<p>The apparel design process involves gathering and analyzing information on fashion trends, markets, past line sales and editing ideas for successful combinations of fabric, style and price. These ideas are the result of creativity. Creativity is most often modeled as a problem solving process involving complex chaotic systems. In the fields of architecture and software design, pattern languages have been developed to help understand the various fundamental components and dynamics of complex systems by using a series of related generic problem-solving patterns empirically proven to be successful in a specified context of forces. Patterns record existing knowledge to make it rapidly and easily accessible and communicated between different users. The research objective of this dissertation was to develop a pattern language describing the initial creative phase of the apparel design process. First, an archetype of the initial creative process in apparel design was constructed based on the literature reviewed to integrate the intervening marketing and design components, and suggest a set of links between these components and the various stages of the process. Second, patterns describing these links and the archetype were developed to form a pattern language representing the dynamics of the archetypal model, i.e. the articulation and interdependencies of all its components and stages. Design professionals reviewed the pattern language. Students used it to develop product concepts and storyboards, which were evaluated by a panel of judges. Feedback from these participants indicates the pattern language offers a "design manual" that can be used by all team members to improve design efficiency and effectiveness, i.e. higher success rates of new products in a timely manner. Combining information technology and the pattern language could make an even greater contribution to apparel design, both at an operational level and a strategic planning level. This research provides a working example of a pattern language and shows the benefits to be attained. Also, the dissertation includes a guide on constructing pattern languages in the hope of reaching the ultimate goal of encouraging industry and academic apparel design experts to contribute to the necessary ongoing developments of the pattern language. <P>

<p>The purpose of this research has been to examine possible factors which effect yarn production and prices in the U.S.The research approach first involved gathering the data from different sources about yarn production and prices. Second, data was gathered about the different factors which could have an effect on these. These factors included enduse demand, cotton consumption, the effect of spinning systems, labor cost and demand, machinery hours and shipments, and the level of imports and exports. Third, the data was compared and conclusions were made based solely on the obvious trends in the data. Fourth, current situations in the textile market were examined in order to conclude if any have had an effect on yarn production and price. The main issues which are facing the textile industry and were included in this analysis were NAFTA, CBI, Asia and the WTO. The effect that these have had and will have on the spinning industry was examined in detail. Fifth, a statistical analysis was conducted. The analysis included the use of a correlation matrix for both yarn production levels and yarn prices in order to see which factors statistically had the strongest impact on these. Overall, this research offers a view into the inside of the U.S. spinning industry, including the dynamics which effect final yarn production levels and yarn prices, as well as situations which will have an impact on the future of the spinning industry.<P>

<p>LEE, EUN-KYUNG. Creation of Casual Index Based on Habit Stocks and General Social Behaviors. (Under the direction of Dr. Moon W. Suh and Dr. William Oxenham.)A fashion preference indicator called "Casual Index" was created to signify and measure the degree of casualness at any given time point by using various statistical and econometrics models. The indices were created based on two approaches; one for theoretically constructed and the other for practical application. The theory-based Casual Index is a composite index formulated from two sub-indices that were derived from the general social behaviors and apparel demand patterns of contemporary Americans. The consumption-based Casual Index is also a composite index aimed at practical application, derived from consumption data on certain apparel items. In addition, the Total Casual Index was created by combining the consumption-based Casual Indices of men and women based on unit volumes of apparel consumption. In deriving the various casual indices, the General Social Survey data from National Opinion Research Center (University of Chicago) and the Current Industrial Report MQ23A of U.S. Bureau of Census from 1972 through 1998 were applied. For the first time, the behavioral patterns of the society and the habit formation by consumers were combined in creating and successfully validating theoretically formulated Casual Index. The statistical methods applied were proven to be highly effective. The consumption-based Casual Index was shown to be most useful for practical applications as well as for forecasting for the future casual trends. Although somewhat subjective in the formulation, the newly created Total Casual Index is expected to enhance its utility in the absence of complex data and mathematical models. The casual indices derived for both men and women suggest that the casual trends have shifted dynamically during the last three decades. Based on the Total Casual Index, the 1998 figure (75.7) is shown to be higher than that of 1972 (63.7). <P>

Thesis (M.S.)--Lehigh University, 2009. / Adviser: Herman F. Nied.

The room temperature morphology of quench-cooled isotactic polypropylene (iPP) films and its development were investigated by scanning transmittance electron microscopy (STEM) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). STEM dark field images revealed that within an amorphous matrix there exist microcrystalline regions, 160 A in size on the average, having the $ alpha$-monoclinic crystal form. Regions of lower crystalline order were also observed which have an $ alpha$-monoclinic crystal form that has a substantially longer b crystallographic axis. DSC studies indicate that during quench-cooling to the glassy state iPP samples attain a low degree of crystalline order to an extent that depends on sample mass. Upon heating from the glassy state, an exothermic transition is observed following the glass transition temperature which corresponds to the formation of the room temperature morphology. / Cross polarization/magic angle spinning (CP/MAS) nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy was used to monitor morphological changes in the purely crystalline phase of quench-cooled iPP films and spunbonded fabrics during annealing. The spectra were obtained using a pulse sequence that incorporates a delay period with a reduced spin locking field prior to cross polarization. Morphological changes occurring within the purely crystalline phase of iPP were related to observations made by DSC. Upon annealing, the CP/MAS NMR spectrum of the purely crystalline phase of both iPP samples changed by a redistribution in the intensity of the various peaks within a given carbon resonance. This redistribution of intensity was found to reflect the conversion from the $ alpha sb1$ to the $ alpha sb2$ monoclinic crystal forms. It is shown that the double melting endotherm observed by DSC for the spunbonded fabrics is due to the exothermicity which is associated with this conversion. It is concentrated in the temperature region between 156 and 163$ sp circ$C. / The tensile properties of the spunbonded iPP fabrics and fibers were enhanced by the dispersion of a silica/silicone additive and by changing the resin characteristics. This additive acts as a nucleating agent for iPP under isothermal crystallization conditions. This nucleating ability manifests itself in smaller crystal sizes and higher nucleation densities in the iPP fibers and bond points. The improved tensile properties are attributed to the smaller crystal sizes which form a more homogeneously dispersed crystalline phase in the amorphous phase as well as to increase the number of load-bearing tie molecules.

No description available.

The research described in this thesis deals with the use ofcement-based carbon fibre reinforced composites forstrengthening of existing structural concrete. There is a large world-wide need for simple and reliablemethods to repair and strengthen aging infrastructure andbuildings. The use of cementitious fi- bre composites offersseveral advantages over the existing methods. No other work onstrengthening of structural concrete with cementitiouscomposites reinforced with continuous high strength fibres wasidentified when the present work started in 1998. At presenttime, 2003, it still is a new technique and very littleresearch has been internationally reported. This work includesa literature survey describing the state of the art of thestrengthening of structural concrete with cement based fibrereinforced composites. Due to the novelty of this technique no specially adaptedmaterials are available and ready for use in cementitiouscomposites. In order to make many small scale tests to optimizethe composite, a new test beam has been developed. Severalparameter studies have been done in this work to determine howdifferent parameters, for example fineness of grading of thecement, additives, and fibre configuration affect thecomposite. Large scale tests of ordinary concrete beams strengthenedwith a cementitious fibre composite are reported. The compositeused was made of a polymer modified mortar and a unidirectionalsheet of continuous carbon fibres, applied by hand. Bothflexural strengthening and shear strengthening were tested. Arelatively new method for measuring strains with digitalcameras was used on the shear strengthenings with a goodresult. It is concluded that the large scale tests have proventhat this method works and has great potential for futureuse. Design methods for strengthenings were studied andevaluated. It is concluded that design methods formulated forstrengthening of structural concrete with carbon fibrereinforced polymers can be adapted also to cementitiouscomposites by introducing an efficiency factor.

<p>The research described in this thesis deals with the use ofcement-based carbon fibre reinforced composites forstrengthening of existing structural concrete.</p><p>There is a large world-wide need for simple and reliablemethods to repair and strengthen aging infrastructure andbuildings. The use of cementitious fi- bre composites offersseveral advantages over the existing methods. No other work onstrengthening of structural concrete with cementitiouscomposites reinforced with continuous high strength fibres wasidentified when the present work started in 1998. At presenttime, 2003, it still is a new technique and very littleresearch has been internationally reported. This work includesa literature survey describing the state of the art of thestrengthening of structural concrete with cement based fibrereinforced composites.</p><p>Due to the novelty of this technique no specially adaptedmaterials are available and ready for use in cementitiouscomposites. In order to make many small scale tests to optimizethe composite, a new test beam has been developed. Severalparameter studies have been done in this work to determine howdifferent parameters, for example fineness of grading of thecement, additives, and fibre configuration affect thecomposite.</p><p>Large scale tests of ordinary concrete beams strengthenedwith a cementitious fibre composite are reported. The compositeused was made of a polymer modified mortar and a unidirectionalsheet of continuous carbon fibres, applied by hand. Bothflexural strengthening and shear strengthening were tested. Arelatively new method for measuring strains with digitalcameras was used on the shear strengthenings with a goodresult. It is concluded that the large scale tests have proventhat this method works and has great potential for futureuse.</p><p>Design methods for strengthenings were studied andevaluated. It is concluded that design methods formulated forstrengthening of structural concrete with carbon fibrereinforced polymers can be adapted also to cementitiouscomposites by introducing an efficiency factor.</p>

<p> People retain objects that bear emotional significance; this is, essentially, the fetishization of an object; an attachment to, or a desire for something inanimate. The names for these objects include heirloom, memento, souvenir, antique and relic. These objects bear the burden of nostalgia for the past; they represent a moment that is no longer the present.</p><p> I used the printmaking process of etching to make line-based drawings of objects that reflected or conjured the ideas of longing and desire. After printing the image multiple times, I waxed, cut and sewed together the many forms to create larger works. While I found the concept of nostalgia and longing to be romanticized, I found that I could overcome my attachment to certain items I own. It was through my art making process that I explore the connections between objects, narrative, nostalgia and desire.</p>

Master of Science / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Sherry J. Haar / The recent green movement has created strong interest in sustainable practices in the apparel and textile industry. Accordingly, natural dye usage has increased in popularity over the recent years, as well as alternative fiber sources such as bamboo. Because of the inherently poorer fastness properties of natural dyes compared to synthetic dyes, additional research on natural dyes and mordant agents is necessary to obtain the best colorfastness results. Many salts, called mordants, are used to help affix natural dyes to fabrics, called mordants, but the most common is potassium aluminum sulfate. However, it has been suggested that aluminum acetate can be a substitute, if not a better mordant than potassium aluminum sulfate for cellulose fibers. This study compared the colorfastness of these two mordants in three different amounts including 5%, 10%, and 20% per weight of fiber (WOF). Three natural dye extracts (madder, weld, and coreopsis), were used to dye seven test fabrics, including a bamboo rayon jersey, two bamboo rayon woven fabrics, a cotton interlock knit, two woven cottons, and a bamboo rayon and cotton blend interlock knit. Lightfastness and colorfastness to laundering tests were conducted, and Gray Scale ratings were analyzed using ANOVA statistical analysis. This analysis showed significant four-way interaction between all variables. Results supported aluminum acetate as a more colorfast mordant for cellulose fibers. This research was supported in part by Agricultural Research Experiment Station at the Kansas State University.