La dynamique sédimentaire des rivières, souvent modifiée par les aménagements, n'a pas été considérée comme un facteur significatif pour la qualité des environnements riverains et dans les stratégies de restauration. Les approches destinées à restaurer la charge sédimentaire d'une rivière afin qu'elle soit compatible avec les besoins environnementaux et humains, en termes de quantité de sédiments et de granulométrie, sont encore peu développées. De plus, les approches existantes telles que l'injection de sédiments sont souvent coûteuses et nécessitent une intervention humaine. Cette thèse porte sur l'érosion induite des berges, qui constitue une alternative plus durable pour l'environnement. Cette approche consiste à accroître le potentiel d'érosion en certains sites le long des berges d'une rivière chenalisée, en leur permettant d'être plus fortement érodés lors de crues. Deux approches, un modèle physique et des simulations numériques, ont été utilisées pour étudier un site localisé sur le Vieux-Rhin, en aval de Bâle (Suisse), où une modification des épis éxistents est prévue afin de favoriser l'érosion des berges. Dans un premier temps, différents scénarios de modification ont été testés sur une gamme de débits, au moyen d'un modèle physique à échelle de Froude non distordue avec un lit mobile. Dans ce modèle physique, un mélange de quatre classes granulométriques a été adopté afin de reproduire la courbe granulométrique mesurée en nature. Le modèle a été mis à l'échelle par une méthode spécifique qui représente avec précision le début du mouvement de chaque classe. Une stratégie efficace d'érosion des berges a été établie, qui libère des sédiments sans provoquer un retrait excessif des berges qui puisse compromettre la sécurité d'un chenal de navigation adjacent. Par la suite, l'aptitude du modèle numérique Telemac2D à modéliser l'érosion et les processus de rupture de berge a été évaluée. L'algorithme existant de rupture de berge a été modifié pour améliorer les résultats, et les développements implémentés ont été validés par des comparaisons sur des cas-tests de laboratoire. Enfin, les essais du modèle physique ont été simulés numériquement à la même échelle. Les simulations reproduisent les processus observés sur le modèle physique, et les volumes de sédiments érodés et déposés sont du même ordre de grandeur que ceux mesurés / Sediment transport dynamics, often heavily modified by river training, are not yet sufficiently considered as a significant factor in riparian environmental quality and river restoration strategies. Approaches for restoring a river's sediment in quantity and in grain size distribution, so that it is compatible with both ecological and human needs, are still under development. Furthermore, existing approaches such as direct sediment injection are often expensive and require human intervention. This thesis explores induced bank erosion, a more environmentally sustainable alternative. This approach involves increasing the potential for erosion at certain sites along the bank of a trained river, and allowing them to be eroded during high flow periods. Two modelling approaches, physical scaled models and numerical simulation, were used to study a site located on the Old Rhine downstream of Basle (Switzerland) where existing bank protection groynes will be modified to induce bank erosion. Firstly, different modification options were tested over a range of flow rates with a Froude-scaled undistorted movable-bed physical model. The physical model used a mixture of four grain sizes to reproduce the bank grain size distribution found at the site, and was scaled according to a specific method which accurately represents initiation of motion for each grain size. An effective bank erosion strategy was found that releases sediment without compromising the safety of an adjacent navigation channel through excessive bank retreat. Subsequently, the capability of the Telemac2D two-dimensional depth-averaged numerical modelling system to model bank erosion and failure processes was assessed, and the existing bank failure algorithm was modified in order to improve results. Algorithm developments were tested with two laboratory test cases. Then, the physical model tests were simulated at their same scale. Simulations reproduced the processes present in the physical model tests, and volumes of eroded and deposited sediment were of the same order of magnitude

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Joint Program in Oceanography/Applied Ocean Science and Engineering (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Biology; and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution), 2013. / Cataloged from PDF version of thesis. / Includes bibliographical references. / The sinking flux of particles is an important removal mechanism of carbon from the surface ocean as part of the biological pump and can play a role in cycling of other chemical species. This work dealt with improving methods of measuring particle export and measuring export on different scales to assess its spatial variability. First, the assumption of ²³⁸U linearity with salinity, used in the ²³⁸U-²³⁴Th method, was reevaluated using a large sample set over a wide salinity range. Next, neutrally buoyant and surface-tethered sediment traps were compared during a three-year time series in the subtropical Atlantic. This study suggested that previously observed imbalances between carbon stocks and fluxes in this region are not due to undersampling by traps. To assess regional variability of particle export, surface and water-column measurements of ²³⁴Th were combined for the first time to measure fluxes on ~20 km scales. Attempts to relate surface properties to particle export were complicated by the temporal decoupling of production and export. Finally, particle export from ²³⁴Th was measured on transects of the Atlantic Ocean to evaluate basin-scale export variability. High-resolution sampling through the water-column allowed for the identification of unique ²³⁴Th features in the intermediate water column. / by Stephanie Anne Owens. / Ph.D.

Dans cette étude menée sur la côte méditerranéenne du Maroc, de l’Algérie, et de la Tunisie à une échelle spatiale et temporelle étendue (2200 km de côte et sur 100 ans environ), nous déterminons, par une approche « Source-to-sink », les relations existantes entre l’érosion produite dans les bassins versants et les sédiments transportés en suspension par les oueds, avec la redistribution de ces sédiments le long du rivage. Nous proposons un nouveau modèle empirique de transport sédimentaire en suspension le long des bassins versants de notre site d’étude. Nous déterminons alors l’impact des barrages sur les sédiments, puis nous estimons quantitativement quels sont les apports sédimentaires s’effectuant jusqu’à la mer. Nous analysons les caractéristiques morphologiques du littoral selon sa géométrie et les indices morphodynamiques issus de la littérature. Après avoir cartographié la position du trait de côte à différentes périodes, la cinématique du rivage est déterminée, ainsi que la dérive littorale. Ces analyses se basent sur le concept de cellule littorale. Nous terminons par une synthèse globale avant de tirer les conclusions principales sur les relations entre les bassins versants et les cellules littorales, telles que (1) le rôle de précurseur et de tampon sédimentaire joué par les deltas pour limiter l’érosion des plages en secteur aval de la cellule littorale, (2) les liens entre les apports sédimentaires des oueds avant-barrage avec le type de barre littorale, et (3) les liens entre les apports sédimentaires des oueds avant-barrage, minorés du volume de sédiment déplacé par la dérive littorale, avec la taille des deltas et le nombre de barres littorales. / In this study conducted on the Mediterranean coast of Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia at an extended spatial and temporal scale (2200 km of coastline and about 100 years), we determine, using a "source-to- sink ", the existing relationships between erosion produced in watersheds and sediment transported in suspension by wadis, with the redistribution of these sediments along the shoreline. We propose a new empirical model of suspended sediment transport along the watersheds of our study site. We then determine the impact of dams on the sediments, and then quantitatively estimate the sedimentary contributions to the sea. We analyze the morphological characteristics of the littoral according to its geometry and the morphodynamic indices from the literature . After mapping the position of the coastline at different periods, the kinematics of the shoreline is determined, as well as the shoreline drift. These analyzes are based on the concept of a littoral cell. We conclude with a general synthesis before drawing the main conclusions on the relations between watersheds and coastal cells, such as (1) the role of precursor and sediment buffer played by deltas to limit the erosion of beaches in the sector (3) the links between sediment inputs from pre-barrage wadis, minus the volume of sediment moved by the coastal drift, with the size of the deltas and the number of coastal bars.

Estuarine circulation and its associated transport processes drive the environmental integrity of many near-shore habitats (the coastal ocean, rivers, estuaries and emergent wetlands). A thorough understanding and consideration of this circulation is, therefore, vital in the proper management of these habitats. The aim of this study is to bring together theory and new satellite observations in the Columbia River Estuary to increase our understanding of estuarine circulation and transport. Surface reflectance measurements gathered by the Moderate Imaging Spectroradiometer (MODIS) are first compared to in situ observations to develop an empirical model for remotely derived surface turbidity. Results indicate that MODIS data significantly correlate with in situ measurements of turbidity throughout the CRE (R2 = 0.96). Remote estimates of turbidity are then used to explore the physical processes that drive their spatial distribution. Although the response to different hydrodynamic conditions varies throughout the system, global levels of turbidity are most sensitive to fluvial and tidal inputs and increase during spring tides and high river flow. As a result, the turbidity field has temporal cycles that are consistent with the frequency of these processes. The location of the estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) is highly dynamic and typically migrates downstream as the tidal velocity or river flow increases. The ETM becomes trapped near the Megler Bridge (river kilometer 20), however, and the presence of strong topography in this region suggests there exists an interaction between bottom topography and sediment transport. A 2-D semi-analytical model, developed herein from the simplified Navier-Stokes equations, confirms that topographic features exhibit substantial influence on longitudinal turbidity distributions. The model considers the coupled, tidally-averaged velocity (composed of gravitational circulation, internal tidal asymmetry, and river flow) and salinity fields and assumes a condition of morphodynamic equilibrium to estimate the distribution of sediment for arbitrary channel configurations. Model simulations demonstrate that topographic highs tend to increase local seaward sediment fluxes, and that topographic lows increase local landward sediment fluxes. Sediment flux convergence near topographic highs compresses the local turbidity distribution, whereas flux divergence near topographic lows dilates the distribution and, under appropriate conditions, produces multiple ETMs. In summary a combination of the model and satellite data has given valuable new insights into the sediment dynamics of estuarine environments; in particular, both show that turbidity distribution and ETM location vary considerably with tidal and river flow conditions, fluctuating on a variety of timescales, and are heavily influenced by bottom topography.

Les barres sableuses pré-littorales ont un rôle fondamental en morphodynamique des plages soumises à l’action des vagues. Le déséquilibre permanent entre les flux sédimentaires induits vers laplage par les non linéarités des vagues et ceux induits vers le large par le courant de retour gouverne lamigration transversale des barres. Dans cette thèse, un nouveau modèle morphodynamique de profilde plage intégrant l’état de l’art des processus hydro-sédimentaires a été développé. Le faible coûten temps de calcul de ce modèle permet de réaliser des simulations à long terme, O(mois/années),de la morphologie de plages réelles ayant des caractéristiques variées (pente, type de déferlement,granularité). La simulation sur plusieurs jeux de données, de plages réelles et expérimentales, a permisd’identifier la contribution respective des principaux processus hydro-sedimentaires dans la dynamiquede la plage suivant les conditions de houle (e.g. Tempête, temps calme). Ces avancées scientifiques ontété intégrées à un modèle 2DH, ce qui a notamment permis de simuler pour la première fois sur des casacadémiques la formation d’une barre sableuse rectiligne à partir d’une plage parfaitement plane, suiviedu développement de corps sableux tridimensionnels. Ces résultats ouvrent la voie vers l’applicationde ce type de modèle aux plages naturelles soumises à une large variabilité de régimes de houle. / Sandbars are ubiquitous patterns along wave-dominated sandy coastlines and are key elementsin the global evolution of beaches. Cross-shore sandbar migrations are the result of the permanentimbalance between sediment flux driven by wave non-linearity and mean return current. In this thesis,we developed a new process-based beach profile model integrating the recent scientific advancesin term of hydrodynamics and sediment transport developed for beach morphodynamics. The lowcomputing time allows for long-term morphodynamic simulations (O months/years) of natural beachprofiles of diverse characteristics (beach slope, sediment grain size or type of wave breaking). Modelvalidations on several data sets, encompassing natural and experimental beach profile evolutions,highlight the respective contribution of the main hydrodynamic and sediment transport processesinvolved in specific cross-shore sandbar evolution relative to various wave conditions. Finally, all thecross-shore physical processes were integrated in a 2DH morphodynamic model, resulting for the firsttime in the simulation of a quasi-complete down state sequence showing alongshore bar generationwith subsequent spontaneous formation of transverse bar and rip morphology. These very encouragingresults pave the way for using this model to simulate 3-Dimensional evolutions of natural beachesforced by irregular wave conditions

Laboratory tests were undertaken to establish the formative mechanism for steps and pools in steep mountain streams. They indicated that the formation of steps and pools is associated with high intensity, low return interval events and the processes of armouring/paving and antidune formation. Lower than formative discharges give the structures their step-pool appearance, and under such discharges they are extremely stable. Step-pool streams may be modelled by a succession of artificial steps or weirs. Wooden steps were placed in a laboratory channel for this purpose, and clear water flow, clear water scour, and sediment transport tests undertaken for a range of discharges and channel slopes. Three distinct flow regimes were observed for the clear water flow and clear water scour tests. They were stable tumbling flow, unstable tumbling flow, and shooting flow. Sediment transport complicated the regimes from low transport rates. Unstable tumbling flow (clear water flow) at a low slope was shown to be caused by the breaking of standing waves at a theoretical maximum of 0.142. For higher slopes (and including clear water scour tests), unstable tumbling flow was shown to be associated with the physical system geometry preventing the submerged hydraulic jump from developing fully. However, unstable tumbling flow was also caused at lower discharges by sediment waves which were a feature of some test runs with sediment transport. Even so, unstable tumbling flow is likely to occur under field conditions only rarely. With clear water scour, the scour dimensions corresponded to the ultimate static limit. That is, no sediment remains suspended by jet action as occurs for the dynamic limit of scour. For clear water flow and clear water scour, resistance to flow may be predicted by logarithmic equations. Resistance to flow with sediment transport correlated strongly with the average scour hole size. A sudden increase in average (and maximum) velocities indicated that with sediment transport, the erosive ability of a step-pool system may increase sharply as pools become drowned by sediment. For a given discharge, increasing the sediment transport rate beyond this drowning led to net deposition, but no real increase in average velocity. With sediment transport, sediment waves and water waves occurred (independently) despite steady inputs of both water and sediment. This behaviour parallels reports of sediment movement as waves in mountain streams. This tendency toward non-uniformity of water and sediment motion suggests that such behaviour may be explicable in terms of recent advances in nonlinear thermodynamics.

La thèse constitue une juxtaposition de plusieurs contributions originales à lélaboration et lanalyse de modèles numériques capables de décrire une vaste gamme découlements à surface libre ainsi que les phénomènes de transport associés. Deux axes principaux sous-tendent les recherches entreprises. Il sagit, dune part, dune contribution à létude de modèles visant à reproduire adéquatement les interactions du fluide avec divers constituants transportés, tels que de lair entraîné, un polluant ou des sédiments. Cette phase du travail inclut également la caractérisation et la prédiction du comportement de lécoulement en présence dune topographie mobile ou érodable, y compris dans le cas dun barrage en remblai subissant une surverse. Dautre part, partant du constat quune modélisation fidèle des processus de transport, notamment hydrosédimentaires, passe inévitablement par un raffinement du calcul hydrodynamique proprement dit, une partie des travaux effectués dans le cadre de cette thèse est spécifiquement orientée vers un enrichissement de la connaissance des champs hydrodynamiques au sein du modèle.

Aquesta tesi permet adquirir una millor comprensió de la dinàmica dels plomalls hidrotèrmics en l'estany de Banyoles i correlacionar la meteorologia amb els processos de fluïdització que s'hi produeixen. S'han trobat els patrons atmosfèrics que generen els esdeveniments de les fluïditzacions així com la seva freqüència. Això és crucial per a determinar la qualitat de l'aigua de l'estany. S'han trobat inhomogeneïtats espacials tant en el plomall crònic que es desenvolupa en la cubeta B1, com en el plomall episòdic de la cubeta B2. S'ha caracteritzat l'estructura del plomall generat a la cubeta B2 i s'ha comparat amb el desenvolupat a la cubeta B1. Finalment, s'han realitzat simulacions numèriques mitjançant un model numèric: MIT General Circulation Model, en el qual s'ha hagut de fer canvis en les condicions de contorn per a situar la font convectiva al fons de la columna d'aigua. Les simulacions s'han comparat amb els resultats experimentals trobats mitjançant campanyes. / The aim of this thesis is to acquire a better understanding of the dynamics of the hydrothermal plumes in the lake and to gain more insight into the interrelationship between meteorology and fluidization. They have been found the atmospheric patterns that generate the fluidization events, as well as their frequency. This is crucial to determining the water quality of Lake Banyoles. They have been found spatial inhomogeneities of the chronic thermal plume found in B1 and of the episodic thermal plume in B2. The structure of thermal plume in B2 has been characterized and compared to the plume developed in B1. Finally, it has been used a numerical model: MIT General Circulation Model. It has been necessary to modify the boundary conditions moving the buoyancy source from the top of the water surface to the bottom. Results have been compared to experimental data undertaken from the field campaigns.

The state of Georgia has two large ports that are accessed by way of navigable entrance channels. One of these ports is located in Brunswick, Georgia, and is maintained by the United States Army Corps of Engineers via periodic dredging. Sediments removed from the channel are typically pumped several miles offshore of Brunswick and placed in dredged material mounds, thus removing the sediment from the littoral cycle. This offshore placement, while being the most economically viable method, often negatively impacts the sediment budget of the coastal region and causes erosion downdrift of the channel, specifically along Jekyll Island. Onshore placement of the dredged material is not feasible due to increased associated costs and the high fraction of fines present in the material; thus, nearshore placement is a potentially viable alternative. Nearshore placement could possibly reduce erosion rates and provide protection to property from waves and storms. The USACE initiated a thorough field data collection campaign in 2002 to study the possibility of beneficial placement of dredged material. The author analyzed the existing data to predict the rate and direction of sediment movement away from an existing dredge mound. These predictions are then compared to bathymetric survey data in an effort to validate the results and methodologies used for sediment transport predictions. The ultimate goal is to use the results of this study along with numerical models currently being developed by the Corps to assess the possibility of sediments being transported toward the shore thus re-entering the littoral cycle and providing a benefit to the coast of Georgia.

Shelby tube sediment samples collected from the foundations of ten (10) bridges located in the state of Georgia were tested in the laboratory to find their erosional behavior and the correlation of erosion parameters with sediment properties in order to improve the prediction of scour around bridge foundations. These sites were spatially distributed in order to fall into different major river basins and in different physiographic regions. A description of the Valley and Ridge, Blue Ridge, Piedmont, and Coastal Plain physiographic regions of Georgia is included, and the erosion parameters found from flume measurements are associated with their respective regions. Flume measurements were performed using a rectangular, tilting, recirculating flume located in the hydraulics lab in the School of Civil and Environmental Engineering at Georgia Tech. Velocities up to 1.7 m/s and bed shear stresses up to 21 Pa can be achieved in the flume. Regression analysis was performed on erosion rates as a function of applied shear stress to determine the parameters of the erosion function. The resulting parameters, the critical shear stress and the erosion rate constant, were correlated with soil properties and physiographic regions. Experimental methodology was chosen to approach this problem because the involvement of interparticle forces for fine-grained materials makes it difficult to deal with the erosion phenomenon through other means. Nevertheless, analytical description of the erosion phenomenon was included in order to provide a better understanding of it. Linear, exponential and power regression mathematical models for erosion rate were compared, and the two best-fit regression models of erosion rate as a function of shear stress are proposed to formulate a methodology intended to characterize the behavior of a soil exposed to erosive flow conditions. One of them is a linear model to calculate critical shear stresses and low erosion rates. The second model, which is exponential, has the advantage of describing the erosion rate response for a wider range of shear stress values. It is shown that one of the most relevant predictors for the critical shear stress and erosion rate constant in the regression models is the fine material content present in the sample, which is an indirect indicator of the contribution of interparticle forces to the erosion process. Applying the described methodology, a more case-specific calculation of the erosion at bridge foundations can be performed taking into account the actual material in situ.