There are some empirical formulas used in the design of rubble mound breakwaters to find the weight of armour layer stone. The effect of wave grouping and spectral shape could not put into these design formulas since their effects are still under question. The influences of wave groups and spectral shape on the stability of rubble mound breakwaters have been investigated by several researchers up to now. However, results were not conclusive in these researches, where different wave grouping and spectral shape parameters were used. This study aims to investigate the influences of wave groups and spectral shape on the stability of rubble mound breakwaters by means of hydraulic model experiments. According to the result of the experiments, the damage to breakwater armour layer is almost same for different spectrum shapes and pronounced wave grouping, under the condition of similar wave statistics. Experiments also indicated that the wave trains with same significant wave height, H1/3, but with different distribution of the heights of extreme waves which were defined as wave heights higher than H1/3 in this study, cause different damage levels. Based on these results, extended experiments were conducted to observe the effect of heights of extreme waves in a wave train on the stability of rubble mound breakwaters. Results of the experiments showed that the higher the extreme waves are, the more destructive the wave train is. By carrying experimental results into design conditions, it was shown that a wave train with high extreme waves may affect the design weight of armour stone. Finally, in order to achieve more practical tools for engineering applications, occurrence probabilities of extreme waves under different spectral shapes were obtained by a numerical simulation. As a result, for different occurrence probabilities of extreme waves under the most widely used spectrums of PM and JONSWAP, necessary weight of armour stone was given in a range comparing with the formula of Meer. Moreover, it was noted that the spectral shape indirectly affects the stability not due to the wave grouping but due to the extreme waves in a wave train since the occurrence probability of the high extreme waves becomes higher as the spectral shape becomes narrower under same significant wave height condition.

Coastal defense structures have primary importance from obtainabilty of resources and benefits served by the coastal regions point of view. However, the construction of coastal defense structures demand a high amount of investment. Therefore, in order to reduce the risk of collapse of these structures, model studies should be carried during the design process. In this study, model investigations were carried out on Eastern Black Sea Highway Project regarding the serviceability and damage thus stability parameters. 5 different models were constructed as berm type rubble-mound breakwaters using Van Der Meer&rsquo / s approach and berm design guidelines, with a scale of 1/31.08 and they were tested both for breaking and non-breaking waves. The experiments took place in the Coastal and Harbor Engineering Laboratory of the Middle East Technical University, Civil Engineering Department. The models were constructed and tested with different berm widths and armor stone sizes forming the back armor layer in order to examine the effect of these design parameters on the stability and serviceability of the coastal defense structure to obtain the optimum alternative cross-section. Cumulative damage was minimum for the cross-section constructed with berm width 15 m assigning the width of the prototype. Water spray and run-up values were also not significant. The test results were confirming with Van Der Meer design approach.

This thesis analyzes the coastal landscape evaluation that is strongly rooted in the man-environment tradition. Scenery is a natural resource and managers need to attempt the evaluation of scenic resources in an objective and quantitative way that can be utilized mainly in landscape preservation and protection. The thesis will try to find an objective way in evaluation of the coastal scenery by using fuzzy logic mathematics and public perception studies. Using mathematical model developed within the frame work of the present study the selected 22 sites in Turkey were evaluated and then classified.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Delft University of Technology, 2004. / Includes bibliographical references and abstracts in English and Dutch.

Shippagan Gully is a tidal inlet located near Shippagan, New Brunswick on the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. It is a particularly complex tidal inlet due to the fact that its tidal lagoon transects the Acadian peninsula and is open to the Bay des Chaleurs at its opposite end. As such, two open boundaries with phase lagged tidal cycles drive flow through the inlet, alternating direction with each tide and reaching velocities in excess of 2m/s. Hydrodynamic and morphological processes at the site are further complicated by the presence of a highly variable wave climate. Presently, shipping practices through the inlet are limited due to continual sedimentation within and immediately offshore from Shippagan Gully. As such, an extensive field study, desktop analysis and numerical and morphological modeling of Shippagan Gully have been conducted in order to provide guidance for future works. Modeling was conducted using the CMS-Wave and CMS-Flow numerical modeling system.

Joint probability methods for assessing storm surge flood risk involve the use of a collection of hydrodynamic storm simulations to fit a response surface model describing the functional relationship between storm surge and storm parameters like central pressure deficit and the radius of maximum wind speed. However, in areas with a sufficiently low probability of flooding, few storms in the simulated storm suite may produce surge, with most storms leaving the location dry with zero flooding. Analysts could treat these zero-depth, “non-wetting” storms as either truncated or censored data. If non-wetting storms are excluded from the training set used to fit the storm surge response surface, the resulting suite of wetting storms may have too few observations to produce a good fit; in the worst case, the model may no longer be identifiable. If non-wetting storms are censored using a constant value, this could skew the response surface fit. The problem is that non-wetting storms are indistinguishable, but some storms may have been closer to wetting than others for a given location. To address these issues, this thesis proposes the concept of a negative surge, or “pseudo-surge”, value with the intent to describe how close a storm came to causing surge at a location. Optimal pseudo-surge values are determined by their ability to improve the predictive performance of the response surface via minimization of a modified least squares error function. We compare flood depth exceedance estimates generated with and without pseudo-surge to determine the value of perfect information. Though not uniformly reducing flood depth exceedance estimate bias, pseudo-surge values do make improvements for some regions where <40% of simulated storms produced wetting. Furthermore, pseudo-surge values show potential to replace a post-processing heuristic implemented in the state-of-the-art response surface methodology that corrects flood depth exceedance estimates for locations where very few storms cause wetting.

A new methodology for the determination of target element sizes for the construction of finite element meshes applicable to the simulation of tidal flow in coastal and oceanic domains is developed and tested. The methodology is consistent with the discrete physics of tidal flow, and includes the effects of bottom stress. The method enables the estimation of the localized truncation error of the nonconservative momentum equations throughout a triangulated data set of water surface elevation and flow velocity. The method's domain-wide applicability is due in part to the formulation of a new localized truncation error estimator in terms of complex derivatives. More conventional criteria that are often used to determine target element sizes are limited to certain bathymetric conditions. The methodology developed herein is applicable over a broad range of bathymetric conditions, and can be implemented efficiently. Since the methodology permits the determination of target element size at points up to and including the coastal boundary, it is amenable to coastal domain applications including estuaries, embayments, and riverine systems. These applications require consideration of spatially varying bottom stress and advective terms, addressed herein. The new method, called LTEA-CD (localized truncation error analysis with complex derivatives), is applied to model solutions over the Western North Atlantic Tidal model domain (the bodies of water lying west of the 60° W meridian). The convergence properties of LTEACD are also analyzed. It is found that LTEA-CD may be used to build a series of meshes that produce converging solutions of the shallow water equations. An enhanced version of the new methodology, LTEA+CD (which accounts for locally variable bottom stress and Coriolis terms) is used to generate a mesh of the WNAT model domain having 25% fewer nodes and elements than an existing mesh upon which it is based; performance of the two meshes, in an average sense, is indistinguishable when considering elevation tidal signals. Finally, LTEA+CD is applied to the development of a mesh for the Loxahatchee River estuary; it is found that application of LTEA+CD provides a target element size distribution that, when implemented, outperforms a high-resolution semi-uniform mesh as well as a manually constructed, existing, documented mesh.

Nature-based solutions (NBS) are promising strategies for protecting vulnerable coasts in the context of climate change, utilizing the coastal protection capabilities of natural ecosystems for engineering applications. The ability of coastal marsh vegetation to attenuate wave energy and prevent coastal erosion has been acknowledged for decades, however, consideration for their use in coastal protection strategies is presently limited, particularly in Canada due to a lack of engineering guidelines and limited available research considering region-specific variables. Physical modelling presents a useful tool for investigating the coastal protection function provided by marsh vegetation in a controlled, repeatable environment, which can ultimately inform the design of nature-based coastal protection strategies. To date, such studies have investigated the influence of plant biophysical parameters (stem flexibility, width, and height) and hydrodynamic conditions (wave height, wave period, and plant submergence) on wave attenuation. These studies have used either live vegetation, requiring full-scale wave testing, or surrogate vegetation, which allows simplified testing at either full- or reduced-scale. Overall, live vegetation studies have been limited in the variety of saltmarsh plants considered, with few studies considering plant species native to the Canadian coastline. Several physical modelling studies have been performed using surrogate plants, however, methods of surrogate development for flexible vegetation or reduced-scale testing are not yet well developed. This thesis aims to address knowledge gaps pertaining to the use of marsh vegetation in coastal protection strategies, particularly through the development of experimental methods with both live and surrogate plants. A full-scale flume study with live vegetation was performed to develop fundamental knowledge of wave-vegetation interactions for Spartina alterniflora and Spartina patens, two salt marsh species native to Canada’s Atlantic coast. S. alterniflora was observed to demonstrate a resistance strategy in response to hydrodynamic forcing, versus the avoidance strategy of S. patens, supporting complementary functioning of the two species if utilized together in coastal protection schemes. Observations of plant properties and stem bending from live plant tests were subsequently applied in the development of a small-scale flume study, which examined wave attenuation associated with a downscaled S. alterniflora meadow in the configuration of a “living dyke” structure. Wave damping induced by surrogate vegetation was observed to be minimal for the tested wave conditions (0.073 m < Hm0 < 0.225 m, 2.0 < Tp < 3.2 s, 1:4 scale) and beach slope (1V:20H), with wave height evolution dominated by wave shoaling and breaking. Several methods were considered for modelling the S. alterniflora meadow at reduced scale, and results demonstrated a sensitivity to surrogate diameter but not flexibility. The development of robust experimental methods for investigating the performance of nature-based coastal infrastructure is essential for the establishment of appropriate design conditions. The scale series approach of this thesis supports such methodological advancements and is expected to make preliminary contributions to design guidance on coastal marsh-based NBS and provide critical direction for future studies.

Thesis (MScEng)--Stellenbosch University, 2014. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: Sea-level rise due to climate change results in deeper water next to existing coastal structures, which in turn enables higher waves to reach these structures. Wave overtopping occurs when wave action discharges water over the crest of a coastal structure. Therefore, the higher waves reaching existing structures will cause higher wave overtopping rates. One possible solution to address increasing overtopping, is to raise the crest level of existing coastal structures. However, raising the crest level of a seawall at the back of a beach, will possibly obstruct the view to the ocean from inland. Alternatively, recurves can be incorporated into the design of both existing and new seawalls. The recurve wall reduces overtopping by deflecting uprushing water seawards as waves impact with the wall. The main advantage of seawalls with recurves is that their crest height can be lower, but still allow for the same wave overtopping rate as vertical seawalls without recurves. This project investigates the use of recurve seawalls at the back of a beach to reduce overtopping and thereby reducing the required wall height. The objectives of the project are twofold, namely: (1) to compare overtopping rates of a vertical seawall without a recurve and seawalls with recurves; and (2) to determine the influence that the length of the recurve overhang has on the overtopping rates. To achieve these objectives, physical model tests were performed in a glass flume equipped with a piston type wave paddle that is capable of active wave absorption. These tests were performed on three different seawall profiles: the vertical wall and a recurve section with a short and a long seaward overhang, denoted as Recurve 1 and Recurve 2 respectively. Tests were performed with 5 different water-levels, while the wall height, wave height and period, and seabed slope remained constant. Both breaking and non-breaking waves were simulated. A comparison of test results proves that the two recurve seawalls are more effective in reducing overtopping than the vertical seawall. The reduction of overtopping can be as high as 100%, depending on the freeboard and wave conditions. Recurve 2 proves to be the most efficient in reducing overtopping. However, in the case of a high freeboard (low water-level at the toe of the structure), the reduction in overtopping for Recurve 1 and Recurve 2 was almost equally effective. This is because all water from the breaking waves is reflected. Even for the simulated lower relative freeboard cases, the recurve walls offer a significant reduction in overtopping compared with the vertical wall. A graph is presented which shows that the length of the seaward overhang influences the overtopping performance of the seawall. As the seaward overhang length increases, the wave overtopping rate decreases. However, for high freeboard cases the length of the seaward overhang becomes less important. The graph gives designers an indication of how recurves can be designed to reduce seawall height while retaining low overtopping. It is recommended that further model tests be performed for additional overhang lengths. Incorporation of recurves into seawall design represents an adaptation to problems of sea-level rise due to global warming / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Stygende seevlak as gevolg van klimaatverandering, veroorsaak dat dieper water langs bestaande kusstrukture voorkom. Gevolglik kan hoër golwe hierdie strukture bereik. Golfoorslag vind plaas wanneer water oor die kruin van ‘n kusstruktuur, hoofsaaklik deur golfaksie, spat of vloei. Dus sal hoër golfhoogtes tot verhoogde golfoorslag lei. Een moontlike oplossing vir hierdie verhoogde golfoorslag is om die kruinhoogte van bestaande kusstrukture te verhoog. In die geval van ‘n seemuur aan die agterkant van ‘n strand, kan hoër strukture egter die see-uitsig na die see vanaf die land belemmer. Om hierdie probleem te vermy, kan terugkaatsmure in die ontwerp van bestaande en nuwe seemure ingesluit word. Terugkaatsmure verminder golfoorslag deurdat opspattende water, afkomstig van invallende golwe terug, na die see gekaats word. Die grootste voordeel van ‘n terugkaatsmuur is dat hierdie tipe muur ‘n laer kruinhoogte as die vertikale seemuur sonder ‘n terugkaatsbalk, vir dieselfde golfoorslagtempo kan hê. Hierdie projek ondersoek dus die gebruik van terugkaatsmure aan die agterkant van ‘n strand met die doel om golfoorslag te verminder en sodoende die vereiste muurhoogte te verminder. Die doelwit vir die projek is tweeledig: (1) om die golfoorslagtempo van terugkaatsmure te vergelyk met dié van ‘n vertikale muur sonder ‘n terugkaatsbalk; en (2) om die invloed van die terugkaatsmuur se oorhanglengte op die golfoorslagtempo te bepaal. Om bogenoemde doelwitte te bereik, is fisiese modeltoetse in ‘n golfkanaal, wat met ‘n suiertipe golfopwekker toegerus is en wat aktiewe golfabsorbering toepas, uitgevoer. Hierdie toetse is op drie verskillende seemuurprofiele, naamlik ‘n vertikale muur en ‘n terugkaatsmuur met ‘n kort en lang oorhang, genaamd “Recurve 1” en “Recurve 2” onderskeidelik, uitgevoer. Die muurhoogte, die seebodemhelling asook die golfhoogte en –periode is tydens al die toetse konstant gehou. Vir elke profiel is toetse by 5 verskillende watervlakke vir beide brekende en ongebreekte golwe uitgevoer. Uit die toetsresultate is dit duidelik dat terugkaatsmure meer effektief as vertikale mure is om golfoorslag te beperk. Die vermindering van golfoorslag kan tot 100% wees, afhangende van die vryboord en golftoestande. Daar is bevind dat “Recurve 2” golfoorslag die effektiefste verminder. In die geval van hoë vryboord (lae watervlak by die toon van die struktuur) is daar egter gevind dat “Recurve 1” en “Recurve 2” die golfoorslag feitlik ewe goed beperk. Dit is die geval aangesien alle water van die brekende golwe weerkaats word. In die geval van ‘n lae vryboord, word die voordeel van die terugkaatsmuur teengewerk deurdat daar ‘n kleiner verskil in golfoorslagtempo’s tussen die drie profiele is. ‘n Grafiek is voorgelê wat wys dat die lengte van die terugkaatsmuur se oorhang golfoorslag beperk. ‘n Groter oorhanglengte van die terugslagmuur veroorsaak ‘n groter vermindering in golfoorslag. Vir gevalle met ‘n hoë vryboord, is daar egter gevind dat die oorhanglengte van die terugslagmuur minder belangrik is. Hierdie grafiek gee ontwerpers ‘n aanduiding van hoe terugslagmure ontwerp kan word met ‘n lae hoogte terwyl ‘n lae oorslagtempo behou word. Die gebruik van terugslagmure bied ‘n aanpassing vir die probleme van seevlakstyging, as gevolg van klimaatverandering.

Thesis (MScEng)--Stellenbosch University, 2014. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: As the world finds itself increasingly unable to avoid the negative impacts of the physical phenomena associated with climate change, adaptation to climate change has been brought to the forefront of the international agenda. The range of adaptation technologies available can be categorized into three basic strategies (IPCC, 1990): Protection, (managed) Retreat, or Accommodation. The practice of adapting existing developments and infrastructure in the coastal zone by the process of accommodation has not yet seen wide implementation as a formalised adaptation strategy. In order for a community to accept and successfully implement accommodation strategies, all community stakeholders are required to accept and live with a certain level of managed risk, and to also rethink the concept of failure. As a result, accommodation practices implemented globally have been closely related to fields such as risk - and disaster management. Structural innovations in the field of accommodation measures include advanced technologies to elevate existing buildings safely above flood levels, and even “amphibious” houses. In Cape Town, South Africa, the choice between protection, retreat or accommodation as an adaptation measure remains complex. Not much discussion has yet been generated concerning accommodation measures that could be implemented to reduce the risk to existing properties that are already inappropriately located in the risk zone (e.g. seaward of the coastal hazard line), by accommodating the dynamic coastal processes taking place. Accommodation has been found to be most feasible in Cape Town at case study sites with a stable, non- or slowly eroding shoreline, which are also subject to flooding. The elevation of buildings and the alteration of buildings for flood-proofing, in unison with proactive risk and disaster management, could be implemented to accommodate the impacts of flooding on affected infrastructure. Located on Cape Town’s Atlantic Seaboard, Bakoven serves as a case study sample of such a site where an accommodation-based adaptation solution could be feasible. Both global and regional downscaled climate models have been found to deliver a large range of future climate conditions. Assuming best estimate future predictions, Bakoven properties have been found vulnerable to extreme flooding during both status quo and future extreme events. Environmental conditions at Bakoven are favourable for the construction of piled foundations. Stringent environmental and heritage constraints imposed by local government would, however, render accommodation strategies unviable. It is recommended that government at all levels be willing to adopt a more flexible approach to governing coastal areas, to ensure that the regulations they impose remain as dynamic as the environments which they govern. The viability and possible benefits of accommodation measures, rather than protection or retreat approaches should be carefully considered on an individual case-by-case basis, in unison with the local community. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Wêreldwyd is gemeenskappe besig om toenemend te ervaar dat hul nie die nadelige gevolge van klimaatsverandering kan vryspring nie. Juis daarom, is aanpassing tot klimaatsverandering noodsaaklik. Die verskeidenheid van beskikbare benaderinge tot klimaatsverandering aanpassing kan in drie hoof kategorieë ingedeel word, volgens die IPCC (1990): Beskerming, (stelselmatige) Retireer of Akkomodasie. Die aanpassing van bestaande infrastruktuur d.m.v. akkomodasie is nog nie wyd geïmplementeer as ‘n amptelike aanpassings strategie nie. Ten einde die sukses van ‘n akkommodasie strategie te verseker, sal gemeenskappe genoodsaak wees om ‘n sekere vlak van residuele risiko te aanvaar en die konsep van die ‘faling’ te herdefinieer. Akkommodasie oplossings wêreldwyd is daarom nouliks verwant aan risiko- en rampsbestuur. Innovasies in die struktuurindustrie om die risiko van klimaatsverandering te akkommodeer, sluit onder andere in die fisiese oplig van geboue na ‘n hoër, veilige vlak, en ook die bou van sogenaamde “amfibiese” huise. In Kaapstad is die bepaling van die mees gepaste en voordelige aanpassings oplossing, net soos in die res van die wêreld, kompleks. Die moontlikheid van die gebruik van akkommodasie benaderinge en tegnologieë, eerder as beskermingsstrategieë, is nog nie welbekend of algemeen geïmplementeer nie. Daar bestaan wel ‘n geleentheid om hierdie tegnologieë toe te pas in die geval van bestaande strukture wat seewaarts van die dinamiese kusproses lyn, geleë is. Hierdie studie het bevind dat akkommodasie oplossings moontlik suksesvol kan wees by spesifieke gevallestudies langs Kaapstad se kuslyn waar die kuslyn grootendeels stabiel is. Die oplig en verandering van geboue om vloedbestand te wees, tesame met proaktiewe risiko- en rampsbestuur maatreëls, word by sommige van hierdie gevallestudies aanbeveel om die impak van klimaatsverandering te akkomodeer. Bakoven, ‘n klein gemeenskapsbuurt op Kaapstad se kuslyn, is ‘n voorbeeld van ‘n geval waar ‘n akkommodasie oplossing moontlik goed kan werk. Globale klimaatsmodelle lewer ‘n wye reeks van toekomstige klimaatsvoorspellings vir die jaar 2063. Tydens die toets van die mees waarskynlike toekomstige klimaats-scenario, is bevind dat Bakoven kwesbaar is vir die verwagte vloeding a.g.v. seevlakstyging verwag teen 2063. Daar is ook bevind dat selfs tydens huidige storms, sommige strukture aan Bakoven se kus kwesbaar is. Die omgewingstoestande by Bakoven word beskou as voordelig vir die konstruksie van heipale as fondasies om die geboue hoër op te lig. As gevolg van streng munisipale regulasies met omgewings- en geskiedkundige bewaring as doel, is hierdie opsie egter nie moontlik nie. Dit word aanbeveel dat die regulasies wat deur regeringsamptenare daargestel word, aanpasbaar genoeg moet wees om die veranderende kusomgewing in ag te neem. Die moontlikheid en volhoubaarheid van ‘n akkommodasie oplossing, eerder as ‘n beskermings- of opgee benaderinge, moet deeglik ondersoek word vir elke ‘n individuele geval, in samewerking met die betrokke gemeenskap.