This study arises out of the researcher’s experience in the fields of costume and fashion. It develops, through design practice and reflection, a design process for fashion wear made from post-consumer recycled materials. Theoretical analysis provides global, historical, philosophical and design contexts within which to develop an ethos for this variant form of fashion wear designated ReFashion. Differences in design process between conventional fashion and ReFashion are detailed to highlight the significance of provenance of materials in the light of a perceived need to slow down clothing production and consumption. This perception is informed by scientific predictions that failure to engage with urgently needed changes to the prevalent economic paradigm will result in planet earth reaching a tipping point with potentially disastrous results for its inhabitants. Fundamental to the ReFashion ethos is preparedness for a speculative post-apocalyptic future that might render the fashion system unable to operate as it currently does, necessitating a more self-sufficient approach to clothing needs, with an accompanying shift in perceptions of what is deemed fashionable. The theme Survivalist Fantasy provides a lens to bring conceptual and material aspects of the work into focus. Informed by sustainability, Survivalist Fantasy recontextualises a failure of sustainable initiatives on a global scale and their adaptation on a local scale specifically in the arena of clothing.

Resíduos plásticos, descartados de placas de publicidade compostas por poliestireno de alto impacto (HIPS), foram reciclados para obtenção de tubos que servem como base de painel de propaganda. O material foi avaliado nas diferentes etapas de reprocessamento, onde sua estrutura foi caracterizada por espectroscopia na região do infravermelho (FTIR) e ressonância magnética nuclear de núcleo de hidrogênio (1H-RMN). Suas propriedades térmicas, mecânicas e morfológicas, também foram estudadas. Os testes e análises instrumentais, aos quais foram submetidos o material ao longo de todo reprocessamento, demonstraram que não houve modificações significativas na estrutura química, na morfologia e no comportamento térmico e mecânico do material. / Plastics residues from advertising plates were recycled for attainment of pipes that serve as base of advertising panels. These residues were composed by high impact polystyrene (HIPS) and the polymer structures were characterized by spectroscopy in the infrared region (FTIR) and hydrogen nuclear magnetic resonance (1H-NMR). Its thermal, mechanical and morphological properties, had been also studied. The instrumental tests and analyses, to which the material had been submitted, had demonstrated that there was not significant modifications in the chemical structure, in the morphology and in the thermal and mechanical behavior of the material after being recycled.

Resíduos plásticos, descartados de placas de publicidade compostas por poliestireno de alto impacto (HIPS), foram reciclados para obtenção de tubos que servem como base de painel de propaganda. O material foi avaliado nas diferentes etapas de reprocessamento, onde sua estrutura foi caracterizada por espectroscopia na região do infravermelho (FTIR) e ressonância magnética nuclear de núcleo de hidrogênio (1H-RMN). Suas propriedades térmicas, mecânicas e morfológicas, também foram estudadas. Os testes e análises instrumentais, aos quais foram submetidos o material ao longo de todo reprocessamento, demonstraram que não houve modificações significativas na estrutura química, na morfologia e no comportamento térmico e mecânico do material. / Plastics residues from advertising plates were recycled for attainment of pipes that serve as base of advertising panels. These residues were composed by high impact polystyrene (HIPS) and the polymer structures were characterized by spectroscopy in the infrared region (FTIR) and hydrogen nuclear magnetic resonance (1H-NMR). Its thermal, mechanical and morphological properties, had been also studied. The instrumental tests and analyses, to which the material had been submitted, had demonstrated that there was not significant modifications in the chemical structure, in the morphology and in the thermal and mechanical behavior of the material after being recycled.

Crossing the Cartography of Exile explores ideas of territoriality, hybrid identity and transculturation. The thesis and exhibition is the result of two years of Practice-Led Research, which is the performative research methodology, carried in the La Chapelle Woodshop of the 100 Laurier Avenue East Building of the Department of Visual Arts. The building was the former Juniorat du Sacré-Coeur of the Oblates of Mary Immaculate built in 1893-94. The Woodshop is the former chapel of the seminary therefore has references to a place of prayer and worship and for my praxis became a place to re-enact the ancient trade of Joseph the Carpenter. The La Chapelle Shipyard inside the woodshop as mnemonic site became a performative site-specific platform specialized in creating small-scale sculptures with recycled and repourposed shipping pallets and a place in which to connect memory with the ancient trade of a shipwright or shipbuilder. Small-scale sculpture then became a symbolic marker for the intimacy of a personal and free territory made of repurposed shipping pallets. Therefore, by working with recycled changeable materials I fashioned a poetic visual language to enchant the wound of exile.

El presente proyecto muestra la viabilidad de la ejecución del negocio de línea de útiles ecoamigables Muru, en base a la investigación realizada en Lima Metropolitana a ciudadanos de los niveles socioeconómicos A y B. Esta investigación permitió detectar que existe un segmento de consumidores que buscan poder adquirir útiles ecoamigables, hechos de materiales reciclados o que tengan un impacto negativo reducido en el medio ambiente, los cuales no encuentran con facilidad pues suelen ser vendidos al por mayor a clientes corporativos. Con el fin de que este proyecto se ponga en marcha el siguiente año (2020), se procuró analizar la industria a detalle, considerando las tendencias clave, las fuerzas de mercado, las fuerzas macroeconómicas, entre otras. Además, para lograr tener una mejor y más estructurada planificación, se desarrolló la estructura de la empresa, dividida de la siguiente forma: Plan de Marketing, Plan Financiero, Plan de Responsabilidad Social Empresarial, Plan de Recursos Humanos y Plan de Operaciones. Dentro de cada uno de ellos se contemplan las estrategias, actividades y recursos necesarios para que este proyecto sea viable cuando inicie sus operaciones. Se tuvo especial énfasis en el desarrollo del Plan Financiero para que las proyecciones contempladas en este sean lo más acertadas posible. Como resultado de lo mencionado, se obtuvo que para que el proyecto inicie su etapa operativa se necesita una inversión de 31,000 soles. Asimismo, luego de la inversión, las utilidades netas proyectadas son de 35,696.77; 93,400.48 y 136,959.96 soles para el primer, segundo y tercer año respectivamente. / The present project shows the viability of the execution of the Muru eco-friendly tool line business, based on the research carried out in Metropolitan Lima to the NSE "A" and "B" citizens. This investigation made it possible to detect that there is a segment of consumers who are looking to purchase eco-friendly tools, whether they are made from recycled materials or have a reduced impact on the environment, which consumers do not find easily because those are usually sold to corporate customers. In order to launch this project the next year (2020), it was attempted to analyze the industry in detail considering the key trends, market forces, macroeconomic forces, among others. In addition, in order to achieve a better and more structured planning, the company structure was developed, divided as follows: Marketing Plan, Financial Plan, Corporate Social Responsibility Plan, Human Resources Plan and the Operations Plan. Within each of the plans, the strategies, activities and resources that are needed for this project to be viable when in runs into operation are contemplated. Special emphasis was placed on the development of the Financial Plan so that its projections are as accurate as possible. As a result of the aforementioned, it was obtained that for the project to begin its operational phase an investment of 31,000 soles is needed. Also, after the investment, the projected net profits are 35,696.77; 93,400.48 and 136,959.96 soles for the first, second and third year respectively. / Trabajo de investigación

Ante la problemática que presentan los suelos arcillosos de alta plasticidad, como la vulnerabilidad a variaciones de volumen, produciendo asentamientos diferenciales ocasionando daños en las estructuras, es por factores como este que se decidió buscar una alternativa de mejora para sus parámetros como el incremento de la resistencia, ángulo de fricción y cohesión de un suelo arcilloso de alta plasticidad (CH). En la ejecución de una obra civil, estos parámetros generalmente no se ajustan a los requerimientos del proyecto, por tal razón se debe buscar una solución para la estabilidad del suelo implicado en cualquier construcción. La constante búsqueda del mejoramiento de las condiciones ambientales ha llevado a la utilización de los residuos del plástico para reforzar el suelo y mejorar sus propiedades mecánicas y físicas. Es por ello que de acuerdo con nuestra propuesta se intenta incrementar data para el uso de este material alternativo como propuesta de mejoramiento del suelo, obteniéndose resultados interesantes y distintos a lo hallado en otras investigaciones que utilizaron similares materiales. Se optó por la trituración del tereftalato de polietileno (PET) obteniendo un PET reciclado de 3-5 mm de longitud como material de refuerzo para mejorar las propiedades mecánicas del suelo. De acuerdo con los ensayos de proctor estándar y corte directo, se determinó que el porcentaje óptimo de adición sea de 1% debido a que se observó un mejor comportamiento del material de estudio con respecto a las otras mezclas analizadas con 0.5%, 2.5% y 3.5%. / To the problems posed by clay soils of high plasticity, such as vulnerability to variations in volume, producing differential settlements causing damage to structures, it is due to factors such as this it was decided to seek an alternative enhancement to parameters such as increased resistance, friction angle and cohesion of a high plasticity clay soil (CH). In the execution of civil works, these parameters generally do not conform to the requirements of the project, for that reason should seek a solution for the stability of the soil involved in any construction. The constant search for improving environmental conditions has led to the use of waste plastic to reinforce the soil and improve its mechanical and physical properties. That is why according to our proposal we try to increase data for the use of this alternative material as a soil improvement proposal, obtaining interesting and different results to that found in other investigations that used similar materials. We chose crushing polyethylene terephthalate (PET) obtaining a recycled PET 3-5 mm length as a reinforcing material to stabilize and improve the mechanical properties of the soil. According to the standard proctor and direct shear tests, it was determined that the optimal percentage of addition is 1% because a better behavior of the study material was observed with respect to the other mixtures analyzed with 0.5%, 2.5% and 3.5%. / Tesis

This thesis is concerned with developing porous materials from tyre shred residue and polyurethane binder for acoustic absorption and thermal insulation applications. The resultant materials contains a high proportion of open, interconnected cells that are able to absorb incident sound waves through viscous friction, inertia effects and thermal energy exchanges. The materials developed are also able to insulate against heat by suppressing the convection of heat and reduced conductivity of the fluid locked in the large proportion of close-cell pores. The acoustic absorption performance of a porous media is controlled by the number of open cells and pore size distribution. Therefore, this work also investigates the use of catalysts and surfactants to modify the pore structure and studies the influence of the various components in the chemical formulations used to produce these porous materials. An optimum type and amounts of catalyst are selected to obtain a high chemical conversion and a short expanding time for the bubble growth phase. The surfactant is used to reduce the surface tension and achieve a homogenous mixing between the solid particulates tyre shred residue, the water, the catalyst and the binder. It is found that all of the components significantly affect the resultant materials structure and its morphology. The results show that the catalyst has a particularly strong effect on the pore structure and the ensuing thermal and acoustical properties. In this research, the properties of the porous materials developed are characterized using standard experimental techniques and the acoustic and thermal insulation performance underpinned using theoretical models. The important observation from this research is that a new class of recycled materials with pore stratification has been developed. It is shown that the pore stratification can have a positive effect on the acoustic absorption in a broadband frequency range. The control of reaction time in the foaming process is a key function that leads to a gradual change in the pore size distribution, porosity, flow resistivity and tortuosity which vary as a function of sample depth. It is shown that the Pade approximation is a suitable model to study the acoustic behaviour of these materials. A good agreement between the measured data and the model was attained.

A utilização de misturas asfálticas recicladas com alto teor de material fresado (RAP) tem se tornado atrativa nos últimos anos por ser uma opção sustentável e que permite reduções de custo nas obras de pavimentação. No entanto, a produção dessas misturas sem prejuízo ao seu desempenho em campo ainda é um desafio. Diferentemente do que ocorre na reciclagem a frio, nas reciclagens a quente e morna o ligante envelhecido presente no RAP é mobilizado, ou ativado, mas é difícil mensurar em que grau isso ocorre. Dessa forma, a dosagem é feita de forma imprecisa, podendo comprometer o desempenho da mistura reciclada final. O presente trabalho tem como objetivo analisar a aplicabilidade de procedimentos laboratoriais para a avaliação da ativação do ligante presente no material fresado e da interação entre os ligantes (velho do RAP e novo adicionado), em misturas asfálticas recicladas através dos processos a quente e morno. O método de análise da ativação do ligante foi aplicado em diferentes tipos de material fresado, e um procedimento de extração por etapas foi desenvolvido para analisar o grau de interação entre ligantes na reciclagem. Neste processo, a extração do ligante asfáltico presente na mistura é realizada em etapas, de forma a separá-lo em camadas, e os ligantes obtidos em cada etapa são recuperados, sendo avaliada a homogeneidade entre eles por meio de ensaios reológicos. Os resultados mostraram que é possível obter informações relevantes acerca dos mecanismos de ativação e de interação entre ligantes por meio dos métodos analisados, principalmente em relação à presença de polímero no RAP e na identificação do grau de interação entre ligantes. / The production of recycled asphalt mixtures with high contents of reclaimed asphalt pavement (RAP) has become attractive in the past few years, as it is a sustainable solution which allows considerable cost reductions. However, the production of these mixtures without losing performance in the field is still a challenge. Different from what happens on cold recycling, on hot and warm recycling processes the aged asphalt binder present in the RAP is activated, and it is difficult to determine the degree to which this happens. As a result, the mix design is often not done properly, what might compromise mixture performance. The present study aims to analyze the applicability of laboratory procedures to evaluate the RAP binder activation and the blending between fresh and RAP binders, in hot and warm recycled asphalt mixtures. The method for evaluating RAP binder activation was applied to different types of RAP, and a staged extraction method was developed to assess the degree of binder blending in recycled mixtures. In this process, binder extraction is conducted in three steps, dividing the binder in three layers. The binder layers obtained are recovered, and the homogeneity between them is determined through rheological testing. The results obtained showed it is possible to obtain relevant information by applying the studied methods, especially regarding the presence of polymer in the RAP and the degree of blending in recycled mixtures.

Esta tese apresenta o estudo das placas recicladas provenientes de embalagens Longa Vida. São compostas principalmente por polietileno de baixa densidade, alumínio e resíduos de papel. Embora as placas recicladas sejam tratadas como sustentáveis e aplicadas nas edificações com resultados positivos, são poucos os dados publicados que apresentam sua caracterização geral. Outros problemas foram identificados, como a necessidade de melhoria na tecnologia para produção, dificuldade na aceitação estética e pouco design incorporado aos produtos e objetos resultantes. Apesar dos problemas, a observação do uso crescente dessas placas resultou no traçado da hipótese desta pesquisa: as placas podem ser mais eficientes e atrativas para especificação, se utilizadas com design incorporado aos componentes arquitetônicos. A partir disso, o trabalho busca dois objetivos essenciais: traçar um perfil de caracterização técnica e de design relacionados ao material e, a partir desse repertório, apresentar propostas projetuais alternativas para uso na arquitetura. Para tanto, foram estudadas as conceituações sobre materialidade, as abordagens técnicas, estéticas e culturais e a reciclagem e produção das placas, além de ensaios térmicos de condutividade térmica e calor específico, absortância, envelhecimento acelerado em câmera de UV e o ensaio complementar de transição vítrea. A caracterização estética gerou dados sistematizados sobre textura, tamanho, espessura e estudos compositivos com outros materiais. Por fim, foram criadas três propostas projetuais como indicativos de novas possibilidades de uso das placas. Este estudo concluiu que as placas de polietileno-alumínio podem ser utilizadas em várias superfícies arquitetônicas, desde que cuidadosamente incorporadas aos sistemas, prezando-se a qualidade da produção, projeto, design e acabamento. / This thesis presents the study of plates from recycled cartoon packaging. They are composed mainly of low density polyethylene, aluminum and paper waste. Although the plates are treated as recycled and sustainable, applied in building with positive results, there are few published data to show their general characterization. Other problems were identified: need for improvement of production technology, difficulty in accepting some design aesthetics and few design incorporated to the products and the resulting objects. Despite the problems, the observation of the growing use of these plates resulted in the design of the hypothesis of this research: the plates can be more efficient and attractive to specification if used with design incorporated into the architectural components. Based on this, the work seeks two essential goals: a profile of technical characterization and design-related material, and from this repertoire, present proposals about design alternatives for use in architecture. To this end, were studied the concepts of materiality, in technical, aesthetics and cultural approaches and the recycling and production of plates, besides the thermal tests of thermal conductivity and specific heat, absorptance, accelerated aging and UV camera and additional test of glass transition. The aesthetic characterizations generated systematic data on texture, size, thickness and compositional studies with other materials. Finally, were created three project proposals as indicative of new possibilities to use the plates. Through this study it can be concluded that the polyethylene-aluminum plates can be used in various architectural surfaces, as long as they are carefully incorporated into the systems, maintaining the quality the quality of production, design and finish.

Drivers for sustainability have made it necessary for the construction industry to adapt its traditional processes to become both more efficient and produce less waste. Performance based design and specification in the UK for motorways and trunk roads permits a very flexible approach to pavement design, material selection and performance related testing aimed at utilising materials to their maximum potential. However, it is clear that within the emerging philosophy of using materials that are 'fit for purpose' there are many technical challenges for design and specification. There is a need to develop suitable methods of evaluating materials prior to their being used on site. This project was born out of this requirement, with a particular emphasis on coarse granular materials due to their common role in capping construction and also their unique difficulty for measurement under laboratory conditions due to their large range of particle size. A novel assessment test for coarse capping materials for roads that can be used to indicate their likely short-term in situ performance, under controlled laboratory conditions before construction on site, has been developed during this research programme. Key findings relating to the behaviour of coarse capping materials, the use of stiffness measuring devices and variables that influence the measurement of composite stiffness are discussed in detail. The research highlights the necessity for adequate drainage and protection of foundation materials against increase in water content. When adopting a performance specification the timing of the pavement assessment is critical, both on site and in the laboratory. The performance measured on site should perhaps only be considered as a 'snapshot' relating to the stress state in the material at the time of testing.