The interaction between rip channels and cuspate shoreline was examined by analyzing data obtained by the Naval Postgraduate School Imaging System (NAPSIS) during the winter of 2004-2005 in Southern Monterey Bay. Video imaging data was used to determine rip channel locations. The rip fields had constantly changing shapes and sizes, and the beach underwent a transformation from a Transverse-barred-beach (TBB) to a Longshore-bar-trough (LBT) state. Mean rip spacing was determined to be 173 and 258m respectively for the two different beach states (TBB and LBT). Directional wave spectra measured at the offshore NOAA buoy in deep water were refracted to the 10m depth contour at the actual study site. Estimated alongshore sediment transport, Qs, was calculated using the refracted wave data. The hypothesis that rip channel migration is due to alongshore sediment transport is qualitatively confirmed. Little or no migration occurred when Qs values were close to zero. Migration rates were calculated over a three week period during a time of high rip mobility with an average migration rate of 3.2m per day. The rip channel orientations were constantly changing. Three distinct rip channel shapes were common: straight, slanted, or C shaped. The rip channels tended to slant in the opposite direction of the estimated sediment transport, since the rip channels migrated more rapidly at their base (nearest to shore) and more slowly offshore. The hypothesis that the mega-cusps on the beach are erosional features of rip currents was tested by crosscorrelating the 2m beach contour obtained using GPS beach surveys with an alongshore video pixel intensity line. During a time of steady rip channel migration, it was found on average that the cusps lagged the rip channels by 50m with a maximum correlation near one. Assuming the system is in steady state, a response time of 14.7 days was obtained by dividing the lag distance by the average migration rate.

Video imaging data generated from the Naval Postgraduate School Imaging System (NAPSIS) during November 2004 to June 2006 was analyzed to determine the location of rip channels and track their morphology. During the study period, the rip fields constantly changed in shape, size, and location. Rip channels were found to have a mean migration southward at a rate of 0.16 meters per day with a standard deviation of 7.6 meters per day and maximum rates varying between approximately 30 meters per day north and 30 meters per day south. The migration exhibited a strong seasonal variation with southerly shifts in the fall and winter months, northerly shifts in the late winter and early spring months, and no significant shift in the late spring and summer months. Directional wave spectra measured every hour at the offshore NOAA buoy were refracted to the 10 meter depth contour at Marina and Sand City and compared with measured spectra at these locations. The significant wave heights at both locations exhibited a correlation of 0.94. Mean wave directions for Marina and Sand City were found to have correlations of 0.83 and 0.34, respectively. These refracted data were then used to calculate sediment transport rates at Stillwell Hall, Fort Ord. Rip channel migration and calculated sediment transport rates were correlated at 0.8, qualitatively confirming the hypothesis that the migration rate of rip channels is a function of modeled alongshore sediment transport. The sometimes rapid migration of these large scale morphological features is critical to the successful planning and execution of U.S. Navy and Marine Corps beach assaults and the operation of mine warfare. Because amphibious and special forces operate mainly in shallow areas, the modeling of rip current direction and magnitude contributes greatly to effective mission organization and accomplishment. In addition to causing mines to drift, rip currents transport sediment that can cause the underlying morphology to change, possibly covering bottom mines and creating a potential hazard for military forces operating in the area. Being able to predict where mines may be drifting and how much sediment has concealed them is a necessity in securing a littoral battlespace.

The research presented in this dissertation focuses on understanding the dynamics of waves and currents in the presence of wave breaking. The simplest approach, direct numerical simulation of the ocean dynamics, is computationally prohibitive--waves typically have periods of tens of seconds, while currents vary on times from hours to days. This work uses a multi-scale asymptotic theory for the waves and currents (Craik and Leibovich, 1976; McWilliams et al., 2004}, similar to Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes, in order to avoid resolving the wave field. The theory decomposes the total flow into the mean flow (current) and fluctuations (waves), then takes a moving time average of the total flow equations to determine the wave forcing on the current. The main challenge is extending this theory to include a physical model for dissipative wave effects, notably breaking, in terms of the wave age, wind speed, and bottom topography. Wave breaking is difficult to observe, model, and predict, because it is an unsteady, non-linear process that takes place over disparate scales in both space and time. In the open ocean, white-capping often covers less than 2% of the surface, yet still plays an important role in the flux of mass, momentum, heat, and chemicals between the atmosphere and ocean. The first part of this dissertation proposes a stochastic model for white-capping events, and examines the stability of the ensemble average of these events. Near the shore, the decreasing ocean depth causes waves to overturn and break. Over time, this drives currents that erode sediment from beaches and deposit it around coastal structures. These currents are often so strong that their effect on the wave field, and thus their own forcing, is significant. A detailed analysis of this phenomena makes up the second part of this dissertation.

Rip currents present a severe hazard to water users worldwide, resulting in over 100 drownings and thousands of lifeguard rescues annually. This thesis examines the demographics of who is effected by rip currents in the UK, what activity they are undertaking, when and where incidents occur, how much the public know, what people have experienced, and how best to educate them. Analysis of 7909 rip current lifeguard rescues (16777 people) across the UK between 2006-2013 highlighted the most at risk group, and subsequent target audience for education, to be male teenagers aged between 13-17 years old (n=2906, 17%). Geographically, the highest incidents occurred on the beaches in the Southwest of England (n=6911, 87%). Incidents mostly occurred outside of lifeguard flagged areas (n=4302, 54%) and mainly involved those using bodyboards (n=5290, 52%). Through the analysis of 407 public beach-based rip current and beach safety questionnaires, it was established that beach users have a poor understanding of rip currents (n=263, 65%) but a good perception of the beach safety flags (n=389, 96%). People with greater knowledge were typically educated by a lifeguard, enter the sea more frequently or have been caught in rip currents themselves. The experiences of 553 people caught in rip currents were analysed using an online questionnaire. The gender split was 69% male (n= 382) to 31% female (n= 171), indicating that males are caught in rip currents more than females. Swimming directly to shore against the rip followed an initial panic (n=108, 34%) for most people caught in a rip. Swimming parallel to the beach was the most remembered, advised, utilised, and promoted safety message. Respondents advocated the use of lifeguards to disseminate rip current safety messages. A new and unique rip current education programme was developed from the synthesis of these results. A lifeguard delivered a pilot programme to 185 teenagers in three schools and two community groups in the Southwest of England. This interactive pilot consisted of exercises using videos, photographs, news reports, and a swimming machine. Levels of rip current knowledge were evaluated before and after, and at regular intervals, to assess knowledge retention. The short-term effects after 3 months were positive, showing statistically significant (p < 0.0005) improvements in mean knowledge levels. This thesis provides a new contribution to the expanding field of social and behavioural rip current research. The development of a unique rip current education programme presents an alternative method for increasing public awareness, and supports the worldwide prevention of rip current incidents and fatalities.

A coarse-grain parallelization of SHORECIRC - a quasi-3D nearshore circulation model is implemented. The parallelization is based on the message-passing model for distributed memory architectures using the Message Passing Interface (MPI) standard. The parallel model confirms to the Single Program Multiple Data (SPMD) model. The results from the parallel model have been verified against those from the sequential model for an exact match. The parallel code is portable across different parallel architectures and its performance in terms of speed-up and scalability is studied. A test case simulating rip currents is discussed.

Sand dune erosion is highly episodic occurring only when storm waves coincide with high tides generating swash that impacts the toe of the dune. Owing to the episodic nature of sand dune erosion, it is difficult to observe in nature. The removal of a structure and rip-rap sea-wall from the Stilwell Hall site located in southern Monterey Bay provided a unique opportunity to study erosion processes at an accelerated rate. A 1-D wave impact line erosion model (Larson et al., 2004) was tested against data acquired at this site between April, 2004 and April 2005. The model was optimally tuned to the data by a dimensionless coefficient that relates the impact force to the rate of recession. The coefficient values ranged from 0.7-1.3x10-3, for this field data, compared with values of 1.0-2.5x10-3 previously obtained for lab and field data. Migrating rip currents create a system of mega-cusps, which are nominally 10m in width and 200m in alongshore wavelength (Thornton, 2005). The presence of megacusps is hypothesized to accelerate sand dune erosion at their embayments where the beach is steeper and narrowest (Short, 1979;Shih and Komar, 1984;Revell, et al., 2002). It was determined that the highest recession occurred at the location of the rip current/mega-cusp embayment. Changes in the surf climate are of great interest to Naval Special Warfare (NSW) and U.S. Marine Corps (USMC) forces tasked with planning and executing operations in littoral areas. Naval history is replete with operations highlighting the importance of understanding and accurate prediction of nearshore dynamics. Without the ability to predict nearshore morphologic processes, providing such support is impossible.

Approved for public release, distribution is unlimited / Rip current spacings are compared with wave energetics and directional spreading in the Southern Monterey Bay. Southern Monterey Bay affords a unique environment to study rip currents owing to their prevalence created by near-normally incident waves on a sandy shoreline. It is hypothesized that rip current spacing is a function of wave directional spreading and energy flux, based on the morphodynamic modeling by Reniers et al. 2003. A gradient of wave energy flux exists due to headlands and refraction over Monterey Canyon. Rip currents are shown to occur between cusps in the shoreline, allowing cusp spacing to be a surrogate for rip spacing. Rip current spacing was inferred from beach morphology surveys, LIDAR imagery, and Argus cameras, and found to be O(150m) at Sand City and O(300m) at Marina, separated by 6km . Measured waves during a two month period using wave-rider buoys, show a gradient of across-shore energy flux between Sand City, 2 28000( / ) F Jm x . , and Marina, 2 33000( / ) F Jm x . . The two sites have the same peak directional spreading of energy value, 14 peak ̤= o , and slightly different bulk values for Sand City, 18 bulk ̤= o , and Marina, 20 bulk ̤= o . Therefore, the variations in rip current spacing could not be attributed to directional spreading but appear related to variations in energy flux. / Ensign, United States Naval Reserve

Rip current images are useful for assisting in climate studies but time consuming to manually annotate by hand over thousands of images. Object detection is a possible solution for automatic annotation because of its success and popularity in identifying regions of interest in images, such as human faces. Similarly to faces, rip currents have distinct features that set them apart from other areas of an image, such as more generic patterns of the surf zone. There are many distinct methods of object detection applied in face detection research. In this thesis, the best fit for a rip current object detector is found by comparing these methods. In addition, the methods are improved with Haar features exclusively created for rip current images. The compared methods include max distance from the average, support vector machines, convolutional neural networks, the Viola-Jones object detector, and a meta-learner. The presented results are compared for accuracy, false positive rate, and detection rate. Viola-Jones has the top base-line performance by achieving a detection rate of 0.88 and identifying only 15 false positives in the test image set of 53 rip currents. The described meta-learner integrates the presented Haar features, which are developed in accordance with the original Viola-Jones algorithm. Ada-Boost, a feature ranking algorithm, shows that the newly presented Haar features extract more meaningful data from rip current images than some of the current features. The meta-classifier improves upon the stand-alone Viola-Jones when applying these features by reducing its false positives by 47% while retaining a similar computational cost and detection rate.

The nearshore current field, defined here as the residual horizontal flow after averaging over the incident wave period, exhibits variability at a range of time and space scales. Some of the variable currents are low frequency gravity wave motions. However, variable, rotational (in the sense of possessing vertical vorticity) flow can also exist as part of the overall nearshore current field. A field and numerical modelling investigation of these variable rotational currents has been carried out. Drifters, which were developed for surfzone use, enabled measurement of the nearshore current structure; the design and testing of these new instruments is described. Two sets of field measurements, using the new drifters and Eulerian instruments were carried out for conditions with swell perpendicular to a plane beach and in strong longshore currents. In the perpendicular swell conditions, an interesting and well-defined feature of the measured trajectories was the development of transient rip currents. Discrete vortices were also observed. In the longshore current case, trajectories with the longshore current displacement removed had complex meandering paths. Lagrangian data were used to make estimates of length scales and dispersion, both of which provide strong evidence that the current field cannot be due to low frequency gravity waves alone. Under the assumption of equipartition of kinetic and potential energy for low frequency gravity waves, Eulerian measurements of velocities and pressure show significant energy due to non-divergent, rotational flow in both the perpendicular swell and longshore current case. A numerical model that can simulate horizontal flow with a directionally spread, random wave field incident on a plane beach was implemented. The model developed transient rip currents that are qualitatively very similar to those seen in the drifter trajectories from the field. The number and intensity of rip currents in the model depended on the beach slope and incident wave spectra. The energy content and cross-shore flux (and hence transport of material) of the rotational current flow component in the simulated flow fields is comparable to that due to low frequency gravity waves. The modelling also provided some evidence that there may be universal characteristics of the rotational currents. The field results and modelling show that variable rotational currents are ubiquitous in the field even when longshore currents and hence shear waves are not present. The term “infragravity turbulence” is suggested to describe the general class of nearshore hydrodynamics not directly associated with shear waves, which is largely disorganised, but contains well defined features such as transient rips currents and large scale horizontal vortices. The results have important implications in the understanding of the transport of material, including sediment, biological material, pollution, and sometimes bathers, in the nearshore zone.

This dissertation combines seemingly different studies, which work together to describe the physical characteristics of rip current development and associated social implications at several locations. These fast-moving, concentrated flows of water travel offshore and can be found on any beach with sufficient wave action. Any event of increased wave steepness will erode a large quantity of sediment from the beach. The material deposited offshore eventually makes its way back; during this process, ocean water becomes trapped behind a shore-attached bar resulting in a ridge-and-runnel. These formations are seen at East Hampton, where rip-like currents form as concentrated water drains from the runnel through a breach in the ridge. Camera images from 2010-2016 captured ridge-and-runnel formations and the ensuing currents. These newly described rips behave similarly to bar-gaps; however, they are not directly related to wave action. Coastal scientists consider rip currents to be the number one hazard at most beaches. In Palm Beach County, two traditional rip types were studied: bar-gap and structurally-controlled. Lifeguard incident reports from 2011-2016 were used to correlate wind speeds and wave heights to rip related rescues at three beaches. This research was undertaken in an effort to determine under what conditions most beachgoers become caught in this hazard. Rip currents were seen to be the most dangerous to bathers on days with moderate wind and wave activity. The same beach states that lead to the strongest rips also tend to keep beachgoers from entering the ocean. A social survey at Miami Beach, from 2011 to 2012, quantified beachgoer’s rip knowledge and their recognition of hazards. A significant portion of the respondents showed insufficient knowledge, which indicated they are at-risk of being caught or drowning in a rip current. Frequent exposure to the beach, maturation, and residency were identified as the main contributors to one’s literacy whereas education was the only variable that influenced a beachgoer’s visual recognition of hazard. The information gathered by these surveys can aid in creating better rip current awareness campaigns targeted to demographics that were determined as the most at-risk. An understanding of the physical and social science of rip currents can mitigate the impact of these beach hazards.