O fotoenvelhecimento tem sido um assunto de grande interesse na área cosmética e dermatológica. Portanto, é relevante a caracterização da pele fotoenvelhecida, bem como o desenvolvimento de formulações dermocosméticas adequadas e direcionadas à finalidade de uso proposta. As vitaminas A e E e seus derivados tem se destacado como substâncias ativas para tal finalidade, e, baseado nesse conceito, foi proposto um composto inovador, o Tocoretinate (éster de all-trans-ácido retinoico e D-?-tocoferol), uma potencial substância ativa alternativa ao ácido retinoico para atuar na melhoria das condições da pele fotoenvelhecida. Nesse contexto, o objetivo do presente projeto foi caracterizar as alterações cutâneas decorrentes do fotoenvelhecimento, desenvolver e avaliar a estabilidade e a eficácia clínica de formulações cosméticas antienvelhecimento contendo Tocoretinate (TR), palmitato de retinila ou acetato de tocoferila. Para tal, inicialmente foi feito o planejamento experimental Box-Behnken com metodologia de superfície de resposta (MSR) foi executado para avaliar os principais efeitos e interações das matérias-primas da formulação. Foram selecionadas três formulações contendo, ou não, 0,5% de palmitato de retinila, 5% do acetato de tocoferila e 0,1% de Tocoretinate, as quais foram avaliadas quanto a sua estabilidade. A caracterização da pele fotoenvelhecida brasileira na face, nos antebraços e no dorso das mãos foi realizada em 80 voluntárias em dois grupos de idade por meio de questionários de autoavaliação e por técnicas de biofísica e imagem da pele. A mesma avaliação foi realizada no antebraço volar e face de 41 voluntárias francesas de 40 a 65 anos. As formulações desenvolvidas foram avaliadas por técnicas de biofísica e análise de imagem antes e após 84 dias de uso pelas voluntárias brasileiras acima de 40 anos. A MSR permitiu a avaliação dos efeitos isolados bem como da interação de matérias primas em respostas como: parâmetros reológicos, sensorial e hidratação. As formulações desenvolvidas foram consideradas estáveis pelos testes de estabilidade realizados. Os principais efeitos relacionados ao fotoenvelhecimento foram: perda da qualidade elástica, maior número e largura de rugas, menor ecogenicidade, maior ângulo tipológico individual e maior tamanho de corneócitos. Na análise morfológica, foi observado um padrão de pigmentação irregular, queratinócitos distribuídos irregularmente, achatamento da junção dermoepidérmica e a presença de fibras de colágeno deterioradas. Diferentes características morfológicas, estruturais e biofísicas foram encontradas na pele brasileira e francesa, que são submetidas a diferentes fatores ambientais e apresentam hábitos distintos. A formulação contendo Tocoretinate atuou na hidratação, na elasticidade líquida, no aumento do componente viscoso da pele, na redução da espessura do estrato córneo, aumento da espessura da epiderme, melhoria da homogeneidade e redução da pigmentação da epiderme e aumento da profundidade das papilas dérmicas. As formulações contendo derivados de vitaminas A e E apresentaram efeito na hidratação cutânea e função barreira da pele, no aumento da porção viscoelástica da curva, aumento da reflectância entre os queratinócitos após 84 dias de estudo. A caracterização da pele por técnicas de biofísica e análise de imagem foi fundamental para a definição do protocolo de estudo clínico de eficácia aplicando as referidas técnicas. O estudo clínico mostrou a eficácia da formulação desenvolvida contendo Tocoretinate na melhoria das condições da pele fotoenvelhecida, e fornece embasamento científico relevante para o uso deste ingrediente ativo inovador tanto em produtos cosméticos como na clínica dermatológica. / Photoaging is a subject of great interest in cosmetics and dermatology. Thus, it is important to characterize photodamaged skin and the development of appropriate dermocosmetic formulations for this purpose. Vitamins A and E and their derivatives have emerged as active substances for this purpose, and, based on this concept, an innovative compound was proposed, the Tocoretinate (ester of all-trans retinoic acid and D-?-tocopherol), which is a potential active ingredient to replace retinoic acid, acting on the improvement of photodamaged skin conditions. The objective of this project is to characterize the skin changes due to photoaging and to develop, evaluate the stability and clinical efficacy of anti-aging cosmetic formulations containing Tocoretinate, retinyl palmitate and tocopheryl acetate. An experimental design of three factors in three levels of experience (Box-Behnken) with response surface methodology (RSM) was performed to evaluate the main effects and interactions of raw materials of the formulations. Three formulations were selected containing, or not, 0.5% retinyl palmitate, 5% tocopheryl acetate and 0.1% Tocoretinate, which were submitted to stability tests. The characterization of the brazilian photodamaged skin on the face, forearms and back of the hands was carried out on 80 volunteers in two age groups through self-assessment questionnaires and biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The same evaluation was performed on the volar forearm and face of 41 French volunteers aged between 40-65 years old. The developed formulations were evaluated by biophysical and skin imaging techniques before, and after 84 days of application of the formulations. RSM allowed the evaluation of the effects of the raw materials on the responses: rheological behavior, sensory properties and hydration. The formulations were considered stable in stability tests. The clinical and morphological features related to photoaging were: loss of the elastic quality, more wrinkles, less echogenicity, higher individual typological angle and larger size of corneocytes and a thicker stratum corneum. For the morphological analysis, an irregular pigmentation pattern was observed, keratinocytes irregularly distributed, flattening of the dermal-epidermal junction and the presence of damaged collagen fibers. Different morphological, structural and biophysical characteristics were found in Brazilian and French skin, that are exposed to different environmental factors and has distinct habits. The formulation containing Tocoretinate acted on skin hydration, elasticity, reduced stratum corneum thickness, increased epidermal thickness, improved uniformity, reduced skin pigmentation, and also increased depth of dermal papillae. Formulations containing derivatives of vitamins A and E acted on skin barrier function and hydration, increasing the portion of the viscoelastic curve and improved the interkeratinocyte reflectance after 84 days of the study. The characterization of the skin by biophysical techniques and skin imaging analysis was fundamental in effectively defining the clinical study protocol applying these techniques. The clinical study showed the efficacy of the formulations developed containing Tocoretinate in improving photodamaged skin conditions, and provides relevant scientific basis for the use of this innovative active ingredient both in dermocosmetics and in dermatology.

O uso frequente de protetores solares é uma das medidas de fotoproteção mais eficazes para prevenção dos danos causados pela radiação solar. Por muitos anos, medidas de fotoproteção estavam relacionadas apenas aos danos causados apenas pela radiação UVB/UVA. No entanto, as radiações visível (VIS) e infravermelho (IV) também têm demonstrado ser prejudicial à saúde humana. Logo, o objetivo deste estudo foi desenvolver e avaliar a eficácia clínica de um protetor solar contendo filtros UV e os antioxidantes, Spirulina e dimetilmetoxi cromanol veiculado em Nanopartículas Lipídicas Sólidas (DMC-NLS), em toda a região do espectro solar. NLS, contendo ou não DMC, foram desenvolvidas à base de cera de abelha e/ou cera de carnaúba usando a técnica de microemulsão à quente e caracterizadas quanto ao tamanho de partícula (z), índice de polidispersividade (IPd), potencial zeta (PZ), pH e eficiência de encapsulação (EE%). Foram desenvolvidas formulações do tipo gel-creme (FVE-veículo), acrescidas de DMCNLS (FVN), filtros UV (FFE) e filtros UV associados à Spirulina e DMC-NLS (FFAN), e avaliadas quanto à estabilidade física, comportamento reológico, penetração cutânea, potencial antioxidante, bem como a proteção contra a formação radicalar em pele de orelha de porco após exposição à radiação UVB/UVA, VIS e IV. Além do FPS in vivo, a proteção UVA in vitro (comprimento de onda crítico-?c e razão UVA/UVB) e FPS in vitro também foram avaliados. Por fim, foram realizados estudos de eficácia clínica para as formulações FFE e FFAN após aplicação na face de 44 voluntárias sadias por 84 dias, usando técnicas de biofísica e análise de imagem da pele para determinação do conteúdo aquoso de estrato córneo (CAEC), da perda transepidérmica de água (TEWL), da ecogenicidade e das propriedades mecânicas da pele, além da análise sensorial dessas formulações. DMC-NLS desenvolvida a partir de cera de abelha se apresentaram esféricas e com z (120,5 ± 20,4 nm), IPd (0,449 ± 0,012), PZ (-10,4 ± 0,5 mV) pH (3,95 ± 0,02) e EE% (96,02 ± 0,81%) adequados aos objetivos do estudo e permaneceram estáveis por 54 dias à 4°C. Todas as formulações permaneceram fisicamente estáveis após 60 dias, apresentaram comportamento não-newtoniano e pseudoplástico, com tixotropia, e potencial antioxidante igual a 32,0 ± 1,0 x 104 radicais/mg e 77,0 ± 4,0 x 104 radicais/mg, respectivamente, para FFE e FFAN. A formulação FFAN penetrou até a profundidade de 10,4 ± 1,7 ?m e 11,2 ± 3,0 ?m, após 1 e 6 horas de penetração, respectivamente, e nenhum filtro solar atingiu a solução receptora. A formação radicalar foi reduzida pelas formulações FFE e FFAN nas regiões UV e VIS; e uma proteção superior foi observada para a formulação FFAN, contendo antioxidantes, nas regiões UV, VIS e IV. O FPS para FFE e FFAN foi igual a 30, com boa proteção UVA e ?c de 378 nm. Ambas as formulações melhoraram o CAEC, o TEWL, as propriedades mecânicas e a ecogenicidade da pele; no entanto, a formulação FFAN demonstrou melhores resultados comparado com FFE. Na análise sensorial, a maioria das voluntárias demonstraram intenção de compra do produto e relataram aumento da hidratação e elasticidade da pele, e pele mais macia. Portanto, podemos concluir que o uso frequente do protetor solar preveniu os danos causados em todas a região do espectro solar, e a incorporação da Spirulina e DMC-NLS, foi capaz de potencializar seu efeito protetor contra a radiação UV, VIS e IV. / The frequent use of sunscreen is one of the most effective photoprotection strategies to prevent the damages caused by solar radiation. For years photoprotection was associated only to the damages caused by UVB and UVA radiation. However, the visible (VIS) and near-infrared (NIR) radiation have also been shown to be harmful to human health. Therefore, the aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the clinical efficacy of a sunscreen containing UV filters and the antioxidants, Spirulina and dimethylmethoxy chromanol-loaded Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (DMC-SLN), in the whole solar spectrum range. SLN, containing or not DMC, were developed using beeswax and/or carnauba wax as solid lipids, using the hot melt microemulsion technique and characterized regarding to particle size (z), polydispersity index (PdI), zeta potential (ZP), pH and encapsulation efficiency (EE%). Gel-cream formulations (FVE-vehicle) containing DMCSLN (FVN), UV filters (FFE) and UV filters in association to Spirulina and DMC-SLN (FFAN) were developed and evaluated through the physical stability, rheological behavior, skin penetration studies on pig ear skin, antioxidant potential as well as protection against the radical formation on pig ear skin after exposure to UVB/UVA, VIS and NIR radiation. In addition to the in vivo SPF, in vitro UVA protection (?c-critical wavelength and UVA/UVB ratio) and in vitro SPF were also evaluated. Finally, clinical efficacy studies were performed to the FFE and FFAN formulations after their application on the face skin of 44 volunteers for 84 days using biophysical and skin imaging techniques in order to determine the stratum corneum water content (SCWC), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin echogenicity and mechanical properties, in addition to the sensory analysis of these formulations. DMC-SLN beeswax were spherical in shape and showed appropriated z (120.5 ± 20.4 nm), IPd (0.449 ± 0.012), PZ (-10.4 ± 0.5 mV), pH (3.95 ± 0.02) and EE% (96.02 ± 0.81%) according to the objective of this study; and it remained stable after 54 days of storage at 4°C. All the studied formulations remained physically stable after 60 days and showed non- Newtonian and pseudoplastic behavior with thixotropic, antioxidant potencial equal to 32.0±1.0 x 104 radicals/mg and 77.0 ± 4.0 x 104 radicals/mg, respectively, for FFE and FFAN. The formulation FFAN penetrated into the skin until the depth of 10.4 ± 1.7 ?m and 11.2 ± 3.0 ?m 1 and 6 hours after penetration, respectively, and none of the UV filters reached the receptor solution. The radical formation was reduced by FFE and FFAN formulations in the UV and VIS range; and an enhanced protection was observed for FFAN formulation, containing antioxidant, in the UV, VIS and NIR ranges. The SPF value for FFE and FFAN was 30, with good UVA protection and ?c equal to 378 nm. Both formulations improved the SCWC and TEWL values and the skin mechanical properties and echogenicity; however, FFAN formulation showed better results compared to FFE. In the sensory analysis most of the volunteers demonstrated product-buying intention and reported a more hydrated, firmer and smoother skin. Therefore we can conclude that the frequent use of sunscreen prevented the skin damage caused in the whole solar spectrum range, and the incorporation of Spirulina and DMC-SLN, enhanced the sunscreen protective effect against UV, VIS and NIR radiation

Considerando que a tendência atual em termos de formulações cosméticas é a veiculação de diferentes substâncias ativas num mesmo produto, visando o sinergismo de efeito, o objetivo desse trabalho foi a avaliação da estabilidade, da segurança e da eficácia clínica de formulações cosméticas, contendo extrato de Myrtus communis e um complexo vitamínico hidratante à base de D-pantenol e derivados de vitaminas C e E, bem como a avaliação da atividade antioxidante in vitro do extrato objeto de estudo. Para tal, na primeira etapa do estudo foram elaboradas 4 formulações de géis creme, F1 (veículo), F2 (veículo acrescido de extrato hidrolisado de Myrtus communis), F3 (veículo acrescido de D-pantenol) e F4 (veículo acrescido de extrato hidrolisado de Myrtus communis e D-pantenol), as quais foram submetidas a testes preliminares de estabilidade e à avaliação do comportamento reológico, da compatibilidade cutânea e da eficácia clínica, por métodos subjetivos (avaliação sensorial) e quantitativos por técnicas de biofísica e análise de imagem da pele. No estudo clínico as formulações foram aplicadas nos antebraços e na face das voluntárias, sendo realizadas medidas do conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo, da perda de água transepidérmica (TEWL), do micro-relevo cutâneo e da anisotropia da pele, antes (basal) e após 3 horas (efeito imediato) 15 e 30 dias de aplicação das formulações (efeito em longo prazo). Os dados foram analisados estatisticamente pelo teste paramétrico análise de variância. A seguir, a formulação que apresentou melhores resultados na avaliação sensorial e estudo de eficácia, foi acrescida de Tetraisopalmitato de ascorbila (F5) ou Vitamina E - D-Alfa Tocoferol Acetato (F6) ou associação destes (F7). As referidas formulações foram submetidas aos testes de estabilidade e eficácia clínica. De acordo com os resultados obtidos, as formulações foram consideradas estáveis e seguras, sendo que a formulação de nº 4 foi a que apresentou o melhor sensorial, de acordo com as voluntárias sendo, portanto, selecionada para ser acrescida dos derivados de vitaminas objeto de estudo. Na avaliação dos efeitos imediatos, as formulações estudadas aumentaram significativamente o conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo nas regiões dos antebraços e da face, quando comparadas com os valores basais. Em relação à TEWL, foi possível observar que as formulações nos 2, 3 e 4 provocaram melhora na função barreira da pele dos antebraços, enquanto que na face apenas as formulações nos 3 e 4 provocaram melhora neste parâmetro. Na avaliação em longo prazo, todas as formulações estudadas, proporcionaram um aumento significativo no conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo após 15 e 30 dias de aplicação, enquanto que somente as formulações que continham as substâncias ativas objeto de estudo, ou seja, as nos 2, 3 e 4, melhoraram a função barreira da pele. No estudo de eficácia clínica onde as formulações F4 (veículo acrescido de extrato hidrolisado de Myrtus communis e D-pantenol) e F7 (veículo acrescido de extrato hidrolisado de Myrtus communis, D-pantenol e os derivados de vitamina C e E) foram avaliadas comparativamente, foi possível observar um aumento significativo nos valores do conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo, em relação aos valores basais e a região controle (região que não recebeu aplicação de nenhuma formulação), após 15 dias de aplicação. Em relação à TEWL, apenas a formulação F4 (veículo acrescido de extrato hidrolisado de Myrtus communis e D-pantenol) provocou melhora na função barreira. De acordo com os resultados obtidos, as formulações desenvolvidas neste estudo apresentaram efeito hidratante pronunciado e, as que continham o extrato Myrtus communis e D-pantenol, protegeram a função barreira da pele. Além disso, o extrato de Myrtus communis demonstrou atividade antioxidante pronunciada, efeito considerado muito importante para o emprego deste extrato em cosméticos com finalidades antienvelhecimentos. Finalizando, este estudo mostrou a importância do desenvolvimento de formulações cosméticas estáveis, de sensorial adequado e com eficácia comprovada, contendo o extrato hidrolisado de Myrtus communis e o complexo vitamínico objeto de estudo, para a hidratação, proteção e melhora das condições gerais da pele. / Considering that the current trend in terms of cosmetic formulations is to vehicle different active ingredients in one single product, aiming the effect of synergism, the objective of this study was to evaluate the stability, safety and clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing extract of Myrtus communis and a moisturizing vitamin complex based on D-panthenol and derivatives of vitamins C and E, as well as to evaluate the extract in vitro antioxidant activity. Thus, for the first study stage, four gel cream formulations were developed, F1 (vehicle), F2 (vehicle supplemented with Myrtus communis hydrolyzate extract), F3 (vehicle supplemented with D-panthenol) and F4 (vehicle supplemented with Myrtus communis hydrolyzate extract and D-panthenol), which were submitted to preliminary stability tests, to rheological behavior assessment, to skin compatibility test and to clinical efficacy assessment, by subjective methods (sensorial evaluation) and quantitative methods, by biophysics techniques and skin image analysis. In the clinical study, the formulations were applied on the volunteers´ face and forearms, with measurements of the stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin micro-relief and skin anisotropy before (baseline) and after 3 hours (immediate effects), 15 and 30 days of the formulations application (long-term effects). Data were statistically analyzed by parametric test analysis of variance. Afterwards, the formulation that showed best performance in sensory evaluation and clinical efficacy study was supplemented with ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (F5) or Vitamin E - D-Alpha-Tocopherol Acetate (F6) or a combination of both derivatives of vitamins, C and E (F7). According to the obtained results, all the formulations were considered safe and stable, and formulation 4 was the one with the best sensorial performance, according to the volunteers perception, and, therefore, it was selected to be supplemented with the vitamin derivatives under study. The immediate effects evaluation demonstrated that all the other formulations significantly increased stratum corneum water content in the face and forearms skin, when compared to baseline values. In relation to TEWL, it was observed that the formulations 2, 3 and 4 provoked an improvement in forearm skin barrier function, while only formulations 3 and 4 provoked an improvement on this parameter on the face. In the long-term assessment, all formulations studied promoted a significant increase in stratum corneum water content after 15 and 30 days of the formulations application, while only formulations containing the studied active ingredients, i.e., formulations 2, 3, and 4 improved skin barrier function. In the clinical efficacy study when the formulations F4 (vehicle supplemented with Myrtus communis hydrolyzate extract and D-panthenol) and F7 (vehicle supplemented with Myrtus communis hydrolyzate extract, D-panthenol and derivatives of vitamin C and E) were comparatively assessed, it was possible to observe a significantly increase in stratum corneum water content, when compared to baseline values and to control areas (region which received no formulation), after 15 days of formulations application. Regarding TEWL, only formulation F4 (vehicle supplemented with Myrtus communis hydrolyzate extract and D-panthenol) provoked an improvement in skin barrier function. According to the obtained results, the formulations developed in this study demonstrated a pronounced moisturizing effect, and those containing Myrtus communis extract and D-panthenol, protected the skin barrier function. Moreover, the extract of Myrtus communis demonstrated a pronounced antioxidant activity, an effect considered very important for this extract use in cosmetics aiming anti-aging purposes. Finally, this study demonstrated the relevance of developing stable cosmetic formulations, with adequate sensory characteristics and proven effectiveness, supplemented with Myrtus communis hydrolyzed extract and with the vitamin complex under study, for skin hydration, protection and improvement of general skin conditions

A indústria cosmética tem se dedicado a desenvolver produtos com apelo antienvelhecimento no intuito de prevenir, retardar e amenizar rugas, englobando assim diversos benefícios para pele em um único produto. Dessa forma, é de fundamental importância avaliar a influência da associação de diferentes ativos cosméticos em uma mesma formulação no que se refere à eficácia da mesma. Nesse contexto, o presente estudo teve como objetivo desenvolver formulações cosméticas contendo oligossacarídeos da alfafa, polissacarídeos da mandioca e filtros solares, bem como a analisar a influência desses componentes no sensorial, textura e eficácia clínica de tais formulações após uma única aplicação (efeitos imediatos) e com o uso prolongado (efeitos em longo prazo). Para tal, formulações cosméticas, contendo ou não filtros solares e ativos objeto de estudo, isolados ou em associação, foram desenvolvidas e submetidas a estudo de estabilidade. As formulações estáveis foram analisadas quanto à textura, espalhabilidade e sensorial. Foram avaliados os efeitos imediatos das formulações com relação a hidratação, função barreira e microrrelevo da pele. Ademais, foi realizada a eficácia clínica das formulações após 45 dias de aplicação na hidratação, função barreira, controle da oleosidade, propriedades mecânicas e microrrelevo da pele. Além disso, foi avaliada a quantidade e largura de poros, padrão de coloração de manchas na pele, ecogeneicidade e espessura da derme. De acordo com os resultados as formulações desenvolvidas foram estáveis e a formulação que contendo filtros e ativos obteve melhores resultados em relação a textura, espalhabilidade e sensorial. No estudo de eficácia clínica, a formulação multifuncional contendo filtros solares e os ativos mostrou efeitos mais pronunciados na melhora da hidratação, microrrelevo e viscoelasticidade da pele. Com relação à influência dos componentes da formulação, a presença de filtros solares na formulação interferiu negativamente nos efeitos imediatos na hidratação e função barreira da pele e positivamente nos parâmetros relacionados ao microrrelevo cutâneo. Os oligossacarídeos de alfafa e polissacarídeos da mandioca mostraram influência positiva e sinergismo na melhora das propriedades mecânicas da pele. Em síntese, a formulação contendo a associação de ativos e filtros solares mostrou eficácia na melhora imediata e em longo prazo das condições gerais da pele envelhecida, além de possuir características sensoriais que atenderam às expectativas das voluntárias, mostrando a importância. Por fim, este estudo mostrou a importância do conhecimento dos componentes das formulações cosméticas e da combinação de substâncias ativas e filtros solares para a elaboração de protocolos de Pesquisa & Desenvolvimento para a obtenção de cosméticos multifuncionais eficazes / The cosmetic industry has been dedicated to develop products with anti-aging appeal in order to prevent, delay and soften wrinkles, combining many benefits for the skin in a single product. Thus, it is crucial to evaluate the influence of the association of different cosmetic actives in the same formulation as regards the effectiveness thereof. In this context, the present study aimed to develop cosmetic formulations containing oligosaccharides alfalfa, polysaccharides cassava and sunscreens, as well as to analyze the influence of these components in the sensory, texture and clinical efficacy of such formulations after a single application (immediate effect) and prolonged use (long-term effects). The cosmetic formulations, with or without sunscreens and active ingredients studied, alone or in combination, were developed and undergone to stability studies. The stable formulations were analyzed regarding texture, spreadability and sensory. The immediate effects of the formulations were evaluated in relation to moisture, barrier function and skin microrelief. Furthermore, the clinical efficacy of the formulations were performed after 45 days of application and were observed the hydration, barrier function, control of sebum, mechanical properties and the skin microrelief. In addition, the number and width of pores staining pattern of spots, echogenicity and thickness of the dermis was evaluated. According to the results the developed formulations were stable and the formulation containing filters and actives showed better results in relation to texture, spreadability and sensory. In the study of clinical efficacy, multifunctional formulation containing sunscreens and actives showed more pronounced effects in improving hydration, micro relief and skin viscoelasticity. Regarding the influence of the formulation components, the presence of sunscreens in the formulation had a negative influence on the immediate effects on the skin hydration and barrier function and positive influence in the parameters related to the skin microrelief. The oligosaccharides and polysaccharides alfalfa cassava showed positive influence and synergism in improving the mechanical properties of the skin. In summary, the correlation of the techniques used were essential to the establishment of a stable multi-functional formulation, with sensory characteristics that met to the expectations of the volunteers and with proven clinical efficacy improving immediate and long-term effects of the general conditions of aging skin. Finally, this study showed the importance of knowledge of cosmetic formulations components for directing the Research & Development of effective multifunctional cosmetics.

A acne é uma doença de pele com alta prevalência e seu tratamento é importante para evitar lesões cutâneas permanentes ou o agravamento de transtornos psicológicos provenientes do abalo à autoestima. Dessa forma, o desenvolvimento de formulações dermocosméticas eficazes que possam melhorar as condições desse tipo de pele é de grande valia. Dentre os ativos com potenciais benefícios para o controle de alguns dos principais fatores causadores da acne, estão a vitamina B3, um derivado de vitamina B6 e o PCA zinco. Assim o objetivo deste estudo foi o desenvolvimento de formulações dermocosméticas para a pele acnéica contendo vitamina B3, derivado lipossolúvel de vitamina B6 e PCA zinco bem como a avaliação da estabilidade e eficácia clínica dessas formulações. Para tal, foram desenvolvidas diferentes formulações, as quais, em um primeiro momento, foram avaliadas quanto à estabilidade frente à adição do ingrediente ativo Zinc PCA. Após esta etapa, os demais ingredientes ativos foram adicionados e as formulações foram submetidas a testes preliminares de estabilidade e ao estudo da estabilidade física por determinação do comportamento reológico. A formulação mais estável foi avaliada quanto à compatibilidade cutânea e também em relação à comedogenicidade do veículo. A formulação composta pelos ingredientes ativos foi avaliada, ainda, quanto as suas características sensoriais e eficácia clínica. Os estudos de eficácia foram realizados por meio de métodos objetivos e subjetivos, após seis semanas do uso da formulação. Os métodos objetivos consistiram no uso de metodologias in vivo, não invasivas (métodos biofísicos e de imagem), sendo avaliados parâmetros relacionados à hidratação, função barreira, conteúdo lipídico, pH cutâneo, contagem de porfirinas, de microcomedões e de lesões inflamatórias. Em relação aos métodos subjetivos, foi realizada a percepção da eficácia por meio de um questionário para a comparação da pele antes e após o tratamento. Os resultados mostraram que, de todas as formulações desenvolvidas, apenas uma mostrou-se estável frente aos testes de estabilidade realizados. A formulação (veículo e adicionada de ingredientes ativos) apresentou compatibilidade cutânea considerada como \"muito boa\", de acordo com o teste realizado, e o veículo sem potencial comedogênico. Na avaliação sensorial as frequências obtidas para os parâmetros considerados como ruins foram baixas, indicando que o sensorial da formulação mostrou-se adequado para as finalidades propostas. No estudo de eficácia clínica, a formulação não alterou a hidratação e a função barreira da pele e mostrou-se eficaz na redução da contagem de porfirinas e das lesões inflamatórias (p<0,05). A avaliação clínica por métodos subjetivos mostrou a eficácia da formulação quanto à melhora da acne inflamatória, oleosidade da pele, hidratação e maciez. Por fim, os resultados obtidos mostraram que a formulação desenvolvida é eficaz e compatível com a pele, bem como a importância da pesquisa e desenvolvimento para a obtenção de formulações estáveis, seguras, eficazes e com sensorial adequado. / Acne is a skin disease with high prevalence and its treatment is important to prevent permanent skin lesions or the aggravation of psychological disorders due to self-esteem shaken. This way, the development of effective dermocosmetic formulations, that can improve the conditions of this skin type, is very important. Vitamin B3, a vitamin B6 derivative and zinc PCA are among the active ingredients which present potential benefits in the controlling of some pathogenic factors of acne. Thus, the aim of this research was to develop cosmetic formulations for acneic skin containing vitamin B3, vitamin B6 lipophilic derivative and zinc PCA, as well as the evaluation of stability and clinical efficacy. For this purpose, were developed different formulations which, at first, were evaluated in terms of stability face to zinc PCA addition. After this, the others active ingredients were added and the formulations were submitted to preliminary tests of stability and physical stability studies by rheological behavior determination. The most stable formulation was subject to skin compatibility evaluation and vehicle comedogenicity. The formulation with the active ingredients was also evaluated regarding their sensorial characteristics and clinical efficacy. Efficacy studies were performed by means of objective and subjective methods, after a sixweek- period of use of the formulation. The objective methods consisted in non-invasive in vivo methodologies (biophysical techniques and image analysis) where were evaluated hydration, barrier function, lipid content, skin pH and the counting of porphyrins, microcomedones and inflammatories lesions. In relation to subjective methods, was performed the efficacy perception using a questionnaire in order to compare the skin before and after the treatment. The results showed that among the formulations developed, only one kept stable after the stability tests. The formulations were considered as \"very good\" on skin compatibility test and showed no comedogenic potential. In sensorial evaluation, frequencies obtained for the parameters considered bad were low, which indicate the sensorial of the formulation was adequate for the purposes. In clinical efficacy study, the formulation under study did not alter the parameters related to hydration and skin barrier function and was effective in reducing the counting of porphyrins and inflammatories lesions (p<0,05). Clinical evaluation by subjective methods showed the formulation effectiveness regarding the improvement of inflammatory acne, skin oiliness, hydration and softness. Finally, the results obtained showed the formulation developed is effective and compatible with the skin and, besides the importance of research and development for obtaining stable, safe and effective formulations with suitable sensorial.

O dimetilaminoetanol (DMAE) e o acetil hexapeptídeo-3 (AHP) vêm sendo utilizados em formulações dermocosméticas com finalidade antienvelhecimento. No entanto, há poucos trabalhos na literatura referentes aos efeitos dessas substâncias ativas no tecido cutâneo. Assim, o presente estudo tem por objetivos o desenvolvimento, a avaliação da estabilidade física, da segurança e da eficácia clínica de formulações dermocosméticas contendo DMAE e/ou AHP. Para tal, foram preparadas quatro formulações à base de ceras auto-emulsionantes compostas por álcool batílico e lecitina de soja ou ésteres de polietilenoglicol, estabilizadas por polímeros hidrofílicos (hidroxietilcelulose ou polímero de acrilato). Estas formulações foram acrescidas ou não (veículo) de 10% de uma solução a 0,05% de AHP e/ou de 9% de DMAE acetamidobenzoato e submetidas a testes preliminares de estabilidade. A seguir, foram realizados estudos de estabilidade por determinação do comportamento reológico, bem como uma análise sensorial. A formulação composta de ésteres de polietilenoglicol e polímero de acrilato (F4) apresentou melhor estabilidade e melhor sensorial e, assim, foi utilizada como veículo nos testes clínicos. Nesses testes avaliou-se a compatibilidade cutânea após uma única aplicação do produto na região das costas das voluntárias e a eficácia a curto (efeitos imediatos) e a longo prazo. Para a avaliação dos efeitos imediatos, analisou-se a hidratação, as propriedades viscoelásticas e o micro-relevo da pele da região ventral dos antebraços, após 2 horas da aplicação das formulações: veículo (F4) , veículo + DMAE (F4D), veículo + AHP (F4A) e veículo + DMAE + AHP (F4AD). Para analisar os efeitos a longo prazo, as voluntárias aplicaram as formulações diariamente nos antebraços e na face sendo que, após 2 e 4 semanas de tratamento, foram realizadas medidas dos parâmetros acima mencionados e das propriedades mecânicas da pele por determinação de suas características anisotrópicas. Os resultados obtidos no estudo clínico mostraram que todas as formulações estudadas apresentaram compatibilidade cutânea muito boa além de efeitos imediatos aumentando o conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo. Por outro lado, observou-se que apenas as formulações que continham as substâncias ativas provocaram uma diminuição significativa da perda transepidérmica de água (TEWL), ou seja, mostraram efeito na melhoria da função barreira da pele. A longo prazo, observou-se que todas as formulações provocaram aumento do conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo na face, o que não ocorreu para o antebraço. No entanto, somente as formulações que continham AHP reduziram a anisotropia da pele da face, ou seja, com o uso de tais formulações ocorreu uma melhora significativa das propriedades mecânicas da pele. Em síntese, de acordo com os dados obtidos, pode-se concluir que as formulações desenvolvidas apresentaram-se estáveis, seguras e eficazes, uma vez que não sofreram alterações em suas propriedades físico-químicas e não causaram irritação na pele. Além disso, as formulações que continham AHP ou DMAE apresentaram efeitos imediatos na diminuição da TEWL e as formulações acrescidas de AHP reduziram a anisotropia da pele após 4 semanas de aplicação, melhorando significativamente o tônus e a firmeza da pele. Assim, o AHP pode ser considerado uma substância eficaz para aplicação em formulações dermocosméticas com finalidade antienvelhecimento. / Dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) and acetyl hexapeptide-3 (AHP) have been used in dermocosmetic formulations for anti-aging purposes. However, few scientific papers are concerned about the effects of these active substances on cutaneous tissue. Thus, the aim of the present study is the development, evaluation of physical stability, safety and clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations containing DMAE and/or AHP. Four formulations based on self emulsifying wax containing batyl alcohol and lecithin or polyethyleneglycol ester, stabilized by hydrophilic polymers (hydroxyethylcellulose or acrylate polymer) were prepared as vehicles. They were supplemented or not with acetyl hexapeptide-3 solution (0.05%) and DMAE acetamidobenzoate to final concentrations of 10% and 9%, respectively, and submitted to preliminary stability tests, followed by the determination of rheological behavior, as well as, sensorial analysis. The formulation containing polyethyleneglycol ester and acrylate polymer (F4), chosen as vehicle for the clinical trials, showed the best stability and sensorial. In these trials, skin compatibility was evaluated after a single product application on the backs of volunteers, as well as, the short (immediate effects) and long term efficacy. To evaluate the immediate effects, skin hydration, viscoelastic properties and skin microrelief were tested in the ventral forearm region, 2 hours after application of the formulations: vehicle (F4), vehicle + DMAE (F4D), vehicle + AHP (F4A) and vehicle + DMAE + AHP (F4AD). Long term effects of the same formulations were evaluated in volunteers by daily applications on the forearm and face. After 2 and 4 weeks of treatment, the same parameters were measured in addition to the determination of skin mechanical properties by its anisotropic characteristics. The results obtained in the clinical study showed that all formulations tested had a very good skin compatibility besides an immediate effect of increasing the stratum corneum water content. On the other hand, only formulations containing the active substances produced a significant decrease in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), in other words, these formulations improved the skin barrier function. Long term studies demonstrated that all formulations promoted an enhancement of the stratum corneum water content when applied on the face but not in the forearm. However, only formulations containing AHP reduced skin anisotropy in the face, ie, there was a significant improvement of the skin mechanical properties due to the use of these formulations. In summary, according to the results obtained, it can be concluded that the developed formulations were stable, safe and effective, since they did not present alterations in their physicochemical properties and did not cause skin irritation. Moreover, the formulations containing AHP or DMAE presented immediate effects by reducing the TEWL and the ones supplemented with AHP reduced the skin anisotropy after 4 weeks of application, significantly improving the skin tone and firmness. Thus, it is suggested that AHP may be considered an effective substance to be used in cosmetic formulations with anti-aging purposes.

The progression of skin ageing in individuals is multifaceted and provoked by various aspects, including hereditary and a variety of environmental causes, for instance UV (ultra violet) radiation, resulting in the morphological modifications in the dermal layer of the skin (Makrantonaki & Zouboulis, 2007:40) Transformations caused by ageing skin, in which degenerative alterations exceed regenerative alterations are recognised by the thinning and wrinkling of the epidermis in conjunction with the appearance of lines, creases, crevices and furrows, particularly emphasised in lines of facial expressions (Aburjai & Natsheh, 2003:990). For human beings to continue to exist in a terrestrial atmosphere, the loss of water from the skin must be cautiously synchronised by the epidermis, a task dependent on the multifaceted character of the stratum corneum (Rawlings & Harding, 2004:43). The stratum corneum (SC) is responsible for the main resistance to the penetration of most compounds; nevertheless the skin represents as an appropriate target for delivery. The target site for anti-ageing treatment includes the epidermal and dermal layers of the skin. Therefore, the need to apply fatty materials to the skin is practically intuitive and may perhaps be as old as man’s existence itself (Lodén, 2005:672). Natural therapies have been used for several decades for taking care of skin illnesses and a wide variety of dermatological disorders, such as inflammation, phototoxicity, atopic dermatitis and alopecia areata (Aburjai & Natsheh, 2003:988). Using the skin as an alternative route for the administration of honeybush extracts for the treatment of ageing skin may be beneficial. Tea contains more than 500 chemical compounds, including, tannins, flavonoids, amino acids, vitamins, caffeine and polysaccharides. Tea polyphenols (flavonoids) have proven anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiallergic, antibacterial and antiviral effects (Aburjai & Natsheh, 2003:990). Unfortunately using the skin as an alternative route for administering drugs (transdermal drug delivery) has numerous limitations. One of these limitations is the barrier function of the skin (Naik et al., 2000:319). Because of the skin’s outstanding ability to protect the body against unwanted substances from its surroundings, it is necessary to use methods to enhance drug penetration through the skin. The aim of this study was to formulate two 2% semisolid formulations containing two different honeybush extracts as the active ingredient, and to determine which of the formulations deliver mangiferin and hesperidin best to the target site (dermis). Cosmetic formulations of a natural origin, is designed to protect the skin against exogenous or endogenous harmful agents, as well as to balance the dermal homeostatis lipids altered by dermatosis and ageing (Aburjai & Natsheh, 2003:988). Stability tests over a three month period were also performed on the different formulations. To determine the stability of the different semi-solid formulations, the formulated products were stored at 25 °C/60% RH (relative humidity), 30 °C/60% RH and 40 °C/75% RH. HPLC analysis was used to determine the concentrations of the ingredients in all the formulated products. Other stability tests included appearance, pH, viscosity, mass loss, zeta potential and particle size determination. Unfortunately a change in colour, viscosity, zeta potential, mass loss, particle size and concentration of the ingredients in both the formulations, indicated that the products were unstable from the first month of stability testing. A 2% Cyclopia maculata cream as well as a 2% Cyclopia genistoides cream was formulated. Franz cell diffusion studies as well as membrane release studies were performed over a 12 h period, followed by tape stripping experiments to determine which semi-solid formulation delivered mangiferin and hesperidin the best to the dermal layer of the skin. The results of the different formulations were compared. Unfortunately there was no significant penetration by any of the honeybush extracts. Results were inconclusive and unquantifiable due to unconvincing penetration results. The antioxidant properties of both the extracts and the active ingredients were calculated. Antioxidant studies by the use of the TBA-assay method were done to determine whether the honeybush extracts, mangiferin and hesperidin as well as their semisolid formulations had any antioxidant activities. Both the honeybush extracts and the semisolid formulations showed promising results. Mangiferin and hesperidin did not show any antioxidant activity on their own, therefore the assumption can be confirmed that plants do function synergistically. A clinical study was also conducted to see whether honeybush extracts have the potential to hydrate the skin, counteracting the symptoms and signs of skin ageing. Clinical efficacy studies were done to determine whether the honeybush formulations had any skin hydrating effects in the treatment against skin ageing. The results were statistically inconclusive and variations between the subjects were very high due to skin variations at different skin sites. There was however a trend that Cyclopia genistoides performed the best. / Thesis (MSc (Pharmaceutics))--North-West University, Potchefstroom Campus, 2013.

Natural oils are regularly used in cosmetics and as treatment for numeral skin conditions (Nielsen, 2006:575). The natural products industry is a multibillion dollar industry and has grown tremendously over the past few years. Natural oils used in cosmetics contain a range of fatty acids which contribute to several valuable properties in cosmetic- and personal care products. Fatty acids are divided into saturated acids and unsaturated acids (Vermaak et al., 2011:920,922). Because of the popularity and wide diversity of skin care products, it is necessary to create products that will distinguish themselves from the rest of the commercial products. To include natural oils in skin care products is a new way to prevent skin ageing, as well as other dermatological conditions. In this study, a natural oil, namely crocodile oil was used. Crocodile oil is obtained from the fat of the Nile crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus). Crocodile oil has the same composition as human skin oil. It only differs with regard to the percentages of the ingredients present. Crocodile oil contains saturated and unsaturated fatty acids. Because of the similar composition as human skin oil, crocodile oil will rarely be allergenic when applied to human skin and therefore will be a very accepted and harmless product to use (Croc city, 2012). There are many claims of positive results when crocodile oil containing products have been used. It includes fading of freckles, treatment of acne and pimple marks, dark lines, wrinkles and laugh lines. It also includes vanishing of dark shadows, sun spots and other discolorations. It helps prevent discolorations from forming and makes the skin softer, brighter and more attractive. It also controls rashness and dryness (Croc city, 2012). Because of crocodile oil’s anti-ageing, anti-fungal and anti-bacterial effects claimed by crocodile oil suppliers, and due to the fact that little scientific data is available on crocodile oil, it was decided to investigate the claims. In this study, the aims and objectives were to use natural oil, namely crocodile oil, and investigate the fatty acid profile, anti-microbial and anti-fungal activity, anti-oxidant activity, toxicity studies, stability determination of crocodile oil lotion and clinical efficacy testing of the anti-ageing effects. To determine the fatty acid profile of crocodile oil, fatty acid methyl ester (FAME) analysis with gas chromatography were used. Identification of FAME peaks in the samples was made by comparing the relative retention times of FAME peaks from samples to those of reference standards. The composition of fatty acids in crocodile oil compared well to fatty acids found in human skin oil. Anti-microbial and anti-fungal tests were done by Envirocare Laboratories, North-West University, Potchefstroom. Staphylococcus aureus, Esterichia coli, Pseudomanas aeruginosa, Candida albicans, Brasiliensis, Propionibacterium acnes and Trichophyton rubrum cultures were used to determine the anti-microbial and anti-fungal activity of crocodile oil. Unfortunately no activity was observed. The anti-oxidant properties of crocodile oil and crocodile oil lotion were determined by using the most commonly used method for measuring Malondialdehyde (MDA) in biological samples, namely the thiobarbituric acid (TBA) test. This method is based on spectrophotometric quantification of the pink complex formed after reaction of MDA with two molecules of TBA. No anti-oxidant activity was observed in the oil or the lotion. Toxicity studies were performed by Dr. D. Goosen (BVSc Hons. Pret.) from Tswane University of Technology (Pretoria, South Africa). The studies showed that the lotion had no toxicity in the skin sensitisation, acute dermal toxicity and acute dermal irritation studies. To determine the stability of the crocodile oil lotion, the formulated products were store at 25 °C / 60% RH (relative humidity), 30 °C / 60% RH and 40 °C / 75% RH for 6 months in the original packaging as well as a glass container. The stability tests included pH, viscosity, visual appearance assessment, zeta-potential, droplet size and mass loss. The crocodile cream lotion was stable over the 6 months period in both containers. Clinical efficacy testing was performed at the CEL (Clinical Efficacy Laboratory) of the North-West University, Potchefstroom, South Africa. A short-term study over a period of 3 h was performed to investigate the hydrating effects of crocodile oil lotion. A long-term study over a period of 12 weeks was performed to examine the anti-ageing effects of crocodile oil lotion. An erythema study was also conducted to test the anti-erythema properties of crocodile oil lotion. Although the crocodile oil lotion as well as the placebo lotion showed an increase in skin hydration, there was no significant difference between the two treatments. Crocodile oil lotion also showed no anti-erythema properties. / Thesis (PhD (Pharmaceutics))--North-West University, Potchefstroom Campus, 2013.

The progression of skin ageing in individuals is multifaceted and provoked by various aspects, including hereditary and a variety of environmental causes, for instance UV (ultra violet) radiation, resulting in the morphological modifications in the dermal layer of the skin (Makrantonaki & Zouboulis, 2007:40) Transformations caused by ageing skin, in which degenerative alterations exceed regenerative alterations are recognised by the thinning and wrinkling of the epidermis in conjunction with the appearance of lines, creases, crevices and furrows, particularly emphasised in lines of facial expressions (Aburjai & Natsheh, 2003:990). For human beings to continue to exist in a terrestrial atmosphere, the loss of water from the skin must be cautiously synchronised by the epidermis, a task dependent on the multifaceted character of the stratum corneum (Rawlings & Harding, 2004:43). The stratum corneum (SC) is responsible for the main resistance to the penetration of most compounds; nevertheless the skin represents as an appropriate target for delivery. The target site for anti-ageing treatment includes the epidermal and dermal layers of the skin. Therefore, the need to apply fatty materials to the skin is practically intuitive and may perhaps be as old as man’s existence itself (Lodén, 2005:672). Natural therapies have been used for several decades for taking care of skin illnesses and a wide variety of dermatological disorders, such as inflammation, phototoxicity, atopic dermatitis and alopecia areata (Aburjai & Natsheh, 2003:988). Using the skin as an alternative route for the administration of honeybush extracts for the treatment of ageing skin may be beneficial. Tea contains more than 500 chemical compounds, including, tannins, flavonoids, amino acids, vitamins, caffeine and polysaccharides. Tea polyphenols (flavonoids) have proven anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiallergic, antibacterial and antiviral effects (Aburjai & Natsheh, 2003:990). Unfortunately using the skin as an alternative route for administering drugs (transdermal drug delivery) has numerous limitations. One of these limitations is the barrier function of the skin (Naik et al., 2000:319). Because of the skin’s outstanding ability to protect the body against unwanted substances from its surroundings, it is necessary to use methods to enhance drug penetration through the skin. The aim of this study was to formulate two 2% semisolid formulations containing two different honeybush extracts as the active ingredient, and to determine which of the formulations deliver mangiferin and hesperidin best to the target site (dermis). Cosmetic formulations of a natural origin, is designed to protect the skin against exogenous or endogenous harmful agents, as well as to balance the dermal homeostatis lipids altered by dermatosis and ageing (Aburjai & Natsheh, 2003:988). Stability tests over a three month period were also performed on the different formulations. To determine the stability of the different semi-solid formulations, the formulated products were stored at 25 °C/60% RH (relative humidity), 30 °C/60% RH and 40 °C/75% RH. HPLC analysis was used to determine the concentrations of the ingredients in all the formulated products. Other stability tests included appearance, pH, viscosity, mass loss, zeta potential and particle size determination. Unfortunately a change in colour, viscosity, zeta potential, mass loss, particle size and concentration of the ingredients in both the formulations, indicated that the products were unstable from the first month of stability testing. A 2% Cyclopia maculata cream as well as a 2% Cyclopia genistoides cream was formulated. Franz cell diffusion studies as well as membrane release studies were performed over a 12 h period, followed by tape stripping experiments to determine which semi-solid formulation delivered mangiferin and hesperidin the best to the dermal layer of the skin. The results of the different formulations were compared. Unfortunately there was no significant penetration by any of the honeybush extracts. Results were inconclusive and unquantifiable due to unconvincing penetration results. The antioxidant properties of both the extracts and the active ingredients were calculated. Antioxidant studies by the use of the TBA-assay method were done to determine whether the honeybush extracts, mangiferin and hesperidin as well as their semisolid formulations had any antioxidant activities. Both the honeybush extracts and the semisolid formulations showed promising results. Mangiferin and hesperidin did not show any antioxidant activity on their own, therefore the assumption can be confirmed that plants do function synergistically. A clinical study was also conducted to see whether honeybush extracts have the potential to hydrate the skin, counteracting the symptoms and signs of skin ageing. Clinical efficacy studies were done to determine whether the honeybush formulations had any skin hydrating effects in the treatment against skin ageing. The results were statistically inconclusive and variations between the subjects were very high due to skin variations at different skin sites. There was however a trend that Cyclopia genistoides performed the best. / Thesis (MSc (Pharmaceutics))--North-West University, Potchefstroom Campus, 2013.

Natural oils are regularly used in cosmetics and as treatment for numeral skin conditions (Nielsen, 2006:575). The natural products industry is a multibillion dollar industry and has grown tremendously over the past few years. Natural oils used in cosmetics contain a range of fatty acids which contribute to several valuable properties in cosmetic- and personal care products. Fatty acids are divided into saturated acids and unsaturated acids (Vermaak et al., 2011:920,922). Because of the popularity and wide diversity of skin care products, it is necessary to create products that will distinguish themselves from the rest of the commercial products. To include natural oils in skin care products is a new way to prevent skin ageing, as well as other dermatological conditions. In this study, a natural oil, namely crocodile oil was used. Crocodile oil is obtained from the fat of the Nile crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus). Crocodile oil has the same composition as human skin oil. It only differs with regard to the percentages of the ingredients present. Crocodile oil contains saturated and unsaturated fatty acids. Because of the similar composition as human skin oil, crocodile oil will rarely be allergenic when applied to human skin and therefore will be a very accepted and harmless product to use (Croc city, 2012). There are many claims of positive results when crocodile oil containing products have been used. It includes fading of freckles, treatment of acne and pimple marks, dark lines, wrinkles and laugh lines. It also includes vanishing of dark shadows, sun spots and other discolorations. It helps prevent discolorations from forming and makes the skin softer, brighter and more attractive. It also controls rashness and dryness (Croc city, 2012). Because of crocodile oil’s anti-ageing, anti-fungal and anti-bacterial effects claimed by crocodile oil suppliers, and due to the fact that little scientific data is available on crocodile oil, it was decided to investigate the claims. In this study, the aims and objectives were to use natural oil, namely crocodile oil, and investigate the fatty acid profile, anti-microbial and anti-fungal activity, anti-oxidant activity, toxicity studies, stability determination of crocodile oil lotion and clinical efficacy testing of the anti-ageing effects. To determine the fatty acid profile of crocodile oil, fatty acid methyl ester (FAME) analysis with gas chromatography were used. Identification of FAME peaks in the samples was made by comparing the relative retention times of FAME peaks from samples to those of reference standards. The composition of fatty acids in crocodile oil compared well to fatty acids found in human skin oil. Anti-microbial and anti-fungal tests were done by Envirocare Laboratories, North-West University, Potchefstroom. Staphylococcus aureus, Esterichia coli, Pseudomanas aeruginosa, Candida albicans, Brasiliensis, Propionibacterium acnes and Trichophyton rubrum cultures were used to determine the anti-microbial and anti-fungal activity of crocodile oil. Unfortunately no activity was observed. The anti-oxidant properties of crocodile oil and crocodile oil lotion were determined by using the most commonly used method for measuring Malondialdehyde (MDA) in biological samples, namely the thiobarbituric acid (TBA) test. This method is based on spectrophotometric quantification of the pink complex formed after reaction of MDA with two molecules of TBA. No anti-oxidant activity was observed in the oil or the lotion. Toxicity studies were performed by Dr. D. Goosen (BVSc Hons. Pret.) from Tswane University of Technology (Pretoria, South Africa). The studies showed that the lotion had no toxicity in the skin sensitisation, acute dermal toxicity and acute dermal irritation studies. To determine the stability of the crocodile oil lotion, the formulated products were store at 25 °C / 60% RH (relative humidity), 30 °C / 60% RH and 40 °C / 75% RH for 6 months in the original packaging as well as a glass container. The stability tests included pH, viscosity, visual appearance assessment, zeta-potential, droplet size and mass loss. The crocodile cream lotion was stable over the 6 months period in both containers. Clinical efficacy testing was performed at the CEL (Clinical Efficacy Laboratory) of the North-West University, Potchefstroom, South Africa. A short-term study over a period of 3 h was performed to investigate the hydrating effects of crocodile oil lotion. A long-term study over a period of 12 weeks was performed to examine the anti-ageing effects of crocodile oil lotion. An erythema study was also conducted to test the anti-erythema properties of crocodile oil lotion. Although the crocodile oil lotion as well as the placebo lotion showed an increase in skin hydration, there was no significant difference between the two treatments. Crocodile oil lotion also showed no anti-erythema properties. / Thesis (PhD (Pharmaceutics))--North-West University, Potchefstroom Campus, 2013.