Despite the vast research regarding non-conformative bodies, there is little material on the gay bear representation in fashion modeling. This thesis investigates the bear embodiment in the runway shows of Walter Van Beirendonck, respectively W&LT Autumn/Winter 1995–1996 Paradise Pleasure Productions, W&LT Autumn/Winter 1996-1997 Wonderland, Walter Van Beirendonck Spring/Summer 2010 Wonder, and Walter Van Beirendonck Spring/Summer 2011 Read My Skin. Critical visual analysis follows the gay bear symbolism in the video recordings of the runways, revealing how it challenges the fashion industry’s body standards and, in a broader frame, the dictates of hegemonic masculinity. The concepts of gender performativity and biopower provide the theoretical frame of the study, while Madison Moore’s theory of ‘fabulousness’ and José Esteban Muñoz’s understanding of ‘utopia’ lead to the articulation of performances both masculine and queer. The findings lead to the discovery of non-dual and body-inclusive gay bear embodiments that challenge the relationship between body and dress and can extend beyond the limits of the runway.
| Identifer | oai:union.ndltd.org:UPSALLA1/oai:DiVA.org:su-194719 |
| Date | January 2021 |
| Creators | Suman, Iulian |
| Publisher | Stockholms universitet, Modevetenskap |
| Source Sets | DiVA Archive at Upsalla University |
| Language | English |
| Detected Language | English |
| Type | Student thesis, info:eu-repo/semantics/bachelorThesis, text |
| Format | application/pdf |
| Rights | info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
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