Thesis (Ph. D.)--Columbia University. / Title from electronic title page (viewed Aug. 26, 2002). This electronic edition is part of the UNC-CH digitization project's database, Documenting the American South. It is a part of the collection The North Carolina experience, beginnings to 1940. Text scanned (OCR) by Apex Data Services, Inc. Images scanned by Tammy Evans. Text encoded by Apex Data Services, Inc., Melissa Meeks and Natalia Smith. Includes bibliographical references.

Crisis of water pollution in Yangtze River Delta Nowadays, more and more incidents that is regarding the pollution of blue-green algae are reported to the public by media, and the water pollution becomes worse and worse, even in some area which has large amount of population, there is happening with the shortage of water because of the poor water quality. Exploring the culprit, the undue development of industrialization is one of the important factor. Especially in Yangtze River Delta, what the most serious water pollution causer is the textile industry, in the meantime, it is one of the pillar industry in Yangtze River Delta. However how to balance the environmental aspect with the textile industry would be the challenge for us as well as local government. So in this thesis, taking Hangzhou as an example to really figure out the way of integration environment, textile industry and inhabitant in rural area, mainly constructing water treatment system after biochemical treatment in textile mills for degradation of toxic substance involve in waste water, and try to reutilize on-site component such as abandoned channel, fishponds, farmland and demolished poor textile mills, transforming them into components of water treatment system, phytoremediation are introduced to help treatment system, providing an opportunity to integrate these three parts, and improving life quality of textile industrial gathering zone in Hangzhou. / published_or_final_version / Architecture / Master / Master of Landscape Architecture

Magistro darbo tikslas yra apžvelgus prekybos pramonės šakos produkcija teoriją, išanalizuoti Kinijos prekybos poveikį Lietuvos tekstilės pramonei. Pirmoje darbo dalyje pateikiama prekybos pramonės šakos viduje teorija, jos atsiradimo priežastys, palyginimas su prekyba tarp skirtingų pramonės šakų. Aprašomas prekybos pramonės šakos viduje skaičiavimas. Analizuojama pastarosios prekybos nauda. Antrojoje darbo dalyje analizuojamas staigus Kinijos ekonominis atsigavimas, vertinama Kinijos prekyba su pasauliu. Apžvelgiamas Kinijos prekybos poveikis Europos Sąjungos tekstilės ir aprangos sektoriui po pasaulinio kvotų panaikinimo 2005 metais. Pateikiami tekstilės importo iš Kinijos, kaip problemos, galimi sprendimo būdai. Trečiojoje magistro darbo dalyje pirmiausiai pateikiama Lietuvos-Kinijos prekyba (jos mastai, struktūra). Toliau analizuojamas Kinijos prekybos tekstile poveikis Lietuvos tekstilės pramonei. Atliekami prekybos pramonės šakos viduje skaičiavimai. Vertinamas tekstilės importo iš Kinijos poveikis Lietuvos bendrai šio sektoriaus gamybai bei užimtumui. Galiausiai darbe pateikiami apibendrinti atlikto tyrimo „Kiniškos tekstilės vertinimas Lietuvoje“ rezultatai. / The goal of the Master's thesis is to review the theory of intra-industry trade and analyse the influence of Chinese trade on Lithuanian textile industry. The first part of the work presents the theory of intra-industry trade, causes for its appearance, comparison with trade between industries. Calculation of intra-industry trade is described. The benefit of the latter is analysed. The second part of the paper includes an analysis of the sudden economical recovery of China, Chinese trade with the world is estimated. Next, an overview of the influence of Chinese trade on the European Union textile and clothing industry after the lifting of global quotas in 2005 is presented. Possible solutions to problem of textile import from China are provided. The third part of the Master's thesis primarily delivers information on Lithuanian-Chinese trade (its scope, structure). The influence of Chinese textile trade is further analysed. Calculations of intra-industry trade are carried out. Influence of textiles import from China to production and employment within this field in Lithuania is assessed. Finally, the paper presents summarized results of a research „Evaluation of Chinese textile in Lithuania“.

This dissertation describes the characterisation of, and development of a novel integrated waste management strategy for, hydroxide scouring effluents produced during cotton processing. Such effluents are typical of mineral salt-rich waste waters which are not significantly biodegradable in conventional treatment plants. The proposed strategy focuses on two complementary concepts: process-oriented waste minimisation adopts a systematic approach to identifying potential problems and solutions of waste reduction in the manufacturing process itself; while add-on controls reduce the impact of the waste after it has been generated, by recycling and treatment. The basic procedures for ensuring effective water and chemical management within the scouring process are described. Examples are given of factory surveys, which have resulted in significant chemical and water savings, reduced effluent discharge costs, maximum effluent concentration, and minimum pollutant loading and volume. Pilot-plant investigations demonstrate the technical and economic feasibility of a four stage treatment sequence of neutralisation (using carbon dioxide gas), cross-flow microfiltration, nanofiltration and electrochemical recovery to remove colour and impurities from the scouring effluent and produce directly reusable sodium hydroxide and water. Fouling and scaling of the cross-flow microfiltration, nanofiltration and electrochemical membranes are minimal and reversible if the operation is carried out under carefully selected conditions. A long anode coating life is predicted. Current efficiencies for the recovery of sodium hydroxide (up to 20 % concentration) are 70 to 80 % and the electrical power requirements are 3 500 to 4 000 kWh/tonne of 100 % NaOH. Pilot-plant trials are supplemented by extensive laboratory tests and semi-quantitative modelling to examine specific aspects of the nanofiltration and electrochemical stages in detail. Electromembrane fouling and cleaning techniques, and other anode materials are evaluated. The effects of solution speciation chemistry on the performance of the nanofiltration membrane is evaluated using a combination of speciation and membrane transport modelling and the predicted results are used to explain observed behaviour. Based on the results of pilot-plant trials and supplementary laboratory and theoretical work, a detailed design of an electrochemically-based treatment system and an economic analysis of the electrochemical recovery system are presented. The effects of rinsing variables, processing temperatures, and background rinse water concentrations on the plant size requirements and capital costs are determined. The implementation of the waste management concepts presented in this dissertation will have significant impact on water and sodium hydroxide consumption (decreasing these by up to 95 and 75 % respectively), as well as effluent volumes and pollutant loadings. / Thesis (Ph.D.)-University of Natal, Durban, 1994.

As a developing country South Africa is faced with mammoth tasks of both creating employment/jobs that require less skill to be able to absorb millions of job-seekers who are less skilled, as well as putting its economy in proper footing, through investment in continuous labor skills and technological upgrading, so as to compete in the global market characterized by trade liberalization. Unfortunately the 20th century trade liberalization drive caught domestic industry off-guard. Domestic industry was found wanting and job losses tide was triggered. The labor-intensive clothing and textile industry was severely affected. The most vulnerable sections of the society (unskilled/semi-skilled and women laborers) were dealt a terrible blow. The government developed an industrial policy that contained sector-specific intervention measures to rescue the sector. Initially, the clothing and textile sector benefited from export promotion drive expedited through General Export Incentive Scheme and Duty Credit Certificate Scheme. Later on, the government introduced the Clothing and Textile Competitiveness Improvement Program which intended to build domestic production capacity of the sector and make the sector globally competitive. This research intended to conduct a critical analysis of the South African government industrial policy and its impact on the domestic clothing and textile sector from the period 1993 to 2010. On the one hand evidence on the ground indicates that General Export Incentive Scheme and Duty Credit Certificate Scheme failed to salvage the sector through building its competitiveness and strengthen its employment creation potential. On the other hand, while the Clothing and Textile Competitiveness Improvement Program’s positive contribution towards addressing crucial challenges facing the clothing and textile sector is acknowledged, the evidence on the ground also demonstrated that some crucial pitfalls need to be addressed to enable the sector to become globally competitive and to realize its employment potential. / Thesis (M.Dev.Studies)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, Durban, 2012.

International business is much more complicated than domestic business because countries differ in many ways. Countries have different political systems economic systems. Cultural practices can vary dramatically from country to country, as the education and skill level of the population, and countries are at different stages of economic development. Moreover, development of multinational strategies involves consideration of threats, opportunities, key success factors, and strategy options and issues that do not appear when the analysis is restricted to operations within a single country. In particular, the evaluation of a market must take into account the political and economic risks associated with individual countries. Thus the external analysis becomes much more demanding. South Africa's trade and industrial policy has moved away from a highly protected, inward-looking economy towards an internationally competitive system that is able to capitalize on its comparative advantages. Enhancement of the competitiveness of industries on the domestic and international markets has consequently become a prime focus of the country's industrial policy. International trade in textiles and clothing is conducted on an immense scale. Textile and clothing producers were responsible for 9.3 per cent of world exports of manufacturers in 2001. Barriers to entry for new firms and exporters are low, and consequently the degree of international competition is intense. Competitive advantage is very difficult to sustain for long periods of time. Newcomers speedily challenge successful exporters of basic products, and they must redirect their activities towards the production of higher value-added textiles and clothing in order to survive and prosper. As a world's fifth largest trading power, China economy expands promptly through their expert skills on technology, management, and labour-intensive products. Today, China represents between 5 to 10% of global output, their export market will continue to grow rapidly, and not only for their labour intensive products, but also for the higher technology goods and services that are an increasing proportion of China's output as it climbs up the production ladder. Textile industry represents a main role towards China's economy. However, due to the fast-moving pace of globalisation, it has increased the maturity on the product-life cycle of the industry. Multi-national organizations from China have a choice to extend their global reach, due to the government export incentive programme, the maturity companies can diversify their firms to emerging market in order to exploit their technological advantages and invest internationally . If firm's primary goal is to maximize their shareholder's value, then they and probably the economy are better off if they invest where they can earn the best return. As they do so, change in the global macro-environment further confounds the choices inherent in building a strategic organization. Some understanding of the organization's external and internal environment always drives strategy, as an international organizational better choice. In the most general sense, the long-run monetary benefits of doing business in South Africa are a function of the size of the textile and clothing market, the present wealth (purchasing power) of consumers in the market, and the likely future wealth of consumers. Also the Chinese's multi national companies can have the opportunity to gain export market in USA, Canada, Europe and other trade countries in South Africa. In order to achieve economic growth and competitiveness in South Africa, it is recommend that the several issues cutting across the textile industrial sector need to be addressed through knowledge transfer, training, investment and management. Develop innovative technologies to strengthen the competitiveness. / Thesis (MBA)-University of Natal, Durban, 2002.

At present, raw aqueous textile effluent produced by textile mills in Hammarsdale, KwaZulu- Natal is reticulated voluntarily to the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works owned by the eThekwini Municipality and operated by Ethekwini Water and Sanitation. Thereafter the treated effluent is discharged into the Sterkspruit River which flows into the Shongweni impoundment. The cost to these textile mills of treating this effluent is calculated using a trade tariff formula administered by Ethekwini Water and Sanitation. In principle this arrangement is governed as follows; • in the case of the textile mills, by Sewage Disposal Bylaws set by Ethekwini Water and Sanitation, and • in the case of Ethekwini Water and Sanitation by a licence issued by the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry in terms of the National Water Act 36 of 1998. This Act prescribes a General Effluent Standard which specifies the quantity, quality and temperature of treated effluent which may enter a defined water resource such as the Sterkspruit River. In practice however, the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works is not licensed by the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry and operates temporarily according to an Exemption Permit issued to Umgeni Water who owned and operated the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works until 2003. It is thus incumbent upon Ethekwini Water and Sanitation to obtain a licence from the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry in order to comply with the requirements of the National Water Act and be allowed to operate the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works on a permanent basis. However, because of design limitations, the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works cannot remove the visible colour continuously and reliably from incoming raw textile effluent. The consequence of this is that the Sterkspruit River is often contaminated by coloured discharges from the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works. In terms of the National Water Act this situation is illegal and must be remedied. The approach adopted by Ethekwini Water and Sanitation has been to amend the Sewage Disposal Bylaws to oblige the textile mills (by the use of permits), by certain dates, to remove all, or most of the colour (to specified levels according to the test method used) from their effluent before it will be admitted to the Hammarsdale Wastewater Works for disposal. The costs of compliance will have to be borne by the individual textile mills. This business case study explores the impact of this obligation on the business of Textile Mill A and examines solutions to the problem. After a review of the efforts of that company to conform with the concept of Cleaner Production, it was decided to perform an end-of-pipe effluent treatment trial using a skid mounted pilot-plant utilising an adsorption and flocculation mechanism followed by cold soda ash softening, 'polishing' through a column of granular activated carbon and the removal of calcium and magnesium through a cation exchange softening column. The results obtained were; • that the permit requirements of Ethekwini Water and Sanitation could be met, • that a financial 'break-even' point could be achieved at the start of the project in 2005 should 43% of the treated effluent be recovered for reuse, • that a realistic rate of water recovery would be 50% resulting in a positive contribution in present day terms (2004) of R65 000 in 2005 increasing to Rl 377 000 in 2014, • that this rate of recovery could be increased should a demineraliser be introduced into the treatment train, and • that the project could be financed by a vendor on a Build, Own, Operate and Transfer basis with transfer of ownership to Textile Mill A occurring after 5 years. The results of that trial showed that end-of-pipe effluent treatment is a viable option, technically and commercially, for Textile Mill A considering the current inclement trading conditions being experienced by the South African textile industry. It is also a means of assisting Ethekwini Water and Sanitation to comply with the requirements of the National Water Act. / Thesis (M.B.A.)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, Pietermaritzburg, 2004.

The eighteenth century witnessed the expansion of rural industries. One of the more important was the production of linen cloth in the North of France. This study focuses on a village in southeastern Cambresis, Montigny, and examines the relationship between landownership and agricultural occupations on the one hand and artisanal and mercantile activities on the other. Weaving was introduced in the village some time in the seventeenth century but only became a major occupation in the eighteenth and the primary one in the nineteenth. This activity was controlled through numerous parallel channels, but the emergence of rural middlemen constitutes a dynamic breakthrough. They flourished despite constraints until the Revolution which re-channeled some of their energies. Although dependent on a supplementary income, the peasant-weavers did not sever their roots with the land. They continued to work as seasonal agricultural labourers, and were fully integrated within the agrarian community.

Title: Conscious purchasing - Securing the purchasing process in the apparel industry Authors: Jakob Bank, Emma Sjödoff and Helena Zebergs Tutor: Roger Stokkedal Examiner: Helena Forslund Background: There has been several scandals within the apparel industry and due to this brand owners of apparel companies has started to offer their customers’ alternative products, which has been manufactured in a more conscious and sustainable way. The purchasing process has thereby become more complex including multiple criteria such as social and environmental considerations which have to be fulfilled by their suppliers. Purpose: To describe how Swedish brand owners of apparel companies select their supplier for their conscious collections, which sustainability policies they include in contracts with their selected suppliers and how they evaluate these suppliers in regard to the brand owners’ policy on sustainability. Method: This thesis was conducted using qualitative semi-structured interviews and a deductive approach. Several sampling methods was used which led to the involved companies who were interviewed through both structured as well as semi-structured interviews. Conclusion: Swedish brand owners of apparel companies select their suppliers based on how well they fulfil their demands, and if there is a possibility to establish a long term relationship. They include different sustainability policies in their contracts, but all suppliers need to approve the brand owners CoC as well as use organic cotton. The evaluation visits are conducted, but the evaluation responsible, how often it takes place and the duration of the visit depends on the brand owner.

The importance of automating the garment manufacturing process has been understood since the early 1980s. However, in spite of millions of dollars spent on research, three decades later, the industry is still far from achieving a fully autonomous process. Previous work on fabric control in automated sewing focused on the control of only a single sheet of fabric using an industrial manipulator with an overhead vision system. These methods did not meet the accuracy and robustness requirements of the sewing process with respect to fabric position and fabric tension. To address these issues, a new method for fabric control in automated sewing is described. It uses the current feed mechanism on sewing machines, feed dogs, but modifies them to be servo-controlled. These servo controlled actuators, servo dogs, individually control two sheets of fabric before the fabric reaches the needle and during the sewing process. The servo dogs actuate the fabric 180o out of phase with the sewing needle, providing incremental control of the fabric when the needle is out of the fabric. To achieve this type of control successfully for automated sewing, the servo dogs have been designed for short displacement, high acceleration motions using a cable drive system powered by voice coil motors. Feedback of fabric position has been determined to be necessary and is to be provided by a thread-tracking vision system. This thesis outlines the general design of the system and discusses a prototype used to validate the design, and describes experiments performed to examine how the fabric will behave with the use of this type of actuation method.