Cette thèse traite de la question des travaux d'aiguille dans la littérature et la culture victorienne. Ils apparaissent de manière récurrente dans les romans britanniques du dix-neuvième siècle et cristallisent bon nombre de sentiments contradictoires qui sont au coeur de la formation du sujet féminin. En dépit de leur omniprésence dans la culture victorienne, les travaux d'aiguille, associés à l'assujettissement des femmes, ont longtemps été déconsidérés par la critique. Cette thèse se propose de porter un nouveau regard sur l'artisanat féminin. A travers l'étude de sources très variées - romans, poèmes, manuels de couture, extraits de presse et les objets eux-mêmes - nous nous attachons à explorer les paradigmes complexes articulés par cette praxis, ainsi que la manière dont les travaux d'aiguille ont participé à l'articulation d'un « je » féminin. Considérée par les Victoriens comme l'activité féminine par excellence, la couture était pratiquée par toutes les femmes de tous âges et de toutes les classes sociales : ainsi, elle était au coeur du vécu et de l'identité féminine. Néanmoins, les travaux d'aiguille s'articulent autour de contradictions: il s'agissait d'une pratique à la fois amateur et professionnelle; ils encourageaient et cristallisaient la domestication des femmes, tout en imitant les modes de production industriels; ils étaient critiqués par bon nombre de femmes qui aspiraient à une plus grande ambition intellectuelle, mais étaient investis par d'autres comme un extraordinaire moyen d'expression. Ainsi, au dix-neuvième siècle la couture n'était pas une activité solitaire, mais plutôt une pratique sociale et discursive qui était pleinement engagée dans les problématiques sociales, économiques et culturelles de son temps. / This thesis deals with the question of needlework in Victorian literature and culture. Needlework is a constant and recurrent motif in nineteenth-century novels, and crystallises the many complex and contradictory feelings of satisfaction or resentment, creativity or censorship, elation or utter dejection that are crucial to the formation of the nineteenth-century female subject. In spite of its ubiquity, however, it has long been ignored or dismissed by critics as trivial, unimportant or revealing of the limitations imposed on Victorian women's lives. This thesis seeks to complicate previous assumptions by taking needlework on its own terms and exploring the complex and sophisticated tenets that underlie it. Relying on a large range of sources - novels, poems, magazines, craft manuals and material objects - this work examines the ways in which sewing has participated in the articulation of female subjectivity. Because it was construed as the ultimate feminine occupation and was undertaken by virtually ail women, regardless of age or social class, it was central to their identities and experience. However, needlework was fraught with contradictions: it was both amateur and professional; it enshrined the domestication of women, but it was closely allied with industrial modes of production; it was resented by many intellectually ambitious women, but was invested by others as a formidably evocative means of self-expression. Rather than a reclusive activity, then, Victorian needlework was a highly sociable practice which was fully engaged in the social, economic and cultural issues of its time.

Thesis (MTech. degree in Fashion) -- Tshwane University of Technology, 2008. / This dissertation sets out to describe the processes and dynamics at play in the development of a couture design range that attempts to engage with, and enhance notions of Namibian identity. While the end product of the practical work is a range of garments that speaks to and reflects a possible Namibian identity, the dissertation engages with the notions of identity and the dynamics of identity building, and the closer interrelationships with the creative process. The study intend to investigates design and design-related issues and how they impact on fashion design and couture design as well as how they relate to the identity formation processes in the development and justification of a possible Namibian couture collection. Therefore, the creative development process, the choices, negotiations and adaptations that the designer involves herself with, are described and then drawn through to the nature of new identity formations. The design process is measured against the basic design theories as outlined in the relevant chapters in the dissertation. The study reveals that Namibian individual identities are shaped by juxtaposing indigenous cultural identities in combination with what is “imagined” [as Anderson (2006:6-7) explained] to be a “Namibian” national identity. It considers how the designer, embedded in the design process, but also part of a particular identity, interacts with these tensions. The dissertation attempts to isolate material elements in the Namibian landscape that can be used in the identity-building process. It argues that the same Namibian material hallmarks of identity, the specific design elements that have been identified as “authentic” Namibian, have been used in this specific couture collection. Finally the study investigates how these design elements (both generic and specific) relate to the specific Namibian design element aspects in an attempt to see whether this specific couture collection contributes to “defining Namibian couture design”.

Th. 3e cycle--Hist. de l'art--Paris 4, 1987.

This project stems from the dualities joining two worlds: couture, the art of fashion and architecture, the art of building. They both involve the intelligible and the sensible, the skill of the artist and the engineer. Architecture tends towards the rational whereas fashion depends on the emotional. Architecture constructs rational things discovered through conventional methods. Fashion brings the emotional and the sheer immediacy and drama of momentary seasonal trends. This study is made up of two sections, the first, a collection of screen prints and images the second, a collection of conventional methods and projections. The gossamer like screen prints serve as cameras into the world within the Maison de Couture. They capture the essence of the creative process, always-in-motion spirit of a fashion house. The architectural projections describe the architectural skeleton of the Maison. The house is a place for expression; design, fabrication, and demonstration of the spectacle of couture. The heart of this building lies on the central longitudinal axis, where a double helix stair case rotates down to the basement level and spirals up to the rooftop level. Couture pieces are styled and modeled on a series of catwalks that are cartesian extensions of the stair landings. Invited guests can view the spectacle of the fashion show. The stair is a place to see and be seen. The stair becomes the spirit of the Maison de Couture. The works of art worn by the models trickle down the stair, one by one, allowing a select few to view these unique pieces for the first time. / Master of Architecture / This project explores the intersections and concepts that underlie the two disciplines: Architecture and Fashion. Both worlds revolve around the human body, ideas of space, texture, and movement. Each fulfills the need for shelter and protection; acting as a barrier between us and the surrounding environment. Both work to produce three-dimensional volumes from flat, modular materials. Perhaps the most exciting similarity, Fashion and Architecture are expressive art forms; they offer their creators a platform to communicate and project personal, political, and cultural identities into the world. Through the ages buildings and clothes have echoed one another in terms of concept and form; each look to the other for new technology of material, construction, and fabrication. While fashions are "of the moment," architecture has a more solidified presence, permanence. Time, timely, and timelessness are at the essence of both.

Webbdesign är ett hantverk med potential till oändlig variation och oräkneliga möjligheter, men det är även en process styrd av standarder och förhållningssätt för att optimera resultatet för slutanvändaren. Begrepp så som user experience och framför allt user experience design har i och med utvecklingen blivit allt viktigare aktörer inom webbdesign. Samtidigt som de underlättar i utvecklingsprocessen genom att diktera hur design bör utformas, skapar de inte också då begränsningar av potentialen för webbdesign? Antalet variationer och möjligheter minskar drastiskt när webbdesigners anpassar sig efter dessa standarder. Den här undersökningen syftar till att utveckla nya metoder och strategier för att främja innovativ webbdesign och undersöka hur modebranschens konstanta strävan efter innovation skulle kunna inspirera och kanske till och med förändra webbdesign utvecklingen. Genom att bryta ner, analysera och sammanfoga designprocesserna för haute couture och webbdesign skapas en designmetod som ger medvetenhet i designval och hjälper att ifrågasätta standarder samt att undersöka alternativa lösningar. Designmetoden kallar vi Webb couture och är ett resultat av undersökningens teoretiska efterforskningar kring user experience och haute couture, designmetoden tillämpas även praktiskt i gestaltningen av undersökningen. / Web design is a craft with unlimited potential for variations and possibilities, but it is also a process controlled by standards and guidelines to optimize results for the end-user. Concepts like User Experience and User Experience Design have through the development of the field become actors of great influence in web design. While they facilitate the development process by dictating how design should be designed, does it not also create limitations to the true potential of web design? The total number of variations and possibilities is reduced drastically when a web designer applies such standards. The goal of this study is to develop new methods and strategies to create innovative web design and to investigate how the fashion industry’s constant quest for innovation could be applied to transform web design. Through breaking down, analyzing and merging the design processes of haute couture and web design we created a design method that gives awareness to the design choices and helps to question the standards and explore alternative solutions. The design method is called Web couture which is a result of the study's theoretical research on user experience and haute couture, this design method is also applied in practice on a web production that is part of the study.

No description available.

Originalmente, os produtos de moda voltados ao mercado de luxo estavam associados a um elevado grau de refinamento, obtidos por meio de insumos valiosos, buscando aprimoramento em todos os processos que envolviam sua produção. O vestuário tangenciou aspectos de construção de luxo, sejam por meio dos materiais, cores, formas, ou mesmo, relações subjetivas e sociais que o luxo sempre apresentou. Utilizando o referencial teórico da semiótica discursiva, notadamente nas postulações de Algirdas Julien Greimas e de seus colaboradores, o presente estudo visa analisar as estratégias discursivas que tecem a significação do luxo e da alta-costura através dos arranjos de seus formantes plásticos. Foram investigadas as poéticas visuais propulsoras dos princípios ordenadores utilizadas na alta-costura contemporânea e posteriormente feito um recorte utilizando como corpus a altacostura da casa de moda Chanel, produzidas entre 2004 a 2014, totalizando 21 coleções. Foram examinadas como as criações vestimentares atuais são articuladas a fim de criar um discurso vestimentar singular e manter esta casa de moda como referência no universo do vestuário de luxo / Originally, fashion products aimed at the luxury market were associated with a high degree of refinement, obtained through valuable inputs, seeking improvement in all processes involving production. The clothing tangenciou aspects of building luxury, whether through the materials, colors, shapes, or even subjective and social relations that luxury always presented. Using the theoretical framework of semiotic discourse, notably in Algirdas Julien Greimas of postulations and its employees, this study aims to examine the discursive strategies that weave the meaning of luxury and haute couture through the arrangements of their plastic formants. The driving visual poetics of ordering principles used in contemporary haute couture were investigated and subsequently made a cutout using as corpus couture fashion house Chanel, produced between 2004-2014, totaling 21 collections. We examined how current vestimentares creations are hinged to create a singular discourse vestimentar and maintain this fashion house as a reference in the world of luxury clothing

Projektet är ett glasdesignprojekt där visionen var att ta fram en nyskapande belysningsarmatur för privat, offentlig och exklusiv miljö. Målet var att ta fram en nyskapande belysningsarmatur med avseende form, teknik och material med möjlighet till rationell tillverkning. Syftet var att undersöka glasets möjligheter, begränsningar och uttryck genom en komplex form och specifika krav på utseende. Jag ville undersöka glasets möjligheter och formbarhet. Hur mjukt och böljande går det att forma glaset? Kan glaset få samma mjukhet och svallande egenskaper som textil? Jag ville även undersöka hur ljuset påverkas av glasets form, tjocklek och färg. I projektet har jag fått ta hänsyn till många olika parametrar så som tillverkningsteknik, ljuskälla, ljustyp, tekniska lösningar m.m. Jag har även fått kompromissa när det gäller form och storlek på mitt objekt p.g.a den korta tiden. Objektet blåstes av Mikael Johansson i hyttan i Pukeberg. / This project is a glass design project with the vision to create a innovative armature for private, public and exclusive environment. The goal was to create a innovative armature in meaning of form, technique and material with contingency of rational production. The aim was to examine the possiblities, limitations and expression of the glass through a complex form and specific demands of appearance. I wanted to examine the possibilities and formablity of the glass. How smooth and billow can the glass be formed? Can the glass get the same softness and billow appearance as fabric? I also wanted to examine how light is affected by the shape, thickness and colour of the glass. In these project I have had to take into concideration several parameters, like manufacturing techniques, light source, light type, technical solutions etc. I also have had to compromise concerning form and size of my object due to the short project time. The objects where blown by Mikael Johansson in the blowing room of Pukeberg.

<p>Projektet är ett glasdesignprojekt där visionen var att ta fram en nyskapande belysningsarmatur för privat,</p><p>offentlig och exklusiv miljö.</p><p>Målet var att ta fram en nyskapande belysningsarmatur med avseende form, teknik och material med</p><p>möjlighet till rationell tillverkning. Syftet var att undersöka glasets möjligheter, begränsningar och uttryck genom en komplex form och specifika krav på utseende. Jag ville undersöka glasets möjligheter och</p><p>formbarhet. Hur mjukt och böljande går det att forma glaset? Kan glaset få samma mjukhet och svallande egenskaper som textil? Jag ville även undersöka hur ljuset påverkas av glasets form, tjocklek och färg.</p><p>I projektet har jag fått ta hänsyn till många olika parametrar så som tillverkningsteknik, ljuskälla, ljustyp, tekniska lösningar m.m. Jag har även fått kompromissa när det gäller form och storlek på mitt objekt p.g.a den korta tiden.</p><p>Objektet blåstes av Mikael Johansson i hyttan i Pukeberg.</p> / <p>This project is a glass design project with the vision to create a innovative armature for private, public and exclusive environment.</p><p>The goal was to create a innovative armature in meaning of form, technique and material with contingency of rational production. The aim was to examine the possiblities, limitations and expression of the glass through a complex form and specific demands of appearance. I wanted to examine the possibilities and formablity of the glass. How smooth and billow can the glass be formed? Can the glass get the same softness and billow</p><p>appearance as fabric? I also wanted to examine how light is affected by the shape, thickness and colour of the glass.</p><p>In these project I have had to take into concideration several parameters, like manufacturing techniques, light source, light type, technical solutions etc. I also have had to compromise concerning form and size of my object due to the short project time. The objects where blown by Mikael Johansson in the blowing room of Pukeberg.</p>

Originalmente, os produtos de moda voltados ao mercado de luxo estavam associados a um elevado grau de refinamento, obtidos por meio de insumos valiosos, buscando aprimoramento em todos os processos que envolviam sua produção. O vestuário tangenciou aspectos de construção de luxo, sejam por meio dos materiais, cores, formas, ou mesmo, relações subjetivas e sociais que o luxo sempre apresentou. Utilizando o referencial teórico da semiótica discursiva, notadamente nas postulações de Algirdas Julien Greimas e de seus colaboradores, o presente estudo visa analisar as estratégias discursivas que tecem a significação do luxo e da alta-costura através dos arranjos de seus formantes plásticos. Foram investigadas as poéticas visuais propulsoras dos princípios ordenadores utilizadas na alta-costura contemporânea e posteriormente feito um recorte utilizando como corpus a altacostura da casa de moda Chanel, produzidas entre 2004 a 2014, totalizando 21 coleções. Foram examinadas como as criações vestimentares atuais são articuladas a fim de criar um discurso vestimentar singular e manter esta casa de moda como referência no universo do vestuário de luxo / Originally, fashion products aimed at the luxury market were associated with a high degree of refinement, obtained through valuable inputs, seeking improvement in all processes involving production. The clothing tangenciou aspects of building luxury, whether through the materials, colors, shapes, or even subjective and social relations that luxury always presented. Using the theoretical framework of semiotic discourse, notably in Algirdas Julien Greimas of postulations and its employees, this study aims to examine the discursive strategies that weave the meaning of luxury and haute couture through the arrangements of their plastic formants. The driving visual poetics of ordering principles used in contemporary haute couture were investigated and subsequently made a cutout using as corpus couture fashion house Chanel, produced between 2004-2014, totaling 21 collections. We examined how current vestimentares creations are hinged to create a singular discourse vestimentar and maintain this fashion house as a reference in the world of luxury clothing