The degradation of wool keratin under conditions relevant to those of wool dyeing was investigated using the techniques of gel permeation chromatography (GPC), ion exchange gel chromatography, and amino acid analysis. Physical testing of the treated and untreated wool was also carried out to determine the physical changes occurring, parameters used being percentage elongation at the break, and the breaking strain of the fibre. Samples of wool keratin were immersed in various aqueous solutions at 1000C for 24 hours and the filtered, aqueous, oxidised extracts were analysed* The solutions used varied only in the dye, or dye intermediate present in the treatment solution. All treatment baths contained 10% owf 1.02 x 10 -2 MSulphuric VI acid; 10%owf 7.04x 10 -3 MSodium sulphate VI ; A 100 :1 liquor ratio was used in each case. Some of the dye intermediates showed a marked catalytic effect, particularly in their effect on breaking strain, a decrease of 40% in some cases. The GPC profiles of the extracted proteins were examined in detail and compared against previous workers' results. An explanation of the behaviour of the dyes and intermediates was proposed. The amino acid composition data of the extracted and fractionated proteins were compared against various morphological components extracted by other workers, as was the total gelatin obtained from each treatment.

Zu Beginn des Forschungsvorhabens wurden im Rahmen der Teilprojekte B1 und B2 des SFB 532 alkalibeständige Glas- und Carbonrovings eingesetzt, die zu offenmaschigen 2D-Textilien verarbeitet wurden. Untersuchungen des Verbund- und des Tragverhaltens der Verstärkungsstrukturen in Pull-Out- und Dehnkörperversuchen haben gezeigt, dass das Potential der Verstärkungsfasern aufgrund einer unvollständiger Durchtränkung der Bewehrung nicht vollständig ausgeschöpft werden kann. Auch Defizite bei der Produktionstechnik wurden erkannt und für zukünftige Entwicklungen analysiert. Um das Potential der verwendeten Verstärkungsfaser vollständiger auszuschöpfen, wurden innovative Garnkonstruktionen, die sich positiv auf den inneren und/oder den äußeren Verbund auswirken, entwickelt und erprobt. Anhand von Versuchsreihen auf der Textilebene wurden unterschiedliche Textilparameter, wie Art der Bindung, Gittergröße und Wirkfadenspannung, identifiziert, die unmittelbar die Tragfähigkeit der Verbundbauteile beeinflussen. Für die gängigen Produktionstechniken Laminieren, Gießen, Spritzen, Schleudern und Extrudieren wurden entsprechende Bewehrungskonstruktionen abgeleitet, die den Anforderungen des jeweiligen Prozess angepasst wurden. Ein weiterer Punkt der Forschungsaktivitäten stellte die Entwicklung der Maschinentechnik zur Herstellung von Verstärkungstextilien dar. Am Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) der RWTH Aachen University wurde in Zusammenarbeit mit Industriepartnern ein Maschinenkonzept entwickelt und umgesetzt, das die Herstellung von 3D-Abstandsgewirken mit einer freien Gestaltung der Deckflächen mit marktrelevanten Produktionsgeschwindigkeiten ermöglicht. Zur gezielten Einstellung der Wirkfadenspannung wurde ein Regelungssystem konzipiert und technisch umgesetzt, mit dem eine reproduzierbare Fertigung von textilen Verstärkungsstrukturen möglich wird.

The optimization of the spinning process and adjustment of the machine settings involve “Trial and Error” method resulting in the wasting of production time and material. This situation becomes worse in the spinning mills where the speed and material changes are frequent. This research includes the use of artificial neural networks to provide the thinking ability to the spinning machines to improve the yarn spinning process. Draw frame, being the central part of the spinning preparation chain and last machine to rectify the variations in the fed slivers is the main focus of the research work. Artificial neural network have been applied to the leveling action point at auto-leveler draw frame and search range of leveling action point has been considerably reduced. Moreover, the sliver and yarn characteristics have been predicted on the basis of draw frame settings using the artificial neural networks. The results of present research work can help the spinning industry in the direction of limiting of “Trial and Error” method, reduction of waste and cutting down the time losses associated with the optimizing of machines. As a vision for the future research work the concept of intelligent spinning machines has also been proposed. / Die Optimierung des Spinnprozesses und die Maschineneinstellung erfolgen häufig mittels „Trial und Error“-Methoden, die mit einem hohen Aufwand an Produktionszeit und Material einhergehen. Diese Situation ist für Spinnereien, in denen häufige Wechsel des eingesetzten Materials oder der Produktionsgeschwindigkeit nötig sind, besonders ungünstig. Die vorliegende Arbeit zeigt das Potenzial Neuronaler Netze, um die Spinnmaschine zum „Denken“ zu befähigen und damit die Garnherstellung effektiver zu machen. Die Strecke ist der zentrale Teil der Spinnereivorbereitungskette und bietet die letzte Möglichkeit, Inhomogenitäten im Faserband zu beseitigen. Der Fokus der Arbeit richtet sich deshalb auf diese Maschine. Künstlich Neuronale Netze werden an der Strecke zur Bestimmung des Regeleinsatzpunktes genutzt, womit eine beträchtliche Reduzierung des Aufwands für die korrekte Festlegung des Regeleinsatzpunkts erreicht wird. Darüber hinaus können mit Hilfe der Neuronalen Netze die Band- und Garneigenschaften auf Basis der Streckeneinstellungen vorausbestimmt werden. Die Resultate der vorliegenden Arbeit machen „Trial und Error“-Methoden überflüssig, reduzieren den Ausschuss und verringern die Zeitverluste bei der Maschinenoptimierung. Als Zukunftsvision wird eine Konzeption für intelligente Spinnmaschinen vorgestellt.

CAPES / A indústria têxtil brasileira ocupa um importante papel na economia e se posiciona entre as 10 maiores produtoras mundiais. Seus efluentes, gerados no processo de tingimento dos tecidos, contém cargas de 15 a 50% de corantes, além de outros contaminantes. Com vistas à remediação ambiental destes efluentes, o resíduo do processamento dos fios de algodão (RA), que é coletado na própria unidade fabril, revelou-se um material atraente para a remoção de corantes após sua derivatização química com ácido monocloroacético (AMCA) ou cloreto dietilaminoetil.cloridrato (DEAE+reagente), obtendo matrizes iônicas do tipo carboximetil-RA (CM--RA) e dietilaminoetil-RA (DEAE+-RA), respectivamente. Estas matrizes foram obtidas através de delineamentos experimentais, sendo que para a CM--RA foram avaliados os fatores: a) concentração de NaOH; b) volume de isopropanol e c) quantidade de AMCA, enquanto que para a DEAE+-RA, os fatores foram: a) concentração de NaOH e b) quantidade de DEAE-reagente. Tais matrizes foram ensaiadas, respectivamente, quanto à eficiência na retenção de corantes: catiônico, C.I. Basic Blue 41 (BB 41) e aniônico, C.I. Reactive Red 239 (RR 239), em experimentos em coluna e batelada. Também foi avaliada a biodegradabilidade desses materiais utilizando enzimas celulolíticas. Para as melhores matrizes obtidas foram realizados experimentos adicionais quanto à eficiência de retenção dos corantes (concentração inicial, tempo de contato e adição de sais), a biodegradabilidade após a retenção dos corantes e o ensaio de regeneração das matrizes. Para a CM--RA, a eficiência de captação de corante catiônico foi predominantemente determinada pela concentração de álcali. A inclusão do maior volume de isopropanol resultou em incremento da eficiência, entretanto, com custo adicional não justificável. A melhor matriz obtida na ausência de isopropanol apresentou valores de retenção para os testes em coluna e batelada maior que um produto comercial do tipo carboximetilcelulose. Para o teste de biodegradabilidade, as amostras derivatizadas tiveram hidrólises próximas aos controles com adição de NaOH. Para o DEAE+-RA, a principal variável responsável pela eficiência da retenção de corantes foi a quantidade do derivatizante, sendo que nos ensaios em coluna e batelada a resposta foi semelhante ao obtido com um produto comercial DEAE-Celulose. Através do teste de biodegradabilidade observou-se que a derivatização reduziu a porcentagem de hidrólise quando comparada aos seus controles com NaOH. Para as melhores matrizes, o ensaio de concentração inicial de corantes indicou que a retenção é maior com o aumento da concentração. Quanto à adição de NaCl, houve redução da retenção de corante na matriz carboximetilada enquanto para a dietilaminoetilada a influência foi positiva acima de 50 mM. A presença de corante reduziu em 4,10 e 37,36 % a hidrólise das matrizes carboximetilada e dietilaminoetilada, respectivamente. No presente trabalho, os derivados CM--RA e DEAE+-RA se revelaram eficientes para a remoção dos corantes BB 41 e RR 239, respectivamente, podendo assim se apresentar como uma alternativa no tratamento de efluentes têxteis. / The Brazilian textile industry occupies an important role in the economy and ranks among the 10 largest world producers The effluents generated in the process of fabrics dyeing contain 15 to 50% of dyes and others contaminants. With a view to environmental remediation of these effluents, the processing of cotton yarn waste (cotton dust waste - CDW) that is collected in the plant itself, proved to be an attractive material for the removal of the residual dyes effluents after the chemical derivatization with monochloroacetic acid (MCAA) or diethylaminoethyl chloride.hydrochloride (DEAE+reagent), thus originating matrices carboxymethyl- CDW (CM--CDW) and diethylaminoethyl-CDW (DEAE+-CDW), respectively. These matrices were obtained using experimental designs, when for CM--CDW three factors were evaluated: a) concentration of NaOH; b) volume of isopropanol and c) amount of MCAA, while for DEAE+-CDW, the factors were: a) concentration of NaOH and b) amount of DEAE+reagent. These matrices were tested for their effectiveness in the retention of dyes: the cationic, C. I. Basic Blue 41 (BB 41) and the anionic, C. I. Reactive Red 239 (RR 239), both in column and batch experiments. Also, the biodegradability of these materials was tested. For the best matrices obtained, additional experiments regarding the retention efficiency of the dyes (initial concentration, contact time and addition of salts) and matrices biodegradability after the dye retention were also carried out. For the CM--CDW, the efficiency of uptake of the cationic dye was predominantly determined by the concentration of alkali. The inclusion of the higher volume of isopropanol in the pretreatment step resulted in improved efficiency, but with an additional cost not justifiable. The best matrix obtained in the absence of isopropanol showed retention values for column and batch experiments with respective efficiencies of 3.9 and 2 times higher than a commercial CM-cellulose. For the biodegradability test, the samples of experimental design showed close enzymatic hydrolysis compared with the controls with alkali. For the DEAE+-CDW, the main variable for the efficiency of dye retention is predominantly determined by the amount of DEAE+reagent. The maximum retention of the anionic dye was obtained in columns while the batch alternatve performance was close to that of a commercial DEAE-Cellulose. The biodegradability test revealed that the derivatization with DEAE+reagent reduced the percentage of hydrolysis by cellulases when compared to the controls with NaOH. The initial concentration test of dye indicated that the retention increases with increased dye concentration and contact time to reach equilibrium which was higher in the higher concentrations in both matrices. The addition of NaCl decreased the dye retention for the carboxymethylated matrix and for the diethylaminoethylizated matrix the influence was positive only after addition of 50 mM. The presence of dye in the matrices derivatized reduced the hydrolysis in 4.10 and 37.36 % for carboxymethylated and diethylaminoethylizated matrices, respectively. Therefore, the CM--CDW and DEAE+- CDW derivatives of CDW proved effective for the removal of the dyes BB 41 and RR 239, respectively, and thus both represent important alternatives in the treatment of colored textile effluents.

CAPES / A indústria têxtil brasileira ocupa um importante papel na economia e se posiciona entre as 10 maiores produtoras mundiais. Seus efluentes, gerados no processo de tingimento dos tecidos, contém cargas de 15 a 50% de corantes, além de outros contaminantes. Com vistas à remediação ambiental destes efluentes, o resíduo do processamento dos fios de algodão (RA), que é coletado na própria unidade fabril, revelou-se um material atraente para a remoção de corantes após sua derivatização química com ácido monocloroacético (AMCA) ou cloreto dietilaminoetil.cloridrato (DEAE+reagente), obtendo matrizes iônicas do tipo carboximetil-RA (CM--RA) e dietilaminoetil-RA (DEAE+-RA), respectivamente. Estas matrizes foram obtidas através de delineamentos experimentais, sendo que para a CM--RA foram avaliados os fatores: a) concentração de NaOH; b) volume de isopropanol e c) quantidade de AMCA, enquanto que para a DEAE+-RA, os fatores foram: a) concentração de NaOH e b) quantidade de DEAE-reagente. Tais matrizes foram ensaiadas, respectivamente, quanto à eficiência na retenção de corantes: catiônico, C.I. Basic Blue 41 (BB 41) e aniônico, C.I. Reactive Red 239 (RR 239), em experimentos em coluna e batelada. Também foi avaliada a biodegradabilidade desses materiais utilizando enzimas celulolíticas. Para as melhores matrizes obtidas foram realizados experimentos adicionais quanto à eficiência de retenção dos corantes (concentração inicial, tempo de contato e adição de sais), a biodegradabilidade após a retenção dos corantes e o ensaio de regeneração das matrizes. Para a CM--RA, a eficiência de captação de corante catiônico foi predominantemente determinada pela concentração de álcali. A inclusão do maior volume de isopropanol resultou em incremento da eficiência, entretanto, com custo adicional não justificável. A melhor matriz obtida na ausência de isopropanol apresentou valores de retenção para os testes em coluna e batelada maior que um produto comercial do tipo carboximetilcelulose. Para o teste de biodegradabilidade, as amostras derivatizadas tiveram hidrólises próximas aos controles com adição de NaOH. Para o DEAE+-RA, a principal variável responsável pela eficiência da retenção de corantes foi a quantidade do derivatizante, sendo que nos ensaios em coluna e batelada a resposta foi semelhante ao obtido com um produto comercial DEAE-Celulose. Através do teste de biodegradabilidade observou-se que a derivatização reduziu a porcentagem de hidrólise quando comparada aos seus controles com NaOH. Para as melhores matrizes, o ensaio de concentração inicial de corantes indicou que a retenção é maior com o aumento da concentração. Quanto à adição de NaCl, houve redução da retenção de corante na matriz carboximetilada enquanto para a dietilaminoetilada a influência foi positiva acima de 50 mM. A presença de corante reduziu em 4,10 e 37,36 % a hidrólise das matrizes carboximetilada e dietilaminoetilada, respectivamente. No presente trabalho, os derivados CM--RA e DEAE+-RA se revelaram eficientes para a remoção dos corantes BB 41 e RR 239, respectivamente, podendo assim se apresentar como uma alternativa no tratamento de efluentes têxteis. / The Brazilian textile industry occupies an important role in the economy and ranks among the 10 largest world producers The effluents generated in the process of fabrics dyeing contain 15 to 50% of dyes and others contaminants. With a view to environmental remediation of these effluents, the processing of cotton yarn waste (cotton dust waste - CDW) that is collected in the plant itself, proved to be an attractive material for the removal of the residual dyes effluents after the chemical derivatization with monochloroacetic acid (MCAA) or diethylaminoethyl chloride.hydrochloride (DEAE+reagent), thus originating matrices carboxymethyl- CDW (CM--CDW) and diethylaminoethyl-CDW (DEAE+-CDW), respectively. These matrices were obtained using experimental designs, when for CM--CDW three factors were evaluated: a) concentration of NaOH; b) volume of isopropanol and c) amount of MCAA, while for DEAE+-CDW, the factors were: a) concentration of NaOH and b) amount of DEAE+reagent. These matrices were tested for their effectiveness in the retention of dyes: the cationic, C. I. Basic Blue 41 (BB 41) and the anionic, C. I. Reactive Red 239 (RR 239), both in column and batch experiments. Also, the biodegradability of these materials was tested. For the best matrices obtained, additional experiments regarding the retention efficiency of the dyes (initial concentration, contact time and addition of salts) and matrices biodegradability after the dye retention were also carried out. For the CM--CDW, the efficiency of uptake of the cationic dye was predominantly determined by the concentration of alkali. The inclusion of the higher volume of isopropanol in the pretreatment step resulted in improved efficiency, but with an additional cost not justifiable. The best matrix obtained in the absence of isopropanol showed retention values for column and batch experiments with respective efficiencies of 3.9 and 2 times higher than a commercial CM-cellulose. For the biodegradability test, the samples of experimental design showed close enzymatic hydrolysis compared with the controls with alkali. For the DEAE+-CDW, the main variable for the efficiency of dye retention is predominantly determined by the amount of DEAE+reagent. The maximum retention of the anionic dye was obtained in columns while the batch alternatve performance was close to that of a commercial DEAE-Cellulose. The biodegradability test revealed that the derivatization with DEAE+reagent reduced the percentage of hydrolysis by cellulases when compared to the controls with NaOH. The initial concentration test of dye indicated that the retention increases with increased dye concentration and contact time to reach equilibrium which was higher in the higher concentrations in both matrices. The addition of NaCl decreased the dye retention for the carboxymethylated matrix and for the diethylaminoethylizated matrix the influence was positive only after addition of 50 mM. The presence of dye in the matrices derivatized reduced the hydrolysis in 4.10 and 37.36 % for carboxymethylated and diethylaminoethylizated matrices, respectively. Therefore, the CM--CDW and DEAE+- CDW derivatives of CDW proved effective for the removal of the dyes BB 41 and RR 239, respectively, and thus both represent important alternatives in the treatment of colored textile effluents.

Este projeto, \"Influência do fator de cobertura nas propriedades de permeabilidade de tecidos planos\", descreve um breve histórico sobre a Tecelagem e seu crescimento na indústria Têxtil mundial, sendo muito importante o seu desenvolvimento para a indústria. Será apresentado também o conceito sobre Fator de cobertura de tecidos planos. Com o objetivo de avaliar a correlação entre o fator de cobertura e a permeabilidade dos tecidos planos, foram desenvolvidas 18 amostras de tecido com fio 60/2 Ne 100% agodão no urdume e na trama, em ligamento tela, sarja e cetim com densidades de trama 16tramas/cm, 24tramas/cm e 32tramas/cm, e com densidade de urdume 16fios/cm e 32fios/cm . Foi calculado o fator de cobertura para todas as amostras e foram realisados ensaios de gramatura, permeabilidade ao ar, permeabilidade ao vapor de água e permeabilidade a água, com a observação do indice OMMC (Capacidade de gestão global de umidade) do aparelho MMT (Moisture Management Tester). Este estudo se mostra como um caminho na Utilização do fator de cobertura, como item a ser considerado no desenvolvimento de novos artigos. Os resultados mostram para cada ligamento e fator de cobertura o comportamento com relação à permeabilidade dos Tecidos / This project, \"Influence of the coverage factor on the properties of permeability of woven\", describes a brief history on Weaving and its growth in the world textile industry, being very important its development for the industry. The concept of woven coverage factor, will also be presented. In order to evaluate the co-relation between the coverage factor and the permeability of woven, 18 wovens samples were developed with 60/2 Ne 100% cotton thread in the warp and the weft, inwoven twill and satin weave with warp weights 16 yarn/cm, 24 yarn/cm and 32 yarn/cm and with warp density 16 yarn/cm and 32yarn/cm. The coverage factor was calculated for all samples and weight, air permeability, water vapor permeability and water permeability tests were performed with the observation of the OMMC (Global Moisture ManagementCapacity) index of the MMT (Moisture Management Tester).This study shows as a path in the use of the coverage factor, as an item to be considered in the development of new articles. The results show for each ligament and cover factor the behavior regarding the permeability of the wovens

O comportamento dinamométrico de malhas submetidas à tração é geralmente inadequado para atender aos padrões atuais de conforto e desempenho e, portanto, fibras elastoméricas são cada vez mais utilizadas em conjunto com algodão, viscose, poliamida e poliéster para conferir aos artigos um maior grau de alongamento e uma melhor recuperação elástica. Dessa forma as características desses produtos estão amplamente associadas ao fio de elastano e sua utilização. No entanto as relações entre a proporção de elastano, a alimentação de fio rígido e as propriedades físicas obtidas nas malhas é algo ainda pouco estudado. O objetivo desse trabalho é estudar e definir essas relações através do planejamento de experimentos em malhas monofrontura de poliamida/elastano. Foram alteradas condições de alimentação do fio de poliamida (LFA) e tensão do elastano e, após relaxamento, medidas várias propriedades das malhas produzidas como gramatura, largura, densidade, espessura, porcentagem de elastano, permeabilidade ao vapor, alongamento e elasticidade. Foi possível observar como a tensão de elastano é preponderante na densidade e na porcentagem de elastano, enquanto o LFA da poliamida é predominante na espessura e alongamento da malha, enquanto a largura, a elasticidade e a permeabilidade ao vapor não sofrem influências significativas de nenhum dos dois fatores analisados. / The dynamometric behavior of knits subjected to traction is generally inadequate to meet current standards of comfort and performance and, therefore, elastomeric fibers are increasingly used in combination with cotton, viscose, polyamide and polyester to give to these articles a greater degree of elongation and better elastic recovery. Thus the characteristics of these products are widely associated with elastane yarn. However the relationship between the elastic yarn rate, the loop length and the physical properties obtained in the jersey knit is somewhat poorly studied. The aim of this work is to study and define these relationships using design of experiments in polyamide / elastane single jersey knits. The polyamide feed (LFA) and elastane tension were changed and, after relaxation, measurements of jersey properties were done, such as mass per unit area, width, density, thickness, percentage of elastane, water vapor permeability, elongation and elasticity. It was possible to observe how elastane tension is leading to density and percentage of spandex, while polyamide LFA is predominant in the thickness and elongation, since the width, elasticity and vapor permeability are not influenced by either of the two significant factors

No description available.

Der komplexe Verarbeitungsprozess endlosfaserverstärkter Textilthermoplaste beeinflusst maßgeblich die resultierende textile Struktur und damit im gleichen Maße die strukturellen Eigenschaften des Verbundes. Zur vollständigen Ausschöpfung des vielversprechenden Potentials dieser innovativen Werkstoffgruppe ist es daher notwendig, die Fertigungssimulation in den Entwicklungsprozess zu integrieren. In der vorliegenden Arbeit wird eine qualitative als auch quantitative Beschreibung der komplexen Deformationsphänomenologie von Textilthermoplasten beim Thermoformen vorgenommen, wobei die eingehende Analyse der lokalen Textilthermoplaststruktur und -verformung fokussiert wird. Auf Grundlage eines umfangreichen experimentellen Prüfprogramm wird abschließend zur modellbasierten Beschreibung der Deformationsvorgänge ein neuartiges Multi-Skalen-Modell entwickelt, mit dem sich die auftretende Phänomenologie virtuell wiedergeben lässt.

In this study, the application of carbon filament yarn (CFY)-based conductive hybrid yarn as the heating element in a textile-reinforced concrete structure is reported. For this purpose, a hybrid yarn having a core-sheath structure (the core is made of carbon filament yarn and the sheath consists of a mixture of short glass and polypropylene fibres) is manufactured by DREF-2000 spinning technique and integrated into textile structure by tailored fibre placement method. Heat can be generated in the concrete structure by passing electric current through the conductive carbon filament yarn core of the hybrid yarn using the principle of resistive heating, where the sheath acts as the protection and isolation layer. From the initial investigations made on a small concrete specimen, important information is gathered and a large concrete slab with integrated conductive hybrid yarn is manufactured. The heat ability and the comfort level of the manufactured concrete slab are measured. The investigations have revealed the potential of using such hybrid yarn for a pointwise heating of the concrete surface for possible appliance in outdoor furniture.