John’s Pass is a stable mixed-energy inlet located on a microtidal coast in Pinellas County, Florida. It is hydraulically connected to the northern portion of Boca Ciega Bay. Morphological analysis using a time-series of aerial photographs indicated that anthropogenic activities have influenced the evolution of the tidal deltas and adjacent shorelines at John’s Pass. Previous studies have documented the channel dimensions at the location of the existing bridge and calculated the tidal prism. A chronological analysis of these data yielded an increasing trend in the cross-sectional area at John’s Pass from 1873 to 2001. Anthropogenic activities occurring in Boca Ciega Bay impacting this trend begin in the 1920’s when Indian Pass, approximately 7 km north of John’s Pass, was artificially closed. Other significant events causing an increase or decrease in the crosssectional area at John’s Pass include dredging and filling in the bay, channel dredging at John’s Pass, and jetty construction. More recent data collected from a simultaneous current meter deployment at John’s Pass and Blind Pass were used to calculate the bay area serviced by each inlet resulting in an area serviced by John’s Pass being 1.8x104 km2 and 0.33x104 km2 serviced by Blind Pass. In comparison, Blind Pass captures 14 percent of the tidal prism that John’s Pass captures and John’s Pass captures 87 percent of the bay prism while Blind Pass captures 13 percent. Using the discharge equation and assuming the channel area was largely constant the tidal prism at John’s Pass was 1.07x107 m3 during the twenty-one day deployment. Based on a historical analysis of the tidal prism this study is within 40 percent of the tidal prism calculated by Mehta (1976) and Becker and Ross (2001) and within 20 percent of the tidal prism calculated by Jarrett (1976) and Davis and Gibeaut (1990). An analysis of the current meter time-series indicated that flood velocities in the channel were influenced by a frontal system passing through the study area during the deployment increasing the amount of potential sediment being deposited in the channel thalweg. The maximum ebb and flood-tidal velocities during the deployment were 143 cm/s and 115 cm/s, respectively. Morphological analysis of cross-sectional data from 1995 to 2004 indicated that sediment tends to accumulate along the northern portion of the channel. The channel thalweg tends to accumulate more sediment east of the bridge where wave energy is lower and currents are not as strong. An average net accumulation of 0.5 m per year was estimated along all seven cross-sections. Given the length and width of the surveyed channel, 610 m by approximately 150 m, the sediment flux through the inlet is approximately 45,800 m3 /yr along the channel thalweg. A small amount of sediment accumulation has occurred southwest of the bridge in response to channelized flood flows along the newly constructed jetty. An annual sediment budget was estimated for the John’s Pass inlet system using the beach profiles and inlet bathymetry data between 2000 and 2001. Overall, the inlet system has accumulated more sediment than it has lost during this time period.

Tropical Storm Debby affected the Gulf coast of Florida in late June, 2012. The storm's southerly approach temporarily reversed the annual net southward longshore sediment transport. The energetic conditions associated with Tropical Storm Debby can be seen in the wind, wave and tidal measurements taken from both onshore and offshore weather stations around the dual tidal inlets system of John's Pass and Blind Pass, approximately 25 kilometers north of the mouth of Tampa Bay. The energetic and persistent southerly forcing, in addition to higher storm induced water levels and wave heights, resulted in atypical beach erosion and sediment deposition on the ebb tidal deltas of the two inlets and the surrounding beaches. The John's Pass ebb delta gained 60,000 cubic meters of sediment and the Blind Pass ebb delta gained 9,000 cubic meters as a result of the storm. Shoreline position, beach profile and offshore bathymetric surveys conducted before and after Tropical Storm Debby illustrate the changes in the coastal morphology such as the development of an offshore bar south of Blind Pass and erosion of the dry beach north and south of John's Pass. The Coastal Modeling System (CMS) was used to simulate wave and tide-driven current fields during the passage of the storm. The modeled wave field qualitatively illustrated the shadowing effect of the Tampa Bay ebb delta in reducing the southerly approaching storm wave energy arriving at the study area during the storm. The tidal flow patterns through the inlets and over the ebb tidal deltas were considerably different during the storm, as compared to normal tidal cycles.

This thesis explores the geomorphic implications of large woody debris (LWD) residing in the backshore of beach-dune systems along the northeastern coasts of Haida Gwaii (Queen Charlotte Islands), British Columbia, Canada. Detailed topographic surveys were employed to quantify seasonal mass balance of the beach-dune systems along two distinctly different coastlines. Erosion and accretion potential models were applied to characterize sediment transport conditions. Holman’s (1986) R2% wave runup model was superimposed on total water levels, to model wave runup exceedence of the beach-dune junction elevation (6.5 m aCD). Modelled ‘erosion potential’ hours were demonstrated to correspond with observed erosion including removal of the LWD zone, resulting in decreased mass balance. Similarly, Fryberger and Dean’s (1979) Drift Potential model was used to model accretion potential hours. Modelled accretion potential hours were also able to effectively describe conditions when actual accretion occurred. The presence of LWD in the backshore offered two functions to the above processes: it acted effectively as an ‘accretion anchor’, promoting increased mass balance and rebuilding of the incipient foredune; and, it offered a mass of sediment fronting the foredune to protect the beach-dune system from storm wave attack and subsequent erosion.

LUNA, Marco César Monteiro de Morais. Simulações de campos de dunas sob a influência do crescimento de vegetação e da exposição do nível de água do terreno. 2010. 129 f. Tese (Doutorado em Física) - Programa de Pós-Graduação em Física, Departamento de Física, Centro de Ciências, Universidade Federal do Ceará, Fortaleza, 2010. / Submitted by Edvander Pires (edvanderpires@gmail.com) on 2015-10-16T20:08:55Z No. of bitstreams: 1 2010_tese_mcmmluna.pdf: 8181861 bytes, checksum: f3021b931d09631c9e18dcec1d96de5a (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Edvander Pires(edvanderpires@gmail.com) on 2015-10-21T20:36:54Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 2010_tese_mcmmluna.pdf: 8181861 bytes, checksum: f3021b931d09631c9e18dcec1d96de5a (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2015-10-21T20:36:54Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 2010_tese_mcmmluna.pdf: 8181861 bytes, checksum: f3021b931d09631c9e18dcec1d96de5a (MD5) Previous issue date: 2010 / In this work we study the genesis of coastal dune fields using the DUNE model developed by Sauermann et al. (2001) and Kroy et al. (2002), and later perfected by Schwämmle and Herrmann (2004). The model was developed to calculate the transport of grains by saltation and the formation of sand dunes, and then it takes account the growth of vegetation (Durán and Herrmann, 2006a). Initially we investigate the genesis and the early stages of development of coastal dune fields in the presence of vegetation growth. The model is applied to calculate the evolution of sand transported in the same direction of the wind into a land where there is vegetation growth. In previous work, the model reproduced the fixation of sand grains and the stabilization of dunes. Consequently, the barchans dunes in the presence of plants can be transformed into parabolic dunes (Durán et al., 2006a). Here, we seek the understanding of competition between the sand transport and vegetation growth in the development of transverse dunes under the influence of plant growth, when we find a maximum height for transverse dunes under the influence of vegetation. Then we conduct a detailed study of the development of dune fields taking into account changes in the relevant parameters: the width of the beach, availability of sand sediment, wind intensity, the vegetation growth rate and the maximum height reached by the plants. Different morphologies are obtained for the coastal dune fields which depend crucially on the characteristic vegetation growth rate and the wind shear velocity, which can reproduce patterns found in actual fields. After we investigate, the genesis and development of coastal dune fields in the presence of a dynamic water level. In other to do it we complement this model with a dynamic water surface. Here we try to obtain and understand the influence of a exposed water surface over the ground in the development and morphology of the dunes. In this way, we also try a quantitative understanding of the dynamics of coastal dune fields as a function of local climatic conditions, since the dynamics of the water level is linked to rainfall (Jimenez et al., 1999, Levin et al., 2009). The results show that for a constant wind shear velocity u∗ the main effect of the presence of water is to produce the dunes in the field more regular in their shape and size. As the shift Aw in the water level becomes larger, the dunes undergo a transition from barchans dunes to chains of barchans dunes, and then to transverse dunes, reducing the maximum height reached by the dunes in the field. The water spreads the sand across the field and reduces the existence of areas which are free of the sand presence, preventing the formation of dunes and leading to the formation of a sandy bed with a smooth surface. When we increase the time which the water level tew is above the ground, the dunes in the field pattern are more regular in shape and height in the same way as when we increase the shift in water level. For a unidirectional wind sinusoidally oscillating out of phase with respect to fluctuation of water level, in opposition to the constant wind, as Aw becomes larger, higher are the dunes in the field, and they undergo a transition from chains of barchans dunes to isolated barchans dunes. In this case, the sand is retained in the dunes and we do not observe the formation of a sand bed as Aw grows. In the case of a sinusoidal wind in phase with the oscillation of the water level, the dunes appear only for small shifts in the water level. These results agree with the observations of real sand dune fields (Kocurek et al., 1992), reproducing the constructive and destructive phases which alternate in dune fields under the influence of an oscillating water level due to seasonal climatic changes. In the simulations we reproduce some morphological patterns of sand dunes that are found in the Lençóis Maranhenses sand dune field. Comparison between simulation results and satellite images of this region is quite satisfactory from a qualitative point of view and from a quantitative point of view. / Neste trabalho estudamos a gênese de campos de dunas costeiras através do modelo DUNE desenvolvido por Sauermann et al. (2001) e Kroy et al. (2002), e posteriormente aprimorado por Schwämmle e Herrmann (2004). O modelo DUNE foi desenvolvido para calcular o transporte de grãos por saltação e para a formação de dunas de areia. Depois, passou a levar em consideração também o crescimento da vegetação (Durán e Herrmann, 2006a). Inicialmente investigamos a gênese e os primeiros estágios de desenvolvimento de campos costeiros de dunas na presença do crescimento da vegetação. O modelo é aplicado para calcular a evolução da areia transportada na mesma direção do vento para dentro de um terreno onde ocorre o crescimento da vegetação. Antes, o modelo reproduziu a fixação da areia e consequente estabilização de dunas barcanas na presença das plantas, resultando na formação de dunas parabólicas (Durán et al., 2006a). Aqui, buscamos o entendimento dessa competição entre o transporte de areia e o crescimento da vegetação no desenvolvimento de dunas transversais na presença do crescimento de plantas, quando encontramos uma altura máxima para a duna transversal sob a influência da vegetação. Em seguida realizamos um estudo detalhado do desenvolvimento de campos de dunas levando em consideração variações nos parâmetros relevantes: largura da praia, disponibilidade de sedimentos, intensidade do vento, a velocidade de crescimento da vegetação e a altura máxima atingida pelas plantas. Diferentes morfologias foram obtidas para os campos de duna costeiras que dependem fundamentalmente da taxa de crescimento característica da vegetação e da velocidade de cisalhamento do vento, e que conseguem reproduzir padrões encontrados em campos reais. Depois investigamos no trabalho, a gênese e o desenvolvimento de campos de dunas costeiros na presença de um nível de água dinâmico. Para isso complementamos o modelo com uma superfície de água dinâmica. Buscamos aqui, obter e compreender a influência de uma superfície de água exposta no terreno no desenvolvimento e na morfologia das dunas. De maneira que, buscamos também um entendimento quantitativo da dinâmica de campos de dunas costeiros como função das condições climáticas locais, já que a dinâmica do nível de água está ligada ao regime de chuvas (Jimenez et al., 1999; Levin et al., 2009). Os resultados mostram que, para ventos com velocidade de cisalhamento u∗ constante, o principal efeito da presença da água é tornar as dunas no campo mais regulares em sua forma e tamanho. À medida que o deslocamento no nível de água Aw se torna maior, as dunas sofrem uma transição, passando de barcanas para cadeias de dunas barcanóides e depois para dunas transversais, reduzindo as alturas máximas atingidas pelas dunas. A água espalha a areia por todo campo e diminui a existência de áreas livres da presença de areia, impedindo a formação de dunas e levando à formação de um leito arenoso de relevo suave. Quando fixamos a altura máxima atingida pelo nível de água e aumentamos o seu tempo de exposição tew acima do chão, as dunas no campo apresentam padrão mais regular na forma e na altura da mesma maneira que acontece quando cresce o deslocamento no nível de água. Para um vento unidirecional oscilando senoidalmente fora de fase em relação a oscilação do nível de água, de maneira contrário ao vento constante, à medida que Aw se torna maior, maiores são as dunas no campo, e as dunas passam de cadeias de dunas barcanóides para dunas barcanas isoladas. Nesse caso, a areia fica retida nas dunas e não temos a formação de um leito de areia à medida que Aw cresce. Já no caso de um vento senoidal em fase com a oscilação do nível de água as dunas somente surgem para pequenas variações no nível de água. Esses resultados concordam com observações realizadas em campos reais por Kocurek et al. (1992), reproduzindo as fase destrutivas e construtivas que se alternam em campos de dunas sob a influência de um nível de água oscilante, devido às mudanças climáticas sazonais. Conseguimos com o modelo reproduzir alguns padrões de morfológicos de dunas que são encontrados nos Lençóis Maranhenses. A comparação dos resultados obtidos nas simulações com as imagens de satélite da região é bastante satisfatória, tanto do ponto de vista qualitativo, quanto do ponto de vista quantitativo.

Les modalités d’évolution d’une côte rocheuse granitique en contexte de marge passive restent encore mal connues à ce jour, du fait de leur évolution lente. L’objectif de l’étude du littoral granitique du sud-Finistère vise à mieux comprendre son développement et sa dynamique érosive sur une échelle de temps variant entre le Cénozoïque et le Quaternaire. Une cartographie Terre-Mer de détail a permis d’identifier plusieurs objets morphologiques : une rasa (≈15m), une terrasse marine (≈7m), une plateforme littorale (0-5m) et une plateforme rocheuse sous-marine (-70 à 0m). Ces objets témoignent de la variabilité spatiale et temporelle des processus tectoniques vs. eustatiques sur le littoral breton. L’architecture 3D de la zone révèle une plateforme rocheuse sous-marine très fracturée avec de grands accidents délimitant plusieurs micro-blocs et fonctionnant au Cénozoïque (compression pyrénéenne éocène, puis ouverture Atlantique Oligocène et extension au post-Oligocène avec l’ouverture continentale des grabens du Rhin). La Pointe SO de la zone d’étude se stabilise durant le tardi-Cénozoïque, révélant que les figures d’érosion aériennes (rasa et terrasse marine) ont été générées lors de plusieurs paléo-haut niveau marin. Les larges surfaces des objets terrestres s’expliquent par l’action combinée des purges eustatiques sur un matériel granitique très altéré. Il a été démontré que la morphologie de la zone littorale granitique a été façonnée a minima par deux épisodes de purges eustatiques durant le MIS 5 (120ka) et l’Holocène (10ka). Les taux d'érosions verticaux obtenus pour la terrasse marine et la plateforme littorale varient entre 3.35 ±0.32 m.Ma-1 et 6.20 ± 0.80 m.Ma-1. / The granitic rocky coast evolution, in passive margin context, is still not completely understood as its evolution is lower. The aim of the South-Finistère shore zone studying is to better understand its development and erosive dynamic on a time scale ranging between Cenozoic and Quaternary. A detailed onshore/offshore mapping has been realized, highlighting several erosional features. From land seaward, a rasa (≈15m-high), a marine terrace (≈7m-high), a shore platform (0-5 m-high) and a rocky marine platform (-70 à 0m) have been emphasized. These objects evidence temporal variations in the response of the tectonic or eustatic processes. The 3D architecture of rocky marine platform demonstrates a highly fractured domain with major faults bounding several micro-blocks, reactivated between the Eocene (Pyrenean compression) and Late / Post-Oligocene (Rhine continental transform zone activation). The quantitative geomorphology applied on the western part of studying zone reveals none late-Cenozoic uplift. Consequently, the rasa and marine terrace have been shaped during a high paleo-sea level. The granitic surface’s erosion produces horizontal joint planes, as a result of weathering processes. The combination between planar and horizontal granitic jointing and the marine eustatic purge explains the large width of granitic eroded surfaces.Two eustatic purges (MIS 5 and Holocene) have been shaped the granitic shore zone and the vertical erosion, rate obtained for various lateritic horizon in onshore and shore domains, is ranging between 3.35 ±0.32 m.Ma-1 and 6.20 ± 0.80 m.Ma-1.

como uma tarefa importante das ciências relacionadas aos ambientes litorâneos. É importante progredir com os estudos, por meio da revisão e reinterpretação dos dados já existentes e da proposição de dados adicionais que elucidem as divergências que permeiam o delineamento das curvas de variação do nível do mar na costa brasileira e melhorem o diagnostico dos paleoníveis. A importância desses pesquisas reside no fato de que as variações contribuíram diretamente na formação e evolução das áreas costeiras. O município de Ubatuba possui grande potencial para a ocorrência de indicadores biológicos e geomorfológicos de paleoníveis marinhos, ainda pouco estudados em todo o litoral paulista. Estudos prévios que encontraram paleoindicadores biológicos de variações holocênicas do NM em alguns costões rochosos de Ubatuba, são um bom exemplo desse potencial. No presente trabalho avaliou-se 3 costões no município citado, quanto a suas características geomorfológicas e geológicas, e suas potencialidades para a ocorrência de indicadores de variação do NM. Os resultados apresentados permitem concluir que esses costões apresentam características peculiares que permitem o desenvolvimento e preservação de registros de NM. Pode-se inferir que as bandas de ouriços pormenorizadas no presente estudo definem níveis marinhos pretéritos, bem como os níveis de plataformas de abrasão marinha inativas aqui caracterizados. Tanto as plataforma quanto a presença das bandas sugerem pelo menos três estabilizações de NM mais alto que o atual, o que corrobora a literatura. Para estabelecer correlações entre as áreas estudas e delas com outras áreas do município, serão necessários estudos futuros, que contemplem ainda a datação de amostras de restos biogênicos, para que se possa relacionar os dados espaciais aqui apresentados com referencias temporais. / Responding to issues related to marine paleolevels reiterated increasingly as an important task of the science related to coastal environments. It is important to make progress with the studies through the review and reinterpretation of existing data and additional data proposition elucidating the differences that permeate the design of the variation curves sea level on the Brazilian coast and improve the diagnosis of paleolevels. The importance of these studies lies in the fact that changes have contributed directly to the formation and evolution of coastal areas. The city of Ubatuba has great potential for the occurrence of biological and geomorphological indicators of marine paleolevels, still understudied throughout the São Paulo coast. Previous studies have found that biological paleoindicadores of Holocene variations of sea level in some rocky shores of Ubatuba, are a good examples of this potential. In the present study we evaluated three rocky shores in Ubatuba as its geomorphological and geological features, and its potential for the occurrence of NM variation indicators. The results allow us to conclude that these shores have peculiar characteristics that enable the development and preservation of NM records. It can be inferred that the hedgehogs bands detailed in this study define tenses sea levels as well as levels of inactive marine abrasion platforms here characterized. Both the platform and the presence of the bands suggest at least three higher NM stabilizations that the current, which corroborates the literature. To establish correlations between them and studied areas with other areas of the municipality will require further study, still contemplating the dating of samples of biogenic remains, so that you can relate to the spatial data presented herein with temporal references.

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento CientÃfico e TecnolÃgico / Neste trabalho estudamos a gÃnese de campos de dunas costeiras atravÃs do modelo DUNE desenvolvido por Sauermann et al. (2001) e Kroy et al. (2002), e posteriormente aprimorado por SchwÃmmle e Herrmann (2004). O modelo DUNE foi desenvolvido para calcular o transporte de grÃos por saltaÃÃo e para a formaÃÃo de dunas de areia. Depois, passou a levar em consideraÃÃo tambÃm o crescimento da vegetaÃÃo (DurÃn e Herrmann, 2006a). Inicialmente investigamos a gÃnese e os primeiros estÃgios de desenvolvimento de campos costeiros de dunas na presenÃa do crescimento da vegetaÃÃo. O modelo à aplicado para calcular a evoluÃÃo da areia transportada na mesma direÃÃo do vento para dentro de um terreno onde ocorre o crescimento da vegetaÃÃo. Antes, o modelo reproduziu a fixaÃÃo da areia e consequente estabilizaÃÃo de dunas barcanas na presenÃa das plantas, resultando na formaÃÃo de dunas parabÃlicas (DurÃn et al., 2006a). Aqui, buscamos o entendimento dessa competiÃÃo entre o transporte de areia e o crescimento da vegetaÃÃo no desenvolvimento de dunas transversais na presenÃa do crescimento de plantas, quando encontramos uma altura mÃxima para a duna transversal sob a influÃncia da vegetaÃÃo. Em seguida realizamos um estudo detalhado do desenvolvimento de campos de dunas levando em consideraÃÃo variaÃÃes nos parÃmetros relevantes: largura da praia, disponibilidade de sedimentos, intensidade do vento, a velocidade de crescimento da vegetaÃÃo e a altura mÃxima atingida pelas plantas. Diferentes morfologias foram obtidas para os campos de duna costeiras que dependem fundamentalmente da taxa de crescimento caracterÃstica da vegetaÃÃo e da velocidade de cisalhamento do vento, e que conseguem reproduzir padrÃes encontrados em campos reais. Depois investigamos no trabalho, a gÃnese e o desenvolvimento de campos de dunas costeiros na presenÃa de um nÃvel de Ãgua dinÃmico. Para isso complementamos o modelo com uma superfÃcie de Ãgua dinÃmica. Buscamos aqui, obter e compreender a influÃncia de uma superfÃcie de Ãgua exposta no terreno no desenvolvimento e na morfologia das dunas. De maneira que, buscamos tambÃm um entendimento quantitativo da dinÃmica de campos de dunas costeiros como funÃÃo das condiÃÃes climÃticas locais, jà que a dinÃmica do nÃvel de Ãgua està ligada ao regime de chuvas (Jimenez et al., 1999; Levin et al., 2009). Os resultados mostram que, para ventos com velocidade de cisalhamento u∗ constante, o principal efeito da presenÃa da Ãgua à tornar as dunas no campo mais regulares em sua forma e tamanho. à medida que o deslocamento no nÃvel de Ãgua Aw se torna maior, as dunas sofrem uma transiÃÃo, passando de barcanas para cadeias de dunas barcanÃides e depois para dunas transversais, reduzindo as alturas mÃximas atingidas pelas dunas. A Ãgua espalha a areia por todo campo e diminui a existÃncia de Ãreas livres da presenÃa de areia, impedindo a formaÃÃo de dunas e levando à formaÃÃo de um leito arenoso de relevo suave. Quando fixamos a altura mÃxima atingida pelo nÃvel de Ãgua e aumentamos o seu tempo de exposiÃÃo tew acima do chÃo, as dunas no campo apresentam padrÃo mais regular na forma e na altura da mesma maneira que acontece quando cresce o deslocamento no nÃvel de Ãgua. Para um vento unidirecional oscilando senoidalmente fora de fase em relaÃÃo a oscilaÃÃo do nÃvel de Ãgua, de maneira contrÃrio ao vento constante, à medida que Aw se torna maior, maiores sÃo as dunas no campo, e as dunas passam de cadeias de dunas barcanÃides para dunas barcanas isoladas. Nesse caso, a areia fica retida nas dunas e nÃo temos a formaÃÃo de um leito de areia à medida que Aw cresce. Jà no caso de um vento senoidal em fase com a oscilaÃÃo do nÃvel de Ãgua as dunas somente surgem para pequenas variaÃÃes no nÃvel de Ãgua. Esses resultados concordam com observaÃÃes realizadas em campos reais por Kocurek et al. (1992), reproduzindo as fase destrutivas e construtivas que se alternam em campos de dunas sob a influÃncia de um nÃvel de Ãgua oscilante, devido Ãs mudanÃas climÃticas sazonais. Conseguimos com o modelo reproduzir alguns padrÃes de morfolÃgicos de dunas que sÃo encontrados nos LenÃÃis Maranhenses. A comparaÃÃo dos resultados obtidos nas simulaÃÃes com as imagens de satÃlite da regiÃo à bastante satisfatÃria, tanto do ponto de vista qualitativo, quanto do ponto de vista quantitativo. / In this work we study the genesis of coastal dune fields using the DUNE model developed by Sauermann et al. (2001) and Kroy et al. (2002), and later perfected by SchwÃmmle and Herrmann (2004). The model was developed to calculate the transport of grains by saltation and the formation of sand dunes, and then it takes account the growth of vegetation (DurÃn and Herrmann, 2006a). Initially we investigate the genesis and the early stages of development of coastal dune fields in the presence of vegetation growth. The model is applied to calculate the evolution of sand transported in the same direction of the wind into a land where there is vegetation growth. In previous work, the model reproduced the fixation of sand grains and the stabilization of dunes. Consequently, the barchans dunes in the presence of plants can be transformed into parabolic dunes (DurÃn et al., 2006a). Here, we seek the understanding of competition between the sand transport and vegetation growth in the development of transverse dunes under the influence of plant growth, when we find a maximum height for transverse dunes under the influence of vegetation. Then we conduct a detailed study of the development of dune fields taking into account changes in the relevant parameters: the width of the beach, availability of sand sediment, wind intensity, the vegetation growth rate and the maximum height reached by the plants. Different morphologies are obtained for the coastal dune fields which depend crucially on the characteristic vegetation growth rate and the wind shear velocity, which can reproduce patterns found in actual fields. After we investigate, the genesis and development of coastal dune fields in the presence of a dynamic water level. In other to do it we complement this model with a dynamic water surface. Here we try to obtain and understand the influence of a exposed water surface over the ground in the development and morphology of the dunes. In this way, we also try a quantitative understanding of the dynamics of coastal dune fields as a function of local climatic conditions, since the dynamics of the water level is linked to rainfall (Jimenez et al., 1999, Levin et al., 2009). The results show that for a constant wind shear velocity u∗ the main effect of the presence of water is to produce the dunes in the field more regular in their shape and size. As the shift Aw in the water level becomes larger, the dunes undergo a transition from barchans dunes to chains of barchans dunes, and then to transverse dunes, reducing the maximum height reached by the dunes in the field. The water spreads the sand across the field and reduces the existence of areas which are free of the sand presence, preventing the formation of dunes and leading to the formation of a sandy bed with a smooth surface. When we increase the time which the water level tew is above the ground, the dunes in the field pattern are more regular in shape and height in the same way as when we increase the shift in water level. For a unidirectional wind sinusoidally oscillating out of phase with respect to fluctuation of water level, in opposition to the constant wind, as Aw becomes larger, higher are the dunes in the field, and they undergo a transition from chains of barchans dunes to isolated barchans dunes. In this case, the sand is retained in the dunes and we do not observe the formation of a sand bed as Aw grows. In the case of a sinusoidal wind in phase with the oscillation of the water level, the dunes appear only for small shifts in the water level. These results agree with the observations of real sand dune fields (Kocurek et al., 1992), reproducing the constructive and destructive phases which alternate in dune fields under the influence of an oscillating water level due to seasonal climatic changes. In the simulations we reproduce some morphological patterns of sand dunes that are found in the LenÃÃis Maranhenses sand dune field. Comparison between simulation results and satellite images of this region is quite satisfactory from a qualitative point of view and from a quantitative point of view.

As formas naturais do relevo costeiro são resultantes da atuação e interação de processos continentais, oceânicos e atmosféricos. Dentre as diversas feições costeiras destacam-se as falésias e, nesta tese, serão discutidas estas feições esculpidas na Formação Barreiras, sendo esta uma vasta área sedimentar que se estende desde o estado do Rio de Janeiro até o estado do Amapá. Há um grande conjunto de elementos em interação atuando na morfogênese e evolução das falésias e estes são considerados dentro de uma perspectiva de análise sistêmica, sendo estes agrupados e caracterizados como elementos de um Sistema Natural, considerando-se o sistema como um conjunto formado por materiais, processos e formas, tratados, nesta tese, como um sistema geomórfico dinâmico com entrada (inputs) e saída (outputs) de energia e materiais identificáveis, dirigidos e controlados pelas condições ambientais, no qual inúmeros tipos de processos ocorrem simultaneamente. Estudos teóricos e de campo foram realizados em Beberibe-CE, Mucuri-BA e Tibau do Sul-RN e possibilitaram a observação e identificação de características e indícios da morfogênese e evolução das falésias, permitindo a proposição de uma classificação, dentro de um quadro regional da Formação Barreiras, destas feições em: 1) falésia precedida por praia; 2) falésia não precedida por praia. / Natural forms of coastal relief are the result of the action and interaction of continental, oceanic and atmospheric processes. Among various coastal features, cliffs stand out and in this thesis, we discuss these features carved into Formação Barreiras, which is a vast sedimentary area stretching from Rio de Janeiro to Amapá State. There is a large set of elements in interaction taking part in the morphogenesis and in the evolution of cliffs which are considered here within the perspective of a systemic analysis. These elements are classified and characterized as elements of a \"Natural System\", considered system as a whole formed by materials, processes and forms, treated, in this thesis, as a dynamic geomorphic system with inputs and outputs of strenght and materials identifiable, directed and controlled by environmental conditions, in which numberless types of material processes occur simultaneously. Theoretical and field studies performed in Beberibe-CE, Mucuri-BA and Tibau do Sul-RN, allowed us to observe and identify characteristics and evidences of cliffs morphogenesis and evolution, making possible we propose a classification of these features, within a regional framework of Formação Barreiras: 1) cliffs preceded by a beach; 2) cliffs not preceded by a beach.

East Matagorda Peninsula in southwestern Texas is characterized geologically by active, regional-scale and near-surface growth faulting. Decimeter scale (up to 0.42 m) vertical displacement was recorded at the study site over a period of four years, not believed to be associated with growth faulting. This research tested the hypotheses that fault slip rates were correlated with sediment accumulation rates, and that the observed vertical displacement was produced by shrink-and-swell clays in near surface sediments. To quantify sediment accumulation rates, a suite of radionuclides (7Be, 137Cs, and 210Pb) were used. To understand the effects of shrink-and-swell clays, analyses including particle size distribution, X-ray diffraction (XRD), and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) were completed. Additionally, the free swell index test (FSI) was used to record the swelling potential of the sediment. Strong correlation (R2 = 0.99) indicates coupling between mean fault slip rates and mean sediment accumulation rates. Near surface sediment clay size fraction percentages ranged from 0.96 - 6.26% containing more than 90% smectite. Based on FSI results, maximum volume change in the top six cm was determined to be 208%. The presence and behavior of shrink-and-swell clay minerals in the region is an important contributor to the vertical displacement observed.

This study uses topographic profiles, washover fan volumes, and shoreline retreat rates to explore relationships between barrier types and Hurricane Harvey storm washover sedimentation. Pre- and post-Hurricane Harvey topographic profiles were created on 15 transects using Bare Earth LiDAR (2016) and surveyed elevations (2019). Depth and area of washover fan measurements were collected to estimate washover fan volumes. An inverse relationship was found between washover fan volume and pre- and post-storm barrier heights. Based on the topographic profiles, one section of shoreline had a scarp up to 3m high which blocked overwash, but appears to have increased shoreline erosion. In contrast, a low-lying section of shoreline generated relatively large washover fans, but experienced less shoreline retreat. Shoreline retreat was further quantified between 2014 and 2019 using Google Earth Imagery from 2014, 2016, 2017, and 2019 to track migration of the shoreline. The entire shoreline in the study area is undergoing relatively rapid retreat, but the results suggest that Hurricane Harvey increased erosional rates. The Colorado River Jetty borders the study area and may have acted as an anthropogenic barrier, likely reducing storm surge energy and contributing to marsh aggradation on transects in its close proximity. The study findings indicate that the identification and incorporation of other variables that influence washover magnitude would further the understanding of this complex natural system. The research results provide valuable information on the interaction of hurricane storm surge with natural and anthropogenic barriers, beach and dune erosion, and marsh aggradation along the coast of Texas.