Denna kandidatuppsats undersöker överdelsplagg och den förflyttning de gör i förhållande till kroppen i rörelse. För att kunna utveckla plagg med smarta funktioner med sensorer eller aktivatorer vars uppgift är att avläsa eller stimulera en specifik punkt på kroppen, är det viktigt att förstå hur plaggets förflyttas i förhållande i kroppen i rörelse. I det syftet utfördes denna studie genom att frivilliga testpersoner skannades i 3D scanner med ett testplagg med markeringar för avmätningar i olika positioner. Positioner som undersöktes i studien var baserade på det rörelsemönstret som är observerat i vardagslivet i Sverige. Studien avsåg även att se över om förflyttningen har olika karaktär för storlekar. Både män och kvinnor deltog i studien i storlekarna S, M och L. Den största förflyttningen skedde vid lyft av båda armarna över huvudet. Det gick även att observera skillnader i förflyttningen mellan de olika storlekarna. Det finns ett behov att uppmärksamma dessa förflyttningar för konstruktion av plagg med sensorer och aktivatorer. / This bachelor thesis is exploring how upperbody garments and the movement the garment does in relation to the body in movement. To be able to develop garments with smart technology with sensors and activators, which jobs are to read or stimulate a specific point of the body, it is important to understand the displacement of the garment when the body moves. In purpose of this, this study is performed by having people volunteer for 3D body scanning wearing a test garment with markers for measurements in different postures. The postures that were examined was based on the pattern of movement that was observed in the daily life in Sweden. The study aimed to see how the displacements changes in different sizes. Both men and women took part in this study in the sizes S, M and L. The biggest displacement was in the posture where the participants lifted their hands above their heads. It was possible to observe differences in the displacement between the sizes. There is a need to observe these movements to be able to make constructions suitable for garments with sensors and activators.

Syftet med studien är att försöka lösa passformsproblem på trikåmodeller till dam som har en förlängd axel. Studien skrivs i samarbete med ett stort svenskt klädföretag och undersöker ett problem som företaget själva har identifierat. Problemet gäller passformen på några av företagets trikåmodeller till dam som alla har en förlängd axel och en lösare passform. Passformsproblemen som trikåmodellerna upplevs ha uppstår vid just axeln, ärmhålet och överärmsvidden. Inom forskning och litteratur saknas det information kring passformsproblem och åtgärder vid konstruktion av trikåplagg med en förlängd axel. I dagsläget har inte företaget tid att själva testa och utveckla trikåmodellerna och studien har därför fokuserat på att försöka lösa problemet med passformen åt dem. För att uppnå syftet har en experimentell metod använts. Denna har utförts via digital mönsterkonstruktion, uppsömnad av provplagg och verifierats genom avprovningar på provpersoner och på provdocka. Resultatet av studien visar att en medel- till hög ärmkulle behövs till plagg med en förlängd axel för att uppnå en god passform på ärmen och kring ärmhålet. / The purpose of the study is to try to solve fit problems on women’s jersey models with a dropped shoulder. The study is written in collaboration with a large Swedish clothing company and investigates a problem that the company itself has identified. The problem concerns the fit of some of the company's jersey sweaters for ladies, each with a dropped shoulder and a looser fit. The fit problems that the jersey models are having occurred at the shoulder, the armhole and bicep. In research and literature there is no information about fitting problems and how to adjust the construction of jersey garments with a dropped shoulder. At present, the company does not have time to test and develop the jersey models, and the study has therefore focused on trying to solve the problem of the fit for them. To achieve the aim, an experimental method has been used. This has been done through CAD-based pattern construction, sewing test prototypes and verified by fittings on human fitting models and on a dummy. The result of the study shows that a medium to high sleeve crown is needed for clothes with an extended shoulder to achieve good fit on the sleeve and around the armhole.

Denna studie undersöker vilka faktorer i grenen på babyleggings som kan komma att påverkapassformen. En marknadsundersökning visar att ett flertal leggings erhåller passformsproblem i grenen bak. Få studier har gjorts kring barnplagg och passform, därmed jämförs leggings från marknaden mot leggings konstruerade utifrån litteratur för att finna konstruktionsmässiga likheter och skillnader. Genom digitalisering av marknadens fysiska plagg kunde grenkurvorna tydligt jämföras mot litteraturens konstruktioner och tillsammans medavprovningar samt prototypframtagning kunde slutsatser dras. Resultatet visade på stora skillnader där marknadens plagg hade en bättre passform och anknytning till målgruppenskroppsutformning. Dock fanns passformsproblem i form av en nedåtdragande midjelinje bak och dragningar i sidan. Detta kunde knytas till en konstruktion med en djup grenkurva och stor lutning. Även en mindre lutad gren tillsammans med en grund kurva gav oönskadpassform. Resultatet visade även att grensträckan inte är en påverkande faktor, utan formplaceringen i grenkurvan. Studiens resultat applicerades och vidareutvecklade litteraturens konstruktion som mynnade ut i ett grundmönster. Konstruktionen kommer att vara till hjälp för företag som kan använda den i kommunikationen med leverantörer för att minska på prototypframtagningen. / This thesis investigates factors which may influence the fit of the back rise in baby leggings. Market research showed that a majority had issues regarding fit of the back rise. There’s no studies made regarding children´s clothes and fit, therefore leggings from the market has been compared to patterns in literature to find deviations and similarities. With digitalization of the market’s leggings the curvature of the back rise could be compared to those made from literature. Together with fittings and production of prototypes conclusions could be made. The result showed significant deviations where the market’s leggings overall obtained the most pleasing fit and body-to- pattern relationship. Fitting problems was found at the waistline back which created a concave line and pulling was found at the side seams. This was connected to a pattern with a deep curve and significantly tilted back rise. It was found that the curve depth and tilt of the back rise had a vast influence on the garment fit, rather than the length. The conclusions were used to create a basic pattern for baby leggings that companies can utilize in the communication with suppliers to minimize the number of prototypes.

Denna kandidatuppsats utfördes i samarbete med designteam från två svenska konfektionsföretag och riktas mot designteknik inom ämnesområdet textilteknologi. Studien syftar främst till att undersöka likheter och skillnader mellan 3D-avprovning och fysisk avprovning och vilka eventuella fördelar eller risker som 3D-avprovningar i så fall kan medföra i produktutvecklingen. Studien undersöker även, via uppföljningsintervju, designteamens upplevelser av att analysera 3D-avprovningar. Tidigare studier visar att företag i konfektionsbranschen använder 3D-avprovningar som verktyg för att bland annat reducera ledtiden i produktutvecklingen, genom att inte vara bundna till fysiska avprovningar och prototyper. Även om 3D-användning gör tidsbesparing möjlig så har fysisk avprovning en betydande faktor för produktens slutliga komfort och estetik. Respektive designteam, som inte hade erfarenhet av 3D, fick därför analysera och kommentera 5 stycken 3D-simulerade plagg. Dessa kommentarer jämfördes sedan med kommentarer från utförda designteamens fysiska avprovningar. Jämförelsen visade att designteamens önskade justeringar vid 3D-avprovning skulle medföra fler design- och mönsterändringar än vid fysisk avprovning. Detta tyder på att beslut som avgör plaggets passform och design inte bör utföras genom enbart 3D-avprovningar. Inga justeringar utfördes via beslut i 3D, endast fysiska avprovningar har legat som grund för designteamens eventuella vidare produktutveckling av plaggen. Hade designteamen däremot utfört justeringar baserat på 3D-avprovningar, parallellt med ändringar baserat på fysiska avprovningar, hade följande fysiska prototyper troligtvis medfört synliga skillnader i passform och design. Dock visade intervjuer med erfarna användare av 3D, samt uppföljningsintervjuerna med designteamen, att designteam kan använda 3D-teknik som kommunikationsverktyg, i ett tidigt skede i produktutvecklingen. Detta för att verifiera att designteamet har en gemensam uppfattning om plaggets generella utformning. / This bachelor’s thesis is written with a focus on design technology in the field of textile technology and was in a collaboration with design teams from two Swedish clothing companies. The study is primarily aimed to examine similarities and differences between 3D-fitting and physical fitting. The study also investigates what benefits or risks 3D-fitting might result in regarding the garment development. Further, the study examines each of the design team's individual experiences of analyzing 3D-fitting via follow-up interview. Previous studies show that companies in the clothing industry use 3D-fitting as a tool to reduced lead time in garment development, by not being tied to physical fitting and physical prototype. Although 3D use makes time saving possible, physical fitting is a significant factor for the comfort and aesthetics of the final garment. Each design team, having no prior experience in 3D, analyzed and commented on 5 pieces of 3D simulated garments. These comments were then compared with comments from the design teams’ physical fittings. The comparison showed that the design teams desired adjustments in 3D-fitting would result in more design and pattern changes than at the physical fitting. This indicates that decisions that effects deign or fit of the garment should not be performed only by decisions via 3D-fitting. No adjustments where done from decisions in 3D, only the physical fittings have been the basis for the design team's further product development of the garments. However, if the design team had made adjusted based on 3D fittings, in parallel with changes based on physical fittings, the following physical prototypes would likely show visible differences in fit and design. Interviews with experienced users of 3D, and follow-up interviews with the design teams, showed that design teams can use 3D technology as a communication tool, in the early stage of the garment development. This would be to verify that the design team has a common idea of garment's general design and fit.

Studien görs i samarbete med ett företag som jobbar med bl a. barnoveraller. Företaget gör ingen egen mönsterkonstruktion, utan köper denna tjänst av leverantören. Materialet leverantören får av företaget är en måttlista, men när olika leverantörer sytt upp prover åt dem har de fått varierande passform, trots att overallerna hållit samma mått. Författarna har därför jobbat på ett sätt att systematisera måttlistan för att kunna reproducera den aktuella passformen. Detta har gjorts genom att försöka återskapa företagets overall med hjälp av måttlistan och därefter utvärderat vad som skulle göra måttlistan mer tydlig och praktisk för leverantörerna. Utvecklingen av måttlistan har innefattat namn på mått, måttordning, samt skiss och placering av mått. Avgörande faktorer för passformen på barnoverallen har visat sig vara luvan, måttet axel till gren, midjeresår, knävidd och stussens position. En slutlig måttlista har tagits fram som ett förslag på ett sätt för företag utan egen mönsterkonstruktion att systematisera passformen. / The study is being conducted in collaboration with a company that works with, among other things, children's overalls. The company does not make its own pattern design, but buys this service from the supplier. The material the supplier receives from the company is a measurement chart. However when different suppliers have sewn samples for them, they have been of varying fit, despite the fact that the overalls have kept the same dimensions. The authors have therefore worked to systematize the measurement chart in order to be able to reproduce the current fit. This has been done by trying to recreate the company's overalls using the measurement chart and then evaluating what would make the measurement chart clearer and more practical for the suppliers. The development of the measurement chart has included names of measurements, measurement order, and sketch and placement of measurements. Key factors for the fit of the children's overalls have proven to be the hood, shoulder to crotch, waist elastic, knee width and the placement of the seat. A final measurement chart has been developed as a proposal to help companies who prefer full package production.

In this master thesis work we design and analyze a data driven suit jacket fit recommendation system which aim to guide shoppers in the process of assessing garment fit over the web. The system is divided into two stages. In the first stage we analyze labelled customer data, train supervised learning models as to be able to predict optimal suit jacket dimensions of unseen shoppers and determine appropriate models for each suit jacket dimension. In stage two the recommendation system uses the results from stage one and sorts a garment collection from best fit to least fit. The sorted collection is what the fit recommendation system is to return. In this thesis work we propose a particular design of stage two that aim to reduce the complexity of the system but at a cost of reduced quality of the results. The trade-offs are identified and weighed against each other. The results in stage one show that simple supervised learning models with linear regression functions suffice when the independent and dependent variables align at particular landmarks on the body. If style preferences are also to be incorporated into the supervised learning models, non-linear regression functions should be considered as to account for increased complexity. The results in stage two show that the complexity of the recommendation system can be made independent from the complexity of how fit is assessed. And as technology is enabling for more advanced ways of assessing garment fit, such as 3D body scanning techniques, the proposed design of reducing the complexity of the recommendation system enables for highly complex techniques to be utilized without affecting the responsiveness of the system in run-time. / I detta masterexamensarbete designar och analyserar vi ett datadrivet rekommendationssystem för kavajer med mål att vägleda nät-handlare i deras process i att bedöma passform över internet. Systemet är uppdelat i två steg. I det första steget analyserar vi märkt data och tränar modeller i att lära sig att framställa prognoser av optimala kavajmått för shoppare som inte systemet har tidigare exponeras för. I steg två tar rekommendationssystemet resultatet ifrån steg ett och sorterar plaggkollektionen från bästa till sämsta passform. Den sorterade kollektionen är vad systemet är tänkt att retunera. I detta arbete föreslåar vi en specifik utformning gällande steg två med mål att reducera komplexiteten av systemet men till en kostnad i noggrannhet vad det gäller resultat. För- och nackdelar identifieras och vägs mot varandra. Resultatet i steg två visar att enkla modeller med linjära regressionsfunktioner räcker när de obereoende och beroende variabler sammanfaller på specifika punkter på kroppen. Om stil-preferenser också vill inkorpereras i dessa modeller bör icke-linjära regressionsfunktioner betraktas för att redogöra för den ökade komplexitet som medföljer. Resultaten i steg två visar att komplexiteten av rekommendationssystemet kan göras obereoende av komplexiteten för hur passform bedöms. Och då teknologin möjliggör för allt mer avancerade sätt att bedöma passform, såsom 3D-scannings tekniker, kan mer komplexa tekniker utnyttjas utan att påverka responstiden för systemet under körtid.

Bakgrunden till denna rapport är att det sportvarumärke jag samarbetat med ville utveckla en modell av längdskidåkningsjacka som fanns i deras sortiment. Undersökningen gällde att identifiera förbättringspunkter på en dam- och herrvariant av denna jacka. Avsikten var att bevara plaggens design och genom förändringar i mönstrens konstruktion förbättra passform och rörelsefrihet, och därigenom plaggets funktion. Genom att konstruera, sy toiler och prova av dessa på provmodeller, har rörelsefrihet och passform kunnat utvärderas. Resultatet visade att viktiga punkter var raglanärmens konstruktion, böjningen av ärmen, kragens form, ärmhålsdjup och placering av skärlinjer. Det blev också tydligt att kombinationen av designerns och konstruktörens kunskaper tidigt i processen är a och o för ett lyckat resultat. En tydlig kommunikation mellan dessa parter kan minska antalet provplagg under produktutvecklingen.Ämnen som också behandlats under arbetet är gradering, produktspecificering och deras betydelse för plagg och produktion. I undersökningen har jag även tittat på möjligheter till ytterligare utveckling av jackornas funktion om designen kan förändras, till exempel genom att flytta skärningar och på så vis ändra modellens utseende.This study was made due to a sports brand wanting me to develop a style of cross country ski jacket that are currently part of their collection. The study contained identifying areas of possible improvement in both a men and women´s jacket. The mission was to keep the design of the jacket and on the same time improve the fit and ease of movement in the garment (and thereby the function). Through analysis of style samples, pattern construction, sewing of proto samples and fittings on models, the fit and ease of movement has been evaluated. The results are that important garment elements are the neck width, scye depth, construction of the raglan sleeve, the pre-bent sleeve and the placement of cut lines. A conclusion is that to reach a functional and nice looking garment, the designer and the pattern constructor need to cooperate in the product development phase. Good communication between these two departments can reduce the number of proto samples that has to be made.Pattern grading, product specifications and their impact on the style and production process are subjects that are also presented and discussed in this report. During the project I have also studied the possibilities of further development through style design changes. / Program: Designteknikerutbildningen

Denna studie undersöker hur ett alternativt graderingssätt baserat på förhållandet mellan midja och stuss kan implementeras för att förbättra passformen på dambyxor. Ett vanligt förekommande passformsproblem är att kvinnor som har en rakare eller kurvigare kroppsform upplever svårigheter med att uppnå god passform i både midja och stuss, vilket leder till att en stor del av befolkningen har svårt att hitta byxor som passar. Studien baseras på data från 3D- skanningar av drygt 1000 testpersoner med stussmått som motsvarar storlek 32–48. För att undersöka passformen för kvinnor med varierande kroppstyper delades testpersonerna in i kategorierna rak, medel, och kurvig baserat på förhållandevärdet för midja och stuss, och målet var att förbättra passformen för personerna i samtliga tre kategorier. Resultatet visade att bara genom att byta till ett förhållandebaserat graderingssätt i ”medelserien” kunde fler av testpersonerna uppnå god passform jämfört med det tidigare måttbaserade graderingssättet. När storlekssystemet sedan utökades med den raka och kurviga serien kunde 90% av testpersonerna i studien uppnå god passform. / This study explores how an alternative way of grading based on the ratio between waist and hip can be implemented to improve the fit on women’s trousers. A common fit issue is that women with curvier or straighter body shapes experience difficulties achieving good fit in both waist and hip, which results in a major part of the population having a hard time finding well-fitting trousers. The study is based on data from 3D-scannings of over 1000 test subject with a hip measurement that equals size 32–48. To evaluate fit for women with varying body shapes, the test subjects were divided into the three categories straight, medium, and curvy based on their hip-to-waist ratio, and the goal was to improve the fit for all three groups. The result shows that by only switching to a ratio-based way of grading in the “medium group”, a bigger portion of the test group could achieve good fit compared to the old measurement-based way of grading. When the size system was then extended with the straight and curvy series, 90% of the test subject could achieve good fit.

One of the greatest challenges facing the clothing industry worldwide, including South Africa is to provide well fitting garments to a broadly defined target population (Ashdown, Loker & Rucker 2007:1; Schofield, Ashdown, Hethorn, LaBat & Salusso 2006:147). Yu (2004:32) further states that from the consumers’ perspective, physical and psychological comfort as well as appearance play an important role in determining a well fitting garment and these are most likely to be shaped by the individual’s personal values. According to Kaiser (1998:290), personal values refer to standards or principles that guide an individual’s actions and thoughts that help to define what is important by guiding one’s choices or preferences of how the garment should fit. Hence garment fit and the subsequent appearance serves as a personal expression, communicating some personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:290) that can be achieved through the fitting of the garment. When female consumers encounter garment fit problems either through body shapes, garment sizing or garment size label communication, an emotional experience may result due to the failure to attain the personal values they are aiming to uphold or achieve. Cognitive appraisal theory of emotions is one of the theories among others that attempts to understand why people experience emotions. Lazarus (2001:55) defines cognitive appraisal theory of emotions as a quick evaluation of a situation with respect to one’s wellbeing. The answers to these evaluations directly cause the emotions experienced by a person. Since clothing can be used to express personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:146), the social standards appraisal dimension which can be one of the evaluative questions in the theory of cognitive appraisal concerning a situation, was the relevant evaluative component which this study focused on. This appraisal dimension evaluates whether the situation, in this case the negative experience of an ill-fitting garment affects what the consumer aspires to achieve socially through garment fit. Numerous studies such as Horwaton and Lee (2010); Pisut and Connell (2007) and Alexander, Connell & Presley (2005) on the garment fit problems from a consumer’s perspective have mostly been conducted in developed countries with limited research focusing on the consumers and their emotional experiences with garment fit. Understanding the factors that contribution to the garment fit problem currently being faced by female consumers in South Africa is an essential step in creating awareness of how this problem affects female consumers emotionally and the influence it has on their purchasing decisions. The purpose of this study is, therefore, to determine the female consumers’ personal values attributed to garment fit and to identify the emotions resulting from the perceptions of garment fit. This study predominantly employed an exploratory qualitative research approach. Data were collected from a purposive and convenient sample of 62 females from the UNISA – Florida Campus and King David High School in Victory Park in Johannesburg, South Africa through a self-administered questionnaire. Data on the demographic profile that included the ethnicity and age of the participants as well as data on the psychographic profile of the participants concerning frequently patronized clothing retailers, garment fit preferences and self-reported body shapes were collected through closed-ended questions. These data were analysed using the quantitative method of descriptive analysis. In addition to the psychographic profile of the most frequently patronized clothing retailer and garment fit preferences, participants were further requested to provide reasons as to why they mostly patronized the clothing retailer they ranked number 1, and to provide a reason for their preferred garment fit option. Content analysis, a qualitative method, was used to analyse the reasons provided by the participants for both these questions. Content analysis was also performed on additional information on body shape and garment sizing as well as data on garment size label communication. Furthermore, the means-end chain approach through the hard laddering exercises was used to explore and determine the female consumers’ personal values and emotions depicted through the perceptions of garment fit. Data from the hard laddering interviews on body shapes and garment sizing were carefully coded and categorized into attributes, consequences and personal values. Data were presented through the hierarchical value maps (HVMs) which were constructed through the software program Mecanalyst V 9.1. The analysis established that attributes such as quality of garments, various garment styles, availability of sizes, and fashionable styles directed female consumers’ most frequented clothing retailers. These attributes seemed to be aligned with their personal values they seek when shopping for garments. The findings also showed that most female consumers in this study preferred semi-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general, a reasonable number of the participants preferred tight-fitting pants (31%), and some participants preferred loose-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general. The specific personal values such as the comfortability of the garment, modesty, cover-up perceived body shape “flaws” and slimming effect which female consumers in this study desire to achieved through clothing also influenced their garment fit preference. With regard to the perceived self-reported body shapes of the participants, the study reflected that the majority of the participants were triangular body shaped. The study further found that female consumers in this study have expectations of how a garment ought to fit their body. Their expectations seem to be shaped by certain personal values such as “confidence”, “freedom” or “look good” which they aspire to achieve through clothing and garment fit. However, due to variations in body shapes, problems of garment sizing they encounter when purchasing ready-to wear garments and the incorrect information communicated on the size labels or the lack thereof, the majority of the female consumers failed to achieve their personal values. As a result mainly negative emotions such as “frustrated”, “sad”, “confused” and “depressed” were expressed by the participants. With regards to the effect of the perceived garment fit on the purchasing decision, the study found that fit of the garment is an important determinant of making a purchase. However, where female consumers in this study showed an interest of purchasing, while aware of some fit problems, the study found that exceptional conditions such as the possibility of altering the garments and design features such as colours that would conceal their perceived “figure flaws, made it easier for them to decide to purchase. The study further highlighted that some participants only purchased their ready-to-wear garment at certain shops where their needs were catered for and only when they had enough time to try-on the garment they intend to purchase instead of relying on the garment sizing and garment size label communication. Where participants indicated they would not purchase a garment with fitting problems, the study found that some female consumers in this study copied the designs of the garments in the clothing retailers and had someone reproduce it for them, whilst a few female consumers refused to purchase a garment whose size label was incorrectly communicated. Lastly the study also revealed that most female consumers thought that body shape, garment sizing and garment size label communication contribute to garment fit problems female consumers are currently facing in South Africa. It is, therefore, recommended that clothing manufacturers consider the various body shapes in their garment charts, know the needs of their target market and also use uniform sizing and size labelling systems that are easily understood by consumers that purchase ready-to-wear garments from retailers in South Africa. / Life & Consumer Sciences / M. Sc. (Consumer Science)

One of the greatest challenges facing the clothing industry worldwide, including South Africa is to provide well fitting garments to a broadly defined target population (Ashdown, Loker & Rucker 2007:1; Schofield, Ashdown, Hethorn, LaBat & Salusso 2006:147). Yu (2004:32) further states that from the consumers’ perspective, physical and psychological comfort as well as appearance play an important role in determining a well fitting garment and these are most likely to be shaped by the individual’s personal values. According to Kaiser (1998:290), personal values refer to standards or principles that guide an individual’s actions and thoughts that help to define what is important by guiding one’s choices or preferences of how the garment should fit. Hence garment fit and the subsequent appearance serves as a personal expression, communicating some personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:290) that can be achieved through the fitting of the garment. When female consumers encounter garment fit problems either through body shapes, garment sizing or garment size label communication, an emotional experience may result due to the failure to attain the personal values they are aiming to uphold or achieve. Cognitive appraisal theory of emotions is one of the theories among others that attempts to understand why people experience emotions. Lazarus (2001:55) defines cognitive appraisal theory of emotions as a quick evaluation of a situation with respect to one’s wellbeing. The answers to these evaluations directly cause the emotions experienced by a person. Since clothing can be used to express personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:146), the social standards appraisal dimension which can be one of the evaluative questions in the theory of cognitive appraisal concerning a situation, was the relevant evaluative component which this study focused on. This appraisal dimension evaluates whether the situation, in this case the negative experience of an ill-fitting garment affects what the consumer aspires to achieve socially through garment fit. Numerous studies such as Horwaton and Lee (2010); Pisut and Connell (2007) and Alexander, Connell & Presley (2005) on the garment fit problems from a consumer’s perspective have mostly been conducted in developed countries with limited research focusing on the consumers and their emotional experiences with garment fit. Understanding the factors that contribution to the garment fit problem currently being faced by female consumers in South Africa is an essential step in creating awareness of how this problem affects female consumers emotionally and the influence it has on their purchasing decisions. The purpose of this study is, therefore, to determine the female consumers’ personal values attributed to garment fit and to identify the emotions resulting from the perceptions of garment fit. This study predominantly employed an exploratory qualitative research approach. Data were collected from a purposive and convenient sample of 62 females from the UNISA – Florida Campus and King David High School in Victory Park in Johannesburg, South Africa through a self-administered questionnaire. Data on the demographic profile that included the ethnicity and age of the participants as well as data on the psychographic profile of the participants concerning frequently patronized clothing retailers, garment fit preferences and self-reported body shapes were collected through closed-ended questions. These data were analysed using the quantitative method of descriptive analysis. In addition to the psychographic profile of the most frequently patronized clothing retailer and garment fit preferences, participants were further requested to provide reasons as to why they mostly patronized the clothing retailer they ranked number 1, and to provide a reason for their preferred garment fit option. Content analysis, a qualitative method, was used to analyse the reasons provided by the participants for both these questions. Content analysis was also performed on additional information on body shape and garment sizing as well as data on garment size label communication. Furthermore, the means-end chain approach through the hard laddering exercises was used to explore and determine the female consumers’ personal values and emotions depicted through the perceptions of garment fit. Data from the hard laddering interviews on body shapes and garment sizing were carefully coded and categorized into attributes, consequences and personal values. Data were presented through the hierarchical value maps (HVMs) which were constructed through the software program Mecanalyst V 9.1. The analysis established that attributes such as quality of garments, various garment styles, availability of sizes, and fashionable styles directed female consumers’ most frequented clothing retailers. These attributes seemed to be aligned with their personal values they seek when shopping for garments. The findings also showed that most female consumers in this study preferred semi-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general, a reasonable number of the participants preferred tight-fitting pants (31%), and some participants preferred loose-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general. The specific personal values such as the comfortability of the garment, modesty, cover-up perceived body shape “flaws” and slimming effect which female consumers in this study desire to achieved through clothing also influenced their garment fit preference. With regard to the perceived self-reported body shapes of the participants, the study reflected that the majority of the participants were triangular body shaped. The study further found that female consumers in this study have expectations of how a garment ought to fit their body. Their expectations seem to be shaped by certain personal values such as “confidence”, “freedom” or “look good” which they aspire to achieve through clothing and garment fit. However, due to variations in body shapes, problems of garment sizing they encounter when purchasing ready-to wear garments and the incorrect information communicated on the size labels or the lack thereof, the majority of the female consumers failed to achieve their personal values. As a result mainly negative emotions such as “frustrated”, “sad”, “confused” and “depressed” were expressed by the participants. With regards to the effect of the perceived garment fit on the purchasing decision, the study found that fit of the garment is an important determinant of making a purchase. However, where female consumers in this study showed an interest of purchasing, while aware of some fit problems, the study found that exceptional conditions such as the possibility of altering the garments and design features such as colours that would conceal their perceived “figure flaws, made it easier for them to decide to purchase. The study further highlighted that some participants only purchased their ready-to-wear garment at certain shops where their needs were catered for and only when they had enough time to try-on the garment they intend to purchase instead of relying on the garment sizing and garment size label communication. Where participants indicated they would not purchase a garment with fitting problems, the study found that some female consumers in this study copied the designs of the garments in the clothing retailers and had someone reproduce it for them, whilst a few female consumers refused to purchase a garment whose size label was incorrectly communicated. Lastly the study also revealed that most female consumers thought that body shape, garment sizing and garment size label communication contribute to garment fit problems female consumers are currently facing in South Africa. It is, therefore, recommended that clothing manufacturers consider the various body shapes in their garment charts, know the needs of their target market and also use uniform sizing and size labelling systems that are easily understood by consumers that purchase ready-to-wear garments from retailers in South Africa. / Life and Consumer Sciences / M. Sc. (Consumer Science)