Orientador: Marizilda dos Santos Menezes / Resumo: Na produção de produtos de vestuário, a costura industrial é empregada nas superfícies têxteis como elemento de materialização, ou seja, a união de duas ou mais camadas de tecidos por meio de pontos de costura que resultam em um produto tridimensional. Neste âmbito, a pesquisa buscou explorar seu aspecto criativo em superfícies de vestuário, ancorados nos fundamentos e procedimentos do Design de Superfícies, para gerar superfícies inovadoras com aspectos representacionais, projetuais e relacionais. Para tanto, foram elaboradas etapas, as quais caracterizam como uma investigação exploratória, com aplicações de experimentos por meio de quatro técnicas de costura industrial em materiais têxteis. Como resultado, foram elencadas diretrizes que possam orientar o Designer de Moda a desenvolver superfícies de vestuários baseadas nos Fundamentos do Design de Superfícies, nos aspectos técnicos da costura industrial e nas características dos materiais têxteis / Abstract: In the production of clothing products, the industrial sewing is used on textiles surfaces as an element of materialization, that is, the joining two or more layers of fabric using sewing stitches that result in a three-dimensional product. In this contexto, the research sought to explore its creative aspecto n clothes surfaces, bases on the fundamentalsand procedures of Surfaces Design to generate innovative surfaces with representational, projectual and relation aspects. Therefore, steps were elaborated, characterized as na exploratory investigation, with applications of experiments by means of four industrial sewing techniques in textile materials. As a result, guidelines were elaborated that can guide the Fashion Designer to develop clothing surfaces based on the Fundamentals of Surfaces Design, the technical aspects of industrial sewing and the characteristic of textile materials / Mestre

This article describes how Lean Manufacturing tools were applied in a Peruvian textile company. A production management model is proposed whose goal is to reduce the number of non-conforming products in the pants manufacturing line. For this, all information was gathered from the production area of the company under study. With the use of quality tools, the diagnosis of the current situation of the pants line was made, identifying the most significant defects, which were 19.43% of produced units in 2018. It was determined that the main causes of the observed defects refer to non-standardized sewing processes, quality control errors, non-standardized cutting processes, and poor production planning. The application of VSM and SMED allowed the correct standardization of denim pants production, TQM allowed proper control and quality management of the production process, and JIT for optimal production planning.

Ce travail de recherche s'est orienté progressivement sur une investigation de plus en plus approfondie de l'univers des représentations liées à la mode, plus particulièrement à un vêtement : le bustier-corset. Se pose la question des rapports qu'entretiennent l'art et cet artisanat spécifique qu'est la couture. Nous pouvons l'étudier à travers les œuvres d'artistes telles que Natacha Lesueur, Jana Sterbak, Niki de Saint Phalle, Annette Messager et Elsa Schiaparelli. Il est à remarquer que la plupart de ces artistes étaient féministes et nous pouvons faire l'hypothèse qu'un travail esthétique de cette nature, impliquant une réflexion sur l'image de la femme, incite à une prise de conscience et de position sur la place qu'on lui donne dans la société. Un point de vue ironique, voire burlesque, a souvent été recherché pour créer une distanciation, un effet de surprise propre à déclencher une prise de conscience. Il est d'ailleurs également possible d'investiguer le corps de la femme et l'imaginaire qui l'entoure à travers l'existence et l'utilisation de symboles tels que la passementerie, le bijou, les matières brillantes et clinquantes. Bien que la représentation de la mode ait toujours existé dans les Arts, ce travail se focalisera sur les artistes des périodes modernes et contemporaines, qui accompagnent la naissance du design et son développement. Cependant il sera nécessaire de s'interroger sur ce qui s'est joué pendant la Renaissance, période pendant laquelle la notion de métiers d'art s'est développée, et sur l'historique du bustier, de son apparition jusqu'à sa déconstruction. Enfin, comment situer certaines de ces démarches en se référant aux notions d'art majeur et d'art mineur ? Faut-il dissocier des démarches artistiques de techniques différentes ? Pour figer le travail à un style correspondant à des normes dictées. / The research work gradually focused on a more and more deeper investigation of the universe related to fashion, and more particularly to a garment : the strapless corset. This raises the question of the relationships between art and the sewing craft work. We can look into it, through the work of artists such as Natacha Lesueur, Jana Sterbak, Niki de Saint 1 Phalle, Annette Messager and Elsa Schiaparelli. We can notice that most of these artists were feminists and we can make the assumption, that an esthetic work of this nature, involving a reflection on the image of women, creates an awareness on the position we confer to them in our society. Very often, an ironic attitude, even burlesque (or caricatural) was often looked for, to create a distance, and an attitude of surprise, appropriate to trigger an awareness of the situation. Moreover, it is also possible to investigate the body of the woman and the fantast around it, through the existence and the use of symbols such as trimmings, jewels, and bright and flash y materials. Although the representation of fashion has always existed in Art, this work will focus on modern and contemporary artists, who accompanied the birth and the development of the design artwork ... However it is also necessary to take into consideration, what happened during the Renaissance period, during which the notion of craftsmanship has developed, as well as the pathway of the bustier, from its creation until its deconstruction. And finally, how to position some of these works (or analysis) in conjunction with major art, and minor art, art work and artcraft ? Are they an extension of technical and symbolic practices so it leads to a combination.

Sound quality analysis is a tool designed to help determine customer preferences, which can be used to help the designer improve product quality. Many industries desire to know how the consuming public perceives their product, as this affects the product life and success. This research investigates which of the six sewing machines provided by Viking Sewing Machine Group (VSM group) consumers find most acoustically appealing. The sound quality analysis methods used include both jury based listening tests and quantitative sound quality metrics from empirical equations. The results from both methods are completely independent and are shown to have a very strong correlation. The procedures and results of both methods, jury listening tests and mathematical metrics, are presented. Near field sound intensity scans identified acoustic hot spots and give direction for possible design modifications to improve the acoustic signature of the two top tier machines, the Designer 1 and Creative 2144 (Husqvarna Viking and Pfaff respectively). This research determined that the entry level Pfaff Select 1530 has the most acoustically appealing sound of the six machines evaluated. In addition, it was also determined that a reduction in the higher frequency sounds produced by the machines is preferred over a reduction in the lower frequency sounds. Further investigations, including an evaluation of machine isolation and startup sounds, were also performed. The machine isolation results are highly dependant on the individual machine being evaluated and would require independent evaluation. In the machine startup sound assessment, it was discovered that again the Pfaff Select 1530 has the preferred sound. Near field acoustic intensity scans provide additional information on locations of strong acoustic radiation. The near field scans provided valuable design information. The acoustic "hot" spots were discovered to exist in the lower portions of the machines near the main stepper motor in the Designer 1, and radiating from the bottom plate of the machine in the Pfaff Creative 2144. This analysis has led to various design modifications that could be implemented to improve the sound quality of the machines, specifically the Designer 1 and the Creative 2144.

Historically, the construction, alteration, and mending of clothing was provided through household production activities, free of charge by the female members of the household or members of the extended family. These practices have changed in some families because of societal and cultural changes such as the increasing number of women who are employed outside of the household. Apparel construction, alteration, and mending are now available for purchase from service providers in the marketplace. Thus the overall purpose of this research was to examine the nature and foundation of the nonnative influences and attitudes of a sample of employed women toward purchasing apparel sewing services. Ajzen and Fishbein's (1980) reasoned action model which theorizes four stable relationships provided the theoretical framework for the research. The four relationships were Behavior-Intention (BI}, Attitude-Subjective Norm-Intention (ASNI), Behavioral Beliefs-Attitude (BBA), and Normative Beliefs-Subjective Norm (NBSN). Four corresponding objectives were investigated for three sewing services, clothing construction, alteration, and mending. A fifth objective for each apparel sewing service was used to explore the possible associations among a set of external variables and the employed women's estimated attitudes, estimated subjective norms, and the relative weights of the attitudinal and normative components in the ASNI relationship. Questions to measure behaviors, intentions to purchase, attitudes, behavioral beliefs, subjective norms, and normative beliefs were developed according to Ajzen and Fishbein's (1980) guidelines. Additional questions were developed to assess fourteen external variables derived from the review of literature. Two thousand ninety two questionnaires were sent through Virginia Tech's campus mail; 657 (97%) of the 679 (32%) returned were useable for the study. Kendall's Tau testing resulted in significant positive BBA relationships for all three sewing services. Multiple regression testing resulted in significant positive ASNI relationships for all sewing services. Significant positive BBA and NBSN relationships resulted from Pearson Product Moment Correlations for all three sewing services. All four null hypotheses for all three sewing services were rejected and the research hypotheses were supported. The fifth objective was investigated through three null hypothesis for each sewing service; each null hypothesis was tested with each external variable. The external variable, knowing someone who sews for pay, yielded statistically significant results for all three sewing services in the F-tests for the overall regressions, analysis of variance, and in the Tukey' s post hoc test; however this variable did not lead to significant differences in the standardized betas for services of altering and mending clothes, according to the Chow tests. No other external variables had as many significant tests for all three sewing services as knowing someone who sews for pay had, even though there were other significant tests in some of the relationships tested. Ajzen, I., & Fishbein, M. (1980). Understanding attitudes and predicting social behavior. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice Hall. / Ph. D.

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Garment construction is based on converting a fashion fabric into a wearable structure. Interfacings are attached to the fashion fabric in enclosed seams to provide support and stiffness for the seam area. Interfacings affect how the fashion fabric can bend. Therefore, it is the purpose of this study to determine the effect fusible and nonfusible nonwoven interfacings have on three bending properties of a lightweight suiting fabric. These three properties are flexural rigidity, crease recovery, and seam head size. A lightweight suiting fabric, a nonwoven fusible interfacing, and a nonwoven nonfusible interfacing were selected for the study. The flexural rigidity and crease recovery were measured for the component pieces of fashion fabric, nonfusible interfacing, and fusible interfacing and for the fusible and nonfusible composites. The flexural rigidity and crease recovery for the composites were recorded for the composite bent with the interfacing side up and with the interfacing side down. Seam head size was measured for enclosed seams with no interfacing (control), fusible interfacing, and nonfusible interfacing. Cross-sections of the enclosed seams were photographed against a ruler with hundredths of an inch increments. The seam head size was read from each of the photographic slides. Seven null hypotheses were tested. The hypotheses pertained to bending resistance and crease recovery of composites and their components, interfacing side up and down when bending and creasing, and fusible and nonfusible composites; and to seam head sizes of composites of the three selected fabrics. It was found that it did not make a difference which interfacing type is used (fusible or nonfusible) with respect to crease recovery and seam head size. It did make a difference which interfacing type was used with respect to flexural rigidity. The fusible composite was 2. 47 times stiffer than the nonfusible, however. / Master of Science

This project explored the transformation of unconventional materials, such as sewing tools, into metal ornaments inspired by Hazara cultural motifs. By utilising metal forming and linking techniques, the goal was to create contemporary designs that blend traditional motives of Hazara culture with modern garment silhouettes of Western culture.

Esta dissertação analisa de forma critica a trajetória profissional de Jum Nakao, com o objetivo de investigar o seu papel transformador socioeducacional e cultural presente em seu projeto e conceitos de criação e produção, a partir de conceitos contemporâneos de interdisciplinaridade, dobra e afetividade, tendo como objeto principal de estudo seu percurso a partir do desfile performance \"A costura do invisível\" / This dissertation analyzes in a critical point of view the professional trajectory of Jum Nakao, with the objective of investigating his socio-educational and cultural transformative role present in his project and concepts of creation and production, based on contemporary concepts of interdisciplinarity, bending and affectivity. Main object of study his route from the performance parade \"The seam of the invisible\"

This case study explored the lived experiences of 8 participants in a microfinance sewing program in El Salvador. Numerous studies focused on empowering women by employing microfinance projects or programs in many countries; however, a lack of empirical data exists regarding Salvadoran women's perceptions about how a sewing program with teamwork affects women's empowerment. The purpose of this case study was to understand the women's personal stories, their obstacles as well as any factors they saw as empowering them. Guided by a constructionist framework, a sample of 8 participants: 5 who were sewing students and 3 who were employees, who shared their administrative perspectives about participants' skills, data collection and data analysis methods gained. Five themes emerged from the women's interviews about their sewing program experience: (a) program effect on women's well-being; (b) gained a means of income; (c) increased self-efficacy, confidence, and security; (d) worked in groups or teams; and (e) the teacher's positive influence. The 5 sewing student participants reported they developed self-efficacy and self-fulfillment in the sewing program. The women attributed their success to the teacher, who taught them sewing skills and provided guidance and encouragement. This study contributes to social change by providing insight for additional women's studies on women's empowerment, social work with families and children, and for MSW social work students.