The trade unions called in May 2005 for a nationwide strike of all retail stores unless the retail stores agree to stock a 75% local content of garments on their shelves. Retail stores have called on the Department of Trade and Industry for a national summit to address the crisis facing the clothing industry. The Department of Trade and Industry in turn has appointed a task team to investigate the current situation in the clothing industry. On the surface it would appear that there is a serious crisis in the clothing manufacturing industry in South Africa and there is, but the big issue is what is causing the crisis. The answer is simply, the strength of the rand. This study was prepared to determine the reasons for the demise of the clothing manufacturing industry in South Africa. The study conducted a survey on various parties and organisations concerned with the wellbeing of the industry to determine what their opinions were relating to the crisis facing the industry. The results of the survey revealed a host of reasons contributing to the decline of the industry. These reasons include the rigidness and inflexibility of the labour relations system in South Africa which has led to an unproductive and inefficient labour force in the industry. The lack of investment incentives in the industry is also determined as a cause of the crisis in the industry. Retail buyers are deemed to be price makers forcing the industry to seek alternative means away from local manufacture to reduce prices resulting in the importation of garment from abroad. / Thesis (MBA)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, Durban, 2005.

Thesis (BTech (Fashion Design))--Cape Peninsula University of Technology, 2010 / Children grow at fast rates. Due to this fact, parents constantly need to purchase new clothes as children out grow their clothes before it becomes fully worn. Parents spend thousands each year on children's clothing only to have them disposed of before it has reached its maximum wear ability. The purpose of this research is to analyse children's growth pattems and investigate means of increasing the lifespan! wear ability of children's clothing. The practise of increasing the lifespan! wear ability of clothing lends itself to the Sustainable Design paradigm that encourages designers to create products (garments) with longer lifecycles and discourages waste at every stage of the products lifespan. The process of "tossing out" clothes or not wearing it to its maximum utilization creates waste and fuels mass consumption.As a result masses of clothing end up in landfills and due to its mainly synthetic nature, it causes harm to the environment. By incorporating innovative design and construction techniques I aim to explore methods of adjusting garments according to the growth experienced by children annually. This will allow children to wear the garments for a longer period eliminating the need for parents to purchase new clothing when the clothes no longer fit.

Thesis (DSc (Consumer Science)--University of Stellenbosch, 2006. / 326 leaves on CD format, preliminary i-xix pages and numbered pages 1-210. Includes bibliography, list of tables, figures and appendixes. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: This research focused on the need of the children’s wear industry in South Africa for sizing systems based on accurate and current body measurement tables developed from the actual measurements of children. The broad objective of this study was to develop standardised measuring methodologies and techniques which would be relevant to the subsequent development of reliable, accurate and comprehensive body measurement tables. These tables could then be implemented as a basis for the development of new sizing systems, as well as new, improved and authentic fit dummy ranges. The literature study served as a point of departure for the planning and execution of the empirical study, focusing on sizing and size designation systems. The study population comprised children representative of three categories, namely age (2 to 14 years), gender (boys and girls) and sector (Black and Non-Black) categories. A convenience sample was selected, representing children from two geographical areas (Western Cape and Gauteng). The empirical study has a three phase structure. The first pilot study aimed at developing standardised measuring equipment, as well as the methodologies and properly recorded guidelines for their implementation. The specific standards according to which subjects were measured and the strict quality control measures implemented to ensure the validity, reliability and accuracy of recorded data, were confirmed during the second pilot study. Based on this, the final study was executed following the guidelines as recorded in the Field Worker Manual. The statistical analysis was done after data capturing during which the data sets were first cleaned up. Secondly, the key measurements for use as a basis for the development of the sizing systems were identified. Based on these, body measurement tables were compiled and age of gender split and growth patterns were analysed for fit dummy prototype development. The new size designation system developed for children’s clothing was successfully implemented as a multi-indicator system, linking height ranges with both age ranges and numerical size indicators. The development of the subsequent new and improved fit dummy prototypes was based on measurements within minimum and maximum values of the body measurements, in order to facilitate the construction of these three-dimensional bodies. It was also possible to develop complete body measurement tables with accurate, and notably irregular, increments between sizes as well as to determine specific growth patterns and separate growth spurts for both boys and girls. This study made new and original as well as more detailed and correct information available concerning the size and shape of the typical South African children’s wear consumer. Using the information contained in the new height based sizing system, retailers have been able to develop a proper set of grade rules for application in product development. The identification and demarcation of important body landmarks facilitated pattern drafting, garment development and fit assessments, resulting in an improved product offering for the typical South African children’s wear consumer. Recommendations regarding further research were formulated, such as comparing the study population categories, namely gender, age and sector. Implications for retailers, inter alia that each retail company could choose how to implement the new height based sizing system and the specific size designation system most suitably for their own consumers and internal systems. The standards set and methodologies implemented in this survey were an improvement on the sizing and fit of children’s wear in the context of South African manufacturers, retailers and consumers. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Hierdie navorsing fokus op die behoefte van die Suid-Afrikaanse kinderklerekleinhandelbedryf aan ‘n sisteem van kleregroottes, gebaseer op akkurate en huidige liggaamsmate-tabelle wat ontwikkel is van die werklike mates van kinders. Die oorkoepelende doelstelling van hierdie studie was om gestandaardiseerde meetmetodologieë en -tegnieke te ontwikkel wat relevant is vir die daarstelling van betroubare, akkurate en omvattende liggaamsmate-tabelle, wat dan gebruik kan word as basis vir die nuwe kleregroottesisteem, sowel as om nuwe, verbeterde en oorspronklike figuurmodelreekse te ontwikkel. Die literatuurstudie het gedien as vertrekpunt vir die beplanning en uitvoering van die empiriese studie met die fokus op kleregroottesisteme en kleregrootteaanwysingsisteme. Die kinders in die studiepopulasie het drie kategorieë verteenwoordig: ouderdom (2 tot 14 jaar), geslag (seuns en meisies) en sektor (Swart en Nie-Swart). ‘n Gerieflikheidsteekproef is uit twee geografiese areas (Wes-Kaap en Gauteng) gekies. Die empiriese studie het ‘n drie-fase-struktuur. Die eerste loodsstudie het ten doel gehad om gestandaardiseerde meettoerusting, meetmetodologieë en behoorlik aangetekende implementeringsriglyne daar te stel. Die spesifieke standaarde waarvolgens die proefpersone gemeet is en die implementering van streng kwaliteitbeheermaatreëls wat geldige, betroubare en akkuraat vasgelegde data verseker, is tydens die tweede loodsstudie bevestig. Die finale studie is gebaseer op en uitgevoer volgens die riglyne soos uiteengesit in die Field Worker Manual. Die statistiese analise is gedoen nadat die data vasgelê en skoongemaak is. Vervolgens is sleutelmates geïdentifiseer wat as basis vir die ontwikkeling van kleregroottesisteme kan dien. Volledige liggaamsmate-tabelle is daarna ontwikkel. Die identifisering van die geslagverdelingsouderdom, sowel as die analisering van groeipatrone vir die ontwikkeling van figuurmodelle, is hierop gebaseer. Die nuwe klere-aanwysingsisteme wat ontwikkel is vir kinderklere is suksesvol geïmplementeer as ‘n veelvoudige aanwysingsisteem wat liggaamslengtereekse met ouderdomsreekse en numeriese grootte-aanwysers koppel. Die nuwe en verbeterde figuurmodel-prototipes wat vervolgens ontwikkel is, is gebaseer op minimum en maksimum waardes van die liggaamsmates ten einde die konstruksie van die driedimensionele figure te vergemaklik. Daarbenewens was dit moontlik om volledige liggaamsmate-tabelle met akkurate en opmerklik ongelyke inkremente tussen groottes daar te stel, sowel as om die spesifieke groeipatrone en afsonderlike groeitoenames vir beide seuns en meises te bepaal. Die studie het nuwe en oorspronklike, sowel as meer gedetailleerde en korrekte inligting ten opsigte van die grootte en vorm van die tipiese Suid-Afrikaanse kinderklereverbruiker beskikbaar gestel. Met hierdie nuwe kennis van die liggaamslengte-gebaseerde kleregroottesisteem, is dit nou vir kleinhandelaars moontlik om ‘n volledige stel graderingsreëls daar te stel en in produkontwikkeling toe te pas. Die identifikasie en afbakening van belangrike liggaamsbakens vergemaklik patroon- en klereontwikkeling sowel as die evaluering van die mate waarin dit pas; dit waarborg ‘n verbeterde produk vir die tipiese Suid-Afrikaanse kinderklereverbruiker. Aanbevelings vir verdere navorsing is gemaak, soos ‘n vergelyking van die studiepopulasiekategorieë, naamlik geslag, ouderdom en sektor. Die implikasies vir kleinhandelaars is onder meer dat elke kleinhandelaar kan kies hoe om hierdie nuwe liggaamslengte-gebaseerde kleregroottesisteem te implementer en watter die mees geskikte kleregrootte-aanwysingsisteem vir hul verbruikers en interne sisteme sal wees. Die standaarde wat vir hierdie studie gestel is, sowel as die metodologieë wat geïmplementeer is, is ‘n aansienlike verbetering op die groottes en pas van kinderklere binne die konteks van die Suid-Afrikaanse vervaardigers, kleinhandelaars en verbruikers.

Thesis (MTech (Business Administration))--Cape Peninsula University of Technology, 2007 / An assessment undertaken by the Clothing and Textile Centre in the Western Cape (Clotex) during 2002 revealed that there was a great need for quality in the clothing sector. Furthermore, the research undertaken by the Department of Science and Technology (2004) supports and recommends the development of simple, paper-based systems for implementation and measurement for quality and production systems. An analysis of the macro- and micro-environmental factors confronting the clothing industry revealed that substantial pressure was placed on the clothing industry due to unfavourable exchange rates, increased pricing and illegal imports. The result has been a decline in sales, profits and exports, which has lead to the closure of many clothing companies in the Western Cape during the period 2003 to present. Furthermore, this has resulted in the increase of SMME companies that have been established due to the increase in unemployment. A combination of qualitative and quantitative research techniques was applied during this study, namely focus-group sessions and survey questionnaires. Six focus-group sessions were held with participants from the retail sector, large manufacturers and small manufacturers with the purpose to establish the quality needs in the clothing industry and the type of quality systems utilised. The outcome of the focus group was the development of a questionnaire, using both a combination of scale response questions as well as dichotomous questions. As a result a research survey was conducted amongst the small manufacturing companies in the Western Cape who conform to the provisions contained in the National Business Act, 1996 (Act 102 of 1996). The research revealed that all the respondents had implemented quality control systems. Quality control systems are viewed as preventative systems in ensuring that goods not conforming to customer specifications are prevented from reaching the customer. The research analysis further revealed that communication between buyer and seller was an integral part of the success of the business. The research provides small-business with a framework, which will facilitate the evaluation of the current quality practices with the view to improving or implementing an effective quality assurance system.

Thesis (MTech (Quality)) -- Cape Peninsula University of Technology, 2010 / Since 1996, the South African clothing and textile industries have been under tremendous pressure to improve the competitiveness of the industry. Various attempts to save the industry have been considered by both industry and Government. The attempts included the introduction of quotas with the aim to limit imports, the formulation of clusters, and improving the value chain between the clothing manufacture textile companies and the clothing retail companies. More specific, focus was leveled at the improvement of the industry’s productivity and quality management systems. In spite of these efforts, sectors of the South African clothing and textile industries are closing down. Although the clothing and textile industries are experiencing a decline in large companies, there has been a steady increase in the number of emerging Small Medium Enterprises (SME’s) commonly referred to as CMT’s (Cut Make and Trims) within the context of the clothing industry. The research question which was researched within the ambit of this dissertation read as follows: What actions are required for Total Quality Management (TQM) to be successful implemented within South African clothing manufacturing SME’s?” The objective of this research was to determine what challenges are facing South African clothing manufacturing SME’s, and the reasons for the lack of successful implementation of TQM systems within the South African clothing manufacturing SME’s. Furthermore, to determine if there is a relationship between the planning behavior of SME’s and lack of TQM implementation and to what extent the accreditation process impact upon TQM implementations within SME’s. The survey conducted within SME’s provided positive feedback with respect to quality processes being followed. In spite of this the following challenges were identified: The lack of employee involvement in decision-making, miscommunication between management and employees, and the dissatisfaction of employees.

This study proposes a loyalty segmentation model for the South African men's retail credit fashion industry. Retailers operate in a highly competitive market where competitors strive for share-of-wallet of the same customer. The likely victor in this battle is the retailer who best understands customer needs, purchase behaviour and utilises this information to influence customer's spending patterns. The research method comprised a postal survey to randomly selected customers. The process included the construct of the loyalty model which comprised four input models, namely the Competitiveness, Brand experience, Referral and Credit appeal models as well as a number of customer demographics. The Desert scenario, where extreme conditions exist, is used as the analogy for the Segmentation model, with four macro segments (Desert, Oasis, Sand Storm, Rain clouds) being used to categorise respondents along two criteria, namely that of value and relative risk. Segment characteristics are used to segment the retailer's database. / Business Management / MCom (Business Management)

Thesis (MVerbruikerswet)--University of Stellenbosch, 2006. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: The retail environment in South Africa is dynamic and complex. The apparel retailing industry functions within an emergent economic milieu, and the consumers it targets are exposed to various factors that influence their shopping behaviour. Some of these factors are shopping orientation, patronage behaviour, lifestyle, and shopping mall behaviour. Male apparel shopping behaviour can therefore be regarded as a complex phenomenon. The aim of this study was to identify those factors that influence male apparel shopping behaviour and to determine whether distinct clusters of male apparel shoppers could be identified. Theoretical models in the study discipline of Consumer Behaviour were investigated. The information was synthesised into an expanded conceptual model of variables influencing male apparel shopping behaviour. The variables that are relevant to this study, include demographic characteristics, lifestyle, shopping orientation, patronage behaviour, and shopping mall behaviour. Information for this exploratory study was generated by means of a store-intercept interview. The questionnaire was based on previous research. Trained fieldworkers conducted the interviews with 297 male apparel shoppers. Eight lifestyle components were identified and labelled as follows: Apparel oriented lifestyle; Performing arts defined lifestyle; Media oriented lifestyle; Socialising lifestyle; Sport oriented lifestyle; Published information oriented lifestyle; Relaxing oriented lifestyle as well as Family/community oriented lifestyle. The three shopping orientation components identified were labelled Local store patronage; Credit prone, Brand conscious and fashion innovating; as well as Shopping self-confidence and enjoyment. Four cluster profiles of male apparel shoppers were formed by means of cluster analysis, according to the eight lifestyles components and three shopping orientation components, as well as the 11 patronage behaviour items. Demographic characteristics describing each cluster profile completed the typology of the four male apparel shopper groups. Cluster 1 was the largest (38%) and was labelled Traditionalists. Its members were classified under Consumer Scope Lifestyle Level 4. Cluster 2 was labelled Shopping enthusiasts, and its members were classified under Consumer Scope Lifestyle Level 3; they comprised 19% of the total group. Cluster 3 was the second largest (30%) cluster and was identified as Dynamics, and its members were classified under Consumer Scope Lifestyle Level 3 and 4. Cluster 4 (13%) was labelled as Laggards, and its members were classified under Consumer Scope Lifestyle Level 2. It was evident that the male apparel market is not homogeneous and that it could be clustered into distinct segments of male apparel shoppers with similar characteristics. The following can be regarded as the main implications for retailers, shopping mall management, and marketers: • In order to make retailers’ marketing plan more focused and strategic, marketers could make use of the proposed expanded conceptual model that provides them with an overall view of variables influencing male apparel shopping behaviour within a shopping mall environment. The identified profiles of male apparel shoppers could serve as point of departure when composing marketing strategies. • Advertising and promotional campaigns must be versatile in order to cater for the identified cluster profiles of male apparel consumers. • Male apparel consumers behave differently within different retail stores and shopping malls. Retailers and shopping mall management should therefore attempt to understand their consumers’ needs, wants and, more importantly, prerequisites for patronising their stores and/or shopping malls. South African male apparel consumers should not be considered a homogenous group. Further research should be done across various cultural and ethnic groups, as well as across different gender and age groups. This study focused only on a few concepts pertaining to male apparel shoppers aged 20-35. As, a result, further research is needed to assess the impact of these variables on a wider spectrum of apparel consumers, such as males outside this age demarcation, females or teenagers, and mature shoppers. Recommendations for future research were made which can guide and encourage further scientific research in the field of apparel shopping behaviour. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Suid-Afrika beskik oor ‘n dinamiese en komplekse kleinhandelomgewing. Die klerekleinhandelindustrie funksioneer binne ‘n ontwikkelende ekonomiese milieu, en ‘n verskeidenheid faktore beinvloed die teikenverbruikers se koopgedrag. Sommige van die faktore is koop-oriëntasie, winkelvoorkeurgedrag, lewenstyl en winkelsentrumgedrag. Mansklerekoopgedrag kan dus as a komplekse verskynsel beskou word. Die doel van hierdie studie was om die veranderlikes wat mansklerekoopgedrag beïnvloed te identifiseer, en om te bepaal of die onderskeibare groepe van mansklereverbruikers geïdentifiseer kan word. Teoretiese modelle in die studieveld van Verbruikergedrag is bestudeer. Die inligting is verfyn en verder ontwikkel tot ‘n omvattende konseptuele model van veranderlikes wat mansklerekoopgedrag beïnvloed. Die veranderlikes relevant vir hierdie studie sluit in: die demografiese eienskappe, lewenstyl, kooporiëntasie, winkelvoorkeurgedrag, asook winkelsentrumgedrag. Data vir hierdie verkennende studie is verkry deur respondente in winkels te nader vir ‘n onderhoud (store intercept interview). Die vraelys is op vorige navorsing gebaseer. Opgeleide veldwerkers het 297 onderhoude gevoer met mansklereverbruikers. Agt lewenstylkomponente is geïdentifiseer en soos volg benoem: Klere-georiënteerde lewenstyl; Uitvoerende kunste-georënteerde lewenstyl; Mediageoriënteerde lewenstyl; Sosialiserings-georiënteerde lewenstyl; Sport-georiënteerde lewenstyl; Gepubiseerde informasie-georiënteerde lewenstyl; Ontspannings-georiënteerde lewenstyl asook Familie/gemeenskaps-georiënteerde lewenstyl. Die drie kooporiëntasie-komponente was benoem as plaaslike winkelvoorkeuroriëntasie; krediet-geneigdheid, handelsmerk en mode-innoverende oriëntasie, asook aankoop-selfvertroue en genot-oriëntasie. Vier groepe profiele van mansklereverbruikers is deur middel van trosanalise gevorm. Die trosanalise is gedoen op grond van die agt lewenstylkomponente, die drie kooporiëntasie komponente asook die 11 winkelvoorkeurgedrag-items. Die tipering van die vier groepe is afgerond deur die demografiese eienskappe: Groep 1 was die grootste (38%) en is Traditionalists genoem, en is geklassifiseer as Consumer Scope Lifestyle Level 4. Groep 2 is Shopping enthusiasts genoem en maak 19% van die totale groep uit. Hulle is geklassifiseer as Consumer Scope Lifestyle Level 3. Groep 3 was die tweede grootste (30%) groep en is Dynamics genoem, en is geklassifiseer as Consumer Scope Lifestyle Levels 3 en 4. Groep 4 (13%) is Laggards genoem en geklassifiseer as Consumer Scope Lifestyle Level 2. Dit is dus duidelik dat die mansklere-aankopersmark nie homogeen is nie en dat hulle in onderskeibare segmente van mansklere-aankopers met ooreenkomstige eienskappe gegroepeer kan word. Die volgende kan beskou word as die belangrikste implikasies vir kleinhandelaars, winkelsentrumbestuur en bemarkers: • Om kleinhandelaars se bemarkingsplan ‘n meer gefokusde en strategiese wending te gee, kan hulle gebruik maak van die voorgestelde uitgebreide konseptuele model wat hul van ‘n oorsig voorsien oor die veranderlikes wat mansklere-aankoopgedrag binne ‘n winkelsentrumomgewing beïnvloed. Die geïdentifiseerde profiele van mansklere-aankopers kan as vertrekpunt dien wanneer bemarkingstrategieë saamgestel word. • Advertensie- en promosieveldtogte moet veelsydig wees om vir die geïdentifiseerde groepe van mansklereverbruikers of -aankopers te voorsien. • Mansklereverbruikers toon verskillende soorte gedrag in verskillende kleinhandelwinkels en winkelsentrums. Kleinhandelaars en winkelsentrumbestuur moet ‘n poging aanwend om hul verbruikers se behoeftes en begeertes, maar bowenal in hul voorkeurgedrag vir winkels/winkelsentrums, te voorsien. Suid-Afrikaanse mansklereverbruikers moet nie as ‘n homogene groep beskou word nie. Verdere navorsing moet oor verskeie kulturele en etniese groepe heen, asook oor verskillende geslags- en ouderdomsgroepe, gedoen word. Hierdie studie fokus alleenlik op ‘n paar konsepte wat betrekking het op mansklereverbruikers tussen 20 en 35 jaar. Gevolglik word verdere navorsing benodig om die impak van hierdie veranderlikes op ‘n wyer spektrum van verbruikers te beraam, byvoorbeeld mans buite die ouderdomsperk, vrouens, tienderjariges, en bejaarde verbruikers. Aanbevelings vir toekomstige navorsing word gemaak wat verdere wetenskaplike navorsing in die studieveld van klereaankoopgedrag kan rig en aanmoedig.

The clothing industry is multifaceted and is characterised by garments with a short life cycle, unstable customer needs and varying fashion styles. This affects the accuracy of demand planning. In SA, the clothing industry has experienced a decline in the number of clothing manufacturers and manufacturing outputs as well as fluctuations in employment. This study investigates demand planning practices in the Gauteng clothing industry. A descriptive and exploratory study was conducted based on a semi-structured questionnaire. The structured data was descriptively analysed using SPSS and inferentially analysed using the Kruskal‒Wallis test as well as content analysis for the unstructured questions. The findings revealed that demand planning practices in the Gauteng clothing industry are conducted using the hierarchical and optimal demand planning approaches. The results also revealed that there are certain factors which affect the way demand planning is conducted in the clothing industry in Gauteng. These factors includes: scheduling, fashion clothes, point of sale system, imports, estimation, recession and lead time. Furthermore, the study revealed that there are differences in the factors affecting demand planning regarding the three key clothing stakeholders (fabric suppliers, clothing manufacturers and fashion designers). The study revealed that key demand planning practices employed in the Gauteng clothing industry are production planning, uncertainty prevention, forecasting and production machine capabilities. These practices are important attributes of the hierarchical and optimal demand planning approaches. The study recommends that the hierarchical demand planning approach is more effective when planning for basic clothes (which involved planning horizon of twelve months), while the optimal demand planning approach is effective when planning for fashion clothes (which involved planning horizon of six months). The study recommends that the Gauteng clothing industry should consider factors which affect demand planning when planning for customers' needs as they affect the level of productivity in the organisation. / Entrepreneurship Supply Chain Transport Tourism and Logistics Management / M. Com.(Logistics)

This study proposes a loyalty segmentation model for the South African men's retail credit fashion industry. Retailers operate in a highly competitive market where competitors strive for share-of-wallet of the same customer. The likely victor in this battle is the retailer who best understands customer needs, purchase behaviour and utilises this information to influence customer's spending patterns. The research method comprised a postal survey to randomly selected customers. The process included the construct of the loyalty model which comprised four input models, namely the Competitiveness, Brand experience, Referral and Credit appeal models as well as a number of customer demographics. The Desert scenario, where extreme conditions exist, is used as the analogy for the Segmentation model, with four macro segments (Desert, Oasis, Sand Storm, Rain clouds) being used to categorise respondents along two criteria, namely that of value and relative risk. Segment characteristics are used to segment the retailer's database. / Business Management / MCom (Business Management)

One of the greatest challenges facing the clothing industry worldwide, including South Africa is to provide well fitting garments to a broadly defined target population (Ashdown, Loker & Rucker 2007:1; Schofield, Ashdown, Hethorn, LaBat & Salusso 2006:147). Yu (2004:32) further states that from the consumers’ perspective, physical and psychological comfort as well as appearance play an important role in determining a well fitting garment and these are most likely to be shaped by the individual’s personal values. According to Kaiser (1998:290), personal values refer to standards or principles that guide an individual’s actions and thoughts that help to define what is important by guiding one’s choices or preferences of how the garment should fit. Hence garment fit and the subsequent appearance serves as a personal expression, communicating some personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:290) that can be achieved through the fitting of the garment. When female consumers encounter garment fit problems either through body shapes, garment sizing or garment size label communication, an emotional experience may result due to the failure to attain the personal values they are aiming to uphold or achieve. Cognitive appraisal theory of emotions is one of the theories among others that attempts to understand why people experience emotions. Lazarus (2001:55) defines cognitive appraisal theory of emotions as a quick evaluation of a situation with respect to one’s wellbeing. The answers to these evaluations directly cause the emotions experienced by a person. Since clothing can be used to express personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:146), the social standards appraisal dimension which can be one of the evaluative questions in the theory of cognitive appraisal concerning a situation, was the relevant evaluative component which this study focused on. This appraisal dimension evaluates whether the situation, in this case the negative experience of an ill-fitting garment affects what the consumer aspires to achieve socially through garment fit. Numerous studies such as Horwaton and Lee (2010); Pisut and Connell (2007) and Alexander, Connell & Presley (2005) on the garment fit problems from a consumer’s perspective have mostly been conducted in developed countries with limited research focusing on the consumers and their emotional experiences with garment fit. Understanding the factors that contribution to the garment fit problem currently being faced by female consumers in South Africa is an essential step in creating awareness of how this problem affects female consumers emotionally and the influence it has on their purchasing decisions. The purpose of this study is, therefore, to determine the female consumers’ personal values attributed to garment fit and to identify the emotions resulting from the perceptions of garment fit. This study predominantly employed an exploratory qualitative research approach. Data were collected from a purposive and convenient sample of 62 females from the UNISA – Florida Campus and King David High School in Victory Park in Johannesburg, South Africa through a self-administered questionnaire. Data on the demographic profile that included the ethnicity and age of the participants as well as data on the psychographic profile of the participants concerning frequently patronized clothing retailers, garment fit preferences and self-reported body shapes were collected through closed-ended questions. These data were analysed using the quantitative method of descriptive analysis. In addition to the psychographic profile of the most frequently patronized clothing retailer and garment fit preferences, participants were further requested to provide reasons as to why they mostly patronized the clothing retailer they ranked number 1, and to provide a reason for their preferred garment fit option. Content analysis, a qualitative method, was used to analyse the reasons provided by the participants for both these questions. Content analysis was also performed on additional information on body shape and garment sizing as well as data on garment size label communication. Furthermore, the means-end chain approach through the hard laddering exercises was used to explore and determine the female consumers’ personal values and emotions depicted through the perceptions of garment fit. Data from the hard laddering interviews on body shapes and garment sizing were carefully coded and categorized into attributes, consequences and personal values. Data were presented through the hierarchical value maps (HVMs) which were constructed through the software program Mecanalyst V 9.1. The analysis established that attributes such as quality of garments, various garment styles, availability of sizes, and fashionable styles directed female consumers’ most frequented clothing retailers. These attributes seemed to be aligned with their personal values they seek when shopping for garments. The findings also showed that most female consumers in this study preferred semi-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general, a reasonable number of the participants preferred tight-fitting pants (31%), and some participants preferred loose-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general. The specific personal values such as the comfortability of the garment, modesty, cover-up perceived body shape “flaws” and slimming effect which female consumers in this study desire to achieved through clothing also influenced their garment fit preference. With regard to the perceived self-reported body shapes of the participants, the study reflected that the majority of the participants were triangular body shaped. The study further found that female consumers in this study have expectations of how a garment ought to fit their body. Their expectations seem to be shaped by certain personal values such as “confidence”, “freedom” or “look good” which they aspire to achieve through clothing and garment fit. However, due to variations in body shapes, problems of garment sizing they encounter when purchasing ready-to wear garments and the incorrect information communicated on the size labels or the lack thereof, the majority of the female consumers failed to achieve their personal values. As a result mainly negative emotions such as “frustrated”, “sad”, “confused” and “depressed” were expressed by the participants. With regards to the effect of the perceived garment fit on the purchasing decision, the study found that fit of the garment is an important determinant of making a purchase. However, where female consumers in this study showed an interest of purchasing, while aware of some fit problems, the study found that exceptional conditions such as the possibility of altering the garments and design features such as colours that would conceal their perceived “figure flaws, made it easier for them to decide to purchase. The study further highlighted that some participants only purchased their ready-to-wear garment at certain shops where their needs were catered for and only when they had enough time to try-on the garment they intend to purchase instead of relying on the garment sizing and garment size label communication. Where participants indicated they would not purchase a garment with fitting problems, the study found that some female consumers in this study copied the designs of the garments in the clothing retailers and had someone reproduce it for them, whilst a few female consumers refused to purchase a garment whose size label was incorrectly communicated. Lastly the study also revealed that most female consumers thought that body shape, garment sizing and garment size label communication contribute to garment fit problems female consumers are currently facing in South Africa. It is, therefore, recommended that clothing manufacturers consider the various body shapes in their garment charts, know the needs of their target market and also use uniform sizing and size labelling systems that are easily understood by consumers that purchase ready-to-wear garments from retailers in South Africa. / Life & Consumer Sciences / M. Sc. (Consumer Science)