The effect of non-cohesive sediment on wave-induced bottom boundary layers was examined experimentally. Fluid velocity and sediment concentration were measured simultaneously in a sheet regime generated in a u-shaped oscillating water tunnel. A major obstacle to the understanding of fluid-grain flow has been the absence of suitable measuring devices. Thus, previous experimental investigations have been concerned primarily with low sediment concentration flows. For this study, a probe was developed to measure the instantaneous variations in sediment concentration based on the electrical conductivity of the fluid-grain mixture. Unlike earlier concentration devices, this probe is non-intrusive and is capable of measuring a wide range of sediment concentrations; from close packing within the bed to low concentration suspended load. Horizontal fluid velocities were measured simultaneously using Laser Doppler Anemometry in backscatter mode. Height and time-dependent velocity and concentration profiles were obtained for differing wave and sediment conditions. Values of the shear stress calculated from the momentum integral were found to be an order of magnitude larger than in sediment-free flows. The variation in shear stress with distance from the bed is clearly dependent on the thickness of the movable bed and also on the sediment flow regime. As expected, the eddy viscosity varied significantly during the wave cycle. The time-mean eddy viscosity decreases with height above the movable bed and at large distances from the bed, fluctuates about the mean. The sediment concentration measurements provide a comprehensive data set for sediment transport in sheet flow and near sheet flow regimes. The sediment concentration was found to be time-dependent with the amplitude and form of the temporal variation dependent on distance from the bed, wave amplitude and velocity, and sediment characteristics. With increasing wave amplitude and velocity, the number of peaks in the concentration profile increased while the magnitude of the peaks decreased. Fluid velocity and sediment concentration measurements were used to calculate rates of sediment transport which were compared with predictions from existing models.

Dissertação(mestrado) - Universidade Federal do Rio Grande, Programa de Pós-Graduação em Engenharia Oceânica, Escola de Engenharia, 2008. / Submitted by Lilian M. Silva (lilianmadeirasilva@hotmail.com) on 2013-04-20T19:00:16Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Estudo da influência dos fatores climáticos e hidrológicos no ciclo morfodinâmico praial de um sangradouro intermitente, Praia do Cassino, Brasil..pdf: 3556854 bytes, checksum: 026ab90e4875dac2d9a2305985f758b0 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Bruna Vieira(bruninha_vieira@ibest.com.br) on 2013-06-08T22:43:22Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 Estudo da influência dos fatores climáticos e hidrológicos no ciclo morfodinâmico praial de um sangradouro intermitente, Praia do Cassino, Brasil..pdf: 3556854 bytes, checksum: 026ab90e4875dac2d9a2305985f758b0 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2013-06-08T22:43:22Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Estudo da influência dos fatores climáticos e hidrológicos no ciclo morfodinâmico praial de um sangradouro intermitente, Praia do Cassino, Brasil..pdf: 3556854 bytes, checksum: 026ab90e4875dac2d9a2305985f758b0 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2008 / Os sangradouros são cursos d’água fundamentais para a drenagem da água acumulada na região de pós-dunas, abastecem a zona de espraiamento com sedimentos arenosos e são os maiores causadores de descontinuidades no cordão de dunas frontais ao longo da costa do Rio Grande do Sul. Neste trabalho foi eleito como objeto de estudo um sangradouro considerando principalmente aspectos logísticos. O elemento escolhido localiza-se na Praia da Querência, onze quilômetros ao sul da desembocadura da Lagoa dos Patos. Este trabalho consiste na determinação e quantificação dos processos associados ao ciclo morfodinâmico evolutivo, estudando o mecanismo responsável pela sua abertura e fechamento. A metodologia empregada envolveu a elaboração de poços de monitoramento e a instalação dos mesmos na área de estudo, medições de níveis do lençol freático, levantamentos topográficos periódicos, amostragem sedimentar de superfície e análise de dados meteorológicos. Os resultados obtidos consubstanciam a idéia original de que o processo evolutivo do sangradouro é controlado pelo balanço entre as precipitações pluviométricas e as taxas de evaporação. Medições efetuadas nos poços de monitoramento sugerem que os níveis do lençol freático na área de impacto do sangradouro variam principalmente de acordo com intensidade do fluxo em direção à costa, sendo que o lençol freático mostrou-se mais profundo quando o sangradouro esteve aberto e sofreu uma elevação de 30 a 40 centímetros quando a calha do sangradouro foi fechada por processos costeiros.Notou-se que lençol freático no campo de dunas apresenta comportamento mais estável do quena região da berma. Percebeu-se também a ocorrência de dois ciclos distintos no processo evolutivo, um de longo prazo associado à destruição do campo de dunas frontais e outro de curto prazo ligado ao surgimento e destruição de uma barra arenosa secundaria, localizada na berma, que tem como origem a interação entre os processos na zona de surfe e os processos hidrológicos e hidrogeológicos da região do pós-dunas. Apesar da ocorrência de transporte de sedimentos por arraste e em suspensão pela corrente na calha do sangradouro, parece não ser este o principal processo erosivo e sim as ações ligadas aos fenômenos ocorrentes na zona de surfe. / The washouts are water courses important for draining the accumulated water from backshore and supply the swash zone with sand transport, it’s responsible too by local destruction of dunes field along the southern coast of Brazil. For that work was chosen a washout considering his geographical localization and our disposal logistical facilities. In that case was chosen a washout located in the Querência beach, which is situated 11 km toward south from Patos Lagoon mouth. This work consists in determination and quantification of processes associated to the morphodynamic evolution cycle this water body, studying the mechanism which causes the opening and closing of washout. The methodology consists in building and installation of monitoring wells in the study area, measurements ofwater table level, periodic topographic surveys, surface sediment sampling and analysis of meteorological data. The obtained results suggest that evolutionary process of washout is controlled by the balance between rain and evaporation rates. The wellsmeasurement suggests that water table level changes with the intensity of underground flowtoward the swash zone. When the washout opens the water table down but when washout closes by coastal processes the level up to 40 cm. It was observed that water table under the dunes field show most stability than under the berm. It was observed also occurrence of two different cycles in washout evolutionary process, one of long-term associated to destruction of local dunes field and other of short-term controlled by formation and destruction of a sand bar, placed over berm zone, which is originated by the interaction between processes in the surf zone versus hydrological and hydrogeological processes in the backshore zone. Despite occurrence of sediment transport into the channel of washout, it doesn’t seem to be the main erosive process, the principal erosion seems to be strongly related to the phenomena which occur into the surf zone.

Les plages sableuses et les dunes côtuères occupent encore de nos jours une place importante dans la zone côtière du Nord-Pas-de-Calais. Ces accumulations sableuses, qui sont parfois le seul rempart protégeant les zones basses de la plaine côtière des submersions marines, sont des milieux particulièrement vulnérables dans le contexte actuel de l'élévation du niveau de la mer associée au changement climatique. Les objectifs principaux de la thèse étaient d'analyser les variations du trait de côte et du bilan sédimentaire à l'échelle régionale, d'apprécier le rôle des variations du volume sédimentaire sur la stabilité de la ligne de rivage, et d'évaluer les zones les plus menacées par les risques littoraux dans un avenir proche, de travail reposant en grande partie sur l'utilisation de données topographiques acquises par LiDAR aéroporté entre 2008 et 2014 ainsi que de photographies aériennes de 1963 à 2009. L'analyse de l'évolution du trait de côte a montré des évolutions contrastées, que ce soit spatialement ou temporellement. En effet, plusieurs portions de littoral ont connu une propagation du trait de côte à long terme, comme à court terme, tandis que d'autres sites ont subi un très fort recul à l'échelle de plusieurs décennies, mais aussi ces dernières années. La comparaison entre l'évolution du trait de côte et le volume initial du haut de plage en 2008, a montré que les reculs les plus importants se sont essentiellement produits dans les secteurs où l'on pouvait observer une absence de haut de plage à marée haute. Sur plusieurs sites, nos résultats suggèrent également qu'à partir d'un volume seuil de sédiments sur le haut de plage, le trait de côte est stable ou montre une tendance à la propagation vers le large. La cartographie de l'aléa de submersion marine à l'horizon 2050, prenant en compte la hausse du niveau marin liée au changement climatique, a montré clairement des franchissements du cordon dunaire sur plusieurs sites. Cette cartographie étant établie sur les données topographiques les plus récentes, à savoir décembre 2013 et janvier 2014, ces submersions potentiells ont une forte probabilité de se produire bien plus tôt que l'année 2050 en raison des forts taux d'érosion constatés sur certains massifs dunaires. Le calcul des bilans sédimentaires de l'ensemble du littoral régional, a montré, dans l'ensemble, une tendance à l'accrétion. Cette accrétion est d'autant plus significative pour le haut de plage et les dunes côtières, hormis pour quelques sites qui connaissent un grave déficit sédimentaire (particulièrement dans la baie de Wissant et sur la rive nord de la baie de l'Authie). Ces résultats suggèrent que la côte du Nord-Pas-de-Calais ne se trouve pas dans une situation de pénurie sédimentaire mais connaitrait plutôt une accumulation sur la majeure partie de son linéaire côtier. / Sandy beaches and coastal dunes still represent a significant portion of the coastal of Nord-Pas-de-Calais, northern France. These sandy accumulation landforms, which sometimes constitute the only defense protecting low-lying coastal areas from coastal flooding, are particularly vulnerable to sea level rise associated with climate change. The main objectives of the thesis were to analyze shoreline change and coastal sediment budget at the regional scale, to assess the role of changes in sediment volume on shoreline stability,and to evaluate areas at risk from coastal hazards in the near future, using airborne topographic LiDAR data collected between 2008 and 2014 and aerial photographs from 1963 to 2009. Analyses of shoreline change revealed spatially as well as temporally variables evolutions.Seaward shoreline progradation occured along several stretches of coastline at multidecadal and short times-scales, while significant coastal retreat took place at other sites during the same time periods. The comparison between coastline evolution and the initial volume of the upper beach in 2008 showed that the higher retreat rates were mainly observed in areas where the upper beach was lacking at high tide. Our results also suggest that there is a sediment volume threshold on the upper beach at each site above which the coastline is stable or progrades seaward. Mapping of areas at risk of marine flooding in 2050, taking into account a projection of sea level rise due to climate change, clearly shows that the submersion of coastal dunes would take place at several sites during storm-induced high water level events. The mapping of these areas at risk being based on topographic data collected in December 2013 and January 2014, coastal flooding is very likely to occur much earlier than 2050 at several sites, however, where very high rates of coastal retreat result in severe erosion of the coastal dunes. The calculation of sediment budget based on the repetitive LiDAR surveys shows that, overall, sediment accretion predominates over the entire regional coastal zone. This accretion is particularly significant for the upper beach and coastal dunes, except for a few sites that are characterized by a strong sediment deficit (particularly Wissant bay and the Northern shore of the Authie estuary). These results suggest that the coastal zone of Northern France does not experience sediment shortage, but is rather dominated by sediment storage in the backshore of the sand beaches

Les communautés microbiennes procèdent au recyclage des nutriments et à la degradation de la matière organique, et sont ainsi essentielles aux cycles biogéochimiques dans le sédiment et plus largement dans les océans. La contamination chronique aux hydrocarbures représente près de 80% des déversements totaux dans les océans. Toutefois, en comparaison des marées noires, son impact sur les communautés microbiennes est encore mal compris. Dans cette étude, nous avons d’abord utilisé une approche de type méta-analyse pour élucider l’effet global de la contamination aux hydrocarbures dans différents habitats. La réponse des communautés bactériennes à la contamination s’est révélée être dépendante du type d’habitat, les sols étant plus impactés que d’autres habitats, comme par exemple les sédiments marins. Nous nous sommes ensuite intéressés aux communautés microbiennes des trois domaines du vivant de sédiments côtiers provenant des côtes méditerranéennes et atlantiques. La contamination chronique n’influençait que marginallement les communautés benthiques, et la diversité alpha n’était pas réduite dans les sédiments contaminés. Cedendant, la comparaison des réseaux de co-occurrence des échantillons contaminés et non-contaminés a montré que le réseau des communautés contaminées présentait une topologie différente, indiquant une vulnérabilité plus importante à d’éventuelles perturbations environnementales. Des indicateurs potentiels de la contamination identifiés avec la méta-analyse ont été ciblés pour étudier l’impact de la contamination chronique aux hydrocarbures sur les services écologiques qu’ils assurent (i.e. la dégradation de la matière organique et des hydrocarbures) en utillisant la technique de Micro-FISH. / Within the sediment, microbial communities play a pivotal role by driving essential processes such as nutrient cycling and organic matter degradation. Chronic hydrocarbons contamination represents almost 80% of the total input in the oceans. However, as compared to oil spills, its impact on microbial communities remains poorly understood. In this study, we first used a meta-analysis approach to decipher the global effect of hydrocarbons contamination in different habitats. Bacterial community response to the contamination was found to be dependant of the habitat studied, with soils being more impacted than other habitats, like marine sediments. Because bacteria are in interactions with other important members of microbial communities such as Archaea and Eukaryotes, we focused on microbial communities from the three domains of life in coastal marine sediments from the Mediterrranean and the French Atlantic coasts. Independently of the domains of life, chronic hydrocarbons contamination appeared to be a poor driver of communities structuration, and alpha diversity was not reduced in contaminated sediments. However, the comparison of co-occurences networks of contaminated and non-contaminated samples showed that the network from the contaminated samples exhibited a different topology, which suggests a higher vulnerability to eventual environmental perturbations. Potential indicators species identified using the meta-analysis approach were targeted to study the impact of chronic contamination on the ecological services they provide (i.e. organic matter and hydrocarbons degradation) using the Micro-FISH method.

Cette thèse présente une simulation, en canal à houle, des processus naturels hydrodynamiques etde transport sédimentaire de la zone de déferlement bathymétrique. L’analyse spatio-temporelle dela structure moyenne et instantanée de l’écoulement repose sur un jeu de mesures hauterésolutions.On effectue une étude des processus de couche limite et de l’impact des processus desurface libre sur le fond sédimentaire.Un profil de plage en forme de terrasse est engendré par le déferlement de séries de vagues irrégulières(JONSWAP) sur un fond mobile constitué de sédiments de faible densité (_ _ 1.19). Dans cesconditions, la mesure acoustique (ADVP) de profils de vitesse, de concentration et de flux de sédimentsest synchronisée à des séquences d’images vidéo et à des mesures de hauteurs de vagues.Une analyse de l’évolution des quantités moyennes hydrodynamiques et de transport solide est réaliséedans la zone de déferlement. Une analyse à l’échelle intra-vague aborde la structure del’écoulement sous le déferlement de vagues irrégulières. Enfin, on s’attache à une comparaison de lacontrainte au fond sous une vague déferlée calculée par des modèles physiques, à celle obtenue parmesures directes. / This thesis presents a wave channel simulation of the hydrodynamic and sediment transportprocesses in the wave breaking region. The spatio-temporal analysis of the mean and instantaneousflow structure relies on a full set of high resolution data. The study focuses on processes related tothe wave boundary layer and to the impact of surface breaking on the mobile bed.A terraced beach profile is generated by the breaking of irregular wave sequences (JONSWAP) on amobile bed constituted of low density sediments (_ _ 1.19). In these conditions, the acoustic measurementof velocity profiles, concentration profiles and sediment flux profiles are synchronised withsequences of video images and wave heights. An analysis of the evolution of mean hydrodynamicand sediment transport quantities is undertaken across the entire wave breaking zone. An intra-waveanalysis on the flow structure below irregular breaking waves is carried out. Finally, bed shear stressbelow a breaking wave predicted by different physical models and direct measurements, are comparedand discussed.

Maps and models of seismic and tsunami risk are constructed from a variety of measurements taken in Indonesia, which have the potential to reduce loss of life and infrastructure. The first study uses the multichannel analysis of surface waves (MASW) method to calculate the time-averaged shear wave velocity to 30 m depth (Vs30). These measurements were taken at 58 sites in the city of Pacitan, Java and on the islands of Lombok, Ambon, and the Banda Islands. Vs30 calculations are compared with local geologic maps to extrapolate site class for locations not measured directly. Site class maps are then compared with Modified Mercalli Intensity (MMI) observations for three earthquake events that impacted Lombok and Ambon to identify regions where the MMI and Vs30 do and do not corroborate one another. Consistent with other Vs30 studies, the lowest values are observed on coastal alluvial plains and the highest values on steeper hillsides underlain by volcanic deposits. The second study focuses on a potential sector collapse of the volcano Banda Api within the Banda Islands. A field survey of its summit identified a steeply dipping normal fault striking NNE-SSW. This, along with the fissure geometry of the volcano's most recent eruption, reveals a failure plane along which a future sector collapse could occur. The numerical model Tsunami Squares (TS) predicts that the tsunami produced by this landslide would inundate an estimated 63% of buildings on the Banda Islands with waves as high as 82 m. These findings highlight the importance of installing a GPS receiver array on Banda Api to monitor the motion of its slopes. The third study analyzes sediment from trenches on the Banda Islands and Ambon to test if historical tsunamis that have impacted the area are preserved in the geological record. Potential tsunami deposits were identified by the presence of marine sand and larger clasts of marine carbonate in an environment which otherwise lacks large storms to bring such material onshore. Several dating methods constrain the ages of at least seven candidate tsunami deposits found in trenches onshore. One of these historical tsunamis (the event of November 26, 1852) is described in significant detail from several locations across the Banda Sea, which enables modeling of the event using a Bayesian statistical approach. The posterior of this model predicts the most likely epicenter was SW of Seram with a mean magnitude of Mw 8.8. It also makes other predictions about fault parameters. The region exhibits a marked slip deficit based on instrumental records of earthquakes in the area.