Máscaras faciais são preparações cosméticas utilizadas desde a Antigüidade e, atualmente, têm seu uso difundido em função de suas características multifuncionais. Dentre os efeitos atribuídos a estas preparações, temos: limpeza profunda; ações tonificante, adstringente, hidratante e tensora na pele e sensação de bem-estar. Podem ser classificadas conforme sua aplicação, componentes ou grau de risco. As máscaras peel off à base de álcool polivinílico são formulações que, após a aplicação e secagem, formam um filme oclusivo sobre a face e, após sua remoção, conferem maciez, limpeza e ação tensora à pele, retirando células mortas do estrato córneo, resíduos e outros materiais depositados. O extrato de soja obtido pela fermentação do leite de soja pelo Bifidobacterium animale possui açúcares, aminoácidos, peptídeos, proteínas e alto teor de isoflavonas na forma livre, quando comparado ao leite não fermentado. Seu uso em formulações cosméticas visa combater os efeitos do envelhecimento cutâneo, propiciando hidratação, efeito tensor e emoliência à pele. Bases cosméticas de máscaras faciais peel off e emulsão óleo em água, acrescidas ou não de extrato de soja fermentado 5% p/p foram avaliadas em estudos de estabilidade física e físico-química em diversas condições de temperatura e períodos de avaliação, visando obter as de melhor desempenho para estudos clínicos. Os resultados indicaram que as preparações aditivadas com o extrato mantiveram-se estáveis quanto às suas características nos testes de estabilidade, não apresentando variações significativas. As preparações foram submetidas aos estudos clínicos em voluntários com o objetivo de avaliar seus efeitos tensor, na hidratação e na perda de água transepidérmica. Os resultados comprovaram que, em um estudo cinético, a base cosmética de máscara facial peel off , contendo ou não o extrato de soja fermentado, não apresentou diferença estatisticamente significativa para as formulações de emulsão quantos à promoção de elasticidade e firmeza à pele e diminuição da perda de água transepidérmica, mas promoveu maior hidratação das camadas superficiais da pele que as preparações de emulsão óleo em água. / Facial masks are used since antiquity and, currently, its use has spread according to their multifunctional characteristics. Among the effects attributed to these preparations there are deep cleaning; invigorating, stringent, moisturizing and tensor actions and well-being sense. They can be classified according to their application, components or risk degree. Peel off facial masks based on polyvinyl alcohol are formulations that form a film on the face after application and drying. After their removal, they cause tenderness, cleaning and tensor action on the skin, removing dead cells of the stratum corneum other materials deposited. Soybean extract obtained from soymilk fermentation by Bifidobacterium animale has sugars, amino acids, peptides, proteins and high levels of free isoflavones, when compared to nonfermented milk. Its use in cosmetic formulations aims to avoid aging effects on skin, providing moisturizing, softness and tensor effect. Peel off facial masks and emulsions oil in water preparations, containing or not fermented soymilk 5% w/w were evaluated in physical and physical-chemistry stability studies in various temperature and time conditions, targeting the best formulations for clinical tests. Results indicated that preparations containing extract remained stable about their characteristics, showed no significant variations. Preparations were submitted to clinical studies in volunteers to evaluate tensor, moisturizing and transepidermal water loss effects. In a short-term study, results confirmed that peel off facial masks formulations, containing or not soybean fermented extract, showed no statistically significant difference in comparison to emulsion formulations on elasticity and firmness promotion and decreasing on transepidermal water loss. However, peel off facial masks provided greater hydration on skin surface layers than the oil in water emulsion preparations.

Máscaras faciais são preparações cosméticas utilizadas desde a Antigüidade e, atualmente, têm seu uso difundido em função de suas características multifuncionais. Dentre os efeitos atribuídos a estas preparações, temos: limpeza profunda; ações tonificante, adstringente, hidratante e tensora na pele e sensação de bem-estar. Podem ser classificadas conforme sua aplicação, componentes ou grau de risco. As máscaras peel off à base de álcool polivinílico são formulações que, após a aplicação e secagem, formam um filme oclusivo sobre a face e, após sua remoção, conferem maciez, limpeza e ação tensora à pele, retirando células mortas do estrato córneo, resíduos e outros materiais depositados. O extrato de soja obtido pela fermentação do leite de soja pelo Bifidobacterium animale possui açúcares, aminoácidos, peptídeos, proteínas e alto teor de isoflavonas na forma livre, quando comparado ao leite não fermentado. Seu uso em formulações cosméticas visa combater os efeitos do envelhecimento cutâneo, propiciando hidratação, efeito tensor e emoliência à pele. Bases cosméticas de máscaras faciais peel off e emulsão óleo em água, acrescidas ou não de extrato de soja fermentado 5% p/p foram avaliadas em estudos de estabilidade física e físico-química em diversas condições de temperatura e períodos de avaliação, visando obter as de melhor desempenho para estudos clínicos. Os resultados indicaram que as preparações aditivadas com o extrato mantiveram-se estáveis quanto às suas características nos testes de estabilidade, não apresentando variações significativas. As preparações foram submetidas aos estudos clínicos em voluntários com o objetivo de avaliar seus efeitos tensor, na hidratação e na perda de água transepidérmica. Os resultados comprovaram que, em um estudo cinético, a base cosmética de máscara facial peel off , contendo ou não o extrato de soja fermentado, não apresentou diferença estatisticamente significativa para as formulações de emulsão quantos à promoção de elasticidade e firmeza à pele e diminuição da perda de água transepidérmica, mas promoveu maior hidratação das camadas superficiais da pele que as preparações de emulsão óleo em água. / Facial masks are used since antiquity and, currently, its use has spread according to their multifunctional characteristics. Among the effects attributed to these preparations there are deep cleaning; invigorating, stringent, moisturizing and tensor actions and well-being sense. They can be classified according to their application, components or risk degree. Peel off facial masks based on polyvinyl alcohol are formulations that form a film on the face after application and drying. After their removal, they cause tenderness, cleaning and tensor action on the skin, removing dead cells of the stratum corneum other materials deposited. Soybean extract obtained from soymilk fermentation by Bifidobacterium animale has sugars, amino acids, peptides, proteins and high levels of free isoflavones, when compared to nonfermented milk. Its use in cosmetic formulations aims to avoid aging effects on skin, providing moisturizing, softness and tensor effect. Peel off facial masks and emulsions oil in water preparations, containing or not fermented soymilk 5% w/w were evaluated in physical and physical-chemistry stability studies in various temperature and time conditions, targeting the best formulations for clinical tests. Results indicated that preparations containing extract remained stable about their characteristics, showed no significant variations. Preparations were submitted to clinical studies in volunteers to evaluate tensor, moisturizing and transepidermal water loss effects. In a short-term study, results confirmed that peel off facial masks formulations, containing or not soybean fermented extract, showed no statistically significant difference in comparison to emulsion formulations on elasticity and firmness promotion and decreasing on transepidermal water loss. However, peel off facial masks provided greater hydration on skin surface layers than the oil in water emulsion preparations.

En el presente trabajo de investigación se analiza la viabilidad de la elaboración y comercialización de mascarillas en crema faciales elaboradas con insumos naturales y orgánicos, envasadas y empaquetadas con productos sostenibles en el medio ambiente bajo la marca Sumaq Skin Care. El presente trabajo, además, cuenta con cuatro capítulos de suma importancia para el correcto análisis. El primero, titulado ‘‘Fundamentos Iniciales’’, incluye el proceso de ideación del modelo de negocio para Sumaq Skin Care. El segundo, titulado ‘‘Validación del Modelo de Negocio’’, incluye el planteamiento del problema a resolver, la segmentación y la solución del problema del presente trabajo debidamente sustentado con experimentos. El tercero, titulado ‘‘Desarrollo del Plan de Negocio’’, incluye el plan estratégico, el plan de operaciones, el plan de recursos humanos, el plan de marketing, el plan de responsabilidad social empresarial y el plan financiero. El cuarto y último capítulo, titulado ‘‘Conclusiones’’, incluye lo evidenciado en el presente trabajo de investigación, los hallazgos más resaltantes y las recomendaciones académicas. / The aim of the following academic investigation is to analyze the viability of the elaboration and commercialization of cream face masks elaborated with natural and organic products with sustainable packaging that won’t harm the environment. This business model has been named Sumaq Skin Care and it bases its sales through the platform created in a web page and the social media Facebook and Instagram. This academic investigation has four important chapters to obtain the correct analysis of the business model. The first, under the title ‘‘Initial basis’’, includes the process to develop the idea of the business model. The second, under the title ‘‘Validation of the Business Model’’, includes the initial problem to solve, the segmentation and the solution to the initial problem. The third, under the title ‘‘Develop of the Business Model’’, includes the strategic plan, the operational plan, the human resources plan, the marketing plan, the corporate social responsibility plan and the financial plan. The fourth and last chapter, under the title ‘‘Conclusions’’, includes the results of the following academic investigation, the most important findings and the academic recommendations. / Trabajo de investigación

En el presente trabajo, se ejecutó un plan de negocios de mascarillas faciales a base de arcillas cosméticas y agar agar, creado por cinco estudiantes de la facultad de Negocios de la Universidad Peruana de Ciencias Aplicadas (UPC). El proyecto se desarrolló en base a la necesidad que tienen las mujeres en encontrar productos cosméticos con ingredientes naturales que no contengan productos químicos que puedan dañar su piel y que sean amigables con el medio ambiente. Al analizar el mercado de belleza, pudimos apreciar que el crecimiento de este sector es constante y la tendencia a consumir productos de belleza naturales está en proceso de crecimiento. Luego de evaluar las necesidades y requerimientos de nuestro público objetivo, desarrollamos las fórmulas de las tres versiones de mascarillas, usando insumos naturales que cumplen diferentes funciones como purificar, regenerar y limpiar profundamente la piel. El objetivo de este proyecto es poder comercializarlas. Al finalizar nuestro proyecto de ventas, se analizaron los diferentes planes presupuestales del área de RRHH, de operaciones, marketing y de Responsabilidad Social Corporativa, para tener una proyección, en términos monetarios, de lo que necesitamos para llevar a cabo nuestra idea de negocio. Con ello, seremos capaces de saber si es aceptable invertir en él o en todo caso, aprender y crear nuevas ideas de negocio. Los objetivos planteados en este proyecto han sido alcanzados a plenitud, como también los datos encontrados facilitaron el logro de estos. / In the present work, a business plan for facial masks based on clays and agar agar was executed, created by five students from the Business School of the Peruvian University of Applied Sciences (UPC). The project was developed based on the need for women to find cosmetic products with natural ingredients that do not contain chemicals that can damage their skin and that are friendly to the environment. When analysing the beauty market, we could see that the growth of this sector is constant and the trend to consume natural beauty products is growing. After evaluating the needs of our target audience, we developed the formulas for the three versions of masks, using natural inputs that fulfil different functions such as purifying, regenerating and deeply cleansing the skin. The objective of this project is to be able to commercialize them. At the end of our sales project, the different budget plans for the HR, operations, marketing and Corporate Social Responsibility areas will be analysed to have a projection of what we need to carry out our business idea. In addition, to better examine our model, the total project was evaluated to see if it would generate value and if it is profitable. With this, we will be able to know if it is acceptable to invest in it or in any case, learn and create new business ideas. Therefore, the objectives set out in this project have been fully achieved, as well as the data found facilitated their achievement. / Trabajo de investigación

Le traitement de première ligne de l’apnée obstructive du sommeil est l’appareil à pression positive, soit le CPAP, qui est le plus souvent utilisé avec un masque nasal. Certains patients, incapables de tolérer le masque nasal, doivent se tourner vers le masque facial, qui peut parfois requérir une pression supérieure à celle utilisée avec le masque nasal pour éliminer tous les événements respiratoires. Nous supposons que l’ajustement serré du masque facial, dans le but de réduire les fuites, entraîne une pression de recul sur la mandibule; ceci diminuerait le calibre des voies aériennes supérieures, nécessitant donc une pression effective thérapeutique supérieure pour rétablir un passage de l’air. Nos objectifs étaient : 1) de démontrer s’il y avait une différence de pression effective entre le masque nasal et le masque facial, 2) de quantifier la fuite entre les deux masques, 3) d’évaluer l’effet d’une orthèse de rétention mandibulaire neutre (OMN), qui empêche le recul mandibulaire, sur la pression effective des deux masques et 4) d’évaluer s’il existait un lien entre la céphalométrie et les réponses variables des individus. Méthodologie : Lors de cette étude expérimentale croisée, huit sujets (2 femmes, 6 hommes) avec une moyenne d’âge de 56,3ans [33ans-65ans] ont reçu un examen orthodontique complet incluant une radiographie céphalométrique latérale. Ils ont ensuite passé deux nuits de polysomnographie au laboratoire du sommeil en protocole « split-night » où les deux masques ont été portés, seuls, la première nuit, et avec l’OMN, la deuxième nuit. Résultats : Nous avons trouvé que la pression effective thérapeutique était supérieure avec le masque facial comparativement au masque nasal de manière statistiquement significative. Nous avons observé une fuite supérieure avec le masque nasal, ce qui permet de dire que la fuite n’explique probablement pas cette différence de pression entre les deux masques. L’OMN n’a pas donné d’effet statistiquement significatif lorsque combinée au masque nasal, mais il aurait probablement été possible de trouver un effet positif avec le masque facial si le Bi-PAP avait été inclus dans le protocole de recherche. Conclusion : Nos résultats ne permettent pas de confirmer le rôle du recul mandibulaire, causé par la force exercée avec le masque facial, dans l’obtention de pressions supérieures avec ce masque, mais nous ne pouvons toutefois pas éliminer l’hypothèse. Les résultats suggèrent également que ce phénomène est peut-être plus fréquent qu’on ne le croit et qu’il pourrait y avoir un lien avec certains facteurs anatomiques individuels. / The first line of treatment for obstructive sleep apnea is continuous positive airway pressure or CPAP used via a nasal mask. Some patients, unable to tolerate the nasal mask, have to turn to the facial mask, which sometimes requires a superior level of pressure to eliminate all the respiratory events. We believe that the force applied on the chin from a tight adjustment of the facial mask may retrude the mandible and diminish the upper airway caliber. Our objectives for this study were to: 1) demonstrate that a difference of effective therapeutic pressure between the nasal and facial masks does exist, 2) quantify the leaks associated with each mask, 3) evaluate the effect of a neutral mandibular appliance (NMA), that prevents the retrusion of the mandible, on the effective pressure of both masks and 4) evaluate if a link between the cephalometric values and varied individual responses to both masks exists. Methods: Eight subjects (2 females, 6 males) mean age 56.3 years (33-65y) participated in the cross-over design pilot study. All subjects underwent a complete orthodontic examination including lateral cephalometric radiograph before spending two nights in a sleep laboratory for a polysomnography in split-night protocol, where both mask were worn alone on the first night and with the NMA on the second night. Results: We found that the therapeutic effective pressure was higher with the facial mask compared to the nasal mask, and this difference was statistically significant. The leak was more elevated with the nasal mask, thus eliminating this factor as a probable cause of the higher pressure with the facial mask. The NMA did not have any statistically significant effect on both masks; however a possible positive effect might be seen if the Bi-level PAP was included in the protocol. Conclusion: Our results cannot confirm the role of the retrusion of the mandible, caused by the force applied by the facial mask, in the necessity of a superior level of pressure with that mask, but we cannot eliminate that possibility either. Our results suggest that this phenomenon is more frequent that we may think and that a link with some anatomical factors may exist.

Le traitement de première ligne de l’apnée obstructive du sommeil est l’appareil à pression positive, soit le CPAP, qui est le plus souvent utilisé avec un masque nasal. Certains patients, incapables de tolérer le masque nasal, doivent se tourner vers le masque facial, qui peut parfois requérir une pression supérieure à celle utilisée avec le masque nasal pour éliminer tous les événements respiratoires. Nous supposons que l’ajustement serré du masque facial, dans le but de réduire les fuites, entraîne une pression de recul sur la mandibule; ceci diminuerait le calibre des voies aériennes supérieures, nécessitant donc une pression effective thérapeutique supérieure pour rétablir un passage de l’air. Nos objectifs étaient : 1) de démontrer s’il y avait une différence de pression effective entre le masque nasal et le masque facial, 2) de quantifier la fuite entre les deux masques, 3) d’évaluer l’effet d’une orthèse de rétention mandibulaire neutre (OMN), qui empêche le recul mandibulaire, sur la pression effective des deux masques et 4) d’évaluer s’il existait un lien entre la céphalométrie et les réponses variables des individus. Méthodologie : Lors de cette étude expérimentale croisée, huit sujets (2 femmes, 6 hommes) avec une moyenne d’âge de 56,3ans [33ans-65ans] ont reçu un examen orthodontique complet incluant une radiographie céphalométrique latérale. Ils ont ensuite passé deux nuits de polysomnographie au laboratoire du sommeil en protocole « split-night » où les deux masques ont été portés, seuls, la première nuit, et avec l’OMN, la deuxième nuit. Résultats : Nous avons trouvé que la pression effective thérapeutique était supérieure avec le masque facial comparativement au masque nasal de manière statistiquement significative. Nous avons observé une fuite supérieure avec le masque nasal, ce qui permet de dire que la fuite n’explique probablement pas cette différence de pression entre les deux masques. L’OMN n’a pas donné d’effet statistiquement significatif lorsque combinée au masque nasal, mais il aurait probablement été possible de trouver un effet positif avec le masque facial si le Bi-PAP avait été inclus dans le protocole de recherche. Conclusion : Nos résultats ne permettent pas de confirmer le rôle du recul mandibulaire, causé par la force exercée avec le masque facial, dans l’obtention de pressions supérieures avec ce masque, mais nous ne pouvons toutefois pas éliminer l’hypothèse. Les résultats suggèrent également que ce phénomène est peut-être plus fréquent qu’on ne le croit et qu’il pourrait y avoir un lien avec certains facteurs anatomiques individuels. / The first line of treatment for obstructive sleep apnea is continuous positive airway pressure or CPAP used via a nasal mask. Some patients, unable to tolerate the nasal mask, have to turn to the facial mask, which sometimes requires a superior level of pressure to eliminate all the respiratory events. We believe that the force applied on the chin from a tight adjustment of the facial mask may retrude the mandible and diminish the upper airway caliber. Our objectives for this study were to: 1) demonstrate that a difference of effective therapeutic pressure between the nasal and facial masks does exist, 2) quantify the leaks associated with each mask, 3) evaluate the effect of a neutral mandibular appliance (NMA), that prevents the retrusion of the mandible, on the effective pressure of both masks and 4) evaluate if a link between the cephalometric values and varied individual responses to both masks exists. Methods: Eight subjects (2 females, 6 males) mean age 56.3 years (33-65y) participated in the cross-over design pilot study. All subjects underwent a complete orthodontic examination including lateral cephalometric radiograph before spending two nights in a sleep laboratory for a polysomnography in split-night protocol, where both mask were worn alone on the first night and with the NMA on the second night. Results: We found that the therapeutic effective pressure was higher with the facial mask compared to the nasal mask, and this difference was statistically significant. The leak was more elevated with the nasal mask, thus eliminating this factor as a probable cause of the higher pressure with the facial mask. The NMA did not have any statistically significant effect on both masks; however a possible positive effect might be seen if the Bi-level PAP was included in the protocol. Conclusion: Our results cannot confirm the role of the retrusion of the mandible, caused by the force applied by the facial mask, in the necessity of a superior level of pressure with that mask, but we cannot eliminate that possibility either. Our results suggest that this phenomenon is more frequent that we may think and that a link with some anatomical factors may exist.