Il presente lavoro si inserisce nel filone degli studi terminologici francesi con l’analisi della terminologia della moda, di cui è indagato, quale campo di ricerca privilegiato, il settore del vêtement d’extérieur. Viene adottato un modello descrittivo ampio, fondato sulla riconciliazione teorica e metodologica tra diacronia e sincronia e su un approccio interdisciplinare alla disciplina terminologica. Lo studio è articolato in due parti: la prima sezione è dedicata alla ricostruzione della terminologia del vêtement d’extérieur in diacronia. Dopo una premessa metodologica circa la redazione delle schede terminologiche, è tracciato il percorso che conduce, dal ristretto nucleo di unità terminologiche in antico francese, alla complessa rete lessicale nel francese contemporaneo. Nella seconda sezione, sono approfondite le dimensioni applicate, che vanno dall’elaborazione informatica di ontoterminologie allo studio della variazione terminologica in contesti professionali eterogenei, fino alla rassegna di prodotti lessicografici e terminografici della moda, in contesti di comunicazione monolingue e plurilingue. Infine, dopo aver enucleato l’approccio alla terminologia, si ripercorrono i risultati salienti della ricerca e si delineano ulteriori prospettive di indagine. / This work analyses the French terminology of fashion, particularly the field of the outerwear, within the framework of French terminological research. A broad descriptive model is adopted, based on the theoretical and methodological reconciliation between diachrony and synchrony, as well as on an interdisciplinary approach to terminology. The study is divided into two parts: the former is devoted to the historical reconstruction of the outerwear terminology. After a methodological introduction about term records, we trace the path leading from the small group of terminological units in Old French to the complex lexical network in contemporary French. In the latter section, the applied dimensions are explored, including the construction of “ontoterminologies”, the study of terminology variation in heterogeneous professional contexts, and the list of lexicographical and terminographic resources for fashion, both in monolingual and multilingual communication. Finally, the description of the approach to terminology is followed by the main results of the research and by further perspectives of study.

Denna studie är ett examensarbete utfört under sista året av tre på Sportteknologiprogrammet vid Mittuniversitetet i Östersund. Syftet med studien är att ge det svenska klädföretaget Didriksons svar på frågan om vilken av de vadderingar använda i deras produktion besitter bäst isoleringsförmåga och vilka faktorer som kan påverka den. Målet var att kunna presentera ett fullgott resultat från alla studier för Didriksons som de senare förhoppningsvis kan ha hjälp utav i sin fortsatta produktutveckling. För att besvara frågan har tester av 9 likvärdiga jackor tillverkade med olika isoleringsmaterial och konstruktionsprinciper utförts i laboratorium, bland annat i kylkammaren på Nationellt Vintersportcentrum tillsammans med vindtunneln och textillaboratoriet på Sports Tech Research Centre vid Mittuniversitetet i Östersund. Testerna har inte följt någon standard utan är utvecklade tillsammans med studenten, Didriksons och personer med expertis inom området vid universitetet. Undersökningen har visat att den jacka som hade den bästa isoleringsförmågan var den isolerad med syntetiskt dun. Studien har också påvisat att så kallade cold spots, i form av sömmar, dragkedjor och andra attiraljer som på något sätt stör vadderingen, har stor påverkan på isoleringsförmågan. Jackor med samma typ av isolering men med olika mängd av cold spots har presterat bäst respektive sämst i testerna. De olika vadderingarna har även undersökts i laboratorium för att se dess vindtäthet och analysera dess mikrostruktur, allt för att skapa förståelse för materialens olika egenskaper. / This study is a thesis during the last semester of three years at the SportsTechnology program at the Mid Sweden University in Östersund. Theaim of the study is to give the swedish clothing brand Didriksons ananswer to the question of which padding used in their production thathas the best thermal insulation properties and which factors that mayhave an impact on it. The goal for this study is to present a satisfactoryresult for Didriksons from all the executed tests combined which laterhopefully will help them within their product development. To answerthat question, nine equal jackets with different isolation materials andways of construction have been tested in various laboratories such as thecold chamber at National Wintersport Centre and the wind tunnel atSports Tech Research Centre all within the Mid Sweden University. Thetests have not been according to any ISO-standards or such, but hasbeen produced by the student together with Didriksons and researcherswith expertise within the subject at the university. Studies showed thatthe jacket with the best thermal isolation property was the onefabricated with synthetic down. The study also showed that so calledcold spots, stiches, zippers and so on, may affect the padding whichresults in a big negative impact to the thermal isolation, especially whenthe garment is exposed to wind. Jackets with the same type of paddingbut different amounts of cold spots have delivered the best and theworst results during the tests. The different paddings have also beeninvestigated in laboratories to see how they withstand wind and toanalyze their micro structure. All this to get a better understanding ofthe materials and its various properties.