The sorting and transport of different sediment fractions and the resulting beachface evolution over the swash zone of a beach, is numerically investigated within the framework of the shallow water theory and the active layer theory. The shallow water and Exner equations, along with the volume fraction (sorting) equation given by the active layer theory compose the system which is numerically solved using an uncoupled approach, i.e., the model assumes that changes in bed level (and volume fraction) do not have an effect on the flow. Two different numerical methods are applied to solve the system depending on the type of flow tested (constant current or swash flow); a classic Finite Differences Method and a hybrid Finite Difference-Method of Characteristics (FD-MOC) are then used respectively. The numerical model is first tested for the case of a sand dune composed of two different sediment fractions subjected to a constant current. Comparison between simulations from the model and results given by Hudson (2001) solution (which only considers one sediment fraction) showed that the composition of the bed is crucial for the subsequent bed evolution. This case served to verify that the equations were solved correctly and some interesting features of the kinematics of the system were observed. The model is then applied to the case in which a single Shen and Meyer (1963b) swash event acts over a plane sloping beach composed of two different sediment fractions in the same proportion. Different values of the A (sediment mobility parameter) are investigated taking as a base point the value calculated by Kelly (2009). The results show that the behaviour in time of Pfa (fine volume fraction in the active layer) directly depends on the difference between sediment mobility parameters (Af and Ac) for the fine and coarse fractions; and this in turn results in an effect on the beachface evolution. The finer the mixture of sediments involved the bigger the bed change. Similar behaviour is obtained when the model is tested for the case in which a non-breaking wave swash is acting over the beach profile, although some interesting differences are noted mainly due to the different driving hydrodynamics.Finally, realistic A parameters for the fine and coarse fraction are defined linking grain diameters that can be found on real beaches to the sediment parameters used in the model.Numerical tests for both type of swash flows (breaking and non-breaking wave) are implemented, in which different initial Pfa distributions are considered. The results from these simulations confirmed the crucial role played by the initial distribution of sediments on the beach evolution; it was observed that a kink in the bed (a sort of swash bar/trough) formed around the middle part of the swash zone for the cases in which the initial distribution of sediments showed a maximum or minimum in that area. Comparing the results given by the model when two sediment fractions are considered, with those when a mean value (A¯ = (Af+Ac) / 2 )which is a common practice in coastal engineering models) showed that the inclusion of the two sediment fractions is crucial in order to get better predictions.

The critical conditions for incipient sediment motion induced by oscillating-grid generated turbulence interacting with a sloping sediment layer were investigated experimentally. Near-spherical monodisperse sediments were used throughout with relative densities of 1.2 and 2.5 and mean diameters(d)ranging between 80 and 1087 μm. Interaction characteristics were analysed in terms of the critical Shields parameter θc, defined using the peak root mean square (r.m.s) horizontal velocity component in the near-bed region. Bed slope effects on θc were investigated by tilting the bed (and the grid) at angles between 0 and the repose limit. In all cases, the grid was aligned to be parallel to the bed surface, so that the oscillation direction is always normal to bed surface. The measured values of θc on a horizontal bed were comparable to the values reported in the traditional Shields diagram with θc seen to increase monotonically for hydraulically smooth bedforms and to be approximately constant for hydraulically rough bedforms. To account for bed slope effects, the measured values of θc were compared with a force-balance model based on the conditions for incipient grain motion on a sloping bed. For hydraulically smooth bedforms, where the bed roughness is small compared to the boundary-layer depth, the model was derived to account for how viscous stresses act to damp the drag and lift forces acting on the near surface sediment. For hydraulically rough bedforms, where this viscous-damping effect is not present, the model assumes the standard approach with the drag and lift forces scaling with the square of the near-bed (inviscid)velocity scale. In both cases the model predicts the bedforms to become more mobile as the bed slope is increased. However, the damping effect of the viscous sublayer acts as a stabilizing influenced for hydraulically smooth bedforms, to reduce the rate at which the bed mobility increases with bed slope. The measured values of θc in the hydraulically rough bedforms were in agreement with the trends predicted by this model. However, measured θc in smooth bed cases were lower than predicted, and fall on the hydraulically rough trend when bed slope is < 20. When the bed slope reaches the repose limit, θc falls between the smooth-bed and rough-bed cases. Measurements of sediment trajectories due to the turbulence interacting with the bed were obtained, for a range of impact conditions. Observations of the sediment trajectories during the interaction show the individual sediment grains to be predominantly displaced in a circular 'splash'. Data showed that the ‘splash’ feature and particle entrainment within the turbulence structure was within one eddy turnover time.

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The results of laboratory experiments are described, relating to aspects of hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics under second-order Stokes type waves (or flows), of varying degrees of asymmetry. The majority of the measurements related to laminar and/or transitional flow conditions and were made using an oscillating trolley apparatus. The transition to turbulence over smooth beds has been reported previously in terms of a (single) critical flow amplitude Reynolds number, Recrit=U∞a/ν. On the basis of observations undertaken using sinusoidal flows (Li, 1954) and during the present study, this is found to be the case for wave periods of T>3.5s, where mean Recrit=1.66×105. However, for T<3.5s, it is shown that Recrit decreases in proportion to T. On the basis of the observations made by Li (1954), Manohar (1955) and during the present study, transition over rough (granular) beds is described by Recrit=c(a/D), where c is a coefficient that, for relatively fine sediment (D<275μm), is a linear function of T; for relatively coarse sediment (D>421μm), it is a linear function of D. At large values of Recrit, corresponding to longer wave periods together with relatively small bed roughness length-scales, the observed values deviate from the rough-bed relationship and tend towards the smooth-bed limiting value. Flow asymmetry acts to stabilise the boundary layer, increasing either the critical boundary Reynolds number RE 2ν /ω ν crit c =U (in the case of smooth beds), or Recrit (in the case of rough beds), following a non-linear relationship. Regulating mechanisms are proposed by which the transition to turbulence is governed over (relatively) smooth and/or rough beds. Of principle importance is the balance between the stabilising effect of fluid acceleration and the destabilising effects of vertical gradients in the horizontal velocity (thought to be important in regulating transition over a smooth-bed) and localised eddy formation around individual grains on the bed (similarly over rough beds). The threshold of motion for non-cohesive, sand-sized sediment is expressed typically as a critical bed shear stress amplitude, τo, relative to the resistant properties of individual grains (due to gravity). On this basis, numerous critical shear stress (e.g. the well known approach of Shields, 1936) and velocity amplitude relationships have been presented elsewhere. Previously, Voulgaris et al. (1995) have identified that a higher τo is required to cause threshold at smaller wave periods. On the basis of a large number of observations undertaken (elsewhere, and as part of the present study) using similar equipment, a negative linear relationship has been established between T and τo; this becomes progressively more significant, for threshold occurring under larger values of Re (into the transitional regime). Flow asymmetry has the effect of increasing τo crit; however, the critical orbital diameter for given conditions remains approximately constant, irrespective of the asymmetry. Using these data, in combination with detailed observations of the phase of the onset and the subsequent duration of sediment motion, it is suggested that (especially under (near) laminar flows) the threshold of motion is in response to a ‘time-‘ or ‘phase-mean’ shear stress, corresponding to some form of cumulative force. In addition, under turbulent or partially turbulent flow conditions, the stochastic distribution of the instantaneous shear stress is broader under waves of larger T and/or smaller R; this permits similarity in the occurrence of high-shear events, over a range of conditions. However, the mean τ0 crit decreases. Hence, an artefact or anomalous decrease is included, at longer wave periods, in the (time-mean) peak value of τo crit used to represent such flows.

Στόχος της εργασίας αυτής είναι η δημιουργία ενός συγκεντρωτικού χάρτη, ο οποίος απεικονίζει βαρυτικά γεγονότα στην περιοχή του Κορινθιακού κόλπου. Με βάση τα δεδομένα που πάρθηκαν από την έρευνα που πραγματοποιήθηκε το 1983 με το σκάφος Discovery με τη χρήση του τομογράφου υποδομής πυθμένα και του ηχοβολιστή πλευρικής σάρωσης, καθώς και την επεξεργασία αυτών με το λογισμικό πρόγραμμα GIS, δημιουργήθηκε ένας χάρτης ταξινόμησης των υποθαλάσσιων βαρυτικών γεγονότων. Βάσει αυτού οδηγούμαστε σε συμπεράσματα ως προς τη συχνότητα εμφάνισης, τη γεωγραφική κατανομή αλλά και το είδος των βαρυτικών γεγονότων που εντοπίστηκαν στις καταγραφές. / This work deals with the gravitative submarine mass movements in the seismically active graben; the Gulf of Corinth. The main objective of this work is to create a detailed map of the submarine mass movements of the Gulf of Corinth based on seismic data. The seismic data, consisting of side scan sonar and subbottom profiling records, was collected in 1983 in the framework of a research cruise of the research vessel Discovery. The interpretation of the seismic data was based on certain acoustic criteria and the results were processed with GIS software led to the construction of a classified map. This paper tries to demonstrate the frequency of display, the geological distribution and the type of mass movements, based on the collected seismic data.

The influence of channel morphology and hydraulics on sediment transport within steep upland streams is investigated. Step-pools are the most common bedform in such streams. Bedload transport processes operating in a perennial step-pool stream in central England are established using magnetically-tagged particles and bedload pit samplers. Water-surface slope in two step-pool streams is monitored in detail. Water-surface slope measurements show that step-pool bedforms cause large spatial variations in flow depth during floods, and that the temporal variation of watersurface slope during a flood wave differs diametrically from the pattern found in lowgradient rivers that have little roughness. These results demonstrate that it is difficult to estimate the forces acting on the streambed in steep, rough streams and, therefore, conventionally established flow variables cannot be used to predict bedload transport . rates in step-pool channels. Particle tracing experiments are used to determine the control that step-pool morphology and flow hycfraulics have on particle displacements. Step-pool streams exhibit smaller particle travel distance per flood event than low-gradient rivers. This difference reflects the greater flow resistance and bed rugosity of step-pool streams. Bed morphology dictates flood particle displacement at step-pool bedform scale. It is shown that entrainment, pool export rates and transport distances of coarse sediment are dependent on downstream step dimensions, step permeability and pool form. Large variations in bedload transport rates at any given flow strength are associated with variable sediment supply, and particle tracing demonstrates that sediment availability is controlled at unit pool scale. Bedload consists of fine gravel moving over a stable bed surface at low discharges, while, at higher discharges, bedload coarsens, approaching the size of the pool bed material as the bed surface is partially mobilized. Step framework clasts are stable features of the streambed. Results from this study are incorporated into a descriptive model of discharge-related bedload transport phases in step-pool streams.

Les matières en suspension (MES) sont constituées de colloïdes et particules et sont couramment décrites comme des agrégats hétérogènes formées de phases minérales, organiques et biologiques et possédant une forte réactivité de surface. Cette étude vise à étudier l’évolution de composition spatiale et temporelle des MES de la rivière Moselle (Lorraine, France) et également d’étudier la réactivité des MES vis-à-vis de contaminants métalliques. Les MES ont été collectées à différentes stations le long de la rivière Moselle et selon différents régimes hydriques. Des études microscopiques et macroscopiques ont été réalisées dans le but de caractériser les MES. Les résultats ont montré que la composition minérale des MES était relativement constante (1) le long de la Moselle (2) durant différents régimes hydriques et que la géologie du bassin versant contribuait grandement à la composition des MES. Les affluents de la Fensch et de l’Orne, deux rivières impactées par l’héritage industriel ont cependant montré la présence de particules d’origine anthropique. Cette étude a également montré le rôle majeur des MES dans le transport des TMEs et REEs quel que soit le débit. La caractérisation organique des MES a également montré des variations atténuées révélant l’aspect intégrateur d’un bassin versant de cette taille. Des variations saisonnières ont tout de même été observées avec une production autochtone plus élevée durant l’été. L’augmentation du débit a engendré une diminution de la teneur en matière organique ainsi que la présence d’une matière organique plus dégradée. Hormis les stations sur la Fensch et l’Orne, les propriétés de surface des MES sont homogènes, en relation avec la composition des particules. Les études ont également montré que le zinc s’associait de manière différente selon la quantité de zinc en solution. Enfin, l’étude comparée du mode d’association du zinc sur les composés modèles et les MES naturelles a montré la contribution des phyllosilicates dans le transport du zinc / Suspended Particulate Matter (SPM) in rivers, are constituted of colloidal and particulate matter, and described as heterogeneous aggregates of mineral, organic and biological phases which display high and reactive surface area. This study aimed to investigate the spatial and temporal composition evolution (Mineral and organic) of SPM along the Moselle River (Lorraine, France). SPM were collected at different stations along the river and at different regime flow. Macroscopic and microscopic studies were performed in order to characterize natural SPM. The second objective was to investigate the reactivity of SPM toward metallic contaminants. The results showed that the grain size distribution, elemental composition and mineralogy of SPM along the Moselle River and during different regime flow showed only slight variations, except for the Fensch and Orne tributaries, two rivers that were impacted by inherited steel making industrialization and different land use. The results also revealed that the catchment geology greatly contributed to the SPM composition in the river and highlighted the fact that SPM play a high contribution in TMEs and REEs transportation. The SPM organic matter characterization also showed slight variations through the catchment revealing the diffuse pollution in a catchment of this size. Seasonal variations were observed with strong autochthonous production during low flow level in summer. Regime flow increase resulted in the decrease of TOC content and in the presence of more degraded OM. Except for Fensch and Orne stations, surface properties of SPM are similar in relation with SPM composition. This study also showed that Zn association mode differed with different Zn concentrations. The comparison between Zn association mode on lab controlled particles and natural SPM revealed the contribution of phyllosilicates in zinc transport

An investigation of the flow characteristics and sediment transport processes has been carried out in a two-stage meandering channel. Three phases of experiments have been conducted with various floodplain roughnesses. The dimensions of the flume are 13m long and 2.4m wide with a fixed valley slope of 11500. The meandering main channel has a sinuosity of 1.384 with top width of 0.4m. In each phase of the experiment, hydraulic data pertaining to stage-discharge, bed topography and sediment transport rate were measured at various overbank flow depths. Several flow depths were chosen to measure the three-dimensional velocities by means of Laser Doppler Anemometer and the morphological bedforms were recorded using the Photogrammetric technique. The boundary shear stresses were also measured by means of a Preston Tube and Vane Indicator. The experimental results showed that the presence of the energy losses due to momentum exchange and turbulence, bedforms roughness and floodplain roughness induced additional flow resistance to the main channel flow, particularly for shallow overbank flows. The combination of these losses affected a significant reduction in velocity and boundary shear stress in the main channel which, subsequently led to the reduction of sediment discharge at low relative depth for most tested cases. The reduction was more pronounced when the floodplain roughness increased. The examination of the three-dimensional velocity indicated that the formation of bedforms in the main channel is significantly affected by the flow structures, especially the secondary flow. A new method for predicting velocity and sediment transport rate has been introduced based on the two-dimensional equation (Spooner's) coupled with the self-calibrated empirical transport formula. The proposed method gave accurate prediction for depthaveraged velocity and sediment transport rate for two-stage meandering channel.

Το λιμάνι του Πειραιά είναι το πιο σημαντικό της Ελλάδας και ένα από τα σπουδαιότερα της Μεσογείου. Στην ευρύτερη περιοχή του λιμανιού λαμβάνουν χώρα ένα πλήθος από δραστηριότητες που επιβαρύνουν σημαντικά το λιμάνι σε βαρέα μέταλλα. Σκοπός της εργασίας αυτής είναι ο προσδιορισμός βαρέων μετάλλων σε επιφανειακά ιζήματα από το επιβατικό τμήμα του λιμανιού του Πειραιά. Στην αρχή γίνεται μια εισαγωγή για τα βαρέα μέταλλα και το ρόλο τους στα θαλάσσια ιζήματα. Ακολουθεί βιβλιογραφική ανασκόπηση που σχετίζεται με την παρουσία βαρέων μετάλλων σε θαλάσσια ιζήματα που έχουν συλλεχθεί από διάφορα λιμάνια με ποικίλες δραστηριότητες ανά τον κόσμο. Μετά από κάποια γενικά στοιχεία για το λιμάνι του Πειραιά, αναφέρονται στοιχεία της γεωλογίας της περιοχής μελέτης. Στην συνέχεια ακολουθεί περιγραφή των εργασιών πεδίου και γίνεται εκτενής αναφορά στην μεθοδολογία των χημικών αναλύσεων που εφαρμόστηκαν. Στους πυρήνες που συλλέχθηκαν έγιναν κοκκομετρικές αναλύσεις, προσδιορισμός οργανικού άνθρακα και προσδιορισμός συγκεντρώσεων βαρέων μετάλλων. Χρησιμοποιήθηκε η ολική διάσπαση (HF - HNO3 - HClO4) για τον προσδιορισμό των ολικών συγκεντρώσεων των μετάλλων και επίσης χρησιμοποιήθηκε η διαδοχική εκχύλιση για τον προσδιορισμό της χημικής κατανομής των μετάλλων στις διάφορες φάσεις των ιζημάτων και για την αποτίμηση της κινητικότητας τους. Τα αποτελέσματα των παραπάνω αναλύσεων έδειξαν την αρκετά σημαντική επιβάρυνση του λιμανιού σε βαρέα μέταλλα και προσδιόρισαν την κινητικότητα συγκεκριμένων μετάλλων. / The Port of Piraeus is the most important port in Greece as well as one of the important ports around the Mediterranean Sea. A lot of activities (commercial, industrial et.c) load the given port with a huge variety of heavy metals. The aim of this study is to determine the heavy metals in surface sediments from the passenger part of Port of Piraeus. At the beginning of the study there is an introduction of heavy metals and their role in marine sediments. A bibliographical review follows which is relevant to the presence of heavy metals found in marine sediments which have been collected from several ports around the world with various activities. Some data about the port is given, and then, takes place references for the geology of study area. Then, a description of field works and a detailed report of the methodology used for chemicals analysis follow. In the cores that were sampled, have been applied, grain size distribution and concentrations of heavy metals and organic carbon. In order to determine the total metal concentrations, the total digestion (HF-HNO3-HClO4) was used, and the sequential extraction procedure (BCR-SEP) was used for the determination of chemical speciation of metals. The results showed the enormous encumberment of port by heavy metals and determined the mobility of various metals.

Le but de cette thèse est d'étudier le transport et le dépôt de particules solides dans les écoulements à travers les fractures. Dans un premier temps, l'écoulement monophasique à travers les fractures est étudié afin d'évaluer la validité de la loi cubique locale comme modèle de l'écoulement. Des canaux à parois sinusoïdales à géométrie variable sont utilisés pour représenter différents types de fractures. Un premier développement analytique montre que l'ouverture hydraulique de la fracture diffère de son ouverture moyenne lorsque la rugosité des parois est élevée. La méthode des éléments finis est ensuite utilisée pour résoudre les équations de continuité et de Navier-Stokes et comparer les solutions numériques aux prédictions théoriques de la loi cubique locale sur une gamme relativement étendue de nombres de Reynolds Re. Pour de faibles Re, typiquement inférieurs à 15, la loi cubique locale décrit raisonnablement l'écoulement, surtout lorsque la rugosité et le déphasage entre les parois sont relativement faibles. Dans un deuxième temps, les écoulements chargés de particules sont étudiés. Une approche analytique est d'abord développée pour montrer comment des particules distribuées dans un écoulement stationnaire et laminaire à travers une fracture peuvent être transportées sur de longues distances ou au contraire se déposer à l'intérieur. Plus précisément, une équation simple décrivant la trajectoire d'une particule est établie. Sur la base de cette équation, il est démontré que, quand l'inertie des particules est négligeable, leur comportement dépend directement de la géométrie de la fracture et d'un nombre adimensionnel W qui relie la vitesse de sédimentation des particules à la vitesse moyenne de l'écoulement. L'équation proposée est vérifiée en comparant ses prédictions à des simulations numériques de suivi de particules prenant en compte l'inertie des particules et résolvent complètement les équations de Navier-Stokes. Il est montré que l'équation est valide lorsque l'inertie du fluide est faible. Des diagrammes de régimes, permettant de prévoir le comportement des particules à travers la fracture sont proposés. Enfin, un appareil expérimental conçu dans le but d'effectuer une évaluation pratique du modèle analytique est présenté et les résultats préliminaires sont discutés. Les résultats expérimentaux préliminaires tendent valider le modèle analytique. De façon plus générale, les résultats obtenus à travers ce travail de thèse font progresser nos connaissances du comportement des petites particules transportées dans les écoulements de fractures. Potentiellement, ce travail devrait permettre d'améliorer notre prévision de la pollution souterraine, et peut avoir des applications dans le développement de nouvelles techniques de filtration de l'eau et de séparation des minéraux / The aim of the present thesis is to study the transport and deposition of small solid particles in fracture flows. First, single-phase fracture ow is investigated in order to assess the validity of the local cubic law for modeling ow in corrugated fractures. Channels with sinusoidal walls having different geometrical properties are considered to represent different fracture geometries. It is analytically shown that the hydraulic aperture of the fracture clearly deviates from its mean aperture when the walls roughness is relatively high. The finite element method is then used to solve the continuity and the Navier-Stokes equations and to simulate fracture ow in order to compare with the theoretical predictions of the local cubic law for Reynolds numbers Re in the range 0.067-67. The results show that for low Re, typically less than 15, the local cubic law can properly describe the fracture ow, especially when the fracture walls have small corrugation amplitudes. For Re higher than 15, the local cubic law can still be valid under the conditions that the fracture presents a low aspect ratio, small corrugation amplitude, and moderate phase lag between its walls. Second, particle-laden flows are studied. An analytical approach has been developed to show how particles sparsely distributed in steady and laminar fracture flows can be transported for long distances or conversely deposited inside the channel. More precisely, a rather simple particle trajectory equation is established. Based on this equation, it is demonstrated that when particles' inertia is negligible, their behavior is characterized by the fracture geometry and by a dimensionless number W that relates the ratio of the particles sedimentation terminal velocity to the ow mean velocity. The proposed particle trajectory equation is verified by comparing its predictions to particle tracking numerical simulations taking into account particle inertia and resolving the full Navier-Stokes equations. The equation is shown to be valid under the conditions that ow inertial effects are limited. Based on this trajectory equation, regime diagrams that can predict the behavior of particles entering closed channel flows are built. These diagrams enable to forecast if the particles entering the channel will be either deposited or transported till the channel outlet. Finally, an experimental apparatus that was designed to have a practical assessment of the analytical model is presented. Preliminary experimental results tend to verify the analytical model. Overall, the work presented in this thesis give new insights on the behavior of small particles in fracture flows, which may improve our prediction and control of underground contamination, and may have applications in the development of new water filtration and mineral separation techniques