Atualmente doenças ocupacionais manifestadas nas mãos, como hiperqueratinização, escamação, desidratação e fissuras profundas são frequentemente relatadas por profissionais como médicos, enfermeiros, dentistas, mecânicos e donas de casa. O uso frequente de luvas e o contato constante com substâncias químicas como detergentes e sabões são as principais causas. O tratamento é feito pelo uso de corticóides tópicos, o que a longo prazo pode causar aumento das infecções no local de aplicação, devido ao efeito colateral de inibição do sistema imune destes fármacos. Isto exposto, fica evidenciada a importância da profilaxia e boa hidratação como alternativas de tratamento. O emprego de matérias-primas vegetais em formulações cosméticas atende ao apelo de sustentabilidade e biocompatibilidade tão buscado pelas empresas do setor. Óleos como o de andiroba e copaíba são tradicionalmente empregados pois podem apresentar potencial antibiótico e antiinflamatório. As manteigas de cacau e cupuaçu possuem alto teor de ácidos graxos, o que lhes confere potencial poder hidratante. Óleos e manteigas vegetais apresentam ainda potencial na formação de estruturas lamelares, as quais melhoram a estabilidade e aumentam o poder hidratante da formulação onde estão presentes. Esta pesquisa teve como objetivo o desenvolvimento de um creme à base de matérias primas vegetais, destinado à profissionais acometidos de doenças ocupacionais nas mãos. Foram manipuladas formulações com os óleos de copaíba e andiroba, aditivadas de manteigas de cacau e cupuaçu. Diversos pares de tensoativo foram pesquisados a fim empregar aquele que produzisse melhor estabilidade e permitisse a formação de estruturas lamelares. Quando empregados os tensoativos PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate / Steareth-2 em emulsões com valores de EHL final 7 e 9, foi obtida boa estabilidade preliminar e observada presença de estruturas lamelares. Foi avaliado o comportamento destas frente à evaporação da água e foi observado que mesmo em pequenas concentrações ou após evaporação da água livre do sistema, as estruturas lamelares se mantêm presentes, sugerindo armazenamento de água entre as lamelas. A caracterização por difração de raios-X em alto ângulo (WAXS) permitiu observar que as cadeias carbônicas que compõem a bicamada ao redor dos glóbulos internos da emulsão estão dispostas em um estado ordenado denominado fase gel. A análise por difração de raio-X a baixo ângulo (SAXS) confirmou que os tensoativos estão organizados em multicamadas lamelares intercaladas por camadas de água que se mantiveram estáveis mesmo após três meses de envelhecimento em temperatura ambiente. A avaliação reológica mostrou comportamento pseudo-plástico com tixotropia e ligeiro aumento da viscosidade com o tempo, porém, não confirmou boa estabilidade. Por meio dos testes in vivo observou-se que as formulações desenvolvidas promoveram aumento da hidratação a qual foi prolongada em relação à formulação de mercado. / Currently occupational diseases manifested in the hands, as hyperkeratinazation, scaling, dehydration and deep fissures are frequently reported by professionals such as doctors, nurses, dentists, mechanics and housewives. The frequent use of gloves and constant contact with chemical such as detergents and soaps are the main cause. The treatment is done by the use of topical steroids, which in the long term may cause increased infections in the application site, due to side effect of inhibiting the immune system of these drugs. This exposed, the importance of proper hydration as prophylaxis and treatment alternatives is evidenced. The use of vegetable raw materials in cosmetic formulations attends the sustainability and biocompatibility appeal so sought by the cosmetics business sector. Oils such as Andiroba and Copaiba are traditionally used for their antibiotic and anti-inflammatory potential. Cocoa and Cupuassu butters have high levels of fatty acids, giving them potential moisturizing power. Vegetable oils and butters have yet a potential in formation of lamellar structures, which improve stability and increase the moisturizing power of the formulations where they are present. This research aimed to develop a cream based on vegetable raw materials destined to professionals suffering from occupational disease in the hands. Formulations were manipulated with Copaiba and Andiroba oils added with Cocoa and Cupassu butter. Several pairs of surfactant were investigated to employ one that produces better stability and allow the formation of anisotropic lamellar structures. When employed the following pair of surfactants PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate / Steareth-2 in emulsions with required HLB of 7 and 9, good preliminary stability was obtained and lamellar structures were observed. We evaluated their behavior against water evaporation and we observed that even in small concentrations or after free water evaporation, lamellar structures are still present, suggesting water storage between the lamellae. Characterization by X-ray diffraction at wide angle (WAXS) elucidated that he carbon chains composing the bilayer around the emulsions internal globules are disposed in an ordered state called gel phase. The analysis by small angle X-ray diffraction (SAXS) confirmed that the surfactants are arranged in multilayered lamellae intercalated by layers of water that remained stable even after three months aging at room temperature. The rheological evaluation showed pseudo-plastic behavior with thixotropy and slight increase in viscosity with time, however, not confirmed good stability. The in vivo tests showed that the formulations caused an increase in hydration which was prolonged in relation to the formulation from the market.

Atualmente doenças ocupacionais manifestadas nas mãos, como hiperqueratinização, escamação, desidratação e fissuras profundas são frequentemente relatadas por profissionais como médicos, enfermeiros, dentistas, mecânicos e donas de casa. O uso frequente de luvas e o contato constante com substâncias químicas como detergentes e sabões são as principais causas. O tratamento é feito pelo uso de corticóides tópicos, o que a longo prazo pode causar aumento das infecções no local de aplicação, devido ao efeito colateral de inibição do sistema imune destes fármacos. Isto exposto, fica evidenciada a importância da profilaxia e boa hidratação como alternativas de tratamento. O emprego de matérias-primas vegetais em formulações cosméticas atende ao apelo de sustentabilidade e biocompatibilidade tão buscado pelas empresas do setor. Óleos como o de andiroba e copaíba são tradicionalmente empregados pois podem apresentar potencial antibiótico e antiinflamatório. As manteigas de cacau e cupuaçu possuem alto teor de ácidos graxos, o que lhes confere potencial poder hidratante. Óleos e manteigas vegetais apresentam ainda potencial na formação de estruturas lamelares, as quais melhoram a estabilidade e aumentam o poder hidratante da formulação onde estão presentes. Esta pesquisa teve como objetivo o desenvolvimento de um creme à base de matérias primas vegetais, destinado à profissionais acometidos de doenças ocupacionais nas mãos. Foram manipuladas formulações com os óleos de copaíba e andiroba, aditivadas de manteigas de cacau e cupuaçu. Diversos pares de tensoativo foram pesquisados a fim empregar aquele que produzisse melhor estabilidade e permitisse a formação de estruturas lamelares. Quando empregados os tensoativos PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate / Steareth-2 em emulsões com valores de EHL final 7 e 9, foi obtida boa estabilidade preliminar e observada presença de estruturas lamelares. Foi avaliado o comportamento destas frente à evaporação da água e foi observado que mesmo em pequenas concentrações ou após evaporação da água livre do sistema, as estruturas lamelares se mantêm presentes, sugerindo armazenamento de água entre as lamelas. A caracterização por difração de raios-X em alto ângulo (WAXS) permitiu observar que as cadeias carbônicas que compõem a bicamada ao redor dos glóbulos internos da emulsão estão dispostas em um estado ordenado denominado fase gel. A análise por difração de raio-X a baixo ângulo (SAXS) confirmou que os tensoativos estão organizados em multicamadas lamelares intercaladas por camadas de água que se mantiveram estáveis mesmo após três meses de envelhecimento em temperatura ambiente. A avaliação reológica mostrou comportamento pseudo-plástico com tixotropia e ligeiro aumento da viscosidade com o tempo, porém, não confirmou boa estabilidade. Por meio dos testes in vivo observou-se que as formulações desenvolvidas promoveram aumento da hidratação a qual foi prolongada em relação à formulação de mercado. / Currently occupational diseases manifested in the hands, as hyperkeratinazation, scaling, dehydration and deep fissures are frequently reported by professionals such as doctors, nurses, dentists, mechanics and housewives. The frequent use of gloves and constant contact with chemical such as detergents and soaps are the main cause. The treatment is done by the use of topical steroids, which in the long term may cause increased infections in the application site, due to side effect of inhibiting the immune system of these drugs. This exposed, the importance of proper hydration as prophylaxis and treatment alternatives is evidenced. The use of vegetable raw materials in cosmetic formulations attends the sustainability and biocompatibility appeal so sought by the cosmetics business sector. Oils such as Andiroba and Copaiba are traditionally used for their antibiotic and anti-inflammatory potential. Cocoa and Cupuassu butters have high levels of fatty acids, giving them potential moisturizing power. Vegetable oils and butters have yet a potential in formation of lamellar structures, which improve stability and increase the moisturizing power of the formulations where they are present. This research aimed to develop a cream based on vegetable raw materials destined to professionals suffering from occupational disease in the hands. Formulations were manipulated with Copaiba and Andiroba oils added with Cocoa and Cupassu butter. Several pairs of surfactant were investigated to employ one that produces better stability and allow the formation of anisotropic lamellar structures. When employed the following pair of surfactants PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate / Steareth-2 in emulsions with required HLB of 7 and 9, good preliminary stability was obtained and lamellar structures were observed. We evaluated their behavior against water evaporation and we observed that even in small concentrations or after free water evaporation, lamellar structures are still present, suggesting water storage between the lamellae. Characterization by X-ray diffraction at wide angle (WAXS) elucidated that he carbon chains composing the bilayer around the emulsions internal globules are disposed in an ordered state called gel phase. The analysis by small angle X-ray diffraction (SAXS) confirmed that the surfactants are arranged in multilayered lamellae intercalated by layers of water that remained stable even after three months aging at room temperature. The rheological evaluation showed pseudo-plastic behavior with thixotropy and slight increase in viscosity with time, however, not confirmed good stability. The in vivo tests showed that the formulations caused an increase in hydration which was prolonged in relation to the formulation from the market.

This thesis explores the contributive role of architecture to the prosperity of a place. The research addresses the challenges and opportunities that rural regions face today by analyzing the general factors of marginalized rural communities through the lens of a specific community in mainland Portugal. A new approach for maintaining an authentic character, and a “sense of place” is presented which defends rural space as a genuinely experiential realm. The thesis proposes the design of a modern day treatment and research centre in the rural town of Manteigas, situated on one of the largest glacier valleys in Europe in the heart of the Serra da Estrela mountain range. Once alive with all the quaint characteristics that typify an idyllic rural identity, this town now faces a steep population decrease. Situated in the centre of the Zêzere glacial valley overlooking the town, the design accepts and interprets the natural geology of the site, harnessing the therapeutic thermal waters that continue to flow from the glacier line of the valley. The new centre represents not just a place for leisure and relaxation, but also an investigative laboratory for modern day natural healing therapies. The town of Manteigas is situated within three very distinct landscapes: a fertile landscape, a socio-cultural landscape, and a landscape of health and wellness. The design intervention responds to all these conditions and is dependent on each in its operation. This thesis is a proposal for a sustainable cycle of local and regional rejuvenation that will not be easily broken. The design proposal aims to build an infrastructure that will revive the identity of the community as a place of study and implementation of natural healing. The proposed design will also act as a catalyst to fuel future development and stimulate the local and regional economies.

This thesis explores the contributive role of architecture to the prosperity of a place. The research addresses the challenges and opportunities that rural regions face today by analyzing the general factors of marginalized rural communities through the lens of a specific community in mainland Portugal. A new approach for maintaining an authentic character, and a “sense of place” is presented which defends rural space as a genuinely experiential realm. The thesis proposes the design of a modern day treatment and research centre in the rural town of Manteigas, situated on one of the largest glacier valleys in Europe in the heart of the Serra da Estrela mountain range. Once alive with all the quaint characteristics that typify an idyllic rural identity, this town now faces a steep population decrease. Situated in the centre of the Zêzere glacial valley overlooking the town, the design accepts and interprets the natural geology of the site, harnessing the therapeutic thermal waters that continue to flow from the glacier line of the valley. The new centre represents not just a place for leisure and relaxation, but also an investigative laboratory for modern day natural healing therapies. The town of Manteigas is situated within three very distinct landscapes: a fertile landscape, a socio-cultural landscape, and a landscape of health and wellness. The design intervention responds to all these conditions and is dependent on each in its operation. This thesis is a proposal for a sustainable cycle of local and regional rejuvenation that will not be easily broken. The design proposal aims to build an infrastructure that will revive the identity of the community as a place of study and implementation of natural healing. The proposed design will also act as a catalyst to fuel future development and stimulate the local and regional economies.