In the Maoist era, the quest for beauty was regarded as decadent Western bourgeois culture. However, more and more Chinese women have been shopping for a youthful and beautiful appearance by undergoing cosmetic surgery in recent decades. Based on ethnographic fieldwork conducted in Beijing, China, in 2006--2007, this study examines the phenomenon of the rapidly growing popularity of cosmetic surgery among Chinese women and considers the relationships between the remaking of female body image through cosmetic surgery, the reconstruction of self identity, and the reconfiguration of state power and market forces with the expansion of global consumerism in post-Mao China. The thesis suggests that the alteration of female body features through cosmetic surgery reflects in microcosm the transition of China from a Maoist socialist regime to a post-Maoist consumer society within a few decades, following its own "Chinese characteristics." Therefore, Chinese women's involvement in cosmetic surgery must be understood within the broader historical and socio-political context of China, and also must be seen both as the empowerment of Chinese women and also their ongoing subjugation to men, markets, and the state. / Wen, Hua. / Adviser: Gordon Matthews. / Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 72-04, Section: A, page: . / Thesis (Ph.D.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 2010. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 392-421). / Electronic reproduction. Hong Kong : Chinese University of Hong Kong, [2012] System requirements: Adobe Acrobat Reader. Available via World Wide Web. / Electronic reproduction. Ann Arbor, MI : ProQuest Information and Learning Company, [200-] System requirements: Adobe Acrobat Reader. Available via World Wide Web. / Abstract and glossary also in Chinese.

Submitted by Filipe dos Santos (fsantos@pucsp.br) on 2018-08-15T12:22:33Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Valéria C. Aprobato.pdf: 7448032 bytes, checksum: 95a59b3b1aae952911a6429fdeb4533e (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-15T12:22:33Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Valéria C. Aprobato.pdf: 7448032 bytes, checksum: 95a59b3b1aae952911a6429fdeb4533e (MD5) Previous issue date: 2018-06-29 / Conselho Nacional de Pesquisa e Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico - CNPq / What are the discourses on digital social networks that circulate around the themes of the search for the perfect body and eternal youth? In the context of the numerous publications on beauty, health and good shape present in cyberspace (Leão), this thesis is based on the hypothesis that there is a complex social imaginary being built in the networks and that it is possible to map the affections, practices and the logics that compose this imaginary. The research method involved: theoretical research (reading of texts and bibliographical review of the literature); empirical research composed by: (1) analysis of speeches present in celebrity networks; (2) questionnaires and interviews with followers of selected social networks; (3) cartography. The chosen corpus consists of "Instagram" pages by Jane Fonda, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Bela Gil, Bella Falconi and Kéfera. The theoretical foundation is composed by Foucault (discourses of power, biopolitics and subjectivity); Leão (network culture, mitoanalysis and cartography as a method for researching media imagery); Spinoza (affections); Flusser and Proser (cultural studies on the notions of gluttony and vanity). As results achieved, we could verify that the desire’s discourses for perfect body and eternal youth shelter three mythical matrices of collective construction of subjectivities (heroic, transgressive and transformative). Thus, we understand that the present thesis is a contribution to the studies of the media imaginaries that populate the networks’ discourses about perfect body and eternal youth and that the use of the discourse mapping method was productive for the construction of an understanding of these complex subjectivities / Quais são os discursos nas redes sociais digitais que circulam em torno dos temas da busca do corpo perfeito e da eterna juventude? No contexto das inúmeras publicações sobre beleza, saúde e boa forma presentes no ciberespaço (Leão), a presente tese de doutorado parte da hipótese de que existe imaginário social complexo sendo construído nas redes e que é possível realizar uma cartografia dos afetos, das práticas e das lógicas que compõem esse imaginário. O método de pesquisa envolveu: pesquisa teórica (leitura de textos e revisão bibliográfica da literatura); pesquisa empírica composta por: (1) análise de discursos presentes nas redes de celebridades; (2) questionários e entrevistas com seguidores das redes sociais selecionadas; (3) cartografia. O corpus escolhido é composto por páginas do Instagram de Jane Fonda, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Bela Gil, Bella Falconi e Kéfera. A fundamentação teórica é composta por Foucault (discursos de poder, biopolítica e subjetividade); Leão (cultura das redes, mitoanálise e cartografia como método de pesquisa de imaginários midiáticos); Spinoza (afetos); Flusser e Proser (estudos culturais acerca das noções de gula e vaidade). Como resultados alcançados, pudemos verificar que os discursos de desejos de um corpo perfeito e eterna juventude abrigam três matrizes míticas de construção coletiva de subjetividades (heroica, transgressora e transformativa). Assim, compreendemos que a presente tese é uma contribuição para os estudos dos imaginários midiáticos que povoam os discursos sobre corpo perfeito e eterna juventude nas redes e que a utilização do método da cartografia de discursos foi produtiva para a construção de um entendimento dessas complexas subjetividades

Using a framework of feminism and poststructuralism, this thesis aims to interrogate the utilisation of the body as a contested site of struggle for meaning in contemporary theatre dance in South Africa. "Both feminism, as a politics, and dance, as a cultural practice, share a concern for the body" (Brown, 1983: 198). A feminist analysis of dance can offer a tool to interrogate the dominant discourses of gender and race that surround and permeate both the female and male body in contemporary theatre dance. The body is not a neutral site onto which cultural codes and conventions are inscribed, as the dancer's body is always marked in the physical sense of gender and race. This thesis aims to decode the body and examine how the discourses of gender and race are embodied by the moving body on stage - specifically in the South African (KwaZulu-Natal) context. By a feminist appropriation of the poststructural endeavour, this research will look at how the body, as discourse, can be interrogated to examine how the interconnected discourses of gender and race surround and permeate the moving body. The utilisation of a poststructural paradigm will aid in the examination of how the dominant discourses of gender and race are hegemonically imposed onto the body. Poststructuralism also offers an understanding that there exist counter-discourses that have the ability to resist the dominant discourses of gender and race. This notion becomes important to the study of contemporary theatre dance as an art form. This thesis will examine how South African (Durban-based) contemporary theatre dance choreographers explore the body's potential to be subversive in performance. The thesis will focus on the body's ability to interrogate the discourses that operate in its surroundings and permeate its lived reality. / Thesis (M.A.)-University of Natal, Durban, 2000.

Abordo, nesta tese, a rotina de trabalho das catadoras e dos catadores de materiais recicláveis, buscando refletir como a noção de abjeção se expressa na vida destas pessoas. Para tanto, foi realizada uma pesquisa de campo inspirada na etnografia. Esta vivência ocorreu em uma associação de catadoras/es na região metropolitana de Curitiba, além de abarcar experiências em eventos referentes ao mundo da catação que contaram com a participação do Movimento Nacional dos Catadores de Materiais Recicláveis (MNCR). Parti de uma compreensão de que o trabalho das/os catadoras/es tem sido uma atividade plenamente vinculada à estrutura do sistema capitalista. A prática da produção e do intenso consumo gera uma volumosa quantidade de materiais descartados, condição básica para a existência do trabalho de catação na sua atual configuração. Além disso, a profissão de catadora/r tem sido exercida, de maneira geral, em condições precárias e indignas, o que permanece como uma característica de vários outros trabalhos no sistema capitalista. Os dados de campo se mostraram férteis para a reflexão sobre as relações entre as condições precárias deste trabalho e a incidência da abjeção na vida das/os catadoras/es, sobretudo pelo fato de trabalharem com o lixo. Relativizo as noções de bagunça e de sujeira – historicamente construídas – pois as percebo como componentes encharcados de uma moralidade que contribui intensamente para que as/os catadoras/es sejam classificadas/os como corpos abjetos. São analisadas, também, algumas marcas de abjeção presentes nas relações internas entre catadoras/es e outras instituições. Nesta análise, são apresentados alguns desafios de se instituir um projeto de trabalho cooperativo e guiado pela autogestão, como proposto no estatuto da associação pesquisada e os princípios do MNCR. A instalação de um artefato tecnológico na associação – uma esteira motorizada – estimulou reflexões sobre a introdução de discursos e práticas permeados pelo controle e disciplinarização das/os trabalhadoras/es. Aponta-se, ainda, que existe uma carência de um processo de formação que venha a estimular um entendimento mais claro sobre os modelos de trabalho solidário e cooperativo. Outro aspecto significativo figura-se na grande quantidade de mulheres que assumem esta profissão, existindo uma probabilidade de ser maioria. As histórias de vida narradas por várias catadoras demonstraram marcas de violências, acompanhadas pela expressão de terem se sentido “como lixo”. O estudo permitiu concluir que ser catadora/r de materiais recicláveis tem significado conviver com a realidade de existência como um corpo que causa abjeção. Reconhecer que existe uma concepção a respeito das/os catadoras/es que as/os enquadra como corpos abjetos, que opera preconceitos, discriminações, medos e violências, pode significar uma possibilidade de se rever esta percepção. / In this thesis, I depict the work routine of the recyclable material collectors, seeking the realization of how the notion of abjection is expressed in the life of these people. As such, a field research was conducted inspired in ethnography. This practice took place in an association of recyclable material collectors in the metropolitan region of Curitiba, besides incorporating experiences in events related to the world of garbage collection, with the participation of the National Movement of Recyclable Material Collectors (in Portuguese, MNCR). I assumed that the work of recyclable material collectors has been an activity that is utterly associated with the capitalist system. The exercise of production and heavy consumption generates a vast quantity of disposed material, which is the basic condition for the existence of the work related to garbage collection in its current setting. Besides, the occupation of garbage collector has been executed, generally, in precarious and inhuman conditions, as it is characteristic of many other work environments in the capitalist system. The field data reveals to be a rich source for reflection upon the relationship between these precarious working conditions, and the incidence of abjection in the lives of recyclable material collectors, mainly because they work with garbage. The notion of chaos and filth when historically built is put into perspective when I perceived them as components soaked in morality, which intensely contributes to the garbage collector to be classified as abject bodies. It is noted that some signs of abjections are present in internal relationship between the collectors and other institutions. Furthermore, some challenges are raised in this analysis, so as to work towards a collaborative project guided by self-management, as proposed by the association of recyclable material collectors’ statute, and in the principles of the National Movement of Recyclable Material Collectors. The installation of a technological artifact – a rolling conveyor system - at the association, stimulated the observations about the introduction of discourses and practices, permeated by the control and discipline of the recyclable material collectors’ work. It is also noted that there is a need of a formation process, which stimulates a clear understanding about the models of a solidary and collective labor. Another significant aspect on this research is in the great number of women who become workers in the field, with a probability to represent the majority of the recyclable material collectors in that region. The life stories, told by the female recyclable material collectors, often involve acts of violence and abuse, followed by the manifestation of feeling “like garbage”. This study allows me to conclude that, being a recyclable material collector implies to live with the reality of existing in a body that causes abjection. The fact that we realize that there is bias around the recyclable material collectors, which frames them as abject bodies, and consequently leads to prejudice and discrimination, fear and violence, may indicate that there is a possibility to change this perception.

Abordo, nesta tese, a rotina de trabalho das catadoras e dos catadores de materiais recicláveis, buscando refletir como a noção de abjeção se expressa na vida destas pessoas. Para tanto, foi realizada uma pesquisa de campo inspirada na etnografia. Esta vivência ocorreu em uma associação de catadoras/es na região metropolitana de Curitiba, além de abarcar experiências em eventos referentes ao mundo da catação que contaram com a participação do Movimento Nacional dos Catadores de Materiais Recicláveis (MNCR). Parti de uma compreensão de que o trabalho das/os catadoras/es tem sido uma atividade plenamente vinculada à estrutura do sistema capitalista. A prática da produção e do intenso consumo gera uma volumosa quantidade de materiais descartados, condição básica para a existência do trabalho de catação na sua atual configuração. Além disso, a profissão de catadora/r tem sido exercida, de maneira geral, em condições precárias e indignas, o que permanece como uma característica de vários outros trabalhos no sistema capitalista. Os dados de campo se mostraram férteis para a reflexão sobre as relações entre as condições precárias deste trabalho e a incidência da abjeção na vida das/os catadoras/es, sobretudo pelo fato de trabalharem com o lixo. Relativizo as noções de bagunça e de sujeira – historicamente construídas – pois as percebo como componentes encharcados de uma moralidade que contribui intensamente para que as/os catadoras/es sejam classificadas/os como corpos abjetos. São analisadas, também, algumas marcas de abjeção presentes nas relações internas entre catadoras/es e outras instituições. Nesta análise, são apresentados alguns desafios de se instituir um projeto de trabalho cooperativo e guiado pela autogestão, como proposto no estatuto da associação pesquisada e os princípios do MNCR. A instalação de um artefato tecnológico na associação – uma esteira motorizada – estimulou reflexões sobre a introdução de discursos e práticas permeados pelo controle e disciplinarização das/os trabalhadoras/es. Aponta-se, ainda, que existe uma carência de um processo de formação que venha a estimular um entendimento mais claro sobre os modelos de trabalho solidário e cooperativo. Outro aspecto significativo figura-se na grande quantidade de mulheres que assumem esta profissão, existindo uma probabilidade de ser maioria. As histórias de vida narradas por várias catadoras demonstraram marcas de violências, acompanhadas pela expressão de terem se sentido “como lixo”. O estudo permitiu concluir que ser catadora/r de materiais recicláveis tem significado conviver com a realidade de existência como um corpo que causa abjeção. Reconhecer que existe uma concepção a respeito das/os catadoras/es que as/os enquadra como corpos abjetos, que opera preconceitos, discriminações, medos e violências, pode significar uma possibilidade de se rever esta percepção. / In this thesis, I depict the work routine of the recyclable material collectors, seeking the realization of how the notion of abjection is expressed in the life of these people. As such, a field research was conducted inspired in ethnography. This practice took place in an association of recyclable material collectors in the metropolitan region of Curitiba, besides incorporating experiences in events related to the world of garbage collection, with the participation of the National Movement of Recyclable Material Collectors (in Portuguese, MNCR). I assumed that the work of recyclable material collectors has been an activity that is utterly associated with the capitalist system. The exercise of production and heavy consumption generates a vast quantity of disposed material, which is the basic condition for the existence of the work related to garbage collection in its current setting. Besides, the occupation of garbage collector has been executed, generally, in precarious and inhuman conditions, as it is characteristic of many other work environments in the capitalist system. The field data reveals to be a rich source for reflection upon the relationship between these precarious working conditions, and the incidence of abjection in the lives of recyclable material collectors, mainly because they work with garbage. The notion of chaos and filth when historically built is put into perspective when I perceived them as components soaked in morality, which intensely contributes to the garbage collector to be classified as abject bodies. It is noted that some signs of abjections are present in internal relationship between the collectors and other institutions. Furthermore, some challenges are raised in this analysis, so as to work towards a collaborative project guided by self-management, as proposed by the association of recyclable material collectors’ statute, and in the principles of the National Movement of Recyclable Material Collectors. The installation of a technological artifact – a rolling conveyor system - at the association, stimulated the observations about the introduction of discourses and practices, permeated by the control and discipline of the recyclable material collectors’ work. It is also noted that there is a need of a formation process, which stimulates a clear understanding about the models of a solidary and collective labor. Another significant aspect on this research is in the great number of women who become workers in the field, with a probability to represent the majority of the recyclable material collectors in that region. The life stories, told by the female recyclable material collectors, often involve acts of violence and abuse, followed by the manifestation of feeling “like garbage”. This study allows me to conclude that, being a recyclable material collector implies to live with the reality of existing in a body that causes abjection. The fact that we realize that there is bias around the recyclable material collectors, which frames them as abject bodies, and consequently leads to prejudice and discrimination, fear and violence, may indicate that there is a possibility to change this perception.

This thesis examines three contestations involving human remains which have arisen in the Eastern Cape over the past fifteen years. It shows that the value or meaning attached to human remains is constructed through the socio-historical dynamics out of which these contestations arise. The meaning and value of human remains is neither inherent nor neutral. In Ndancama's case, the need for housing in Fingo Village led hundreds of poor residents to settle on the township's Old Cemetery in 1972. Basic material needs trumped concerns for those buried in the cemetery. When the post-apartheid municipality sought to provide sewerage and housing infrastructure for Ndancama in 2003, its development plans were constrained by new heritage legislation which protects historic cemeteries. Residents insisted that their infrastructural needs were of primary importance. In 1993, the unearthing of human remains at the Old Military Cemetery in King William's Town created a thirteen year long saga which was only resolved with the reburial of the remains in 2006. The presence of the remains proved problematic for a number of reasons. Local authorities failed to rebury the remains speedily. The burden to store them fell on the Kaffrarian Museum which came under fire because this was considered unethical in the postapartheid era. The identity of the remains became a bone of contention in 2006 when the new Amathole District Municipality concluded that the remains were those of victims who died in the 1856-57 Great Cattle Killing. The remains and their reburial became symbols of past injustice and present restoration of African heritage. The 1996 quest by 'Nicholas Gcaleka', a 'self-styled' chief and traditional healer, to search for King Hintsa's skull in the United Kingdom provoked unprecedented public engagement with the incomplete narrative on the fate of Hintsa's body. The power to represent history, and the methods through which historical truth is discovered were at the heart of the contestation. Elites such as the Xhosa Royal and the white scientific establishment were considered neither credible nor authoritative on this historical matter. Public support for Gcaleka revealed that many South Africans sought just recompense for colonial injustices.

This thesis covers the background and history of cultural attitudes towards body art, scarification and tattoos, the history of street gangs and their influence and impact on Southern California communities, and an in-depth program analysis of the "Gang Tattoo Removal Program" established at the Arrowhead Regional Medical Center (ARMC).