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Contemporary knitting over the past decade has experienced a recent resurgence in cultural interest and technical exploration. This research project aims to identify, through personal practice, the implications of knitting as undefined, removed from the boundaries of product. It is the dissolving of the lines between design, art and craft and exploring the domestically machine knitted textile via the use of materials and the inherent qualities of the fabric which are the driving factors of this research. It is through this exploration that my personal and creative process is diversified. The traditional connotations of knitting are historical, social and cultural, in particular hand knitting. Childhood memories of mothers and grandmothers knitting out of necessity, for clothing, often evoke feelings of safety, warmth and comfort. This familiarity of the looped stitches and understanding of the knit as garment binds knitting to fashion. Industrial knitting process, as scale of stitch is reduced, begins to remove this familiarity and creates an anonymity of structure and process, for example jersey knits used for t-shirts. This instant recognition for knitting as clothing is part of the design process where-by knitted fabrics work in unison with product. It is this boundary that has defined my professional practice designing for knitwear. This research involves a more experimental and fluid approach to producing the textile, considering the qualities and potential of the structure as something to celebrate in its own form. Designers such as Issey Miyake, Hussein Chalayan and the artist Rosmarie Trockel have been influential in taking fashion concepts into the gallery, often knitted. This movement of making conceptual and political statements, especially in the case of the industrially knitted pieces by Trockel, was a step to question the traditional and feminist perceptions of knitting and using the process as a material to create art. While these exhibitions explored the knitted textile in the form of fashion garment, the importance of diversifying the knitted cloth and displaying conceptual pieces is a major influence on this research. Also the more recent exhibition 'Radical Lace and Subversive Knitting', (Museum of Arts & Design New York 2007), has allowed for a reinvigorated forum for constructed textiles to be viewed as object, new product or purely as spatial explorations of structure. The impact of these ideas has allowed for the consideration of the textile being stripped back further and to remove the instant connot ation of product application. Exploration of materials, knitted structures and the manipulation of fabric without the constraints of identified product is the impetus of this project. The evolution of the outcomes is instrumental to the reactions of fibres, stitch and interplays of positive and negative space, while suggestions of product are accidental and created by the knitted form as it is removed from the machine. A personal interest in exploiting the knitted structures potential to possess transparency and opacity, become sculptural and changeable by hand have influenced the choices of material and stitch combination. This experimentation has informed my personal practice and the involved process of making.

The use of knitting technology with advanced fibres such as glass, carbon and aramid, to produce near-net-shape fabrics has in recent years received increasing interest from the composite materials community. Knitted fabrics have the potential of being used in engineering structures with complex shapes in conjunction with a suitable liquid moulding technique, such as Resin Transfer Moulding (RTM), due to their excellent drapeability and manufacturability. During previous studies in textile reinforced composites, an intimate relationship between the fabric architecture and the damage development has been demonstrated. In this work, the quasi-static tensile loading deformation behaviour and the relation between the fabric architecture and damage development have been studied for a weft knitted glass fabric. Tensile properties have been examined and the failure mechanisms have been identified experimentally by analysing the damage process in-situ with a camera and by studying fracture surfaces using scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The acoustic emission technique was used to support the microscopic analysis. The work has investigated the tensile properties and failure mechanisms of three knitted fabric reinforced composite laminates reinforced with a Milano weft knitted glass fabric. The three composites were (i) a single layer of fabric reinforcing epoxy resin, (ii) a single knitted fabric layer sandwiched between 0° glass fibre unidirectional plies (again with the glass reinforcing epoxy resin), and (iii) the same knitted glass fabric but this time used as the reinforcement in commercially produced high fibre volume fraction composites (using the RTM technique). The variation of mechanical properties with angle (from wale to course) has been measured for the single layer of the fabric reinforcing epoxy resin by orientating the wale direction of the fabric at different angles. Mechanical properties have been measured for each angular orientation and comparisons were made between them, especially with regard to the planes of final failure. The single layer composites failed as soon as the first damage was initiated. Hence, to investigate damage accumulation, a novel technique was employed to manufacture a sandwich laminate, which consisted in placing a single knitted fabric layer between 0° glass fibre unidirectional plies. The success of this method is that the accumulation of damage in the knitted architecture was allowed to be studied and some characteristics of crack initiation and crack propagation could be related to the fabric geometry and structure. Experiments on these model transparent materials have been complemented by tests on two types of commercial knitted fabric composite manufactured by the RTM process. Characterization of these materials under tensile loading has been carried out for monotonic and cyclic loading and the results have been compared with those found for the single layer and the sandwich model material. Various failure mechanisms such as cracking at loop cross-over points, resin matrix cracking, fibre bundle debonding and tensile fracture of fibre bundles in failed specimens were observed. The behaviour of the commercial RTM specimens has been discussed in the light of the results obtained from the model single layer and sandwich specimens.

Orientador: Franco Giuseppe Dedini / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Faculdade de Engenharia Mecanica / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-08T23:58:43Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Sanches_ReginaAparecida_D.pdf: 6482630 bytes, checksum: 884aa0c09cfb0b504f3db72a091fa6ca (MD5) Previous issue date: 2006 / Resumo: As características que determinam a qualidade de um produto de vestuário começam com a seleção das matérias primas, fibras, fios e tecidos, passando pelas fases de criação, desenvolvimento, confecção e acabamento. O objetivo deste trabalho é propor um procedimento para a seleção de matéria prima que será utilizada na fabricação de artigos para vestuário. Foram escolhidos fios de algodão, visando à produção de artigos confortáveis e fios de poliamida e de poliéster texturados ao ar, que possibilitam a produção de artigos com aspecto e toque de fibra natural. Para cada matéria prima, foi montado um planejamento fatorial 22, com o objetivo de identificar os fatores de controle da máquina circular que irão influenciar nas características das malhas. Utilizando a programação linear foi feita a otimização dos parâmetros de controle da máquina e produzidos tecidos de malha com mesmas características. A seleção da matéria prima ideal para a produção dos artigos foi feita utilizando o AHP ¿ Método de Análise Hierárquica / Abstract: The characteristics which determine the quality of a clothing product begin with the choice of raw materials, fibers, yarns and fabrics passing through the creation, development, apparel industry and finishing. The purpose of this work is to propose a proceeding for helping the development of textile products. Cotton yarns were chosen aiming at the production of comfortable goods and polyamide and polyester air textured yarns, which enable the production of goods with natural fiber look and hand. For each raw material, it was provided a 22 factorial design, aiming at identifying the control factors of the circular machine which influence the knitted fabrics. Using the linear programming, the optimization of the machine control parameters was done and knitted fabrics, with the same characteristics, were produced. The choice of the ideal raw material for the production of the goods has been done using the AHP ¿ Analytic Hierarchy Process / Doutorado / Mecanica dos Sólidos e Projeto Mecanico / Doutor em Engenharia Mecânica

As the globalisation process accelerates there is a growing need for individual countries to understand the bases for effective performance in international trade. Because it makes up such a large share of world trade, it is especially important to understand what determines effectiveness in exporting. Despite much empirical research, especially over recent decades, the state of knowledge on this topic remains fragmented, unclear and unsatisfactory. The motivation for the present study was therefore twofold: dissatisfaction with the present state of knowledge in this vital area and the importance to the UK economy of improving its export performance in a world of increasing competition. Its aim was to contribute to the resolution of both. In addition to finding what appeared to be quite serious methodological problems in a group of earlier studies, our review of the literature indicated that the best prospects for identifying the determinants of effective exporting were to be found, not at national or sectoral level but at that of the individual firm. Accordingly, an empirical survey research project was developed. To minimise unquantifiable inter-sectoral variability, it was focused on a single sector of industry. For a range of reasons, including the limited amount of information available about its current export activity and prospects, the UK knitted apparel industry was chosen. Special care having been taken to assemble the fullest possible sampling frame and to develop a suitable instrument (which included an export performance model), a mail survey in the form of a stratified random sample of exporting UK manufacturers of knitted apparel was carried through from late 2000. Persistent follow-up by mail and telephone generated a response rate of 70 per cent, comprising close to half of the sampling frame, that was representative of all company size bands, levels of exporting and products. The overall quality of the responses was good; tests of non-response did not find any indications of non-response bias. Data analysis, designed to test thoroughly our 10 export-determinants hypotheses, relied primarily on Pearsonian correlation at the bivariate level then sequentially on Multiple Regression Analysis, Canonical Correlation Analysis and Partial Least Squares. A perhaps slightly novel aspect of the research was that it was not solely cross-sectional in format; a longitudinal element was provided by drawing on the researcher's earlier surveys ; and a panel element by following-up, in 2007, the main 2000 field survey. Where possible, these data were drawn upon in the analysis and interpretation. There did not appear to be any conflict between the three multivariate techniques employed and indeed their findings were not dissimilar. The outcome of the data analysis was to uphold, to varying degrees, most of our hypotheses about the determinants of effective or successful exporting. Those that did not find support were three: firm size, product adaptation, and price determination method. Most strongly supported as determinants were promotional intensity, serving many markets and visits to trade fairs/exhibitions; others which were statistically significant, included management commitment, special staff skills and the use of Commission Agents. While the conclusions must remain a bit tentative they are encouraging.

As the globalisation process accelerates there is a growing need for individual countries to understand the bases for effective performance in international trade. Because it makes up such a large share of world trade, it is especially important to understand what determines effectiveness in exporting. Despite much empirical research, especially over recent decades, the state of knowledge on this topic remains fragmented, unclear and unsatisfactory. The motivation for the present study was therefore twofold: dissatisfaction with the present state of knowledge in this vital area and the importance to the UK economy of improving its export performance in a world of increasing competition. Its aim was to contribute to the resolution of both. In addition to finding what appeared to be quite serious methodological problems in a group of earlier studies, our review of the literature indicated that the best prospects for identifying the determinants of effective exporting were to be found, not at national or sectoral level but at that of the individual firm. Accordingly, an empirical survey research project was developed. To minimise unquantifiable inter-sectoral variability, it was focused on a single sector of industry. For a range of reasons, including the limited amount of information available about its current export activity and prospects, the UK knitted apparel industry was chosen.. Special care having been taken to assemble the fullest possible sampling frame and to develop a suitable instrument (which included an export performance model), a mail survey in the form of a stratified random sample of exporting UK manufacturers of knitted apparel was carried through from late 2000. Persistent follow-up by mail and telephone generated a response rate of 70 per cent, comprising close to half of the sampling frame, that was representative of all company size bands, levels of exporting and products. The overall quality of the responses was good; tests of non-response did not find any indications of non-response bias. Data analysis, designed to test thoroughly our 10 export-determinants hypotheses, relied primarily on Pearsonian correlation at the bivariate level then sequentially on Multiple Regression Analysis, Canonical Correlation Analysis and Partial Least Squares. A perhaps slightly novel aspect of the research was that it was not solely cross-sectional in format; a longitudinal element was provided by drawing on the researcher¿s earlier surveys ; and a panel element by following-up, in 2007, the main 2000 field survey. Where possible, these data were drawn upon in the analysis and interpretation. There did not appear to be any conflict between the three multivariate techniques employed and indeed their findings were not dissimilar. The outcome of the data analysis was to uphold, to varying degrees, most of our hypotheses about the determinants of effective/ or successful exporting. Those that did not find support were three: firm size, product adaptation, and price determination method. Most strongly supported as determinants were promotional intensity, serving many markets and visits to trade fairs/ exhibitions; others which were statistically significant, included management commitment, special staff skills and the use of Commission Agents. While the conclusions must remain a bit tentative they are encouraging.

Textile process and textile structures that are suitable for composites are carefully studied and chosen to have weft knitted fabrics. The aim of this research is to knit the carbon and Dyneema® fibres in circular weft knitting to fit contour shapes. Carbon/Dyneema® can also be knitted in warp knitting machines to get properties in multi axial direction. But the fabric was flat and can be used only for 2D shape products which are having less drapabiity. According to previous research, weft knitting is the best suitable for complex preforms. Before knitting these fibres properties were studied in order to avoid the damage to the carbon fibres. The carbon fibres have high bending rigidity, low resistance to friction and are very brittle. A small damage to the carbon fibre in knitting subsequently affect directly on the composite properties. The strongest manmade fibre manufactured till date is Dyneema® and these fibres could be used in composites due to its performance, properties and light weight. But, the Dyneema® fibres are expensive when compared to common polyester, so polyester fibres are used to compare the properties and cost performance ratio. The critical bending of the carbon fibres causes friction between the fibres and also between fibre and machine. This was considered carefully during the knitting of carbon fibres and the idea chosen is mentioned in this thesis. Between the two layers of Dyneema®/polyester, carbon fibres are laid circularly in unidirectional and in un-crimped condition. This makes the carbon yarn to possess good mechanical properties. The 2 layers of Dyneema®/polyester fibres exchange the loops at certain points to increase the inter-laminar strength and decrease the carbon fibre distortion. This structure helps to withstand external load. It is also lighter than the carbon composite with additional properties. This makes much more space in the future for the Dyneema® fibres in the 3D carbon composite manufacturing. The internal carbon fibres are fully covered by the Dyneema® fibres to withstand the external impact load and not to damage the carbon fibres. So the loop length, stitch density, fibre volume fractions are considered before knitting.

El presente trabajo de investigación se desarrolló con la finalidad de ejercer la profesión de Administración de Negocios Globales, es por ello que se trabajó en las variables propuestas y su factibilidad en la ejecución en base a un estudio de mercado, un estudio organizacional sobre los aspectos legales y el cálculo de la inversión. El método de investigación utilizado fue el hipotético - deductivo y se aplicaron los diseños experimentales, longitudinales, prospectivos. Se consideró como muestra a 323 personas, todos de nacionalidad estadounidense. The present research work was developed in order to practice the profession of Global Business Administration, that is why we worked on the proposed variables and their feasibility in the execution based on a market study, an organizational study on the aspects legal and calculation of the investment. The research method used was the hypothetico - deductive and the experimental, longitudinal, prospective designs were applied. A sample of 323 people was considered, all of them of American nationality.

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No. of bitstreams: 1 SamantaMH_DISSERT.pdf: 5589913 bytes, checksum: 13f8ab4185b2d9b1c9576d1b7fd6d94b (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-12-01 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / The growing development of telecommunications, especially mobile devices, has intensified related searches the microstrip antennas in recent years since they have unique properties and wide range of applications. The constant demand for lighter and more flexible devices boosted research in wearable technology area where electronics are fully embedded in their fibers. In this context, knitted fabrics have the necessary elasticity to create adaptable and sports parts, enabling high mobility and comfort to its users. The textile antennas are malleable and, therefore, have great utility in applications where rigidity of traditional antennas is considered limiting, as in military use clothing and in the biomedical field. This work aims to study and develop microstrip antennas using knitted fabric based composite fibers, showing the procedures and materials used from the characterization and choice of fabrics to the design, manufacture and testing of the textile antenna. The electrical characterization was carried out using a Vector Network Analyzer (ARV) to obtain the electrical properties (permittivity and tangent losses). Obtaining textile properties (weight, dimensional stability, degree and tensile strength) was made in accordance with the technical standards, using the equipment available at the Department of Textile Engineering at the Federal University of Rio Grande do Norte (UFRN). The antenna has been designed using the transmission line model of Fortran program developed in accordance with the electrical properties of textile substrates. Subsequently the antenna was designed and simulated in HFSS® (High Frequency Structural Simulator), where radiation patterns are obtained, return loss, the Smith chart, current density and gain. The best simulated result was implemented with tissue disposed knitted in a three-layer structure according to the dimensions designed, and then the antenna is tested using a spectrum analyzer, which were collected data that allowed the manufacture of the letter Smith and graph of return loss. The experimental data were compared with the simulated and the results analyzed according to the literature that support this paper / O crescente desenvolvimento das telecomunicações, principalmente a de dispositivos móveis, têm intensificado as pesquisas relacionadas as antenas de microfita nos últimos anos, visto que estas possuem propriedades singulares, bem como vasta gama de aplicações. A constante procura por dispositivos mais leves e flexíveis impulsionou as pesquisas na área de tecnologia vestível, onde componentes eletrônicos são inteiramente embutidos em suas fibras têxteis. Nesse contexto, os tecidos malha possuem a elasticidade necessária para criar peças adaptáveis e esportivas, permitindo alta mobilidade e conforto aos seus usuários. As antenas têxteis são maleáveis e, por essa razão, têm grande utilidade em aplicações onde a rigidez das antenas tradicionais é considerada uma limitação, como em roupas de uso militar e na área biomédica. Este trabalho tem como objetivo estudar e desenvolver antenas de microfita utilizando tecido de malha à base de fibras têxteis compostas, mostrando os procedimentos e materiais utilizados desde a caracterização e escolha dos tecidos até o projeto, confecção e testes da antena têxtil. A caracterização elétrica foi realizada através de um Analisador de Redes Vetorial (ARV) para obtenção das propriedades elétricas (permissividade e tangente de perdas). A obtenção das propriedades têxteis (gramatura, estabilidade dimensional, titulação e resistência a tração) foi feita de acordo com as normas técnicas, utilizando os equipamentos disponíveis no Departamento de Engenharia Têxtil da Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte (UFRN). A antena foi dimensionada através do modelo da linha de transmissão em programa desenvolvido na linguagem Fortran de acordo com as propriedades elétricas dos substratos têxteis. Posteriormente a antena foi desenhada e simulada no HFSS® (High Frequency Structural Simulator), onde serão obtidos os diagramas de radiação, perda de retorno, densidade de corrente e ganho. O melhor resultado simulado foi implementado com o tecido de malha disposto numa estrutura de três camadas de acordo com as dimensões projetadas e, em seguida, a antena foi testada através de um analisador de espectro, onde foram coletados dados que permitiram a confecção da carta de Smith e gráfico da perda de retorno. Os dados experimentais foram comparados com os simulados e, os resultados analisados de acordo com a literatura especializada que embasam este trabalho / 2017-07-06

Orientador: Élson Luciano Silva Pires / Banca: Sílvia Selingardi-Sampaio / Banca: Claudete de Castro Silva Vitte / Resumo: A presente dissertação aborda, por meio de ampla revisão teórica e estudo empírico, a relação entre as noções de território e competitividade ao considerar que o sucesso das empresas na atualidade está relacionado a elementos específicos das regiões e localidades onde estão inseridas, através de seus recursos, organizações, instituições e externalidades. Para tanto, a noção de Arranjo Produtivo Local (APL) se coloca como instrumento de intercâmbio entre a busca de competitividade e a base territorial da atividade econômica, articulando os atores locais em estratégias coletivas para fortalecimento da competitividade do ambiente de negócios, sendo evidente tal relação no Circuito das Malhas do sul de Minas Gerais. Trata-se de região formada por pequenos municípios especializados na produção de artigos de vestuário em pequenas malharias, produção voltada predominantemente para o mercado nacional. A hipótese aventada é que a configuração sócioprodutiva do Circuito se aproxima muito da idéia de Arranjo produtivo local em fase de consolidação por conta do aglomerado de empresas ali existentes e do arcabouço institucional que as serve. Por fim, propõe-se um estudo da competitividade territorial, abordando as estratégias concorrenciais da região para uso de recursos específicos do território, à luz das categorias principais definidoras da moderna competitividade. / Abstract: The present dissertation treats, by means of ample theoretical revision and empirical study, the relationship between the notions of territory and competitiveness when considering that the economic success of the companies in the present time is related to specific elements of regional localities where they are inserted through its resources, organizations, institutions and externalities. This way, the notion of Local Productive Arrangements (APL) takes place as instrument of interchange between the search of competitiveness and the territorial base of the economic activity, articulating the local actors in common strategies for stress of business-oriented competitiveness of the environment, being latent such relationship in Minas Gerais south Circuit Tourist of Knitted clothes. This is a region formed of small cities that had been specialized in clothes production to be sold in small shops, directed specially to the national market. The hypothesis is that the partner-productive configuration of the Circuit approaches to the idea of Local Productive Arrangement in consolidation phase, for account of the accumulation of these existing companies and partner-institutional bases being settled. Finally, a study of the "territorial competitiveness" is considered, approaching the strategies of concurrence of the region to the use of specific resources of the territory by defining the main categories of the modern competitiveness. / Mestre