Master of Science / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Sherry J. Haar / The recent green movement has created strong interest in sustainable practices in the apparel and textile industry. Accordingly, natural dye usage has increased in popularity over the recent years, as well as alternative fiber sources such as bamboo. Because of the inherently poorer fastness properties of natural dyes compared to synthetic dyes, additional research on natural dyes and mordant agents is necessary to obtain the best colorfastness results. Many salts, called mordants, are used to help affix natural dyes to fabrics, called mordants, but the most common is potassium aluminum sulfate. However, it has been suggested that aluminum acetate can be a substitute, if not a better mordant than potassium aluminum sulfate for cellulose fibers. This study compared the colorfastness of these two mordants in three different amounts including 5%, 10%, and 20% per weight of fiber (WOF). Three natural dye extracts (madder, weld, and coreopsis), were used to dye seven test fabrics, including a bamboo rayon jersey, two bamboo rayon woven fabrics, a cotton interlock knit, two woven cottons, and a bamboo rayon and cotton blend interlock knit. Lightfastness and colorfastness to laundering tests were conducted, and Gray Scale ratings were analyzed using ANOVA statistical analysis. This analysis showed significant four-way interaction between all variables. Results supported aluminum acetate as a more colorfast mordant for cellulose fibers. This research was supported in part by Agricultural Research Experiment Station at the Kansas State University.

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O trabalho buscou identificar se o intemperismo acelerado Xênon, utilizando a norma ASTM D4452-12, em corantes naturais encapsulados em matriz de sílica pelo processo sol gel com o uso de alcóxidos, conforme descrito pela patente INPI BR 10 2013 0219835, e injetadas em matriz de policloreto de polivinila (PVC) preservam as características de cor original dos corantes. Utilizou-se comparação dos mesmos corantes naturais – carmim, curcuma, índigo e urucum – sem encapsulamento e com encapsulamento, e injetados na mesma matriz de PVC. Executou-se a determinação da variação da cor antes do ensaio de intemperismo e após 126 h, 252 h, 378 h e 504 h em câmara de intemperismo Xênon utilizando-se a norma ASTM D4459-12. Utilizou-se o corante Tartrazina (INS 102) um azo corante sem encapsulamento como comparação do comportamento dos corantes naturais com um corante sintético. Os resultados indicam que não houve proteção da perda da coloração para os corantes naturais encapsulados, sendo a perda de coloração mais acentuada que os não encapsulados. Concluiu-se que é necessário executar alguns cuidados nas fases de encapsulamento dos corantes naturais como: uma dispersão cuidadosa dos corantes naturais e inclusão de um processo de repetição do encapsulamento do xerogel. / The study aimed to identify the Xenon accelerated weathering, using ASTM D4452-12 standards, of natural dyes encapsulated in the silica matrix by the sol-gel process with the use of alkoxides as described by the patent INPI BR 10 2013 0219835, and injected into matrix of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) preserve characteristics of original color of the dye. We used to compare the same natural colors - carmine, turmeric, indigo and annatto - without encapsulation and with encapsulation, and injected into the same matrix of PVC. Performed to determine the change in color before the weathering test after 126 h, 252 h, 378 h and 504 h in Xenon weathering chamber using ASTM D4459- 12 standards. We used the dye Tartrazine (INS 102) an azo dye without encapsulation as a comparison of the behavior of natural dyes with a synthetic dye. The results indicate that there was no protection of natural dyes encapsulated, with the loss of saturation more severe than the non-encapsulated natural dyes. It follows that some care needs to perform the encapsulation stages of natural dyes as a careful dispersion of natural colorants includes a process of repeat the encapsulation of the xerogel.

O trabalho buscou identificar se o intemperismo acelerado Xênon, utilizando a norma ASTM D4452-12, em corantes naturais encapsulados em matriz de sílica pelo processo sol gel com o uso de alcóxidos, conforme descrito pela patente INPI BR 10 2013 0219835, e injetadas em matriz de policloreto de polivinila (PVC) preservam as características de cor original dos corantes. Utilizou-se comparação dos mesmos corantes naturais – carmim, curcuma, índigo e urucum – sem encapsulamento e com encapsulamento, e injetados na mesma matriz de PVC. Executou-se a determinação da variação da cor antes do ensaio de intemperismo e após 126 h, 252 h, 378 h e 504 h em câmara de intemperismo Xênon utilizando-se a norma ASTM D4459-12. Utilizou-se o corante Tartrazina (INS 102) um azo corante sem encapsulamento como comparação do comportamento dos corantes naturais com um corante sintético. Os resultados indicam que não houve proteção da perda da coloração para os corantes naturais encapsulados, sendo a perda de coloração mais acentuada que os não encapsulados. Concluiu-se que é necessário executar alguns cuidados nas fases de encapsulamento dos corantes naturais como: uma dispersão cuidadosa dos corantes naturais e inclusão de um processo de repetição do encapsulamento do xerogel. / The study aimed to identify the Xenon accelerated weathering, using ASTM D4452-12 standards, of natural dyes encapsulated in the silica matrix by the sol-gel process with the use of alkoxides as described by the patent INPI BR 10 2013 0219835, and injected into matrix of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) preserve characteristics of original color of the dye. We used to compare the same natural colors - carmine, turmeric, indigo and annatto - without encapsulation and with encapsulation, and injected into the same matrix of PVC. Performed to determine the change in color before the weathering test after 126 h, 252 h, 378 h and 504 h in Xenon weathering chamber using ASTM D4459- 12 standards. We used the dye Tartrazine (INS 102) an azo dye without encapsulation as a comparison of the behavior of natural dyes with a synthetic dye. The results indicate that there was no protection of natural dyes encapsulated, with the loss of saturation more severe than the non-encapsulated natural dyes. It follows that some care needs to perform the encapsulation stages of natural dyes as a careful dispersion of natural colorants includes a process of repeat the encapsulation of the xerogel.

O trabalho buscou identificar se o intemperismo acelerado Xênon, utilizando a norma ASTM D4452-12, em corantes naturais encapsulados em matriz de sílica pelo processo sol gel com o uso de alcóxidos, conforme descrito pela patente INPI BR 10 2013 0219835, e injetadas em matriz de policloreto de polivinila (PVC) preservam as características de cor original dos corantes. Utilizou-se comparação dos mesmos corantes naturais – carmim, curcuma, índigo e urucum – sem encapsulamento e com encapsulamento, e injetados na mesma matriz de PVC. Executou-se a determinação da variação da cor antes do ensaio de intemperismo e após 126 h, 252 h, 378 h e 504 h em câmara de intemperismo Xênon utilizando-se a norma ASTM D4459-12. Utilizou-se o corante Tartrazina (INS 102) um azo corante sem encapsulamento como comparação do comportamento dos corantes naturais com um corante sintético. Os resultados indicam que não houve proteção da perda da coloração para os corantes naturais encapsulados, sendo a perda de coloração mais acentuada que os não encapsulados. Concluiu-se que é necessário executar alguns cuidados nas fases de encapsulamento dos corantes naturais como: uma dispersão cuidadosa dos corantes naturais e inclusão de um processo de repetição do encapsulamento do xerogel. / The study aimed to identify the Xenon accelerated weathering, using ASTM D4452-12 standards, of natural dyes encapsulated in the silica matrix by the sol-gel process with the use of alkoxides as described by the patent INPI BR 10 2013 0219835, and injected into matrix of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) preserve characteristics of original color of the dye. We used to compare the same natural colors - carmine, turmeric, indigo and annatto - without encapsulation and with encapsulation, and injected into the same matrix of PVC. Performed to determine the change in color before the weathering test after 126 h, 252 h, 378 h and 504 h in Xenon weathering chamber using ASTM D4459- 12 standards. We used the dye Tartrazine (INS 102) an azo dye without encapsulation as a comparison of the behavior of natural dyes with a synthetic dye. The results indicate that there was no protection of natural dyes encapsulated, with the loss of saturation more severe than the non-encapsulated natural dyes. It follows that some care needs to perform the encapsulation stages of natural dyes as a careful dispersion of natural colorants includes a process of repeat the encapsulation of the xerogel.

Master of Science / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Sherry J. Haar / The overarching goals of the project were to acknowledge both traditional and modern aspects of Turkish culture, inform designers and researchers of natural dye and screen printing methods, and advance the developing practices of sustainable design. Mixed methodologies of scientific and practice-based research guided the project. A collection of 25 prints inspired by the Anatolian region of Turkey were screen-printed with thickened natural dyes onto sustainable fibered fabrics. The research of traditional Turkish art and culture led to the inspirational concepts and brought the textile prints to fruition. Understanding the dyeing practices, regional traditions, and political rule of this nation informed the design process and directly influenced the composition and imagery of the designs. The final outcomes were exhibited at the Kansas State University student union art gallery. Research was conducted on the use of natural plant-based dyes madder, weld, and woad for screen-printing by determining the most effective thickener and thickening method. Thickening agents gum tragacanth and gum arabic were tested for fabric hand and the printed natural dyes were tested for colorfastness to light. Gum tragacanth at a ratio of .9875 g agent to 10 ml water emerged as the most smooth and pliable when evaluating fabric hand. Colorfastness to light was as expected for madder and woad with excellent to good fastness. Weld had an unexpectedly low rating indicating further study is needed. The developing practices of sustainable design were advanced as I used sustainable materials (natural dyes, natural gums, naturally fibered fabrics) and methods (hand screenprinting) throughout the project. The information from this project may be valuable to artisans to further develop their natural dye and screen-printing techniques; to researchers to provide a foundation for testing additional thickened dyes; and to industry professionals to modify their practices.

Aspectos ligados à saúde humana e ao meio ambiente têm ampliado o interesse da sociedade pelo uso de corantes naturais. Nesse contexto, inclui-se o retorno ao uso de corantes provenientes de matérias-primas de base florestal. Uma fonte potencial encontra-se na operação industrial de tratamento da madeira de Eucalyptus grandis por vapor. Usualmente, o resíduo líquido gerado ao final do processo é descartado, porém, por possuir cor, seu potencial como um corante natural para fibras têxteis foi aqui investigado. Especificamente, o resíduo foi aplicado em tecidos de algodão, lã e nylon, considerando-se o processo de tingimento por esgotamento. Foram estudados os efeitos da concentração do corante, forma de aplicação, in natura e em pó, tempo, temperatura, pH do banho de tingimento, e adição de sais metálicos no tingimento. Foi avaliada a solidez da cor dos tecidos tingidos quanto à luz, lavagem doméstica e fricção. O estudo contemplou as avaliação das características físico-química do resíduo, nos quesitos pH, cor, cromatografia de camada delgada e teores de sólidos totais e taninos condensados. Os resultados indicaram o resíduo líquido apresentando cor marrom, pH ácido, teor médio de sólidos totais e taninos condensados, respectivamente, de 2,2% e 0,93%. Os resultados das análises de cromatografia de camada delgada sugeriram a presença do ácido tânico na composição do resíduo. Em relação aos resultados de solidez de cor, verificou-se uma boa resistência dos tecidos tingidos à lavagem doméstica e uma solidez de cor à luz típica dos corantes naturais. Observou-se ainda uma boa solidez à fricção, com destaque para o excelente índice de fricção a seco nas malhas de algodão. O resíduo líquido revelou-se como um corante natural, com potencial de aceitação pela indústria têxtil, visando o tingimento de algodão, lã e nylon. / Natural dyes are gaining interest due to their expected low risk to human health and the environment. A source of natural dye was found in industrial operation of steaming Eucalyptus grandis wood. The liquid waste generated at the end of the process has been discarded. Due to this fact and the intensity of the color of the product, it was emerged the idea of this study, considering natural dye for textile fabrics. The waste was used for dyeing cotton, nylon and wool by exhaustion dyeing process. The effects of the dye concentration, the application in liquid and powder form, time, temperature, pH of the dyeing bath and the addition of metal salts in the bath were evaluated. The physic-chemical characteristics of the waste as pH, color, thin layer chromatography, and total solids and condensed tannins were also investigated. The resulting dyed fabrics were evaluated for color fastness to light, domestic washing and rubbing. The waste showed brown color, acidic pH, average total solids content of 2.2% and content of condensed tannins of 0.93%. The results from thin layer chromatography of the residue suggested the presence of tannic acid in its composition. Regarding the color fastness, it was found a very good result considering domestic washfastness, with lightfastness typical of natural dyes. The rubbing fastness was good, especially for cotton, which presented excellent grades. It was possible to consider the liquid residue as product potentially destined to the textile industry, regarding the natural dyeing of cotton, nylon and wool.

>Magister Scientiae - MSc / Recent research shows that the study of optical properties of organic material natural dyes has gained much consideration. The specific functional groups in several natural dyes remain essential for the large nonlinear absorption expressed in terms of nonlinear optical susceptibilities or other mechanism of absorption such as two photon absorption (TPA), reverse saturable absorption (RSA) or intensitydependent refractive index characteristic. In this thesis we highlight the optical limiting responses of selected natural dyes as nonlinear response in the femtosecond regime. This technique refers to the decrease of the transmittance of the material with the increased incident light intensity.Three dyes derived from beetroot, flame flower and mimosa flower dyes were investigated. The results showed a limiting behaviour around 795 mW for the beetroot and the flame dye while there is total transmission in the flame dye sample. The performance of the nonlinearity i.e. the optical limiting is related to the existence of alternating single and double bonds(i.e. C-C and C=C bonds) in the molecules that provides the material with the electron delocalization, but also it is related to the light intensity.Beside nonlinearity study, crystallographic investigation was carried out for more possible applicability of the selected dyes and this concerned only the mimosa and flame flower dye thin film samples since the beetroot thin film was very sensitive to strong irradiation (i.e. immediately destroyed when exposed to light with high intensity). For more stability,dye solutions were encapsulated in gels for further measurements.

Aspectos ligados à saúde humana e ao meio ambiente têm ampliado o interesse da sociedade pelo uso de corantes naturais. Nesse contexto, inclui-se o retorno ao uso de corantes provenientes de matérias-primas de base florestal. Uma fonte potencial encontra-se na operação industrial de tratamento da madeira de Eucalyptus grandis por vapor. Usualmente, o resíduo líquido gerado ao final do processo é descartado, porém, por possuir cor, seu potencial como um corante natural para fibras têxteis foi aqui investigado. Especificamente, o resíduo foi aplicado em tecidos de algodão, lã e nylon, considerando-se o processo de tingimento por esgotamento. Foram estudados os efeitos da concentração do corante, forma de aplicação, in natura e em pó, tempo, temperatura, pH do banho de tingimento, e adição de sais metálicos no tingimento. Foi avaliada a solidez da cor dos tecidos tingidos quanto à luz, lavagem doméstica e fricção. O estudo contemplou as avaliação das características físico-química do resíduo, nos quesitos pH, cor, cromatografia de camada delgada e teores de sólidos totais e taninos condensados. Os resultados indicaram o resíduo líquido apresentando cor marrom, pH ácido, teor médio de sólidos totais e taninos condensados, respectivamente, de 2,2% e 0,93%. Os resultados das análises de cromatografia de camada delgada sugeriram a presença do ácido tânico na composição do resíduo. Em relação aos resultados de solidez de cor, verificou-se uma boa resistência dos tecidos tingidos à lavagem doméstica e uma solidez de cor à luz típica dos corantes naturais. Observou-se ainda uma boa solidez à fricção, com destaque para o excelente índice de fricção a seco nas malhas de algodão. O resíduo líquido revelou-se como um corante natural, com potencial de aceitação pela indústria têxtil, visando o tingimento de algodão, lã e nylon. / Natural dyes are gaining interest due to their expected low risk to human health and the environment. A source of natural dye was found in industrial operation of steaming Eucalyptus grandis wood. The liquid waste generated at the end of the process has been discarded. Due to this fact and the intensity of the color of the product, it was emerged the idea of this study, considering natural dye for textile fabrics. The waste was used for dyeing cotton, nylon and wool by exhaustion dyeing process. The effects of the dye concentration, the application in liquid and powder form, time, temperature, pH of the dyeing bath and the addition of metal salts in the bath were evaluated. The physic-chemical characteristics of the waste as pH, color, thin layer chromatography, and total solids and condensed tannins were also investigated. The resulting dyed fabrics were evaluated for color fastness to light, domestic washing and rubbing. The waste showed brown color, acidic pH, average total solids content of 2.2% and content of condensed tannins of 0.93%. The results from thin layer chromatography of the residue suggested the presence of tannic acid in its composition. Regarding the color fastness, it was found a very good result considering domestic washfastness, with lightfastness typical of natural dyes. The rubbing fastness was good, especially for cotton, which presented excellent grades. It was possible to consider the liquid residue as product potentially destined to the textile industry, regarding the natural dyeing of cotton, nylon and wool.

>Magister Scientiae - MSc / Recent research shows that the study of optical properties of organic material natural dyes has gained much consideration. The specific functional groups in several natural dyes remain essential for the large nonlinear absorption expressed in terms of nonlinear optical susceptibilities or other mechanism of absorption such as two photon absorption (TPA), reverse saturable absorption (RSA) or intensitydependent refractive index characteristic. In this thesis we highlight the optical limiting responses of selected natural dyes as nonlinear response in the femtosecond regime. This technique refers to the decrease of the transmittance of the material with the increased incident light intensity.Three dyes derived from beetroot, flame flower and mimosa flower dyes were investigated. The results showed a limiting behaviour around 795 mW for the beetroot and the flame dye while there is total transmission in the flame dye sample. The performance of the nonlinearity i.e. the optical limiting is related to the existence of alternating single and double bonds (i.e. C-C and C=C bonds) in the molecules that provides the material with the electron delocalization, but also it is related to the light intensity.Beside nonlinearity study, crystallographic investigation was carried out for more possible applicability of the selected dyes and this concerned only the mimosa and flame flower dye thin film samples since the beetroot thin film was very sensitive to strong irradiation (i.e. immediately destroyed when exposed to light with high intensity). For more stability,dye solutions were encapsulated in gels for further measurements.