In the apparel industry, pattern making and alterations are expensive and time consuming, because they require iterative fitting and adjustment to develop garment patterns that fit their target consumers. The goal of this paper is to accelerate the pattern making process for jeans customization, which incorporates proper ease distribution at crotch curve in a 3D jeans design and pattern alteration by developing ease distribution models. In this research, four female jeans with different crotch ease allowances were developed. The patterns were drafted using flat patterning methods. The fitting process was conducted and evaluated according to standard fitting criteria. Furthermore, the size 8 mannequin, and then the jeans with the mannequin inside were scanned by the Kinect Body Image System. The crotch curves of the mannequin and the jeans were obtained, and were then extracted to the Accumark CAD system where the radial distance eases of the crotch curves were defined and measured. Correlation analysis between the distance ease and crotch ease allowance was conducted, and regression analysis was used to develop ease distribution models. The applications of the regression models in 3D jeans design and jeans pattern alterations were discussed. This research enhances the understanding of the ease distribution at the jeans crotch area. The results of this research provide essential ease distribution information for the jeans pattern alterations and jeans construction on a 3D model. / text

Denna studie undersöker vilka faktorer i grenen på babyleggings som kan komma att påverkapassformen. En marknadsundersökning visar att ett flertal leggings erhåller passformsproblem i grenen bak. Få studier har gjorts kring barnplagg och passform, därmed jämförs leggings från marknaden mot leggings konstruerade utifrån litteratur för att finna konstruktionsmässiga likheter och skillnader. Genom digitalisering av marknadens fysiska plagg kunde grenkurvorna tydligt jämföras mot litteraturens konstruktioner och tillsammans medavprovningar samt prototypframtagning kunde slutsatser dras. Resultatet visade på stora skillnader där marknadens plagg hade en bättre passform och anknytning till målgruppenskroppsutformning. Dock fanns passformsproblem i form av en nedåtdragande midjelinje bak och dragningar i sidan. Detta kunde knytas till en konstruktion med en djup grenkurva och stor lutning. Även en mindre lutad gren tillsammans med en grund kurva gav oönskadpassform. Resultatet visade även att grensträckan inte är en påverkande faktor, utan formplaceringen i grenkurvan. Studiens resultat applicerades och vidareutvecklade litteraturens konstruktion som mynnade ut i ett grundmönster. Konstruktionen kommer att vara till hjälp för företag som kan använda den i kommunikationen med leverantörer för att minska på prototypframtagningen. / This thesis investigates factors which may influence the fit of the back rise in baby leggings. Market research showed that a majority had issues regarding fit of the back rise. There’s no studies made regarding children´s clothes and fit, therefore leggings from the market has been compared to patterns in literature to find deviations and similarities. With digitalization of the market’s leggings the curvature of the back rise could be compared to those made from literature. Together with fittings and production of prototypes conclusions could be made. The result showed significant deviations where the market’s leggings overall obtained the most pleasing fit and body-to- pattern relationship. Fitting problems was found at the waistline back which created a concave line and pulling was found at the side seams. This was connected to a pattern with a deep curve and significantly tilted back rise. It was found that the curve depth and tilt of the back rise had a vast influence on the garment fit, rather than the length. The conclusions were used to create a basic pattern for baby leggings that companies can utilize in the communication with suppliers to minimize the number of prototypes.