The decision to patronize a particular store usually starts with a set of characteristics or attributes that consumers consider important. Consumers then use these attributes to make decisions regarding what store or stores can cater to their particular needs. Past retail and marketing studies have identified several consumer-oriented store attributes such as price, quality, variety, discounts, store reputation and their relationship to store patronage, but these studies overlooked how the physical environment affects retail store patronage. In addition, very few studies have addressed the issue of shopping scenarios and how they affect store patronage. The purpose of this study was to examine the influence of selected environmental dimensions on store patronage using specific apparel shopping scenarios. Data were collected using a random sample of women age 18 and over throughout the United States. The final sample consisted of 151 women. Four hypotheses were formulated and tested using factor analysis, cluster analysis, MANOVA, and Chi-square. The hypotheses tested for differences in (a) importance of environmental dimensions relative to three shopping scenarios, (b) importance of environmental dimensions relative to shopping orientations, (c) perceptions of first store choice relative to shopping orientations, and (d) attitude toward first store choice. Results revealed no difference in importance ratings of two environmental dimension factors, Sensory/Layout (Factor 1) and Music/Aesthetics (Factor 2), for three shopping scenarios (i.e., a dress for a formal social gathering, family gathering, work or community activity). Significant differences were found in the importance ratings of the Sensory/Layout and Music Aesthetics dimension factors across shopping orientation clusters. The clusters were named Decisive Apparel Shoppers (Cluster 1), Confident Apparel Shoppers (Cluster 2), Bargain Apparel Shoppers (Cluster 3), and Appearance Conscious Apparel Shoppers. The Bargain Apparel Shoppers had higher mean scores on the environmental factors than the other shopper groups. With regard to first store choice, the department store was chosen most often as first store choice. Furthermore, differences were found in perception of the environment for first store choice across the shopping orientation clusters. No differences were found for the Ventilation/Sensory factor; however, differences were found for the Signs perception factor. Respondents expressed relatively unfavorable attitudes toward their first store choice. However, of those that expressed an unfavorable attitude, several respondents indicated they were likely to visit their first store choice again. / Ph. D.

Modebilder har länge porträtterat kvinnor genom könsstereotyper och ouppnåeliga ideal men nu sätter konsumenter mer press än någonsin på modeföretag att utveckla mer mångsidighet inom modebilder. Tidigare forskning kring ämnet har främst studerats utifrån hur kvinnor porträtteras i modebilder, vilka könsstereotyper som används och hur det påverkar konsumenter. Studiens syfte genererades ur ett identifierat forskningsgap kring hur kvinnliga konsumenter vill att kvinnlighet ska bli porträtterat i modebilder. Studiens syfte är att identifiera vad kvinnliga konsumenter mellan 20 och 25 år anser vara önskvärda modebilder som speglar mångsidiga kvinnoporträtt. Vidare är syftet att skapa förståelse för hur målgruppen uppfattar och förhåller sig till modebilder, med särskild fokus på hur kvinnlighet porträtteras och med vilka konsekvenser. Den tidigare forskningen täcker både könsstereotyp och genusprogressiv marknadsföring samt dess påverkan på konsumenter. Studiens teoretiska ramverk utgår från övergripande genusteori samt genusteorier kopplade till bilder och visuella uttryck. Det teoretiska ramverket förklarar vilka könsstereotyper och ideal som kvinnor iscensätts genom i modebilder samt hur bildtolkning och hantering av bildtolkning sker från betraktaren. Studien är av kvalitativ karaktär och som metod för insamling av material utförs semistrukturerade intervjuer med åtta kvinnliga konsumenter bosatta i Götaland. Urvalet av respondenter utgår från modeföretaget Weekdays kundbas och bildmaterialet som används under intervjuerna är från Weekdays e-handel. Det empiriska materialet analyseras genom en tematisk analysmetod och kodas genom färgkodning. Resultatet visar att trots modebranschen utvecklat mer mångsidiga porträtt av kvinnor, identifierade respondenterna kvinnliga könsstereotyper i dagens modebilder. De kvinnliga könsstereotyperna reproduceras i modebilder genom poseringar och kameravinklar som lägger fokus på kvinnokroppen och framhäver ideal. Könsstereotyperna påverkar respondenterna känslomässigt och psykologiskt då de bidrar till låg självkänsla och utvecklingen av hanteringsmekanismer. Resultatet visar att kvinnliga konsumenter vill se fler kroppstyper och etniciteter skildras i modebilder. Diskussionen kring resultatet diskuteras utifrån studiens forskningsfrågor, den första delen diskuterar hur kvinnlighet gestaltas i nutida bilder, den andra delen diskuterar den känslomässiga och psykologiska påverkan som de nutida bilder har på kvinnliga konsumenter. Sist diskuteras vad målgruppen anser vara önskvärda porträtt av kvinnor och vad det har för betydelse för praktiken. Studiens centrala slutsats är att porträttera en större ram för kvinnlighet inom modebilder hade gynnat både modeföretag och konsumenter då det värnar för konsumentens välmående och samtidigt ökar köpintentionen. Slutsatsen av studien är att kvinnor i åldrarna 20 till 25 vill kunna relatera till modebilder, inte känna sig exkluderade av dem. Genom att studien är begränsad till få antal respondenter är ett förslag till vidare forskning att utföra en likartad studie på andra konsumentgrupper angående samma ämne för att bredda förståelsen. / Fashion images have for a long time portrayed women through gender stereotypes and unattainable ideals, but consumers have started putting more pressure than ever on fashion companies to develop more versatile fashion images. The relevance of the subject is based on an identified research gap on how female consumers want femininity to be portrayed in fashion images. The purpose of this thesis is to create an understanding of how women between the ages of 20 and 25 perceive and relate to fashion images, with a focus on how women are portrayed and with what consequences. Furthermore, the purpose is to identify what the target group considers to be desirable images that reflect versatile portraits of women. The literature overview shows that previous research has mainly studied the subject based on how women are portrayed in fashion images, which gender stereotypes are used, and how it affects consumers. Previous research also covers gender progressive marketing and its impact on consumers. The study's theoretical framework is based on gender theory and gender theories linked to images and visual expressions. The theoretical framework explains what gender stereotypes and ideals women are portrayed through in fashion images and how the viewer interprets these images and develops coping mechanisms thereafter. The study is of a qualitative nature and the method for collecting material is conducted through semi-structured interviews with female consumers living in Götaland. The sample selection for respondents was based on the fashion company Weekday’s customers and the image material used for the interviews was gathered from Weekday’s e-commerce. The empirical material was analyzed by a thematic analysis method and coded by color coding. The results show that despite the fashion industry developing more versatile portraits of women, respondents identified female gender stereotypes in today's fashion images. The female gender stereotypes are reproduced in fashion images through poses and camera angles that focus on the female body and emphasize ideals. Gender stereotypes affect respondents emotionally and psychologically as they contribute to low self-esteem and the development of coping mechanisms. The results show that female consumers want to see more body types and ethnicities portrayed in fashion images. The discussion about the result is discussed through the study's research questions, the first part discusses how femininity is portrayed in contemporary images, and the second part discusses the emotional and psychological impact that these images have on female consumers. The last part discusses what the target group considers to be desirable portraits of women and what that means for the practice. The study's central conclusion is that portraying a larger framework of femininity in fashion images would benefit both fashion companies and consumers as it assures the consumer's well-being and increases consumers' purchase intentions. The conclusion of the study is that women between the ages of 20 and 25 want to be able to relate to fashion images, not feel excluded by them. Because the study is limited to a small number of respondents, proposals for further research are to carry out a similar study on other consumer groups regarding the same subject in order to broaden the understanding.

Much of the effort that goes into a purchasing decision occurs at the stage where a choice has to be made from the available alternative clothing products (Solomon & Rabolt, 2009:392). In this phase of the decision making process, consumers’ perceptions of the clothing item they anticipate to purchase includes evaluation of the clothing and the application of specific evaluative criteria in order to assess the suitability of the clothing item (Saricam, Kalaoglu, Ozdygu & Urun, & 2012:2). Evaluative criteria are the specifications or standards that consumers use when comparing and assessing alternatives (Forney, Park & Brandon, 2005:158). Because consumer needs vary not only by the product they want to purchase but also in terms of information (Forney et al., 2005:158), identifying the evaluative criteria that consumers use in the clothing purchasing decision-making process may provide an insight into preferences relative to specific products, such as clothing. While several studies have shown that the purchasing decision can be influenced by individual differences as well as environmental influences, it is no doubt that the investigation of each of these variables provides important clues to understanding consumer purchase decision broadly, but are limited in some parts in their explanations when it comes to clothing purchasing decision. Literature has highlighted the significance of body shape on clothing preferences because of the inherent relationship between the clothing product and the body. The difference in body shape often determines how clothing will drape on a figure, how comfortable the garment feels and ultimately how the clothing product will be evaluated by the consumer. Moreover, personal values, which are defined as the desired end-states have been shown to be one of the most powerful explanations of, and influence on the way consumers are likely to behave in a specific situation, such as the purchasing of new clothing product, the process that includes evaluation, choosing among the alternatives and finally the purchasing decision (Vincent 2014:119; Kim et al. 2002:481; Laverie, Klein & Klein, 1993:2). Additionally, while in the process of evaluating various clothing attributes for the suitability of the clothing product in terms of body shape and personal values, female consumers may experience either positive or negative emotions (Zeelenberg et al., 2008:18), depending on how the clothing is assessed. Most theories of emotional influences on decision making take the valence-based approach (Lerner & Keltener, 2000:473), focusing on the effects of positive versus negative emotional states. However, Lerner and Keltener (2000:473), have suggested that emotion specific approach, in particular the Appraisal-Tendency Framework (ATF) model is more effective to understand and predict the influence of specific emotions on decision making and behaviour. Consumers’ choice of the clothes based on the evaluative criteria during the decision making process is regarded as a form of consumer input to the clothing manufacturing and design (May-Plumee & Little, 2006:62). Since these underlying factors are regarded as important for understanding the rationale behind consumer clothing purchasing decision and behaviour, a thorough investigation of such factors on how they impact clothing evaluative criteria is greatly necessary. This may help and guide the clothing manufacturers and retailer on how to design and produce clothing products that are most relevant for the needs and preferences of South African female consumers. The study, therefore, aimed to determine the influence of body shape and personal values on women’s preferences for and use of intrinsic evaluative criteria (styling/design, colour/pattern, appearance, appropriateness/acceptance, fit/sizing, comfort and fibre content/material) in the purchasing of casual blouse/top, trouser/skirt and dress. Information on the relevant importance of various clothing product attributes in the consumers’ mind may provide clothing manufacturers and designers with the basis for effective new clothing product development and marketing strategies. Furthermore, considering that emotions are involved in clothing purchasing decision, the study also focused on understanding the influence of emotions on clothing purchasing decision and subsequent behaviour. This study reflected the postpositive philosophical worldview which is typically associated with quantitative approach. In this case, the study assumed quantitative research design and methods and is regarded as exploratory in nature. Using purposeful, convenient and snowball techniques, the sample was solicited in Gauteng, Johannesburg, South Africa. A total of 316 women aged between 18 and 66 plus years old took part in the study. A survey using a group administered questionnaire was used to collect primary data from the respondents. The group administered questionnaire included demographic information of the participants, self-reported perceived body shape measure, personal values measure, evaluative measure and emotions measure. Descriptive statistics were used to analyze demographic information, as well as on overall data before inferential statistics were performed. Inferential statistics such as the z-test was applied to establish the significant evaluative criteria and to test the proportions of the selected emotions. Chi-Square test of independence was used to determine the association between body shape evaluative criteria investigated, while nonlinear canonical correlation analysis (OVERALS) was performed to establish the relationship between personal values and evaluative criteria and lastly, discriminant analysis was used determine purchasing behaviour. The analysis established that fit/sizing and comfort are the most important evaluative criteria that women consider in the purchasing of casual clothing categories studied. Respondents, also agreed that styling/design was the determinant evaluative criteria when purchasing a casual dress, while fit/sizing was the determinant evaluative criteria in the purchasing of a casual blouse/top and trouser/skirt. The results further showed that respondents in this study who perceive themselves to be diamond shaped, think colour/pattern is very important particularly when purchasing a casual blouse/top. However, when purchasing a trouser/skirt, the results reflected that the oval body shaped respondents think styling/design is very important, while respondents who perceive themselves to be rectangular body shaped, consider comfort when purchasing a casual dress. With regards to the relationship between personal values and evaluative criteria, the study found that when purchasing a casual blouse, respondents consider the appearance for the achievement of warm relationship with others, excitement and confidence. The results also indicated that through fit/size of a blouse/top, female consumers strongly aspired for self-respect. The results further showed that through the styling/design of a blouse/top, female consumers in this study want to achieve self-fulfillment, while a sense of accomplishment is influenced by the comfort of a casual blouse/top. On the other hand it was also revealed that appropriateness/acceptability of a casual blouse/top seemed to influence fun and enjoyment as well as sense of belonging. In the purchasing of a casual trouser/skirt, the results clearly showed that in order to achieve a warm relationship with others, female consumers strongly considered the fibre content/material and colour/pattern of trouser/skirt. The results also suggested that consumer considered the appearance of a trouser/skirt for the achievement of sense of belonging and self-fulfillment, while the styling/design of a trouser/skirt was somewhat considered for attainment of excitement. Through the fit/sizing of a casual trouser/skirt, it was shown that female consumers strongly aspired to achieve self-respect, confidence as well as fun and enjoyment. The results further highlighted that respondents considered appropriateness/acceptability of a casual trouser to somewhat influence being well-respected, while comfort of a casual trouser somewhat influenced a sense of accomplishment. In the purchasing of a casual dress, the results indicated that in order to achieve excitement and a warm relationship with others, female consumers in this study considered the appearance. The results further suggested that through the appearance of dress respondents somewhat also aspired for a sense of belonging. On the other hand, the results clearly revealed that respondents will consider fibre content/material, styling/design, fit/sizing and colour of casual dress in order to achieve self-respect, self-fulfillment, confidence, being well-respected and a sense of accomplishment. Lastly the results demonstrated that the best behaviour that drives the emotion “disgust” is “I walk away”. On the other had the best behaviour that drives the emotion “sadness” is “I spend more time shopping around”. The results were fully consistent and gave support to the emotions specific hypothesis (ATF) which postulates that different emotions of the same valence for instance, “disgust” and “sad”, both being negative, can exert opposing influences on decision making and behavior. However, concerning the positive specific emotions, it emerged that there were no behaviour differences between the emotions “happiness” and “contentment”, probably, suggesting unpredictable behaviour. It is, therefore, recommended that clothing designers and retailers should have a knowledge of the attributes that are preferred by female consumers of various body shape. It is also recommended that clothing manufacturers and retailers should endeavor to understand the value systems of their target. This study has contributed to the body of knowledge of understanding the role that body shape, personal values and emotions play in the clothing purchasing decision and behaviour. / Life and Consumer Sciences / Ph. D. (Consumer Science)

The thesis How mothers and daughters perceive and use fashion themes in lifestyle magazines for women is aimed at generational differences when it comes to perception of media content. Specifically, it examines differences in perception of fashion phenomenon presented in lifestyle magazines for women (e.g.: ELLE and Cosmopolitan) by mothers and their daughters. Today, not only individuals, but also family relations are influenced by new media, new technologies, and new forms of media content, therefore I focused on differences in consumption of those lifestyle magazine between two generations of women within a family. The thesis first introduces some theories on social construction of reality; how fashion is presented in magazines; how women as readers perceive fashion and how this influences readers' identities as a result of magazines' consumption, and how advertising is perceived by readers. Theoretical knowledge is then researched. Qualitative research was conducted on ten pairs of respondents (mother - daughter) in the form of interviews. The results show that lifestyle magazines do not serve as a main source of information about fashion anymore. Many young women are more likely to search for information related to fashion on the Internet today. Mothers and daughters do not happen to read and...