A dissertation submitted to the Faculty of Humanities, University of Witwatersrand, Johannesburg, in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Masters of Arts in Fine Art by Dissertation. Johannesburg 2016 / Colour has always played an important role in South Africa; from the beginning of colonialism when “Africans” were converted to Christianity and baptised in white robes, to the bright colourful church garments that flood Soweto on Sundays. In the nineteenth century “Africans” began to reimagine their faith and spiritually. Seeking independence and a sense of identity, they began to fuse Western Christian ideologies with “African” spiritual beliefs and attire, which led to the origin of African Independent Churches (AIC). I aim to demonstrate how colour was not only used as a break away from colonial influences, but was also used to portray African spiritual beliefs and to create a distinctive “African” religious identity. This paper aims to study colour usage and it’s meaning within the South African context in order to show how colour use within Apostolic and Zionist movements relates to traditional African spirituality. The paper aims to show how colours used within both movements are symbolic and are thus used as spiritual codes. The paper will look at contemporary colours in order to show how Apostolic and Zionist movements continue to use colour to shape their spiritual identity.

鄺慧瑜. / "2004年6月". / 論文(哲學碩士)--香港中文大學, 2004. / 參考文獻 (leaves 19-23). / 附中英文摘要. / "2004 nian 6 yue". / Guang Huiyu. / Lun wen (zhe xue shuo shi)--Xianggang Xhong wen da xue, 2004. / Can kao wen xian (leaves 19-23). / Fu Zhong Ying wen zhai yao. / 論文撮要(中文） --- p.i / 論文撮要(英文） --- p.ii-iii / 圖表目錄 --- p.iv / 引言 --- p.1-2 / Chapter 第一章. --- 時裝歷史文獻回顧 / Chapter 1.1. --- 香港時裝歷史與文化硏究文獻回顧 --- p.3 / Chapter 1.1.1. --- 香港時裝歷史 --- p.3 / Chapter 1.1.2. --- 香港時裝文化硏究 --- p.4-7 / Chapter 1.2. --- 旗袍硏究文獻回顧 --- p.8-9 / Chapter 第二章. --- 硏究方法的論述 / Chapter 2.1. --- 硏究資料來源 --- p.10-11 / Chapter 2.1.1. --- 報紙 --- p.11-13 / Chapter 2.1.2. --- 電影雜誌 --- p.13-15 / Chapter 2.1.3. --- 電影 --- p.15-16 / Chapter 2.2. --- 硏究方法的槪述 --- p.17 / Chapter 第三章. --- 時裝理論剖析 / Chapter 3.1. --- 時裝定義 --- p.19-21 / Chapter 3.2. --- 時裝與社會硏究 --- p.21 / Chapter 3.2.1. --- 韋伯倫 --- p.22-23 / Chapter 3.2.2. --- 西美爾 --- p.24-25 / Chapter 3.3. --- 時裝與文化硏究 / Chapter 3.3.1. --- 時裝與符號 --- p.26-29 / Chapter 3.3.2. --- 時裝與流行商品文化 --- p.29-30 / Chapter 3.3.3. --- 時裝與性別 --- p.30 / Chapter 3.3.4. --- 其他理論 --- p.31-34 / Chapter 3.4. --- 中國與時裝 --- p.34 / Chapter 第四章. --- 戰前旗袍的歷史與變革 / Chapter 4.1. --- 旗袍之名稱 --- p.35 / Chapter 4.2. --- 清代婦女 --- p.36 / Chapter 4.2.1. --- 清初 --- p.36 / Chapter 4.2.2. --- 清中至末 --- p.37 / Chapter 4.3. --- 1920 年代 --- p.38 / Chapter 4.3.1. --- 女性時裝之一：襖衫/裙 --- p.38-39 / Chapter 4.3.2. --- 女性時裝之二 ：旗袍 --- p.40-44 / Chapter 4.3.3. --- 男裝 --- p.45 / Chapter 4.4. --- 1930年代 --- p.46 / Chapter 4.4.1. --- 女裝 --- p.46-47 / Chapter 4.4.2. --- 男裝 --- p.47 / Chapter 4.5. --- 1940年代至戰時 --- p.47-48 / Chapter 第五章. --- 戰前及四十年代的香港時裝 --- p.49-52 / Chapter 第六章. --- 五十年代的香港時裝 / Chapter 6.1. --- 男性時裝 --- p.53-56 / Chapter 6.2. --- 女性時裝 --- p.57 / Chapter 6.2.1. --- 旗袍 --- p.57-62 / Chapter 6.2.2. --- 西裙 --- p.62-64 / Chapter 第七章. --- 六十年代的香港時裝 / Chapter 7.1. --- 男性時裝 --- p.67 / Chapter 7.1.1. --- 西裝 --- p.68-69 / Chapter 7.2. --- 女性時裝 --- p.70 / Chapter 7.2.1. --- 旗袍 --- p.70-73 / Chapter 7.2.2. --- 西裙 --- p.74-76 / Chapter 7.2.3. --- 迷你裙 --- p.76-80 / Chapter 7.3. --- 香港時裝節 --- p.81-83 / Chapter 第八章. --- 七十年代及以後的香港時裝 / Chapter 8.1. --- 成衣的年代 --- p.84-85 / Chapter 8.2. --- 業界的發展 --- p.85-87 / Chapter 第九章. --- 香港時裝與旗袍´ؤ´ؤ旗袍的社會價値、文化轉變與象徵意義的論述 / Chapter 9.1. --- 旗袍的社會價値 --- p.88 / Chapter 9.1.1. --- 社會價値之建構 --- p.88 / Chapter 9.1.2. --- 旗袍之身份建構與表述 --- p.89-94 / Chapter 9.2. --- 文化轉變 --- p.95 / Chapter 9.2.1. --- 時裝文化的轉借與吸納 --- p.95-96 / Chapter 9.2.2. --- 混雜的時裝文化 --- p.96-99 / Chapter 9.2.3. --- 旗袍文化的對外影響 --- p.100-101 / Chapter 9.3. --- 消費品與象徵意義 --- p.102-103 / Chapter 9.3.1. --- 中國人的身份 --- p.103-106 / Chapter 9.3.2. --- 年齢的身份 --- p.107-110 / Chapter 第十章. --- 總結 / Chapter 10.1. --- 香港時裝歷史 --- p.111-112 / Chapter 10.2. --- 時裝潮流的變化理由 --- p.113-116 / 附錄： / 圖片說明目錄 附錄 --- p.1-4 / 圖片附錄 --- p.5-18 / 參考書目 附錄 --- p.19-23

The increasing popularity of catalog shopping has prompted many retailers to enter the market. Consequently, competition among catalog retailers has escalated. To maintain or expand their customer bases, catalog retailers must now find better ways to serve consumers. Many consumers are apprehensive to shop for apparel via catalog because they associate a higher degree of risk with purchases made through catalogs as opposed to purchases made in a store. Such risk is associated with consumers' uncertainty of purchase outcomes. While in a store, consumers may physically inspect garments before making a purchase decision. However, when shopping via catalog, consumers must rely upon pictures and written descriptions to evaluate garments' color, style, fit, and overall appearance. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate ways that information within Norm Thompson catalog apparel descriptions can be presented in order to increase the perceived ability to evaluate specific garment characteristics and to decrease the amount of perceived risk associated with catalog apparel purchases by a sample of women in Oregon. The research project proceeded in two phases: focus groups and an experiment. In the first phase, focus groups were conducted in which female participants evaluated written word descriptions of four apparel items within a Norm Thompson catalog: pants, jacket, blouse, and turtleneck. The first objective of the focus group sessions was to identify what information within the catalog was important to a sample of female consumers. The second objective was to identify what important information was unclear to the sample and to investigate ways to clarify such information. Three focus groups were conducted with a total of seventeen female participants. The information most important to them when making catalog apparel purchase decisions included garment sizing and fit, color, fabric and fiber content, style and detail, country of origin, and laundering instructions. Based upon the focus group participants' suggestions, the researcher altered the garment descriptions to better communicate the information important to the participants. The pant and blouse descriptions were altered to include more specific fabric and fiber content information. The jacket and turtleneck descriptions were altered to include more specific sizing and fit information. The original and altered descriptions were used in the experiment phase. The experiment was a between subjects, repeated measures design with two independent variables: the type of description, original or altered, that subjects were exposed to and whether or not subjects were exposed to a Norm Thompson catalog cover page. Four different catalog formats resulted. Women from a sorority alumnae mailing list were randomly assigned to the four treatment groups. All four catalog formats were accompanied by a rating scale that measured subjects' perceived ability to evaluate specific garment characteristics, such as garment fabric and fiber content and garment sizing and fit, and the degree of risk subjects associated with the purchase of each of the four garments described within the simulated catalog. The third and fourth objectives of the study were addressed in the experiment phase of the study. The third objective was to determine if a sample of female consumers' perceived ability to evaluate specific characteristics of a garment, such as fabric and fiber content or sizing and fit, was a function of the type of written description to which they were exposed. As hypothesized, subjects who were exposed to the altered pant and the altered blouse descriptions perceived greater ability to evaluate the fabric and fiber content of the pants and the blouse. However, contrary to what was hypothesized, subjects exposed to the altered jacket and turtleneck descriptions did not perceive greater ability to evaluate the sizing and fit of the jacket and turtleneck. The fourth objective was to determine if a sample of female consumers' perceived risk regarding the purchase of the catalog apparel items under investigation was a function of the type of description to which they were exposed and whether or not they were exposed to a Norm Thompson catalog cover page, with perceived risk less for subjects exposed to the altered descriptions and less for subjects exposed to the Norm Thompson catalog cover page. None of the four hypotheses pertaining to the fourth objective were supported. Subjects exposed to the altered pant, jacket, blouse, and turtleneck descriptions did not perceive a lesser degree of risk than subjects exposed to the original descriptions. Furthermore, subjects exposed to the Norm Thompson catalog cover page did not perceive a lesser degree of risk than subjects not exposed to the Norm Thompson catalog cover page. Experiment results did not support data from the focus groups phase and data from past research. A focus group methodology, as opposed to an experiment, seemed to attain the most valuable data. It is advisable that in the future, focus groups be conducted to identify ways to better communicate garment information about sizing and fit, fabric and fiber content, style and detail, and color. Furthermore, catalog apparel retailers may use the information extracted in the focus groups phase of the present study to better understand the information needs of female consumers and to improve their catalog layouts. / Graduation date: 1997

Thesis (M.S.)--Utah State University, 2004. / Includes bibliographical references.

This study highlights a number of different aspects regarding uniforms and dress codes in the United Kingdom (UK) and Sweden. The study comprises three parts: a quantitative comparison of GCSE pass rates for schools in the UK that do and do not have school uniforms, a qualitative survey study of Scottish High School pupils' perceptions about their uniform and a qualitative interview study of Swedish teachers, administrators and pupils about their school dress, rules regarding school dress and school uniforms. Regarding whether uniforms improved academic results by comparing GCSE pass rates in the UK we were unable to find conclusive evidence to suggest that schools which had uniform policies performed significantly better than other schools. Regarding Scottish pupils’ perceptions of their uniforms, pupils from lower-educated backgrounds were more likely to perceive that they were told off by teachers about not wearing the correct dress. When asked whether pupils felt more equal compared to their peers, those from lower-educated background were more likely to think that uniforms do not help to level out class difference compared to pupils from better educated backgrounds. Regarding bullying, even though uniforms existed at the school studied bullying due to what pupils wore to school still existed and pupils perceived that bullying due to other factors such as physical appearance also occurred. Regarding the results from interviews with teachers and administrators in the Swedish town studied, most teachers took a fairly relaxed attitude towards pupils’ dress although the dress code of not wearing outdoor clothes in High Schools was policed quite strongly. Teachers saw the issue of female pupils dressing overtly sexually as the biggest problem and this was dealt with on an individual level rather than a class level. High school pupils’ opinions of their dress code varied. Some hated the school rule that they were not allowed to wear outdoor clothes, whereas for others it was not seen as a big deal. A number of pupils thought that what you wore in class does not affect their learning outcomes. Very few pupils thought that introducing a uniform would be a good idea. Pupils at Sixth Form College had a more mature attitude towards their dress and were able to reflect back on their experiences from High School. They did not think that the issue of dress was a major issue in Sixth Form College however this did vary slightly between the three schools studied. Pupils at two of the schools perceived the dress code of the third school as being more formal, but this was due mainly to prejudice according to a number of pupils. The large majority of Sixth Form College students thought that introducing school uniform would be a bad idea and that bullying would not be eradicated because pupils can always pick on other attributes, not just clothing. However there were a couple of Sixth Form College that thought that introducing it would be a good way to reduce peer-pressure to buy the right clothes in High School.

<p>This study highlights a number of different aspects regarding uniforms and dress codes in the United Kingdom (UK) and Sweden. The study comprises three parts: a quantitative comparison of GCSE pass rates for schools in the UK that do and do not have school uniforms, a qualitative survey study of Scottish High School pupils' perceptions about their uniform and a qualitative interview study of Swedish teachers, administrators and pupils about their school dress, rules regarding school dress and school uniforms.</p><p>Regarding whether uniforms improved academic results by comparing GCSE pass rates in the UK we were unable to find conclusive evidence to suggest that schools which had uniform policies performed significantly better than other schools.</p><p>Regarding Scottish pupils’ perceptions of their uniforms, pupils from lower-educated backgrounds were more likely to perceive that they were told off by teachers about not wearing the correct dress. When asked whether pupils felt more equal compared to their peers, those from lower-educated background were more likely to think that uniforms do not help to level out class difference compared to pupils from better educated backgrounds. Regarding bullying, even though uniforms existed at the school studied bullying due to what pupils wore to school still existed and pupils perceived that bullying due to other factors such as physical appearance also occurred.</p><p>Regarding the results from interviews with teachers and administrators in the Swedish town studied, most teachers took a fairly relaxed attitude towards pupils’ dress although the dress code of not wearing outdoor clothes in High Schools was policed quite strongly. Teachers saw the issue of female pupils dressing overtly sexually as the biggest problem and this was dealt with on an individual level rather than a class level.</p><p>High school pupils’ opinions of their dress code varied. Some hated the school rule that they were not allowed to wear outdoor clothes, whereas for others it was not seen as a big deal. A number of pupils thought that what you wore in class does not affect their learning outcomes. Very few pupils thought that introducing a uniform would be a good idea. Pupils at Sixth Form College had a more mature attitude towards their dress and were able to reflect back on their experiences from High School. They did not think that the issue of dress was a major issue in Sixth Form College however this did vary slightly between the three schools studied. Pupils at two of the schools perceived the dress code of the third school as being more formal, but this was due mainly to prejudice according to a number of pupils. The large majority of Sixth Form College students thought that introducing school uniform would be a bad idea and that bullying would not be eradicated because pupils can always pick on other attributes, not just clothing. However there were a couple of Sixth Form College that thought that introducing it would be a good way to reduce peer-pressure to buy the right clothes in High School.</p><p> </p>

Clothing, together with other bodily adornments, is a valuable tool for communicating loyalty, identity and status. The coded messages inherent in the interplay between garments, bodies and society play a fundamental role in political culture, and the early modern era was no exception. The example of Mary I of England and her wardrobe choices demonstrates precisely how useful this tool could be. Through examination of previously-unpublished warrants, information from Privy Purse records, contemporary accounts and portraiture, this thesis analyzes the contents of and changes in Mary I’s wardrobe through the course of her adult life. By examining what the queen wore and when, patterns emerge that correlate with important parts of her political strategies. The first queen regnant, Mary used her wardrobe as a vital tool in the construction of her identity and self-representation, and as a means of navigating through the political and domestic upheavals that threatened her authority. / A work discussing Mary Tudor (Mary I)'s use of clothing as a political tool in mid-sixteenth century England. Includes transcriptions of warrants from the wardrobe of the robes from 1547, 1557, 1558.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--State University of New York at Binghamton, Department of History, 2008. / Includes bibliographical references.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Florida State University, 2006. / Advisor: Jeanne Heitmeyer, Florida State University, College of Human Sciences, Dept. of Textiles and Consumer Sciences. Title and description from dissertation home page (viewed June 14, 2006). Document formatted into pages; contains viii, 122 pages. Includes bibliographical references.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Ohio State University, 2007. / Full text release at OhioLINK's ETD Center delayed at author's request