica a investigação dessas práticas como processos de produção de conhecimento e está afinada com as proposições que repensam a relação entre o homem e a matéria. O eixo central da observação segue a sugestão de Tim Ingold (2013) de que o fazer é um processo de correspondência entre o fazedor e material, e não de imposição ou de aplicação de um conhecimento prévio. Sugere-se que, nos engajamentos estabelecidos entre ternos, alfaiates e clientes, aperfeiçoa-se, ao mesmo tempo, o corpo do cliente, que é modelado pela roupa sob medida adquirida, e as capacidades do alfaiate, que são constituídas pela roupa sob medida fornecida e pelas relações que estabelecem a partir da alfaiataria. Pretende-se, ao final, contribuir para o entendimento das transformações recentes deste campo de trabalho, em especial no que diz respeito ao surgimento de novas formas de praticar a alfaiataria. / Based on ethnographic research data from Curitiba\'s tailors, this work explores the skills and techniques associated with the tailoring process, with the goal of understanding to understand how gestures, materials and work tools interact with each other producing not only clothes, but also the tailors themselves and the bodies of their respective clients. Reflection is devoted on the investigation of these practices as processes of knowledge production, and is in tune with the propositions that rethink the relationship between man and matter. The central axis of observation follows the suggestion of Tim Ingold (2013) that doing is a process of correspondence between the maker and material, not imposition or application of prior knowledge. It is suggested that the client\'s body and the tailor\'s capabilities are modeled by tailor-made clothing in the compromises established between suits, tailors and clients. In the end, it is intended to contribute to the understanding of the recent transformations of this field of work, especially with regard to the emergence of new ways of practicing tailoring.

Com base em dados etnográficos de pesquisa realizada em alfaiatarias de Curitiba, este trabalho explora as habilidades e técnicas associadas ao processo de confecção de roupas sob medida tratando de compreender como gestos, materiais e instrumentos de trabalho atuam entre si produzindo não apenas roupas, mas também as habilidades dos próprios alfaiates e os corpos de seus respectivos clientes. A reflexão se dedica a investigação dessas práticas como processos de produção de conhecimento e está afinada com as proposições que repensam a relação entre o homem e a matéria. O eixo central da observação segue a sugestão de Tim Ingold (2013) de que o fazer é um processo de correspondência entre o fazedor e material, e não de imposição ou de aplicação de um conhecimento prévio. Sugere-se que, nos engajamentos estabelecidos entre ternos, alfaiates e clientes, aperfeiçoa-se, ao mesmo tempo, o corpo do cliente, que é modelado pela roupa sob medida adquirida, e as capacidades do alfaiate, que são constituídas pela roupa sob medida fornecida e pelas relações que estabelecem a partir da alfaiataria. Pretende-se, ao final, contribuir para o entendimento das transformações recentes deste campo de trabalho, em especial no que diz respeito ao surgimento de novas formas de praticar a alfaiataria. / Based on ethnographic research data from Curitiba\'s tailors, this work explores the skills and techniques associated with the tailoring process, with the goal of understanding to understand how gestures, materials and work tools interact with each other producing not only clothes, but also the tailors themselves and the bodies of their respective clients. Reflection is devoted on the investigation of these practices as processes of knowledge production, and is in tune with the propositions that rethink the relationship between man and matter. The central axis of observation follows the suggestion of Tim Ingold (2013) that doing is a process of correspondence between the maker and material, not imposition or application of prior knowledge. It is suggested that the client\'s body and the tailor\'s capabilities are modeled by tailor-made clothing in the compromises established between suits, tailors and clients. In the end, it is intended to contribute to the understanding of the recent transformations of this field of work, especially with regard to the emergence of new ways of practicing tailoring.

This thesis presents a method for identifying resonant cultural phenomena and uses it to identify themes in the representations of millers, tailors, and weavers in early modern English proverbs, jests, and ballads. It then examines whether these stereotypes appear in the records of defamation and abusive language from four different contemporary courts. It argues that all three trades were associated with habitual occupational dishonesty, that millers had a reputation for super-sexuality, and that tailors were considered to be poor and inferior to other men. However, it also argues that these stereotypes were conditioned by generic characteristics of proverbs, jests, and ballads and therefore that stereotypes should be assessed within and across different media. Finally, it argues that the dishonesty, super-sexuality, and inferiority associated with millers, tailors, and weavers suggest that perceived moral character played a more important role in the creation of stereotypes than perceived economic or social position, political or religious allegiance, or ethnic or regional background.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Columbia University, 1934. / Vita. Bibliography: p. 299-301.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Columbia University, 1934. / Vita. Bibliography: p. 299-301.

This document is submitted in partial fulfilment for the degree: Master of Architecture (Professional), Faculty of Engineering and the Built Environment, School of Architecture and Planning at the University of the Witwatersrand, Johannesburg, 2016 / This thesis examines a number of issues that exist in Johannesburg across a series of scales, the urban, the architectural and the programmatic intervention. The project, situated between Fordsburg and Newtown, examines the East-West city connections and aims to provide an identity for the lost inbetween fabric of Burghersdorp. The project is made up of four themes, Disconnection, Memory, Textiles and Recycling, within a scope that examines the present based on themes from the past: The city fabric is fragmented, mainly due to city spatial planning and city politics. There is the potential and need to physically stitch or darn city fabrics through urban planning. The project looks at an urban regeneration scheme that incorporates urban devices as the tools used to stitch the street back together. There is potential to darn the programmatic functions in the city, potentially weaving local communities together, and provide a platform for the exchange of knowledge and skills.The thesis also examines the need for buildings as mnemonic aids. Historically, city fabric was erased for the building of the Oriental Plaza. The memories attached to these buildings and spaces were lost. There is a possibility for regenerating a space for memory in the city, re-weaving this forgotten city fabric into a new node and identity for Burghersdorp. The area is defined by the activities of the community that surround it. Textiles are a significant part of defining the area’s identity. A substantial amount of textiles are discarded. Waste is a valuable commodity, evidently seen from the existence of the informal waste collectors. There is an opportunity to connect these communities while closing the loop, a proposal for a circular economy for textiles in the city. / MT2017

Submitted by Renata Lopes (renatasil82@gmail.com) on 2017-11-01T18:22:28Z No. of bitstreams: 1 leticiasilvabatista.pdf: 3595138 bytes, checksum: c9305bda02c2d0d8eb3b0eeae7ae0e86 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Adriana Oliveira (adriana.oliveira@ufjf.edu.br) on 2017-11-09T14:14:18Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 leticiasilvabatista.pdf: 3595138 bytes, checksum: c9305bda02c2d0d8eb3b0eeae7ae0e86 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-11-09T14:14:18Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 leticiasilvabatista.pdf: 3595138 bytes, checksum: c9305bda02c2d0d8eb3b0eeae7ae0e86 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-08-30 / No segundo quartel do século XVIII, a Câmara de Mariana convocava, semestralmente, oficiais mecânicos para tirarem as suas licenças mercantis e, por conseguinte, regularizarem o exercício das suas especialidades manuais pelo vasto Termo de Mariana. Entre os anos de 1735 e 1750, a alfaiataria e os alfaiates foram o ofício e os oficiais mecânicos que mais pleitearam esse tipo de permissão frente ao senado camarário de Mariana. Notoriedade tal que motivou o presente estudo dissertativo intitulado Usando desse ofício de alfaiate: A alfaiataria e os alfaiates do Termo de Mariana (1735 – 1750). A sistematização e a análise dessa fonte permitiram a elaboração de uma lista nominativa de 323 alfaiates que buscaram, entre os anos de 1735 e 1750, uma ou mais licenças mercantis para exercerem, em limitadas paragens do Termo de Mariana, o labor especializado da alfaiataria. Diante disso, o intuito foi compreender o universo laboral dessa especialidade mecânica e dos seus agentes em restrito tempo e espaço a partir dessa fonte de origem camarária. Em suma, foram sujeitos históricos qualificados no ofício das roupas que atuaram numa conjuntura socioeconômica multifacetada e vivaz, na qual vestiram as necessidades ordinárias e luxuosas de uma sociedade das distinções e das aparências. / For each semester in the second quarter of Eighteenth century, the City Council of Mariana had been summoning craftsmen to get their mercantile licenses, regulating their manual specialties due the extensive Termo de Mariana. Between the years of 1735 and 1750, the tailoring and tailors were the most license pleading craft and artisans in the City Council of Mariana. Such notoriety has motivated the present dissertation entitled Using the tailor’s craft: The tailoring and the tailors of the Termo de Mariana (1735 – 1750). The systematization and analysis of this source have allowed the elaboration of a nominative list containing 323 tailors who requested one or more mercantile licenses between the years of 1735 and 1750 in order to exercise craft specialized in tailoring at some places of the Termo de Mariana. Based on that, the present dissertation seeks to comprehend the labor universe of this mechanical specialty and its agents in a restrict time-space analysis by taking data from City Council documents. Altogether, the tailors were historical subjects qualified in crafting clothes, acting upon a vivacious and multifaceted socioeconomic conjecture, in which they wore the ordinary and luxurious necessities of a society of distinctions and appearances.

This thesis tells the stories of five Oregon women who transcended the customary roles of their era. Active during the waning years of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth century, each woman made a difference in the world around them. Their stories have either not been told or just given a passing glance. These tales are important because they inform us about our society on the cusp of the twentieth century. Hattie Crawford Redmond was the daughter of a freed slave who devoted herself to the fight for women's suffrage. Minnie Mossman Hill was the first woman steamboat pilot west of the Mississippi. Mary Francis Isom was a local librarian who went to France to deliver books to American soldiers. Ann and May Shogren were sisters who brought high fashion to Portland and defied the gender and social rules in both their business and personal lives. These women were not the only ones who accomplished extraordinary things during their lives. They are a tiny sample of Oregon women who pushed beyond discrimination, hardship and gender limits to earn their place in Oregon's history.