In my thesis, I focus on delineating 'The Cynic Sensibility' in British Popular Literature and Culture (1950-1987). Focusing primarily on literature and music (and, to a lesser extent, cinema/television), this works seeks to write a cultural history through analysing cultural texts. The sensibility has three key characteristics: I) it is a Bohemian sensibility; ii) it is apolitical, in that it does not endorse any political alternative to the status quo at any given time, and iii) it is popular, and exists across traditional high/low cultural lines. Connected to this last point is a tendency to oppose stylistic Modernism and its attendant obscurities. Underpinning my thesis are the work of the philosopher Peter Sloterdijk on cynicism as a philosophical phenomenon, and the cultural theory of Raymond Williams. Using this approach, I seek to not only connect spheres of culture which hitherto have been kept separate, but to provide a different insight into 20th century British cultural history.

Dissertation (PhD)--Stellenbosch University, 2001. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: Female apparel shopping behaviour in a multi-cultural consumer society is a complex phenomenon. This study set out to identify the variables that influence female apparel shopping behaviour in a multi-cultural consumer society and to determine whether distinct clusters of female apparel shoppers could be identified. Three theoretical models from the two study disciplines, Consumer Behaviour and Clothing and Textiles, were investigated, i.e. the Sproles Model of Fashion Adoption, the Engel-Blackwell-Miniard Model of Consumer Decision-Process Behaviour and De Klerk's Clothing Consumer Decision-making Model. These models were synthesised and developed further into a new conceptual theoretical model of variables influencing female apparel shopping behaviour in a multi-cultural consumer society. The Macro conceptual theoretical model presented the variables under market dominated variables, market and consumer interaction variables and consumer dominated variables. The scope of the study was delimited by the choice of two primary variables under each classification, for further investigation. The variables investigated were: the place of distribution, the apparel product, shopping orientation, patronage behaviour, socio-cultural influences (family, lifestyle and culture) and demographics. An overview of the South African apparel industry was provided and future trends in retailing were highlighted. Literature on shopping orientation as a variable was extensively studied, resulting in a proposed new classification system. Lifestyle and cultural consciousness, i.e. the individualist and collectivist orientation, and the impact thereof on female apparel shopping behaviour were investigated. Data for this exploratory study were generated by means of a store-intercept research method. A questionnaire was developed and trained fieldworkers undertook in-store interviews with approximately eight hundred female apparel shoppers representative of three population groups, African/black, coloured and white. The data analysis yielded acceptable questionnaire reliability and multivariate statistics showed shopping orientation and lifestyle to be multi-dimensional constructs with three components each. The three shopping orientation components were labelled shopping selfconfidence and enjoyment; credit-prone, brand-conscious and fashion innovator and local store patronage. A Yuppie lifestyle, apparel-orientated lifestyle and a traditional lifestyle were the three labels ascribed to the lifestyle components. Three clusters of female apparel shoppers were formed by means of cluster analysis, according to the three components of lifestyle and shopping orientation respectively, the two cultural consciousness scales and eleven patronage behaviour items. A demographic profile of each cluster completed the typology of the three female apparel shopper groups. Group one was the largest (49%) and was labelled Actualisers. Group two (28%) was labelled Strugglers and group three (22%) Aspirationals. The female apparel shopper could therefore be successfully segmented into distinct market segments with statistically significant differences in profiles. The profiles showed similarities to international and South African typology research. The results are presented in a conceptual model. The following main implications for manufacturers, marketers, retailers, researchers, educators and students can be stated: .:. Knowledge regarding consumers will be of paramount importance for survival in the competitive and more globally orientated 21st century . •:. The female apparel market is not homogeneous. Different groups of consumers require different types of products and will evaluate them differently. Modern technology such as CAD, EDI, QR and CIM should be implemented to assist stakeholders in this regard. Fashion changes rapidly and if the window of opportunity is not seized, it is lost . •:. Different advertising and marketing strategies are necessary to reach the various female apparel shopper groups. Special attention should be given to advertising approaches and media vehicles that will gain the attention of the various groups . •:. Electronic retailing and marketing will form a large part of future retailing and marketing activities. Stakeholders should be geared towards seizing these opportunities for growth. .:. Researchers, educators and students will benefit from the application of the Conceptual Theoretical Model - a Macro perspective. It could provide a conceptual framework for curriculum development, be used as an evaluation tool and assist in the understanding of the complexities of variables impacting on female apparel shopping behaviour in a multi-cultural consumer society. Recommendations for future research were made in order to encourage researchers to research the complex nature of female apparel shopping behaviour in a multi-cultural consumer society scientifically. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Vroueklere aankoopgedrag in 'n multi-kulturele verbruikersgemeenskap is 'n komplekse fenomeen. Hierdie studie poog om die veranderlikes wat vroueklere aankoopgedrag in 'n multi-kulturele verbruikersgemeenskap beïnvloed, te identifiseer en om te bepaal of onderskeibare groepe vroulike verbruikers geïdentifiseer kan word. Drie teoretiese modelle vanuit die twee dissiplines, naamlik Verbruikersgedrag en Kleding en Tekstiele, is ondersoek, naamlik: die Sproles Model van Modeaanvaarding (Sproles Model of Fashion Adoption), die Engel-Blackwell-Miniard model van Verbruikersbesluitnemingsproses-gedrag (Engel-Blackwell-Miniard Model of Consumer Decision-Process Behaviour) asook De Klerk se Kledingverbruikerbesluitnemingsmodel. (De Klerk's Clothing Consumer Decision-making Model). Hierdie modelle is gesintetiseer en verder ontwikkel tot 'n nuwe konseptueie teoretiese model van veranderlikes wat vroueklere-aankoopgedrag in 'n multi-kulturele verbruikersgemeenskap beïnvloed. Die Makro konseptueie teoretiese model orden veranderlikes onder mark-gedomineerde veranderlikes, mark- en verbruiker-interaksie-veranderlikes en verbruiker-gedomineerde veranderlikes. Die omvang van die studie is begrens deur die keuse van twee primêre veranderlikes onder elke groepering vir verdere studie. Die bestudeerde veranderlikes sluit die volgende in: plek van distribusie, die klereproduk, aankooporiëntasie, winkelvoorkeurgedrag, sosio-kulturele invloede (familie, lewenstyl en kultuur) asook demografie. 'n Oorsig van die Suid-Afrikaanse kledingindustrie word gegee en toekomstige tendense in die kleinhandel word uitgelig. Literatuur rakende aankooporiëntasie as veranderlike is breedvoerig bestudeer en resulteer in 'n nuwe klassifikasie stelsel. Lewenstyl en kulturele bewustheid, nl. die individualistiese versus kollektivistiese oriëntasie, en die impak daarvan op vroue se klere-aankoopgedrag is ondersoek. Data vir hierdie verkennende navorsing is verkry deur respondente in winkels te nader (store-intercept research method). Vir hierdie eksploratiewe studie is 'n vraelys ontwikkel en opgeleide veldwerkers het onderhoude (binne winkels) met ongeveer aghonderd vroue klereverbruikers, verteenwoordigend van drie populasie groepe, nl. Swart, Kleurling en Blank gevoer. Die data ontleding dui op aanvaarbare vraelys betroubaarheid. Die meervoudige veranderlike statistiek resultate toon aan dat aankooporiëntasie en lewenstyl multi-dimensionele konstrukte is, met onderskeidelik drie komponente elk. Die drie aankooporiëntasie komponente is benoem as aankoop selfvertroue en genot (shopping self-confidence and enjoyment); krediet geneigdheid, handelsmerk bewustheid sowel as mode innoveerder (credit prone, brand conscious and fashion innovator) en plaaslike winkelvoorkeur (local store patronage). Die Yuppie lewenstyl (Yuppie lifestyle); klere georienteerde lewenstyl (apparel orientated lifestyle) en tradisionele lewenstyl (traditional lifestyle) was die drie name wat aan die lewenstyle komponente toegeskryf is. Drie groepe vroulike klere aankopers is gevorm met behulp van trosanalise. Die trosanalise is gedoen op grond van die drie komponente van lewenstyl en aankooporiëntasie onderskeidelik, die twee kulturele bewustheid skale en die elf winkelvoorkeur gedrag items. Die tipering van die drie groepe is aangevul deur 'n demografiese profiel. Groep een was die grootste (49%) en is genoem Aktualiseerders (Actualisers). Groep twee (28%) is genoem Sukkelaars (StruggIers) en groep drie (22%) Aspireerders (Aspirationals). Die vroulike klere aankoper kon derhalwe suksesvol gesegmenteer word in duidelik onderskeibare segmente met statisties beduidende verskille in die profiele. Die profiele toon ooreenkomste met internasionale en Suid-Afrikaanse tipologie navorsing. konseptueie model. Die resultate word aangetoon in 'n Die volgende hoof implikasies vir vervaardigers, bemarkers, kleinhandelaars, navorsers, opvoedkundiges en studente kan gestel word: .:. Kennis rakende verbruikers sal krities wees vir oorlewing in die kompeterende en globaal georiënteerde 21ste eeu. •:. Die vroue klere mark is nie homogeen nie. Verskillende groepe verbruikers vereis verskillende tipes produkte en sal dit derhalwe verskillende evalueer. Moderne tegnologie soos rekenaar gesteunde ontwerp, elektroniese data interaksie, vinnige respons en rekenaar geintegreerde vervaardiging moet geïmplimenteer word ten einde alle belanghebbendes te ondersteun in hierdie verband. Mode verander vinnig en indien geleenthede nie aangegryp word nie, is dit verlore . •:. Verskillende bemarking en reklame strategieë is nodig ten einde die verskillende groepe vroue klere verbruikers te bereik. Spesifieke aandag moet geskenk word aan die advertensie aanslag en media voertuie wat die aandag van die onderskeie groepe sal trek . •:. Elektroniese kleinhandel en bemarking sal 'n groot komponent van die toekomstige kleinhandel en bemarkingsaktiwiteite beslaan. Belanghebbendes moet ingestel wees om hierdie geleenthede vir groei aan te gryp . •:. Navorsers, opvoeders en studente sal voordeel trek uit die toepassing van die Konseptueie Teoretiese Model - 'n Makro Perspektief. Hierdie model kan dien as 'n konseptueie raamwerk waarbinne kurrikulering kan plaasvind, asook aangewend word as evaluasie instrument. Die model kan ook hulp verleen ten einde die komplekse aard van die veranderlikes wat vroue klere aankoopgedrag beïnvloed in 'n multi-kulturele verbruikergemeenskap, te verstaan. Aanbevelings vir verdere navorsing word gemaak ten einde toekomstige navorsers aan te moedig om op 'n wetenskaplik verantwoordbare wyse die komplekse aard van vroueklere-aankoopgedrag binne 'n multi-kulturele verbruikersgemeenskap, na te vors.

This is a study about the ways in which pictures can be interpreted and the ways in which they are interpreted; the latter, specifically, in a relatively remote part of Peru. Chapter II reviews an assortment of picture tests which bring to light differences in the ways pictures are perceived. Chapter III examines the specific cultural context in which a fairly informal picture test was administered. Chapter IV presents some results and asks what cultural and situational factors may have contributed to the variety in interpretations evident. The drawing of firm conclusions is precluded by the absence of any systematic approach to the interpretations or to the pictures themselves, and it is this which the second half of the study attempts to remedy; by providing a theoretical framework for the assessment of verbalized responses to pictures. Chapter V offers a definition of "picture" and locates it within a typology of indices. It also examines the notion of "visual resemblance", eventually adopting the view that any picture is infinitely ambiguous. Chapter VI introduces two methodological necessities consequent on this ambiguity: a stipulation as to the identity and the taxonomic specificity of any signified object; and a stipulation as to the spatial extension of its signifier. No other methodological content is presented. Chapter VII classifies types of verbalized responses in terms of their visual motivation, and the degree to which they interrelate the stipulated pictorial units. Chapter VIII acknowledges that signification may continue beyond the representational level. Further, postrepresentational, types of responses are classified in terms of the nature of the link maintained with the representational signified.

published_or_final_version / Industrial and Manufacturing Systems Engineering / Doctoral / Doctor of Philosophy

published_or_final_version / Business / Master / Master of Philosophy

This thesis focuses on the use of feminist humor as a method of coalition building among African American women. It is motivated by the central question: what are the ways in which comedic performances may act as both a rebellious counter to dominant views of women of color in the United States and a way to articulate feminist ideologies? More specifically, I am interested in how African American women utilize comedy to articulate specific standpoints and build solidarity. As comedy is often used to persuade and perhaps bond audiences, it is important to continue research in the rhetoric of humor—especially that which takes into account comedy that challenges hegemonic systems and builds cohesion among oppressed groups. I wish to address ways in which theories of humor may work to include not only feminist modes comedy, but performances that also address the intersections of oppressions—including race, class, sexuality, etc. I will be examining the 2001 film The Queens of Comedy starring standup comedians Laura Hayes, Adele Givens, Sommore, and Mo’Nique. A follow-up on the 2000 movie and live standup tour The Original Kings of Comedy, the film depicts the four women’s comedic routines at the Orpheum Theatre in front of a predominately Black and predominately female audience. I argue that the Queens’ use of humor acts as a method to articulate intersections of oppression from a Black female perspective. This creates a specific counterpublic space, defies dominant views of Black American women and fosters cohesion among sympathetic audiences. The first chapter works towards a theory of feminist humor—one that builds off of current comedy research by integrating radical feminist thought (mostly that of Black feminisms). Chapter two identifies anti-feminist dimensions of the Queens’ performances in order to understand unsuccessful (and perhaps harmful) methods of rhetorical humor. Chapter three closely examines dimensions of the Queens’ performances that articulate Black feminist thought and how those performances encourage coalition building among Black women. Chapter four will draw critical implications and address concerns for those interested in humor as a method of encouraging social stability and change. / text

This thesis applies a feminist theoretical perspective to interrogate discourses of postfeminism, as well as the position of the female body, fitness, and resistance within contemporary American culture. I argue that women’s fitness blogs are a vehicle for the production of Rosalind Gill’s “postfeminist sensibility,” focusing specifically on fitness bloggers’ use of self-surveillance and monitoring, personal transformation or “makeovers”, and intensified consumerism. Using ideological textual analysis of several fitness blogs as case studies, I examine the ways in which women publicly negotiate their relationships with their body through the documentation and disclosure of their food and exercise lifestyles. This thesis also acknowledges the feminist potential of fitness blogs as spaces in which women may strive towards body positivity and recovery from eating disorders, as well as challenge cultural expectations regarding female body and appetite. / text

The purpose of this study was to determine the prevalence of known etiological factors in mildly mentally handicapped students across minority and nonminority groups and to examine the similarities of these patterns. A comparison of early diagnoses was also made. The total population of all children labeled Educable Mentally Handicapped (EMH) and attending regular elementary schools within one of the largest districts in the southwest served as the sample for the present study. There were 128 children, 64 minorities and 64 nonminorities. The student records were reviewed for data regarding etiological factors, previous diagnoses and early medical factors. A pilot study which involved administering a questionnaire to a sample to twenty-eight social workers was conducted to ascertain the validity of obtained data. Eight specific hypotheses were addressed. A Chi-Square analysis yielded information about the patterns of category similarities (congenital, prenatal, perinatal, postnatal and familial), between two groups as well as the presence of professional diagnosis. A set of five factorial analysis of variance were performed to examine the impact of age, number of symptoms, presence of professional diagnosis and length of hospital stay on IQ scores of children in both groups. A discriminant function analysis was performed to determine the discriminatory power of four variables (IQ, length of hospital stay, number of symptoms and presence of professional diagnosis). The prevalence of perinatal and postnatal symptoms and diagnoses occurred with high frequency for both groups. Congenital factors occurred significantly more for the nonminority group. The findings indicated that there were no significant differences across minority and nonminority groups in terms of intellectual functioning due to the impact of the four previously mentioned variables. Consistent with the ANOVA results, the information obtained from the discriminant function analysis suggests similarity of the two groups in terms of the four variables. The results were discussed in relation to the utility of early etiological information and the importance of such research. The implications of such findings for placement of children in general in these classes or for the children from minority groups in particular, were emphasized.

In the present effort, the philosopher Henri Bergson’s (1859-1941) seminal philosophical work functions as a revitalizing force and even an implicit point of departure for the more urban-oriented critique of Henri Lefebvre’s (1901-1991) watershed text L’Producción de l’espace/The Production of Space (1974). Both Lefebvre and Bergson in fact share a common perception of space—it is neither a static ground, nor an apriori condition of experience as Kant argued, but is instead a process inseparable from time and implicated in thought itself. Grounded in this resulting novel understanding of space, time and difference, I use an interdisciplinary approach to analyze Madrid’s cultural imaginary through novels by Belén Gopegui (1992), Pío Baroja (1911) and Luis Martín-Santos (1961); films by Carlos Saura (1996), Alejandro Amenábar (1997), and American Jim Jarmusch (1992); and the urban space of Madrid’s Retiro Park. The purpose of this work is twofold. On the one hand it is an attempt to reconcile the spatial issues of concern to cultural or human geography with an approach to social life grounded in the humanities. On the other it is a call for a deeper understanding of methodology taken in its widest sense. The former seeks not only to introduce spatial questions to the analysis of literature and film but also to articulate the intimate relation of cultural products to the urban processes in which they are formed, interpreted and sold. The latter requires an investigation of the philosophical preconceptions that structure our spatial practice and interpretation, as well as an awareness of the consequences these preconceptions hold—not only for understanding our common world, but also for producing it and finally for the possibility of changing it through action. These twin purposes—bringing geographical concerns into the humanities and assessing the philosophical bases of our spatial production and interpretation—are not so far removed. Through a careful reading of the above key literary, filmic and urban texts from twentieth century Madrid, this work explores the important consequences of conceiving of space as simultaneously mental and physical. In the Bergsonian fashion, these explorations seek to dispense with the stagnant and irreconcilable philosophical tropes of both pure materialism and pure idealism in order to yield a more precise understanding of cultural forms as living processes.

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