The last decade has seen the rise of a new trinity of supermodels, the so-called Insta-girls, Kendall Jenner, Gigi, and Bella Hadid. Besides mastering the art of digital self-promotion, they belong to famous Californian families with strong ties to show business. Their impressive climb to the top has made them the most followed and paid models in the fashion industry. Nevertheless, their role in contemporary visual and celebrity culture has been scarcely inquired about by academics. The aim of this thesis is to explore through a critical visual analysis of their representations how and if the newfound role of social media as a source of stardom is challenging established myths of celebrity and ingrained high fashion beauty ideals. Firstly, through the use of Pierre Bourdieu’s theory of the ‘Field’ and Olivier Driessens’ schema of ‘Celebritization’, it is analyzed how the Insta-girls have designed their personas, their public mask, mimicking previous templates of the fashion modeling field. Secondly, through the lenses of Sandra Lee Bartky and Susan Bordo, two feminist theorists who have assessed and discussed how women regulate and discipline their bodies, this thesis shows how the Insta-girls, despite their celebrity status, have been scrutinized according to the rigid body standards required of fashion models.

"The Gordita's Guide to Body Positivity" is an autobiographical documentary reflecting on society's expectations of the female body image and how it affects Latinx women. Through personal recollections, media content, and archival material, the film explores beauty expectations, body discrimination, and body positivity. The document analyzes the documentary styles such as autoethnography and narration incorporated into the film and provides historical and theoretical context to body image in the Latinx culture and how the media has affected body image, beauty ideals, and eating disorders. In addition, the pre-production, production, and post-production process is detailed.

Yes / We examined whether visual processing mechanisms of the body of conspecifics are different in women and men and whether these rely on westernised socio-cultural ideals and body image concerns. Twenty-four women and 24 men performed a visual discrimination task of upright or inverted images of female or male bodies and faces (Experiment 1) and objects (Experiment 2). In Experiment 1, both groups of women and men showed comparable abilities in the discrimination of upright and inverted bodies and faces. However, the gender of the human stimuli yielded different effects on participants’ performance, so that female faces, and male bodies appeared to be processed less configurally than female bodies and male faces, respectively. Interestingly, the reduction of configural processing for male bodies was significantly predicted by participants’ Body Mass Index (BMI) and their level of internalization of muscularity. Our findings suggest that configural visual processing of bodies and faces in women and men may be linked to a selective attention to detail needed for discriminating salient physical (perhaps sexual) cues of conspecifics. Importantly, BMI and muscularity internalization of beauty ideals may also play a crucial role in this mechanism.

This dissertation consists of three essays that adopt both theoretical and empirical methods of analysis to study certain economies in which the incomplete information and the strategic complementarities between players are important. Chapter 1 explains the topics discussed in the subsequent chapters and gives a brief survey on the literature. In Chapter 2, I revise a traditional global game model by dividing the continuum of players into a group of speculators and a group of stakeholders. It is found that the uniqueness property remains in the new game. Then I extend the static game to a two-stage game and investigate the efficacies of certain label changing mechanisms proposed by the authority to stabilize the regime in the dynamic context. It is shown that a label changing mechanism allowing for downward social mobility may not work, whereas a label changing mechanism allowing for upward social mobility generally makes the regime more stable. In Chapter 3, I add a speculator and an authority to a bank-run model to investigate how the speculator endangers a business or an economy, and what the authority can do about it. In particular, I show that the speculator can increase the financial system's vulnerability by serving as a coordinating device for the investors and thus triggering the crisis. It is further shown that deterring the speculator may not undo the speculator's impact because of multiplicity problem; rewarding holding investors is useless; and eliminating the preemption motives among investors works given enough effort. A discussion of the 1997 Asian financial crisis and the IMF's role in it is also included. Chapter 4 develops a repeated beauty-contest game to investigate the effect of previous winners' actions on the spread of subsequent players' actions. I first characterize the unique equilibrium of the game. Then I focus on the equilibrium dynamics of several variances depicting different forms of action variability. It is found that whether or not a specific variance diminishes over time depends on the relative precision of public and private signals. To illustrate the theoretical results, I conduct an empirical study on the Miss Korea contest. It is found that the contestants' faces have been converging to the ``true beauty'' overall, but diverging from each other over the last 20 years. Chapter 5 concludes. / Ph. D.

This project began as a desire for large open rooms, unrestricted by programmatic requirements; a realm where architecture, its meaning, and its purpose could be explored unhindered. I chose a winery and located it among the rolling hills north of Charlottesville, Virginia. Inspired by the beauty of vineyards, this winery facilitates the natural process begun in the growing of a grape. Sunk into the hillside, the earth provides the stable temperature and humidity necessary for wine maturation. Accounting for the technical aspects of winemaking, this project likewise addresses the aesthetic, creating not only a functioning winery, nor simply a beautiful building, but a marriage between the two. The winery consists of a series of rooms that house a singular process of winemaking. Architecturally, the rooms are likewise individual in character: centrally planned spaces described by sacred geometry. These rooms are linked by a series of axial relationships. The descent and subsequent ascent lie on axis, rotated 90° from each other. The entrance and exit halls lie on a separate axis, shifted 45° from the former, marking the transition between the exterior natural world and the submerged built world. Visitors follow a more circuitous path. Weaving in and out, the foot's path intersects the main axes at crucial moments, but is otherwise diverted. The vertical axis also heightens spatial divisions and interrelations. Submerged in the earth the rooms each open to the sky, marking their depth within the dark, quiet earth while reconnecting them to the realm of the vineyards. / Master of Architecture

The purpose of this study was to investigate the interplay of dress and qualifications of physically impaired males in a simulated employment-screening situation. The research design was a 3 x 2 x 2 factorial, with the independent variables being applicant's appropriateness of dress (high, moderate, low), applicant's credentials (high, low) and respondent's sex (male, female). A physical impairment was simulated by having the model sit in a wheelchair. Hypotheses tested were that the independent variables (appropriateness of dress, credentials and respondent's sex) would not affect ratings on personal characteristics, assignment of entry level salary or decision to hire the applicant. Ninety-four persons employed in management positions rated, on five-point scales, a bogus physically impaired male job applicant. Folders containing instructions, a job description, a 5 x 7 inch color photograph of the applicant, a personal data sheet and the rating scales were randomly assigned to the respondents who evaluated only one job applicant. A three-way multivariate analysis of variance was performed on the eleven personal characteristics as a group. Both dress (F = 2.18, P < .0034) and credentials (F = 5.35, P < .0001) had a significant effect on ratings. The model was rated higher on all eleven personal characteristics when more appropriately dressed and with higher credentials. Sex of the respondent was not significant, nor were there significant interactions. Three-way analysis of variance was used to test the effect of the independent variables on recommendation to hire and entry level salary. Recommendation to hire was affected by dress (F = 13.47, P < .0001) and by credentials (F = 9.46, P < .0029). Entry level salary was affected by dress (F = 4. 00, P < 0.0220) but not by credentials (F = 3.26, P < 0.0745). Sex of the rater had no effect on either recoommendation to hire or entry level salary assignment. From the findings of the study, one may conclude that dress as well as credentials have a definite effect on decisions made during the job-screening process of a physically impaired job applicant. These findings support similar research with unimpaired job applicants and reinforce the importance of dress as a factor in self-presentation. / Ph. D.

Denna studie undersöker vilken påverkan förpackningsdesign har inom skönhetsindustrin men även hur hållbara förpackningsalternativ, med fokus på påfyllningsbara produkter, påverkar återköp. Genom en kvalitativ forskningsmetod, där semistrukturerade intervjuer användes för att samla in data, visar resultatet att förpackningsdesignen identifieras som en avgörande faktor för sensorisk njutning och produktupplevelse. Färg, form och materialval spelar en betydande roll i köpbeslut, där färg och material har större inverkan än formen. Vissa färger associeras med lyx och kvalitet, medan material som glas upplevs som högre kvalitet och mer miljövänligt jämfört med plast. Förpackningens funktion är också avgörande, där välfungerande och skyddande förpackningar stärker konsumenternas förtroende. Hållbarhetsfaktorer är viktiga för konsumenterna, där miljövänliga material samt information om hållbarhet på förpackningen har en positiv inverkan. Påfyllningsbara förpackningar lockar konsumenter och kan förbättra varumärkesimagen samt ge ekonomiska fördelar för både konsumenter och producenter. Vidare har påfyllningsbara produkter potential att öka återköpen genom att erbjuda ekonomiska fördelar och möta efterfrågan på miljövänliga alternativ. Konsumenterna sparar pengar genom att köpa påfyllningar istället för nya förpackningar, vilket ökar sannolikheten för återköp. Första intrycket av en produkt påverkar initiala köpbeslut, medan produktens kvalitet och funktion är avgörande för återköp. Företag som investerar i hållbara förpackningslösningar och upprätthåller hög produktkvalitet kan därmed bygga starka kundrelationer och öka kundlojaliteten på lång sikt. / This study investigates the impact of packaging design within the beauty industry, as well as how sustainable packaging options, with a focus on refillable products, influence repurchase behaviour. Through a qualitative research method, where semi-structured interviews were conducted to collect data, the results show that packaging design is identified as a crucial factor for sensory enjoyment and product experience. Colour, shape, and material choices play a significant role in purchasing decisions, with colour and material having a greater impact than shape. Certain colours are associated with luxury and quality, while materials like glass are perceived as higher quality and more environmentally friendly compared to plastic.The functionality of the packaging is critical, with well-functioning and protective packaging enhancing consumer trust. Sustainability factors are important to consumers, and eco-friendly materials as well as information about sustainability on the packaging have a positive impact. Refillable packaging attracts consumers and can improve brand image as well as provide economic benefits for both consumers and producers. Refillable products have the potential to increase repurchase by offering economic advantages and meeting the demand for eco-friendly alternatives. Consumers save money by buying refills instead of new packages, which increases the likelihood of repurchase. The first impression of a product influences initial purchase decisions, while product quality and functionality are crucial for repurchase. Companies that invest in sustainable packaging solutions and maintain high product quality can build strong customer relationships and increase customer loyalty in the long term.

The purpose of this study is to give a deeper understanding of Anna Sewell’s argumentation for a changed view on animals in her book Black Beauty and Sewell’s contribution to the animal welfare debate. The questions addressed in the study is: What arguments does Sewell present for a changed view on animals? What contemporary assumptions does Sewell challenge? Against what contemporary assumptions does her argument become effective? To answer these questions the material that are examined is Sewell’s book Black Beauty: His Grooms and Companions, the Autobiography of a Horse (1877), first published in England. The theoretical perspective is that the book’s influence on the debate only is effective through two factors which is Sewell’s argumentation and the contemporary conditions that affected her way of arguing. These two factors become effective through interaction. The method used is a rhetorical analysis because it takes hold on text and context. Prior research has found through their perspective that the horses in Sewell’s book represent humans. But this study argues that the horses in Sewell’s book represent horses and that the book argues for a change in the way human’s attitude towards animals. The analysis in this study shows that Sewell’s argumentation can be divided into four categories of the contemporary ethics and context’s: Christianity, socialism, critique off fashion and machine. The conclusion drawn from the study is that Sewells arguments for a changed view on animals is based on these four categories where she must argue with and against them.

Afrikaans text / Hierdie studie spreek die beperkte en eensydige beriggewing oor vroue en vroulike skoonheid in die Hebreeuse Bybel en ander antieke geskrifte aan, asook die ondergeskikte posisie wat vroue in die patriargale Ou Testamentiese samelewing beklee het. ‘n Argeologiese benadering word gevolg en beskikbare literêre bronne word gebruik. Daar word gelet op die redes waarom ‘n mooi voorkoms vir vroue so belangrik was. Hul posisie ten opsigte van staatkundige, wetlike, godsdienstige, ekonomiese en huishoudelike aangeleenthede en hul lewensverloop word bespreek. Die studie fokus hoofsaaklik op vroue van ou Israel en Egipte – vir ‘n goeie vergelyking. Inligting oor vroue van die ou Nabye Ooste en Mediterreense wêreld word waar van toepassing ook in aanmerking geneem. Vroue se skoonheidsmiddels, parfuums, juweliersware en kleredrag word bespreek – asook die invloed van vroue se skoonheidspraktyke op die ekonomie en handel van antieke tye. Die slot- hoofstuk maak sekere afleidings en dui enkele onderwerpe vir verdere navorsing aan. / This study addresses the limited and one-sided reporting about women and female beauty in the Hebrew Bible and other ancient literary sources, as well as the subservient position the women experience in the patriarchal Old Testament society. An archaeological approach is followed, although literary sources are also used. Attention is given to women’s position with reference to governmental, legal, religious and domestic issues, their course of life and the reasons why a beautiful and attractive appearance was important. The research focuses mainly on the women of ancient Israel and Egypt – for the purpose of comparison. Information on women of the ancient Near East and Mediterranean world is also taken into account. Women’s cosmetics, perfumes, jewelry and clothing are discussed – as well as the influence of women’s beauty practices on the economy and trade of ancient times. The final chapter makes certain deductions and some aspects are recommended for further study. / Old Testament & Ancient Near Eastern Studies / M. A. (Biblical Archaeology)

Scholarly attention to late eighteenth- and early nineteenth-century French art has focused on the importance that Johann Joachim Winckelmann attributed to the male nude figure in his definition of ideal beauty, and the impact of his work on debates over the 'beau id&eacute;al' in French art and art criticism. In contrast, Winckelmann's extensive interest in the detail of ancient costume, the folds of drapery, and the teleological and aesthetic significance that he ascribed to them, has been underplayed. The role played by costume and drapery as components of the 'beau id&eacute;al' in French art and aesthetics has also not been fully explored. This thesis examines the way in which costume and drapery formed an important component and embodiment of ideal beauty in the work of Winckelmann and in late eighteenth- and early nineteenth-century French artistic circles, providing new insights into the arguments over the meanings of Truth, Beauty and Nature in this period. The thesis proposes that ideal beauty in late eighteenth- and early nineteenth- century France was conveyed in works of art through the accurate rendering of costume and the expressive qualities of drapery in combination with the perfect form and contour of the nude body. The first part of the thesis sets up a proposition that costume and drapery formed part of the definition of ideal beauty in the work of Winckelmann. Highlighting the significance of Winckelmann's work on costume and drapery in French art theory, it demonstrates how the definition of ideal beauty in France also incorporated the accurate rendering of costume and the aesthetic impact of drapery. In demonstrating the significance of costume and drapery to both Winckelmann and French theorists it is proposed that the application of a meta-historical approach of costume and drapery to French art theory can provide new understandings and readings of the definition of ideal beauty, the hierarchy of the genres and the broader aesthetic concerns of late eighteenth- and early nineteenth- century French art. The second part of the thesis applies the proposed hermeneutic of costume and drapery to a small selection of theoretical work on the nature of ideal beauty and on a significant collection of Salon criticism. With this approach to the primary material this thesis demonstrates how French artists were able to express the 'beau id&eacute;al' within the traditional academic conventions and hierarchies, and negotiate the sense of public unease over the use of nudity in contemporary art.