The thesis focuses on the buying behavior of consumers at the dermocosmetics market in the Czech Republic with a main focus on consumers of brands Vichy, Bioderma, La Roche-Posay, Avene and Eucerin. The work is divided into two main parts, theoretical and practical. The first part is devoted to general theoretical knowledge in the field of shopping behavior of consumers, the buying decision process and its various stages. It also builds on the theoretical foundation of marketing research, its nature and process. In the practical part there is dermocosmetics market in the Czech Republic mapped together with the introduction of the above mentioned dermocosmetic brands. After secondary research follows the main part, which is the primary consumer research conducted through interviews with consumer of dermocosmetics, which is then compared with primary research of pharmacy staff selling democosmetics. The findings of the research are then formulated into practical recommendations given to the Active Cosmetics Division at L'Oréal.

The aim of this Master´s Thesis is a strategic analysis of the company Český národní podnik s.r.o. It consists of external and internal analysis on the base of the strategic recommendations are made. The thesis itself is divided into theoretical and practical part. In the first one there is described the methodology. The second one is built on practical analysis. Analysis of external environment is consists of PESTLE analysis, Porter´s model of five competitive forces and description of the field. Internal analysis is built on application of VRIO analysis, value chain analysis, financial and portfolio analysis. Synthesis is carried out using the SWOT analysis. Final strategic recommendations are focused on the supporting the strengths of the company based on SWOT analysis and exploit the perspective opportunities.

Today, in the context of globalization and Chinese "open door" policy, many different international cosmetics companies are going to the Chinese market and existing companies are trying to enlarge their appearance to earn more profit margins.The main aim for writing this thesis on this topic was to analyze Chinese cosmetics industry environment via PEST analysis and the development of the industry. It's important to select a marketing strategy when doing business in China because of the huge difference between Chinese social and business culture in the Western countries.

Orientadores: Marcos José Salvador, Inés Joekes / Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Biologia / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-24T13:48:04Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Pavani_Matheus_M.pdf: 3408518 bytes, checksum: bdb62efa906a9a04de3a371f12ecd0f0 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014 / Resumo: A fragrância de um produto cosmético é um aspecto importante para determinar seu desempenho. É crescente o emprego de produtos naturais, bem como de fragrâncias encapsuladas na indústria cosmética. Entretanto, há escassos estudos descrevendo o perfil de liberação de fragrâncias a partir de matrizes complexas, muito menos a partir de cabelos. Este trabalho investigou a interação de uma fragrância livre ou encapsulada em cabelos virgens caucasianos. Óleo essencial de capim-limão (Cymbopogon citratus DC. Stapf), livre ou encapsulado, foi empregado como fragrância em formulações de xampu e condicionador sem enxágue. O processo de encapsulação deu-se por meio de polimerização in situ da resina de melamina-formaldeído, variando-se parâmetros reacionais como velocidade de agitação, acidificação do meio e teor de óleo essencial. Os perfis de liberação da fragrância proveniente de mechas de cabelo, tratadas com as formulações obtidas, foram tomados ao longo do tempo (0 a 12 h), com amostragem por microextração em fase sólida (SPME) e análise por cromatografia gasosa acoplada à espectrometria de massas (CG-MS). A liberação das substâncias da fragrância na forma livre variou em função do tipo de formulação cosmética (xampú ou condicionador sem enxágue). Neste caso, a persistência delas na fibra capilar se correlacionaou com seus valores de coeficiente de partição óleo-água (logP). Micropartículas esféricas (dH = 9 ± 1 µm) e rendimento de processo de 86 % foram obtidos com decaimento lento de pH aliado a agitação vigorosa durante a reação de formação. Estas partículas promoveram liberação sustentada para os constituintes linalol e citral (12 e 2 vezes mais duradoura em relação à forma livre, respectivamente), mostrando um aumento da persistência da fragrância encapsulada quando inserida em formulação sem enxágue, e modificando as forças de interação cabelo¿fragrância / Abstract: Fragrance plays an important role in the performance of a cosmetic formulation. The use of natural products in the cosmetic industry as well as encapsulated fragrances is growing. However, there are few studies describing the release profile of fragrances from complex matrices, much less from Human hair. This work investigates the interaction of a fragrance composition (free or encapsulated) with un-treated Caucasian hair. Lemongrass essential oil (Cymbopogon citratus DC. Stapf) was employed as fragrance in rinse-off shampoo or leave-on formulations. Encapsulation was performed by in situ polymerization of melamine and formaldehyde monomers, changing reaction parameters such as stirring rate, pH decay, and essential oil content. Fragrance release profiles from the hair tresses treated with the abovementioned formulations were acquired over the time (0 to 12 h) with a solid phase microextraction (SPME) device, and analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). The release of free form fragrance constituents depended on the type of cosmetic formulation (shampoo or leave-on), but its persistence on hair fiber was correlated with its oil-water partition coefficient (logP) value in both cases. Spherical microparticles (dH = 9 ± 1 µm) and 86 % yield were obtained with slow pH decay combined with vigorous stirring during the encapsulation process. Sustained release of the fragrant components linalool and citral (12 times and twice longer-lasting compared to the free form, respectively) was found, showing an increased persistence of the encapsulated fragrance when inserted in the leave-on formulation and changing perfume¿hair interaction / Mestrado / Fármacos, Medicamentos e Insumos para Saúde / Mestre em Biociências e Tecnologia de Produtos Bioativos

Submitted by Nadir Basilio (nadirsb@uninove.br) on 2015-08-05T18:15:13Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Melissa Lucchi.pdf: 2748145 bytes, checksum: 1c99225dd97efcb4369bef374e64c89a (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2015-08-05T18:15:13Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Melissa Lucchi.pdf: 2748145 bytes, checksum: 1c99225dd97efcb4369bef374e64c89a (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-06-09 / Since 1985, personal characteristics are recognizes as determinants of salesperson performance, but the majority of international studies that investigate the relation between sales personal values and objective performance don’t include the sales force (vendors and sales managers) in the samples. Relating to Personal Selling firms, researches show that the personal value ‘effort’ is related to high performance. Relational values, highly present in social and informal sales contexts as the Personal Selling, are neglected, not being related to positive individual performances. Adopting the Organizational Culture as theoretical framework, this study investigates the relation between the sales force´s (Sales Executives - EVs and Beauty Consultants - CBs) personal values of the Direct Selling firm Pierre Alexander Cosmetics (PA) and individual revenues obtained by these professionals. This was accomplished by the use of direct observations and the C-VAT Methodology (Culture and Values Analysis Tool) and the PVP questionnaire (Personal Values Profile), that 415 PA members answered between 2012 and 2014. The answers were analyzed by the Cluster Analysis Technique and show a Company composed by women that are more than 40 years of age and work at PA for more than 15 years. Their values are strong in Work and effort is the main one, united to work quality and to relational dimensions as loyalty, empathy and sociability. In a second moment, the relation between personal values and individual revenues of the sales force in the year 2013 was interpreted by frequency distribution methods. This research concluded that personal values related to Work are fundamental to obtain high individual performance from the CBs (sellers). On the other hand, relational values are most important to motivate the EV’s (coordinator) team of sellers. Differing from what affirms the literature on the area, personal values that help in sales differ from personal values that base the motivation of others to sales (EVs objective). / Desde 1985, os fatores pessoais são reconhecidos como determinantes do desempenho de vendedores, porém a maioria dos estudos internacionais que investiga a relação entre valores pessoais de vendedores e desempenho objetivo não inclui a força de vendas (vendedores e gerentes de venda) nas amostras. No que se refere a empresas de Venda Direta (VD), pesquisas apontam que o valor pessoal ‘esforço’ está relacionado à obtenção de altos faturamentos. Valores relacionais, altamente presentes em contextos de venda sociais e informais como a VD são negligenciados, não sendo relacionados a desempenhos individuais positivos. Utilizando a Cultura Organizacional como aporte teórico, esta pesquisa investiga a relação entre valores pessoais da força de vendas (Executivas de Vendas - EVs e Consultoras de Beleza - CBs) da empresa de Venda Direta Pierre Alexander Cosméticos (PA) e faturamentos individuais dessas profissionais. Para tanto, utilizou-se de observação direta e da metodologia C-VAT (Culture and Values Analysis Tool), com o questionário fechado PVP (Perfil de Valores Pessoais) aplicado, entre 2012 e 2014, a 415 membros da PA. As respostas, analisadas por meio da Técnica de Análise de Clusters, mostram uma Empresa composta por mulheres com mais de 40 anos de idade, em sua maioria, há 15 anos ou mais na PA. Seus valores são fortes em Trabalho, sendo o esforço o principal, unido à qualidade no trabalho e a dimensões relacionais como lealdade, empatia e sociabilidade. Em um segundo momento, a relação entre valores pessoais e faturamentos individuais da força de vendas no ano de 2013 foi interpretada por métodos de distribuição de frequência. Concluiu-se que valores pessoais ligados a Trabalho são fundamentais para a obtenção de altos faturamentos individuais por parte das CBs (vendedoras), ao passo que valores relacionais são mais importantes para motivar a equipe de vendas das EVs (coordenadoras). Diferindo do que afirma a literatura da área, valores pessoais que auxiliam nas vendas diferem, portanto, de valores pessoais que embasam a motivação de outros para a venda (objetivo das EVs).

In recent years, new classes of aquatic pollutants have received growing concerns from the environmentalists due to their unclear effects and increasing release into the water environment. Generally, before entering the aquatic ecosystem, many of these emerging contaminants are deemed safe active ingredients in the commercial products. This may lead to the underestimation of their potential impacts to the environment, once these substances were drained into the natural waters. So far, a wide range of emerging contaminants are still not well studied. In this thesis work, the environmental behaviors for two typical groups of emerging contaminants, which are frequently used in personal care products, are systematically probed in the aquatic ecosystem. One is the hydrophilic compounds - artificial sweeteners and the other one is the moderate hydrophobic compounds - ultraviolet (UV) filters. Acesulfame and sucralose are two of the most commonly used artificial sweeteners, which are a newly recognized class of emerging contaminants due to their widespread occurrence and extreme persistence in water environment. To date, however, their environmental behaviors, fates as well as long term ecotoxicological contributions in our water resources still remain largely unknown. In this work, a photodegradation investigation with UV/TiO2 was performed on these two artificial sweeteners, which projected their potential impacts under prolonged exposure to intensive solar irradiation. Real-time observation of the degradation profiles in both sweeteners illustrated that formation of new photo by-products under prolonged UV irradiation is highly viable. For the first time, acute toxicity for the degradates of these two sweeteners were measured and the enhancement in their ecotoxicity has been observed during the irradiation. In an attempt to neutralize this prolonged environmental threat, the feasibility of UV/TiO2 as an effective mineralization process in wastewater treatment was evaluated for both sweeteners. As a result, relatively higher removal efficiencies for acesulfame and sucralose were achieved in this study. For UV filters, a comprehensive investigation on their environmental behaviors and impacts was described in this thesis, covering the occurrence study in surface water and biota, environmental fate and their ecological risks. In the first step, an analytical method based on ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS) was developed for the simultaneous determination of twelve UV filters in the environmental waters, which achieved good sensitivity to sub-ng/L levels. To monitoring their occurrence in local marine environment, the regional distribution of these sunscreen compounds was monitored along the coastline of Hong Kong. At the same time, considering the intensive consumption of sunscreen products in hot weathers, seasonal variation of UV filters between summer and winter was taken into consideration in our occurrence study. Additionally, we also monitored their occurrence in the drinking water supply system of Hong Kong, including the source water in Dongjiang, raw water in local reservoirs and tap water collected from urban communities, to support a good management on the reliable water supply. Furthermore, the distribution results indicated that the incomplete removal of UV filters in the effluents could be a major source for their release into the environmental waters. Aiming to achieve the complete removal of such compounds, a powerful technique of ozonation was employed in this study and the preliminary operational conditions were further provided. Secondly, in order to gain a better understanding of their environmental fate in surface water, a simulative catalytic photodegradation study with UV/TiO2 were performed to investigate the photostability, phototoxicity and the transformation pathways of seven selected UV filters. During the photodegradation, several transformation products were primarily identified. Thirdly, since lipophilic sunscreens were easily accumulated in the biota, we also made efforts to monitor their occurrence in marine organisms of different species, including farmed fish, wild mussels, prawns and sea urchin, which were collected from local offshore areas. Last but not the least, according to the measured concentrations of UV filters in Hong Kong marine environment, we further performed the ecological risk assessment with the approach specific to the marine aquatic compartment, so as to provide the overall understanding on the environmental impacts of these UV filters.

The aim of this diploma thesis is to propose a recipe of natural BB-creams with the desired properties (different color shades, that will be suitable for Central European skin type; flow properties, texture, spreadability, stability). The experimental part of the thesis is mainly focused on the development of BB-cream formulas. Several different formulations with diverse dispersion medium (water and aloe vera/water in a suitable ratio) have been proposed, and three different shades of BB-cream have been developed. The flow properties (viscosity) of the samples were measured, accelerated stability tests were realized by using the dispersion analyzer LUMISizer, the obtained results were correlated with the results of stress temperature tests. The results of the rheological analysis showed that the flow properties of the creams are comparable with commercially available preparations. Stress temperature tests have shown that prepared samples remain stable over 4 cycles (12 weeks) of changing storage temperature, accelerated destabilization tests performed by LUMISizer confirmed their stability. The colour coordinates of the developed shades were measured using a spectrophotometer and compared with commercial analogues. Also the questionnaire for sensory evaluation of preparations for more comprehensive analysis of prepared BB-creams was developed. The 25 female respondents of different ages participated in servey. The results of sensory evaluation showed that textural properties of developed creams are satisfactory for potential consumers.

The aim of the diploma thesis was to provide an overview of the prevalence of allergenic and potentially allergenic metals in eye shadows. The diploma thesis gives an overview of the legislation on cosmetics and description of the types of allergenic reactions caused by allergenic and potential allergenic metals in eye shadows. Listed below are the preparation methods of the samples for analysis and the list of the methods by which can the selected metals be analyzed. The experimental part of the diploma thesis deals with an analysis of selected allergenic and potentially allergenic metals in eye shadows. In the experimental part of diploma thesis method of sample preparation for analysis of eye shadows and a method of analysis of sample of eye shadows by ICP-MS have been optimized. Monitored analytes were selected metals. Altogether 6 samples of eye shadows from different manufacturers were chosen. Measured results have been statistically processed, confronted with the applicable legislation and assessed in terms of possible allergic reactions.

The subject of the master´s thesis is a design of polyfunctional residential building. The residential building is partly basament and has four floors and ten flats. Two flats are maisonettes. On the first floor are a cosmetics salon and a massages salon. The thesis contains a dispositional and building construction design and elaboration of the given part of implementary project documentation.

Cette thèse de doctorat a été réalisée dans le cadre du projet NATUBAVAL visant à découvrir de nouveaux conservateurs naturels pour l’industrie cosmétique, à partir de plantes issues d’un des hotspots mondiaux de biodiversité : le bassin méditerranéen. Dix-sept extraits ont ainsi été obtenus et évalués quant à leurs propriétés antimicrobiennes contre Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Aspergillus brasiliensis et Candida albicans, ainsi que leur capacité antioxydante. Santolina chamaecyparissus a démontré des propriétés remarquables, et a été sélectionnée pour une étude plus approfondie. Une approche par fractionnement bioguidé a permis l’isolement du composé majoritaire de la fraction la plus active, également identifié comme actif : un spirokétal énol connu de la famille des polyacétylènes. Une optimisation de l’extrait brut d’intérêt a alors été entreprise dans le but de maximiser son activité et de faire face au challenge d’une transposition industrielle et de son incorporation dans un produit cosmétique. En définitive, cette étude introduit une stratégie de développement d’un ingrédient naturel pouvant potentiellement être utilisé comme une alternative aux conservateurs de synthèse dans les produits cosmétiques. / This PhD thesis is part of the NATUBAVAL project that aims at discovering new natural preservatives for the cosmetics industry, issued from one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots: the Mediterranean Basin. Seventeen plant extracts were obtained and screened for their antimicrobial properties against Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Aspergillus brasiliensis and Candida albicans and their antioxidant capacity. Santolina chamaecyparissus extract was found to present superior properties and selected for further investigation. A bioguided fractionation permitted to isolate the major compound of the most active fraction, that was identified as the active compound, a known spiroketal enol from the polyacetylenes family. An optimization of the crude extract of interest was then performed in order to maximize its activity and to face the challenge of an industrial scale-up and its incorporation in a cosmetic formulation. Finally, this study introduces a natural ingredient development strategy that might potentially be used as an alternative to synthetic preservatives in cosmetics.