Ao analisar o macroambiente no setor de moda, pode-se situar esta indústria em um cenário econômico de competição e de eliminação de fronteiras. Em razão da existência de um grande número de empresas de moda e ao intenso trabalho da mídia, o consumidor está em contato com diversas opções de produtos, preços e facilidades, tornando-se cada vez mais desafiador para uma empresa se destacar nesse mercado. O setor de moda tem como característica a necessidade de renovação e, portanto, o contínuo e cíclico desenvolvimento de produtos. Esta particularidade tem como consequência uma grande influência sobre a gestão, produção, logística e atratividade dos artigos no mercado, que, aliadas à obsolescência, intimamente ligadas às estações do ano, estabelecem para esses produtos um ciclo de vida relativamente curto. Os meios de comunicação tornam-se mecanismos fundamentais para a disseminação da moda, que se revela, na maior parte das vezes, em uma trajetória de uma única via, onde as informações são simplesmente transmitidas ou ditadas. Das transformações no cenário da tecnologia digital da comunicação, emergem novas formas de interação, as mídias sociais. Estas novas tecnologias têm tornado viável uma comunicação contínua entre pessoas e empresas por meio da Internet, que ao valorizar a interação, possibilita que grupos com objetivos comuns se encontrem e possam compartir suas visões e objetivos. Neste contexto, surge um novo modelo de participação colaborativa que pode vir a ser uma ferramenta útil às empresas no desenvolvimento de coleções de moda. Este modelo permitiria, através da comunicação de via dupla, a utilização de opiniões e feedbacks de seus consumidores-alvo para estreitar relações e aperfeiçoar estratégias de segmentação e posicionamento. Pretende-se com o presente trabalho elaborar um estudo sobre a utilização das mídias sociais nas etapas do processo de desenvolvimento de coleções de moda em três diferentes segmentos: a moda exclusiva, o varejo tradicional de moda e o fastfashion. Os resultados demonstraram que as empresas com características mais inovadoras utilizam as mídias sociais com a finalidade de aumentar a visibilidade e o alcance de suas marcas e produtos, apropriando-se de seu potencial de comunicação. Enquanto as que oferecem peças com maior apelo comercial e grande grau de aceitação procuram utiliza-las também com foco na interação, a fim de identificar os desejos vigentes dos consumidores e tentar inseri-los em suas coleções / Analyzing the macro fashion environment, one can situate this industry in economic scenery of competition and frontiers elimination. Due to the presence of a great number of fashion enterprises and the intense media work, the consumer is in contact with several products, prices and convenience options; making it more and more challenging for the enterprise standing out into that market. Fashion sector has, as a characteristic, the need of renewing, and, so, the continuous and cyclical development of products. This particularity has a relatively short life time, as consequence, a great influence on managing, production, logistics and attractiveness of the market article that, allied to the functional obsolescence, strictly linked to the seasons establish, to the products. Means of communication become fundamental mechanisms to fashion dissemination that reveals itself, most of the time, into one way trajectory. From changings in digital technology scenery of communication, there come up new interaction forms, the social media. These new technologies have made the continuous communication viable among people and enterprises by means of Internet, that valuing interaction makes it possible, for groups with common objectives, meeting and sharing their view and goals. Into this context, a new model of collaborative participation comes up, which can be able to aid enterprises, allowing the usage of opinions and feedbacks of their target-consumers, as developing close relations and improving the segmentation strategies and positioning through the double way communication, as being a useful tool to fashion collections development. It is intended, with the present work, to draw up a study on the usage of social media in the process steps of fashion collections development. The results have shown that the companies with the most innovative characteristics utilize social medias in order to grow the visibility and reach of its brands and products, appropriating their communication potential, while the ones that offer bigger commercial appeal parts and great acceptance degree look to utilize them also with interation focus, in order to identify the current consumers wishes and try to insert them into their collections

本文首重比較性廣告的定義，係以國外有關比較性廣告的規定為主，並就相類似 概念一併介紹以確實掌握比較性廣告的範圍，如商品試驗廣告．損害他人營業信 譽．虛偽不實及引人錯誤廣告．頂尖廣告等第三章係介紹比較性廣告之類型與相關實例，第四章為環繞比較性廣告的一 些主要問題，商業言論自由在美．德．日甚至我國的發展過程，以及對比較性廣 告之影響；其次是公平競爭概念，比較性廣告是否本質上即屬不公平競爭行為， 競爭子自由的前提下，競爭者採取比較性廣告時是否可以為所欲為？最後是消費 者資訊的觀念，於比較性廣告中所佔之地位第五章及第六章分就歐美各國有關發展比較性廣告的法律規範，以及廣告自 律體系如何運作對不當廣告的影響力，為概略的敘述及相關事例的介紹，作為我 國規範比較性廣告之參考第七章為我國對比較性廣告的態度以及公平會相關案例之研究，第八為總結

L’attenzione verso la sostenibilità ambientale da parte di istituzioni, società civile e imprese, ha condotto alla diffusione di molteplici strumenti utilizzati delle imprese per dimostrare il proprio impegno per ridurre l’impatto ambientale dei propri prodotti e processi. Tra questi spiccano le eco-label, certificazioni di qualità ambientale. Attraverso una ricerca esplorativa questa tesi intende chiarire i meccanismi che regolano la comunicazione tra istituzione, impresa e cliente, quali siano i i gap informativi più rilevanti in tale triangolazione e le aree di intervento su agire per ridurre le asimmetrie informative aumentando l’efficacia dell’eco-label, le imprese come fonte di vantaggio competitivo e i certificatori come sistema di riduzione dell’impatto ambientale. La ricerca multi-metodo condotta conferma un diffuso interesse dei consumatori verso la sostenibilità ambientale e l’intenzione di contribuire attivamente, tuttavia, sottolinea anche l’esistenza di numerosi malfunzionamenti della comunicazione sia da parte delle imprese che da parte degli enti certificatori. Spunti interessanti emergono sulle modalità attraverso cui i consumatori vorrebbero essere informati e sulle loro necessità informative circa le eco-label. Emerge chiaramente la necessità di investimenti di marketing da parte delle istituzioni e, per le imprese, la necessità di integrare l’eco-label nella visione strategica per valorizzarne il potenziale di vantaggio competitivo. / During the last two decades, the interest in environmentally-conscious production and consumption has been considerably increasing. In response to these environmental concerns, a growing number of third-party certified eco-labels has been developed. Through eco-labels companies can demonstrate their commitment in lowering the environmental impact of their products and processes. The aim of this thesis is to provide a better understanding of: 1) the communication mechanisms among issuer, firm and customer; 2) the nature of the main information gaps within this triangulation; 3) the areas of intervention as to reduce the information asymmetries and increase the effectiveness of eco-labels, in terms of competitive advantage for firms and increased beneficial effects on the environment for the issuers. The multi-method explorative research conducted confirms a wide interest towards sustainable consumption issues among consumers and their willingness to actively contribute; although it highlights numerous communication failures involving both firms and issuers. Interesting suggestions emerge about the consumers’ preferred ways to be informed on eco-labels and about their information needs. It also clearly emerges the need for marketing investment from the issuers, and the need of integrating the eco-label in the strategic vision for the firms in order to value its competitive advantage potential.

The aim of the thesis is an analysis of ADR among Czech consumers and consumer Czech and Czech dealer. ADR System Analysis is performed using a questionnaire survey among respondents - consumers and controlled depth interviews with the staff of ADR. Based on analysis of collected data will be provided suggestions for improvement.

Ao analisar o macroambiente no setor de moda, pode-se situar esta indústria em um cenário econômico de competição e de eliminação de fronteiras. Em razão da existência de um grande número de empresas de moda e ao intenso trabalho da mídia, o consumidor está em contato com diversas opções de produtos, preços e facilidades, tornando-se cada vez mais desafiador para uma empresa se destacar nesse mercado. O setor de moda tem como característica a necessidade de renovação e, portanto, o contínuo e cíclico desenvolvimento de produtos. Esta particularidade tem como consequência uma grande influência sobre a gestão, produção, logística e atratividade dos artigos no mercado, que, aliadas à obsolescência, intimamente ligadas às estações do ano, estabelecem para esses produtos um ciclo de vida relativamente curto. Os meios de comunicação tornam-se mecanismos fundamentais para a disseminação da moda, que se revela, na maior parte das vezes, em uma trajetória de uma única via, onde as informações são simplesmente transmitidas ou ditadas. Das transformações no cenário da tecnologia digital da comunicação, emergem novas formas de interação, as mídias sociais. Estas novas tecnologias têm tornado viável uma comunicação contínua entre pessoas e empresas por meio da Internet, que ao valorizar a interação, possibilita que grupos com objetivos comuns se encontrem e possam compartir suas visões e objetivos. Neste contexto, surge um novo modelo de participação colaborativa que pode vir a ser uma ferramenta útil às empresas no desenvolvimento de coleções de moda. Este modelo permitiria, através da comunicação de via dupla, a utilização de opiniões e feedbacks de seus consumidores-alvo para estreitar relações e aperfeiçoar estratégias de segmentação e posicionamento. Pretende-se com o presente trabalho elaborar um estudo sobre a utilização das mídias sociais nas etapas do processo de desenvolvimento de coleções de moda em três diferentes segmentos: a moda exclusiva, o varejo tradicional de moda e o fastfashion. Os resultados demonstraram que as empresas com características mais inovadoras utilizam as mídias sociais com a finalidade de aumentar a visibilidade e o alcance de suas marcas e produtos, apropriando-se de seu potencial de comunicação. Enquanto as que oferecem peças com maior apelo comercial e grande grau de aceitação procuram utiliza-las também com foco na interação, a fim de identificar os desejos vigentes dos consumidores e tentar inseri-los em suas coleções / Analyzing the macro fashion environment, one can situate this industry in economic scenery of competition and frontiers elimination. Due to the presence of a great number of fashion enterprises and the intense media work, the consumer is in contact with several products, prices and convenience options; making it more and more challenging for the enterprise standing out into that market. Fashion sector has, as a characteristic, the need of renewing, and, so, the continuous and cyclical development of products. This particularity has a relatively short life time, as consequence, a great influence on managing, production, logistics and attractiveness of the market article that, allied to the functional obsolescence, strictly linked to the seasons establish, to the products. Means of communication become fundamental mechanisms to fashion dissemination that reveals itself, most of the time, into one way trajectory. From changings in digital technology scenery of communication, there come up new interaction forms, the social media. These new technologies have made the continuous communication viable among people and enterprises by means of Internet, that valuing interaction makes it possible, for groups with common objectives, meeting and sharing their view and goals. Into this context, a new model of collaborative participation comes up, which can be able to aid enterprises, allowing the usage of opinions and feedbacks of their target-consumers, as developing close relations and improving the segmentation strategies and positioning through the double way communication, as being a useful tool to fashion collections development. It is intended, with the present work, to draw up a study on the usage of social media in the process steps of fashion collections development. The results have shown that the companies with the most innovative characteristics utilize social medias in order to grow the visibility and reach of its brands and products, appropriating their communication potential, while the ones that offer bigger commercial appeal parts and great acceptance degree look to utilize them also with interation focus, in order to identify the current consumers wishes and try to insert them into their collections

Les indications géographiques et les appellations d’origine sont des signes distinctifs ayant de fortes valeurs économiques, sociales et culturelles. Tout d’abord, ces dénominations constituent une importante source de revenus pour les producteurs ; ensuite, elles constituent une garantie de qualité pour les consommateurs; enfin,elles sont un outil de développement rural du pays d’origine ainsi que de protection de son patrimoine culinaire et culturel. Par conséquent, la protection juridique de ces dénominations est primordiale. À cet effet, le législateur communautaire a prescrit, dans le règlement européen n° 510/2006 relatif à la protection des indications géographiques et des appellations d’origine, les règles de forme et de fond relatives à la reconnaissance et la protection de ces dénominations de la manière la plus détaillée. Au Liban, le ministère de l’Économie et du Commerce a préparé un projet de loi sur la protection des dénominations géographiques largement inspiré du règlement européen. Dans ce contexte, les spécificités agricoles, sociales et économiques du pays devront être prises en considération par le législateur libanais.D’ailleurs, la réputation de cette catégorie de dénominations dépasse en principe les frontières nationales du pays d’origine. C’est ainsi que ces dénominations constituent aujourd’hui un enjeu crucial dans le cadre des négociations commerciales internationales surtout au niveau de l’Accord sur les Droits de la Propriété Intellectuelle qui touchent au Commerce (ADPIC), qui constitue l’accord de référence dans ce domaine. / Geographical indications and designations of origin are distinctive signs with high economic, social and cultural values. Firstly, these names are an important source of income for producers, then they are a quality guarantee for consumers, and finally, they are a tool for rural development of their country of origin and also of protection of its cultural and culinary heritage. Therefore, the legal protection of these names is paramount. To this end, the legislator of the European Union has prescribed, in the European Regulation n° 510/2006 on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin, formal and substantives rules on the recognition and the protection of these names with ample details. In Lebanon, the Ministry of Economy and Trade has prepared a draft law on the protection of geographical designations largely inspired by the European Regulation. In this context, the agricultural, social and economic characteristics of the country must be taken into account by the Lebanese legislator. Moreover, the reputation of this kind of designations exceeds in principle the national borders of the country of origin. Thus, these designations are now a critical issue in the context of international trade negotiations especially in terms of the agreement on Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) which is the reference in this domain.

La thèse propose de retracer l’histoire de l’utilisation et de l’encadrement des informations relatives à la qualité nutritionnelle des produits alimentaires circulant sur les marchés. Elle s’inscrit ainsi dans le cadre de la sociologie économique en s’intéressant plus particulièrement et dans une perspective historique à l’émergence de dispositifs visant à « équiper » le choix nutritionnel des consommateurs. Parmi ces dispositifs, l’étiquetage nutritionnel et les allégations nutritionnelles et de santé, correspondant, pour le premier, à la manifestation scripturale et réglementaire de la qualité nutritionnelle des produits agroalimentaires et, pour les secondes, à son utilisation marketing, sont au cœur de l’étude. Après avoir retracé les débuts de l’utilisation marketing de la dimension santé des aliments, à travers l’exemple des campagnes publicitaires de la fin du dix-neuvième siècle de la marque américaine d’avoine pour le petit déjeuner Quaker Oats, la thèse se concentre sur l’évolution des règlements encadrant à la fois étiquetage et marketing nutritionnels. Elle prend ainsi comme point de départ l’Amérique des années quarante pour arriver finalement à la situation européenne actuelle et opère donc un déplacement à la fois chronologique et géographique entre l’Amérique et l’Europe, en passant par l’Angleterre. Ce déplacement permet de mesurer les difficultés propres à la mesure nutritionnelle des aliments, à son expression et à sa mobilisation dans le cadre de stratégies aussi bien privées que publiques qui visent à orienter, persuader et équiper les individus dans leurs choix de vie et de consommation. L’étude montre en outre qu’au niveau européen, les notions de santé et de bonne alimentation, au-delà des avancées et controverses scientifiques en la matière, ont aussi des déclinaisons différentes selon les pays et les secteurs d’activités. Ainsi, en matière de réglementation des informations nutritionnelles marchandes, les pays du Nord tels que le Royaume-Uni ou les pays Nordiques ont depuis une vingtaine d’années au moins, intégré cette réglementation dans le cadre de politiques de santé publique plus globales, contrairement aux pays du Sud comme la France ou l’Italie. Ces différences se retrouvent ainsi au niveau européen, comme en témoigne le règlement européen n°1169/2011, voté en 2011. Ce règlement, bien qu’ayant rendu l’étiquetage nutritionnel obligatoire, est marqué par des incohérences et des faiblesses qui reflètent bien les difficultés propres à la « capture » des caractéristiques nutritionnelles des produits et à leur « mise en boîte ». / The question of the display of nutritional information on food products has been largely dealt with from an Anglo-Saxon perspective, especially in the United States; this study aims to examine the problem from a European perspective. Drawing upon the theoretical framework of economic sociology, this dissertation focuses on the social and historical factors surrounding the emergence of apparatus that aim to « equip » consumers’ nutritional choices. Among these devices, nutritional labeling and health and nutrition claims are central to the study. The former is the scriptural and regulatory description of nutritional quality and the latter, the expression of this quality in a marketing context. After an in depth consideration of early examples of the use of nutrition based rhetoric in marketing through the example of the Quaker Oats brand's advertising campaigns of the late nineteenth century, the dissertation studies the evolution of the rules and regulations on labeling and nutritional marketing. Mapping this historical trajectory means drawing a line from the United States in the 40s to the current situation in the European Union. This analysis thus operates a chronological and geographical movement from America to Europe via the United Kingdom. This movement sheds light on the specific difficulties attached to the nutritional measuring of food products, to its expression and to its use in private and public strategies aimed at guiding, persuading and equipping individuals faced with lifestyle and consumption choices. The study also shows how inside the European Union, the definition of notions such as good health and proper alimentation, as well as being informed by scientific knowledge and controversies, is also subjected to both geographical and socio-professional variations. For example, Northern European countries such as the United Kingdom or Scandinavia have been integrating the question of the regulation of nutritional information on food products into public health policies unlike southern countries such as France or Italy. These differences have an effect on European food labeling policy, as in the case of the European regulation n°1169/2011, voted in 2011. Although it does make nutrition labels compulsory on a majority of products, this ruling bares incoherencies and flaws that deeply reflect the problems linked to the “capturing” and “boxing” of food products' nutritional characteristics.

Background: Direct-to-consumer (DTC) genetic tests are tests sold directly to consumers, normally without the involvement of healthcare professionals, which aim to provide consumers with their relative genetic risk for various complex diseases. Providers claim that this information will enable and encourage consumers to improve their health behaviour in order to reduce their likelihood of contracting diseases for which they are at an increased genetic risk. However, there are many criticisms and concerns about DTC genetic tests in the literature. Two common concerns are the lack of positive effects, and possible negative effects, that the information generated by the tests may have on consumers health behaviour and health anxiety, and the identified poor quality of information provision on the websites of providers of DTC genetic tests. Although the literature contains some research in these areas it is noticeably limited and occasionally contradictory. Aim and Methods: The aim of the research was to investigate the informational aspects of direct-to-consumer genetic tests, including the provision of information by the companies, consumers information needs and information-seeking behaviour and the effect of the information generated by the tests on health behaviour and health anxiety. The research consisted of three studies: a survey of 275 consumers and potential consumers of DTC genetic tests, in-depth email interviews with 36 consumers of DTC genetic tests and a content analysis of the information provided on all identified providers websites. Results: Positive or neutral changes in health behaviour were identified in a large minority of respondents who had been exposed to genetic risk information, along with the mechanisms by which the information prompted or contributed to change. A minority reported a change in health anxiety, mainly but not exclusively a decrease, with mechanisms again identified. Consumers reported a wide variety of information needs, the most common of which were information to do with the coverage and accuracy of the tests. The provision of information on providers websites varied considerably, both between and within providers, but was generally poor. However, most consumers used other sources alongside these websites, the most common of which was blogs. Conclusions: The results suggest that concerns about possible negative effects of the information generated by the tests are unfounded and that a large minority of consumers have improved health behaviour and decreased health anxiety after purchase. The results also suggest that concern about information provision on providers websites is justified; although this is mitigated by consumers general use of other sources alongside the websites, it is likely that a substantial number of consumers do not have access to enough information to give fully informed consent to the test.

The study addresses the limited and fragmented approaches of consumer behaviour studies in the existing literature and a lack of comprehensive integrated theoretical models of online consumer behaviour. The aim of the study is to propose a conceptual integrated theoretical model for online consumer behaviour which suggests a deviation from the existing purchasing approaches to consumer behaviour - hence a move towards an understanding of consumer behaviour in terms of two new approaches, namely the web-based communication exposure and internal psychological behavioural processes approaches, is proposed. The study addresses two main research problems, namely that inadequate knowledge and information exist on online consumers’ behavioural processes, especially their internal psychological behavioural processes during their exposure to web-based communication messages and their progression through the complete web-based communication experience; and that there is no conceptual integrated theoretical model for online consumer behaviour in the literature. This study, firstly, allows for systematic theoretical exploration, description, interpretation and integration of existing literature and theory on offline and online consumer behaviour including the following: theoretical perspectives and approaches; determinants; decision making; consumer information processing and response; and theoretical foundations. This systematic theoretical exploration and description of consumer behaviour literature and theory commences with the contextualisation and proposal of a new definition, perspective and theoretical approaches to online consumer behaviour; the discussion and analysis of the theory of the determinants of consumer behaviour; the discussion and analysis of decision-making theory; the proposition of a new online information decision-making perspective and model; the discussion and analysis of consumer information-processing and response theory and models; the discussion and analysis of the theoretical foundations of consumer behaviour; and the identification of theoretical criteria for online consumer behaviour. Declaration – acknowledgements - abstract Secondly, the study develops a conceptual integrated theoretical model for online consumer behaviour, thereby theoretically grounding online consumer behavioural processes in the context of internal psychological behavioural processes and exposure to web-based communication messages. It is hence posited that the study provides a more precise understanding of online consumers’ complicated internal cognitive and psychological behavioural processes in their interactive search for and experience of online web-based communication and information, which can be seen as a major contribution to the field of study. / Communication Science / D. Litt. et Phil. (Communication)

The study addresses the limited and fragmented approaches of consumer behaviour studies in the existing literature and a lack of comprehensive integrated theoretical models of online consumer behaviour. The aim of the study is to propose a conceptual integrated theoretical model for online consumer behaviour which suggests a deviation from the existing purchasing approaches to consumer behaviour - hence a move towards an understanding of consumer behaviour in terms of two new approaches, namely the web-based communication exposure and internal psychological behavioural processes approaches, is proposed. The study addresses two main research problems, namely that inadequate knowledge and information exist on online consumers’ behavioural processes, especially their internal psychological behavioural processes during their exposure to web-based communication messages and their progression through the complete web-based communication experience; and that there is no conceptual integrated theoretical model for online consumer behaviour in the literature. This study, firstly, allows for systematic theoretical exploration, description, interpretation and integration of existing literature and theory on offline and online consumer behaviour including the following: theoretical perspectives and approaches; determinants; decision making; consumer information processing and response; and theoretical foundations. This systematic theoretical exploration and description of consumer behaviour literature and theory commences with the contextualisation and proposal of a new definition, perspective and theoretical approaches to online consumer behaviour; the discussion and analysis of the theory of the determinants of consumer behaviour; the discussion and analysis of decision-making theory; the proposition of a new online information decision-making perspective and model; the discussion and analysis of consumer information-processing and response theory and models; the discussion and analysis of the theoretical foundations of consumer behaviour; and the identification of theoretical criteria for online consumer behaviour. Declaration – acknowledgements - abstract Secondly, the study develops a conceptual integrated theoretical model for online consumer behaviour, thereby theoretically grounding online consumer behavioural processes in the context of internal psychological behavioural processes and exposure to web-based communication messages. It is hence posited that the study provides a more precise understanding of online consumers’ complicated internal cognitive and psychological behavioural processes in their interactive search for and experience of online web-based communication and information, which can be seen as a major contribution to the field of study. / Communication Science / D. Litt. et Phil. (Communication)