The aim of this diploma thesis was to find out the change of the hue lightness saturation after the change of composition of dyeing liquor. The reactive dye Bezaktiv rot S-B was used for dyeing cotton. Dyeing was performed in the laboratory by exhaustion method with two concentrations of dye 0,5 and 2 %. The influence of the change of alkali and electrolyte concentration additions to dyeing bath liquor at different liquors dye ratio was studied. Sodium chloride and Glauber's salt as elektrolyte were used. The dyed samples were washed and then fixed by two types of fixative agents REWIN ACP and REWIN EL. After that the measurement of hue control and the evaluation of fastness to water and rubbing fastness were done. The results were displayed in L*a*b* space and CIE differences between chosen standards and samples were performed by Datacolor International DC 3890.

The textile industry is a big environmental polluter, with one of the biggest concerns being water pollution and usage. This necessitates resource efficient methods for wet textile processes. To reduce the resources used during wet textile processing, a novel technology was researched in this thesis to dye and hydrophobic finish wool in a one-step process. Two different wool fabrics were exhaust dyed and pad finished as a conventional method to compare to dyeing and finishing in a two-step and one-step process with a hydraulic spray atomising system. In all three processes, acid and reactive dyes were used for dyeing and hyperbranched polymers, i.e. dendrimers, were used for hydrophobic finishing. To test the colour and hydrophobicity fastness, washing and abrasion tests were done on the samples of all three processes. It was found that there is a big colour difference between the conventional and hydraulic spray method, where the colour is less strong in the hydraulic spray method. This has to do with the difference in the dye fixation step, where in the conventional method, the dye fixation happens in an aqueous medium, and in the hydraulic spray this happens in a nonaqueous medium. The hydrophobicity is however significantly better in the samples finished in the hydraulic spray, as this is rather a surface treatment. The results in colour and contact angle between the two-step and one-step process did not significantly change, so it can be concluded that it is possible to combine dyeing and finishing in the hydraulic spray method. The colour and hydrophobic fastness to abrasion and washing is significantly worse for the samples of the hydraulic spray method compared to the conventional method. The hydraulic spray method can still be optimised to overcome problems with colour and fastness, however this is future work. The hydraulic spray method uses significantly less water, chemicals and energy in a two-step process, and even more in a one-step process. Therefore, it has the potential to reduce the use of water, chemicals and energy in wet textile processing, for all types of fibres, and thus strongly contribute to a more environmental conscious wet textile process.

A reactive-ionic functional group was incorporated into the structure of fiber finishes and colorants to provide high-yield add-on and permanency. The reactive-ionic group consists of a moderately strained, cyclic ammonium group which undergoes ionic assembly on the surface of negatively charged substrates. The ionic bond is then converted to a covalent bond at elevated temperatures via a ring-opening reaction. A reactive-ionic alkyl (wax) finish was prepared from octadecanol and N-phenyl pyrrolidine then applied to a glass slide to provide a permanent, hydrophobic surface with an average contact angle increase of approximately 40°. A reactive-ionic fluorinated finish was prepared from 1H,1H,2H,2H-perfluoro-1-octanol and N-phenyl pyrrolidine and after application served as a permanent, non-wetting, anti-stain finish for nylon carpet. A reactive-ionic chromophore (dye) was prepared from C.I. Disperse Red 1 and quinuclidine. The reactive-ionic dye was applied to cellophane and nylon films and bleached cotton, nylon and silk fabrics. The percent exhaustion for a 1% owf dyeing of silk fabric was measured to be 98% using visible light absorbance spectrophotometry. K/S values obtained from reflectance spectrophotometric measurements of a 1% owf dyeing of nylon 6,6 fabric showed a 6% color loss after solvent extraction, indicating that the dyeing was indeed permanent.