Here, I bring communication theories into conversation with peace and conflict scholarship. Specifically, I explore how the ways in which women narrate their experiences of violent conflict through sewing collectives can inform conflict transformation work. I engage in this exploration within the framework of narrative theory, using Kenneth Burke’s dramatistic pentad to analyze the narratives presented in a selection of textile pieces created by women in Chile, South Africa, and Northern Ireland. I situate this project within literature pertaining to feminist approaches to rhetoric, discussions of bridgework in identity negotiation from intercultural communication, concerns related to conflict transformation, and work with socially engaged art. Finally, I bring these analyses into conversation with one another to consider how women rhetors may inform conflict transformation through their textile work. In particular, I discuss how each of these rhetors offers the narrative elements to reconstitute collective identities, providing an avenue toward peace in their own settings.

Introduction Excerpt:The Cocke County Collaborative (a division of Community House Cooperative, Inc.) of Newport and Cocke County in East Tennessee developed a new model for collaboration. The model has drawn a host of interested people and organizations from across the country both in following the progress of the working model and partnering for community based projects...

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The purpose of this research was to compare preshrunk and nonshrunk fabrics when fused to suitable weight interfacings by examination of rigidity, bond strength, and dimensional stability. More specifically, varying fiber content and three types of nonwoven interfacing were used. Preshinking consisted of a warm wash and tumble dry Preshrunk and unshrunk fabrics were fused to each of the three interfacings using an industrial steam press. Selected performance properties were measured after 1, 5, and 10 laundering periods. The data were subjected to a randomized complete block design analysis of variance to determine the significance cf main effects and interactions among variables. The .05 level of significance was used. The four fabric types were different from each other. fabric had a significant effect on all of the dependent variables: rigidity, bond strength, and dimensional stability. The three types of interfacings, although different, were not as dramatically different as were the fabrics. The type of interfacing had a statistically significant effect on two of the dependent variables, flexural rigidity and bond strength, but, had no significant effect upon the dimensional stability. The preshrinkage of the fabric had an effect on the flexural rigidity and bond strength, but had no effect on dimensional stability when measured in the weft direction. Prewashed fabrics were found to be slightly more rigid and exhibited much weaker fabric-interface bonds than the control samples. Evidence from this research suggested that shirting fabric should not be preshrunk prior to garment construction. / M.S.

The number of home based businesses (HBB) utilizing home economic skills and entrepreneurial skills has increased in the 1980's. This has brought about an awareness of the numerous problems being faced by the owners of these businesses. This study was designed to investigate the problem of pricing sewing services in HBB's. The objective of this study was to analyze the relationships between self esteem, self perceived clothing construction skill level, and the prices charged for the sewing services. Data were collected using Rosenberg's self esteem 10 item questionnaire and three garment case studies in which the participants quoted prices and times for constructing each garment. A 51 item skills list, in which each participant rated her own clothing construction skills, was also completed. Demographic data was also collected. The instruments were field tested with seven seamstresses in the Blacksburg area. The pricing results from the case study field tests were used as standards for comparison in the study. The sample was made up of 46 seamstresses whose names were obtained from Virginia Cooperative Extension home economists. The data collected was analyzed using descriptive statistics, Pearson Product Moment Correlations, and Multiple Linear Regressions. Self esteem was found to be significantly correlated to self perceived clothing construction skill level. Broad price ranges were quoted for each garment. Urban price quotes were slightly higher than rural prices. / Master of Science

The importance of automating the garment manufacturing process has been understood since the early 1980s. However, in spite of millions of dollars spent on research, three decades later, the industry is still far from achieving a fully autonomous process. Previous work on fabric control in automated sewing focused on the control of only a single sheet of fabric using an industrial manipulator with an overhead vision system. These methods did not meet the accuracy and robustness requirements of the sewing process with respect to fabric position and fabric tension. To address these issues, a new method for fabric control in automated sewing is described. It uses the current feed mechanism on sewing machines, feed dogs, but modifies them to be servo-controlled. These servo controlled actuators, servo dogs, individually control two sheets of fabric before the fabric reaches the needle and during the sewing process. The servo dogs actuate the fabric 180o out of phase with the sewing needle, providing incremental control of the fabric when the needle is out of the fabric. To achieve this type of control successfully for automated sewing, the servo dogs have been designed for short displacement, high acceleration motions using a cable drive system powered by voice coil motors. Feedback of fabric position has been determined to be necessary and is to be provided by a thread-tracking vision system. This thesis outlines the general design of the system and discusses a prototype used to validate the design, and describes experiments performed to examine how the fabric will behave with the use of this type of actuation method.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-06-02T19:51:36Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 2171.pdf: 1842848 bytes, checksum: d11bb8db2a21fd87fb8244b4fee09a52 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2007-07-30 / The objective of the dissertation is studying the pace of work in the sector of small sewing businesses of textile manufacturing. This sector has great socio-economic importance for Brazil, because of their economic contribution, as well as the quantity of jobs created. To achieve the proposed objective, was first performed a literature review on pace and organization of work, taking into consideration the factors that affect the pace of work in general, such as technology, training and motivation of staff, among others. Then, there was a review of the literature on small business, construction, highlighting its history, technology, industrial processes and general labor. The following are presented in 3 case studies of small businesses in construction, seeking to deepen the knowledge about factors that influence the pace of work. Finally, the study concludes the importance of human labor and industry of sewing, emphasizing that the pace remains influenced by good working conditions. / O objetivo da dissertação é estudar o ritmo de trabalho do setor de costura de pequenas empresas de confecção têxtil. Esse setor possui grande importância sócio-econômica para o Brasil, devido a sua contribuição econômica, bem como pela quantidade de empregos gerados. Para atingir o objetivo proposto, primeiramente foi realizada uma revisão bibliográfica sobre ritmo e organização do trabalho, levando em consideração os fatores que afetam o ritmo de trabalho de uma maneira geral, como a tecnologia empregada, o treinamento e a motivação aos funcionários, entre outros. Depois, foi feita uma revisão da bibliografia sobre a pequena empresa de confecção, destacando a sua história, a tecnologia, os processos industriais e características gerais do trabalho. A seguir são apresentados 3 Estudos de Caso em pequenas empresas de confecção, buscando aprofundar o conhecimento sobre aspectos que influenciam o ritmo de trabalho. Por fim, o estudo conclui pela grande importância do trabalho humano e no setor de costura, enfatizando que o ritmo permanece influenciado por boas condições de trabalho.

M.Tech. (Fine Art) / The aim is to develop a sustainable sewing co-operative for Tshulu Trust, located in the Domboni village in the rural chieftaincy of HaMakuya, north-eastern Limpopo Province, South Africa. The development of the new sewing co-operative aims to address the extreme unemployment in HaMakuya, which is one of the main causes of poverty in the area. It is also a response to one of the primary objectives of Tshulu Trust, which is to create employment. The research study addresses the extent to which arts-based training interventions might ensure the sustainability of the new sewing co-operative. This study is a Participatory Action Research (PAR) training intervention that is Freirean in approach. I draw on the principles of Paulo Freire’s book Pedagogy of the oppressed (1995, 2008) to provide the theoretical framework that underpins the training envisaged in this study. Methodologically, this project and study involves four action research cycles with newlyrecruited members of the sewing co-operative. There is a final cycle which is my own selfreflexive cycle at the conclusion of the development project in HaMakuya. The cycles implemented with the members involve arts-based training approaches in design manufacture and embellishment, business training, and marketing of fashion and homeware products. In addition there is also training for enterprise development within the action cycles. Critical monitoring and reflection take place at the end of each cycle to inform action plans for the next cycles. The cycles of the development project end with a public showcase of the products manufactured and modeled by the participants. For my own self-reflections, I design and prototype my own designs for a fashion range inspired by my experience in HaMakuya. These prototypes as well as the products manufactured by the participants are included in a catalogue that supports this dissertation.

Needlework has been practiced throughout history, across the nation of Sweden and the world, primarily by women within the home. In recent years a revival of the craft has been seen worldwide, the covid lockdown and an aging population being two factors contributing to this. Historically there’s been a duality to the practice of needlework. On one hand, it’s been a means of oppression, and on the other hand, it's been a weapon of resistance and a source of joy, creativity, and collectivity. It has, throughout history, proven to be a political, social and creative tool and, as argued in this thesis, a spatial tool. The practice of needlework allows for the artisan to travel between different spheres. This thesis sets out to explore the potential of moving between private and public, performing a public domesticity through, for example, knitting.  Needlework is, in its nature, slow. This slowness, the repetitive movements of the hands and the touching of tactile materials emphasizes the process of making and prompts reflections and emotions. This thesis argues that methods of needlework as, for example, layering, mending, joining, ripping, and patching, clearly connect to the architectural design process. These methods emphasize notions of care and maintenance. The thesis uses an interdisciplinary approach to investigate needlework as both the topic of research and the means of spatial exploration and representation, aiming to underpin the relevance of engaging with needlework in the architectural design process, as a way of maintaining the craft and learning new things. Rooms devoted to the practice of needlework haven't appeared in a building plan for many years. The design proposal, presented in the report, aims to explore the possibility of these spaces reappearing within the public sphere. The proposal is placed within the context of Sweden with no specific site intended. Proposing a space of appearance (term coined by Hannah Arendt in her theory of Plurality) actualized through the collective making of the syjunta (sewing circle). Creating a public syrum (sewing room)  where the practice of needlework and its practitioners can appear, connected to ideas of feminist architectural practice to make the everyday visible. The thesis project engages with needlework by seeing it as a collective act of taking and making space.

Statistics show high figures of poverty amongst farm dwellers in South Africa. Poverty is also associated with illiteracy, low life expectancy and high figures of malnutrition. One third of farm workers have no formal education. Very few farm dwellers have access to adequate housing and sanitation. A shortage in food, shelter and clothing leads to constant stress. In spite of extreme poverty, most households possess at least some human- and material resources. Through the effective management of these resources, the quality of life of people can be improved. Poor adults can be guided to better management through education. This study was part of the FLAGH-project where an educational intervention programme was developed, implemented and evaluated. The general goal of this study was to improve the sewing skills of female farm dwellers, in order to use existing resources of time, clothing and other textile articles optimally. Through the optimal use of these resources, less money needs to be spent on items such as clothes. More money can then be available for other basic needs, such as food. The intervention model as described by Fawcett et al. was used for this study. An intervention programme was developed, implemented and evaluated. Women on two farms were taught basic sewing skills to repair and recycle old clothes and other textile goods. Data to determine the success of the programme was gathered by means of practical pre- and post-tests. Paired sample t-tests were used to determine the effect size of the results, in order to determine if there was a practical significant difference in the skills of the women before and after the programme. Independent t-tests were used to determine the average and standard deviation in the evaluations of the two evaluators. Participants completed questionnaires regarding the presenting and compilation of the programme, to determine the success of the programme and to identify problems for possible future implementation of the programme. Results showed an improvement in the sewing skills of participants. Results from the programme evaluation showed that participants experienced the programme positively. The most important advantage of this programme was that participants can continue to apply the skills acquired during the programme, without any extra financial costs. / Thesis (M. Consumer Science)--North-West University, Potchefstroom Campus, 2006.