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  • About
  • The Global ETD Search service is a free service for researchers to find electronic theses and dissertations. This service is provided by the Networked Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations.
    Our metadata is collected from universities around the world. If you manage a university/consortium/country archive and want to be added, details can be found on the NDLTD website.
41

Desenvolvimento e avaliação da estabilidade e eficácia de formulações cosméticas contendo fosfato de cério com propriedades fotoprotetoras / Development, stability and efficacy evaluation of cosmetic formulations containing cerium phosphate with photoprotection proprieties.

Seixas, Vitor Cellia 25 July 2014 (has links)
O uso de formulações fotoprotetoras tem aumentando muito nas últimas décadas devido ao maior conhecimento dos danos causados pela radiação UV e maior preocupação com o fotoenvelhecimento. Desta maneira observa-se um grande esforço por parte dos pesquisadores e indústrias para o desenvolvimento de novos filtros solares estáveis, eficazes e que agradem ao consumidor. Neste contexto destaca-se o fosfato de cério (CePO4), substância proposta para ser utilizada como filtro solar inorgânico devido a sua alta absortividade no UV, além de apresentar baixa atividade fotocatalítica e relativa transparência na luz visível, diferente dos filtros inorgânicos comumente utilizados em fotoprotetores. Assim o objetivo do presente trabalho foi o desenvolvimento e avaliação da estabilidade e das propriedades fotoprotetoras de formulações cosméticas contendo CePO4. Inicialmente realizou-se a caracterização dos filtros solares inorgânicos em estudo para um melhor conhecimento das características do material. Posteriormente foi desenvolvida uma formulação base (F8) na qual se associou uma combinação de filtros orgânicos (F8A) a qual foi acrescida de filtros inorgânicos ZnO, TiO2 e CePO4 (F8B, F8C e F8D, respectivamente). Após a realização de testes preliminares de estabilidade, as formulações foram submetidas à avaliação da estabilidade física (reologia) e química (CLAE). Ainda, a atividade fotocatalítica destas formulações foi avaliada para verificar a influência dos filtros inorgânicos objeto de estudo na estabilidade da formulação. Observou-se que a formulação contendo CePO4 além de apresentar superior estabilidade, quando comparada com os tradicionais filtros inorgânicos, ainda demonstrou menor atividade fotocatalítica no veículo a qual foi acrescida. Em seguida a segurança das formulações foi avaliada por meio de ensaios de citotoxicidade em culturas de fibroblastos 3t3 e teste de irritabilidade cutânea in vivo. Nenhuma das formulações apresentou irritabilidade cutânea e o ainda o CePO4 apresentou ótima compatibilidade no estudo de citotoxicidade in vitro. As formulações foram então submetidas à avaliação da eficácia por determinação do FPS in vivo e apresentaram valores entre 19,9 e 22,9, não havendo diferença significativa entre elas. A avaliação do residual branco das formulações também foi estudada em placas de silicone e observou-se que quando acrescida de CePO4 a formulação apresenta menor efeito inestético, demonstrando mais um diferencial deste material, o que possibilitará a utilização em maiores concentrações dos já usuais filtros UV inorgânicos. Assim, podemos concluir que o material proposto como novo filtro inorgânico UV (CePO4), possui potencial para ser utilizado em fotoprotetores uma vez que foram demonstradas todas as características necessárias para tal, ou seja, estabilidade, segurança e eficácia comprovados. Ainda, o CePO4 permite o desenvolvimento de formulações com sensorial adequado para aplicação, proporcionando um menor residual branco na pele, fato que interfere diretamente na aplicação desta classe de produtos. / The use of sunscreens has increased in recent years due to increase of knowledge about the damage caused by UV radiation and a greater concern with the photoaging. Because of that, it have been observed a effort by the research community and industry to develop new stable and effective UV filters, and formulations with appropriate sensorial during application. In this context it could be emphasize the cerium phosphate (CePO4), material proposed to be used as inorganic UV filter due to its high absorptivity in the UV range, besides its low photocatalytic activity and relative transparency in visible light, unlike inorganic filters commonly used in sunscreens. Thus the aim of this study was the development and evaluation of stability and photoprotective efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing CePO4. Initially the CePO4 was evaluated for a better understanding of the characteristics of this material. Subsequently a base formulation (F8) containing a combination of organic UV filters (F8A) was increased by the inorganic filters ZnO, TiO2 and CePO4 (F8B , F8C and F8d , respectively). After conducting preliminary stability tests, the formulations were evaluated for their physical (rheology) and chemical (HPLC) stability. Then, the photocatalytic activity of these formulations was evaluated to verify the influence of the addition of inorganic UV filters in formulations stability. It was observed that the formulation containing CePO4 besides having superior stability compared with conventional inorganic filters, also showed a lower photocatalytic activity. After, the safety of the formulations was evaluated by means of cytotoxicity assays on 3T3 fibroblast cultures and in vivo irritability skin test. None of the formulations presented cutaneous irritability and, besides of that the CePO4 showed excellent compatibility in the in vitro cytotoxicity study. The efficacy of the studied formulations were then evaluated by determining the in vivo SPF and it was obtained values between 19.9 and 22.9, with no significant difference between the different formulations studied. Also, the evaluation of the white residual after application was assessed in silicon plates and it was observed that the formulation containing CePO4 shows less unaesthetic effect, demonstrating a differential of this material , which will allow the use in higher concentrations them the usual inorganic UV filters. Thus, we conclude that the material proposed as new inorganic UV filter (CePO4) has potential to be used in sunscreens with stability, safety and efficacy demonstrated. Further, the CePO4 allows the development of formulations with suitable sensory for application providing a smaller white residual on skin, which interferes directly in the application of these kin of products.
42

Desenvolvimento e validação de ensaios in Desenvolvimento e validação de ensaios in vitro usando culturas de células imortalizadas e primárias para avaliação da eficácia fotoprotetora de protetores solares empregando como parâmetros de medida as alterações induzidas na pele pelas radiações UVA e UVB / Development and validation of in vitro assys using immortalized and primary cells culture for the evaluation of the photoprotective efficacy of sunscreens using as measurement parameters the changes induced in the skin by UVA and UVB radiation

Figueiredo, Sônia Aparecida 07 December 2016 (has links)
A eficácia de protetores solares é determinada por métodos in vivo, que utilizam humanos, tais como: Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS), Immediate Pigment Darkening (IPD), Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) e Fator de Proteção UVA (FP-UVA). No entanto, esses parâmetros não refletem os efeitos danosos reais induzidos pela radiação solar sobre as estruturas e componentes celulares, como o DNA, lipídeos e proteínas. O objetivo deste estudo foi desenvolver ensaios in vitro com culturas de células para avaliar o potencial fotoprotetor de protetores solares empregando parâmetros biológicos que são alterados pela radiação UV. A primeira etapa deste estudo consistiu em selecionar a linhagem de células da pele (L929 ou HaCaT) que fornecesse a melhor relação entre dose de UVA ou UVB e o efeito danoso induzido. Este efeito foi quantificado pela medida da viabilidade celular, peroxidação lipídica e geração de espécies reativas de oxigênio (EROs). O melhor modelo de cultura celular foi tratado com protetores solares de duas marcas diferentes com FPSs de 15 a 60, obtidos no mercado local. Amostras dos fotoprotetores foram aplicadas em uma placa de quartzo colocada no topo de uma microplaca preenchida por células. A viabilidade celular e a peroxidação lipídica, medidas em fibroblastos L929, foram os parâmetros mais promissores para avaliar a eficácia de protetores solares expostos à UVB e permitiram discriminar o potencial fotoprotetor de formulações com diferentes FPSs. Por outro lado, a formação de EROs, expressa em queratinócitos HaCaT, provou ser um parametro biológico promissor para discriminar a eficácia de protetores solares com diferentes FPSs ou FPSs/PPDs, expostos à UVA. Atualmente, as empresas estão adicionando aos protetores solares filtros orgânicos que absorvem na região do UVA, principalmente na faixa do UVA-1. Alguns pesquisadores têm demonstrado que o proteoma é o alvo para as EROs induzidas por UVA. Essas EROs diminuem a atividade da calcineurina (Cn), enzima conhecida pelo seu papel no recrutamento de células T. A liberação do ânion fosfato do substrato, pela ação da enzima, reduz com o aumento da exposição da Cn à radiação UVA-1. Desta forma, um método foi desenvolvido com células primárias HDFn para a avaliação da eficácia fotoprotetora de protetores solares na faixa de UVA-1, empregando a medida da atividade da Cn. Os resultados mostraram que a redução da atividade da Cn só foi proporcional a dose de UVA-1 quando o homogeneizado de células HDFn, contendo 417,55 ± 8,79 ?g/mL de proteínas, foi exposto a diferentes doses de UVA-1. Quando as culturas de células foram irradiadas por diferentes doses de UVA-1, não foi observado diminuição da atividade da enzima. Em adição, para maior precisão na medida da atividade enzimática, os homogeneizados, expostos ou não à luz UVA-1 e protegidos ou não por diferentes protetores solares, tiveram que ser diluídos na proporção de 1:2 em tampão ensaio 2x (1:1, v/v), antes da quantificação do fosfato por verde de malaquita. A medida da atividade da Cn mostrou ser um ensaio eficiente para diferenciar fotoprotetores adicionados de filtros orgânicos específicos para faixa de UVA-1 (marca B) daqueles não adicionados desses filtros (marca A). Como também, o ensaio foi capaz de diferenciar os protetores solares da marca B, com diferentes valores de PPD: fotoprotetor com PPD-15 não foi capaz de evitar a redução da atividade enzimática, semelhante ao homogeneizado exposto à luz UVA-1 sem proteção, mas diferenciou dos demais PPDs; PPDs 25 e 41 protegeram a atividade da Cn em 34,53 ± 4,15% e 38,19 ± 5,50%, respectivamente. Assim, os parâmetros biológicos testados neste estudo podem atuar como alternativas complementares para avaliação da eficácia de fotoprotetores. / The effectiveness of sunscreens is usually determined by in vivo methods, which use humans, such as Sun Protection Factor (SPF), Immediate Pigment Darkening (IPD), Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) and UVA Protection Factor (UVA-PF). However, these parameters do not reflect the real damaging effects induced by solar radiation on the structures and cellular components as the DNA, lipids and proteins. The aim of this study was to develop in vitro methods with cell culture to assess the photoprotective potential of sunscreens using biological parameters that are changed by UV radiation. The first stage of this study to select the skin cells strain (L929 or HaCaT) that would provide the best relationship between dose of UVA or UVB radiation and induced deleterious effect. This effect was quantified by measuring cell viability, lipid peroxidation and generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The best cell culture model was treated with commercial sunscreens two brands with SPF 15- 60, obtained from a local market. Sunscreens samples were applied in a quartz plate placed on top of a microplate filled with cells. The cell viability and lipid peroxidation measured in L929 fibroblasts were the most promising for evaluating the efficacy of sunscreens exposed to UVB radiation and allowed to discriminate the photoprotective potential of formulations with different SPFs. On the other hand, ROS generation expressed in keratinocyte of the HaCaT proved to be a promising biological test for discriminating the effectiveness of sunscreens with different SPFs or SPFs/PPDs exposed to UVA radiation. Currently, companies are adding organic filters in sunscreens that absorb in the UVA region, especially in the UVA-1 range. Some researchers have shown that proteomics is the target for ROS induced by UVA. These ROS decrease the activity of calcineurin (Cn), an enzyme known for its role in T cell recruitment. The release of phosphate anion from substrate by enzyme action, it reduces with increasing exposure of Cn to UVA-1 radiation. Thus, a method was developed with HDFn primary cells for evaluation of photoprotective efficacy of sunscreens in the UVA-1 range, using the measure of Cn activity. The results showed that the reduction of Cn activity was only proportional to the dose of UVA-1 when the HDFn cell homogenate, containing 417.55 ± 8.79 mg/mL protein, was exposed to different doses of UVA-1. When cell cultures were irradiated with different doses of UVA-1, there was no reduction in enzyme activity. In addition, for greater precision in the measurement of enzymatic activity, the homogenates, exposed or not to UVA-1 radiation and protected or not with different sunscreens, they had to be diluted at a ratio of 1:2 in buffer before of phosphate quantification for malachite green. The measure of Cn activity proved to be an efficient test to differentiate photoprotectors added specific organic filters for UVA range (brand B) of those not added these filters (brand A). As well, the assay was able to differentiate the sunscreens of brand B, but with different values of PPD: photoprotector with PPD-15 was not able to prevent the reduction of enzyme activity, similar to the homogenate exposed to UVA light without protection, but differentiated from other PPDs; PPDs 25 and 41 protected the activity of Cn to 34.53 ± 4.15% and 38.19 ± 5.50%, respectively. Thus, the biological parameters tested in this study can serve as additional alternatives for assessing the effectiveness of sunscreens.
43

Desenvolvimento e validação de ensaios in Desenvolvimento e validação de ensaios in vitro usando culturas de células imortalizadas e primárias para avaliação da eficácia fotoprotetora de protetores solares empregando como parâmetros de medida as alterações induzidas na pele pelas radiações UVA e UVB / Development and validation of in vitro assys using immortalized and primary cells culture for the evaluation of the photoprotective efficacy of sunscreens using as measurement parameters the changes induced in the skin by UVA and UVB radiation

Sônia Aparecida Figueiredo 07 December 2016 (has links)
A eficácia de protetores solares é determinada por métodos in vivo, que utilizam humanos, tais como: Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS), Immediate Pigment Darkening (IPD), Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) e Fator de Proteção UVA (FP-UVA). No entanto, esses parâmetros não refletem os efeitos danosos reais induzidos pela radiação solar sobre as estruturas e componentes celulares, como o DNA, lipídeos e proteínas. O objetivo deste estudo foi desenvolver ensaios in vitro com culturas de células para avaliar o potencial fotoprotetor de protetores solares empregando parâmetros biológicos que são alterados pela radiação UV. A primeira etapa deste estudo consistiu em selecionar a linhagem de células da pele (L929 ou HaCaT) que fornecesse a melhor relação entre dose de UVA ou UVB e o efeito danoso induzido. Este efeito foi quantificado pela medida da viabilidade celular, peroxidação lipídica e geração de espécies reativas de oxigênio (EROs). O melhor modelo de cultura celular foi tratado com protetores solares de duas marcas diferentes com FPSs de 15 a 60, obtidos no mercado local. Amostras dos fotoprotetores foram aplicadas em uma placa de quartzo colocada no topo de uma microplaca preenchida por células. A viabilidade celular e a peroxidação lipídica, medidas em fibroblastos L929, foram os parâmetros mais promissores para avaliar a eficácia de protetores solares expostos à UVB e permitiram discriminar o potencial fotoprotetor de formulações com diferentes FPSs. Por outro lado, a formação de EROs, expressa em queratinócitos HaCaT, provou ser um parametro biológico promissor para discriminar a eficácia de protetores solares com diferentes FPSs ou FPSs/PPDs, expostos à UVA. Atualmente, as empresas estão adicionando aos protetores solares filtros orgânicos que absorvem na região do UVA, principalmente na faixa do UVA-1. Alguns pesquisadores têm demonstrado que o proteoma é o alvo para as EROs induzidas por UVA. Essas EROs diminuem a atividade da calcineurina (Cn), enzima conhecida pelo seu papel no recrutamento de células T. A liberação do ânion fosfato do substrato, pela ação da enzima, reduz com o aumento da exposição da Cn à radiação UVA-1. Desta forma, um método foi desenvolvido com células primárias HDFn para a avaliação da eficácia fotoprotetora de protetores solares na faixa de UVA-1, empregando a medida da atividade da Cn. Os resultados mostraram que a redução da atividade da Cn só foi proporcional a dose de UVA-1 quando o homogeneizado de células HDFn, contendo 417,55 ± 8,79 ?g/mL de proteínas, foi exposto a diferentes doses de UVA-1. Quando as culturas de células foram irradiadas por diferentes doses de UVA-1, não foi observado diminuição da atividade da enzima. Em adição, para maior precisão na medida da atividade enzimática, os homogeneizados, expostos ou não à luz UVA-1 e protegidos ou não por diferentes protetores solares, tiveram que ser diluídos na proporção de 1:2 em tampão ensaio 2x (1:1, v/v), antes da quantificação do fosfato por verde de malaquita. A medida da atividade da Cn mostrou ser um ensaio eficiente para diferenciar fotoprotetores adicionados de filtros orgânicos específicos para faixa de UVA-1 (marca B) daqueles não adicionados desses filtros (marca A). Como também, o ensaio foi capaz de diferenciar os protetores solares da marca B, com diferentes valores de PPD: fotoprotetor com PPD-15 não foi capaz de evitar a redução da atividade enzimática, semelhante ao homogeneizado exposto à luz UVA-1 sem proteção, mas diferenciou dos demais PPDs; PPDs 25 e 41 protegeram a atividade da Cn em 34,53 ± 4,15% e 38,19 ± 5,50%, respectivamente. Assim, os parâmetros biológicos testados neste estudo podem atuar como alternativas complementares para avaliação da eficácia de fotoprotetores. / The effectiveness of sunscreens is usually determined by in vivo methods, which use humans, such as Sun Protection Factor (SPF), Immediate Pigment Darkening (IPD), Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) and UVA Protection Factor (UVA-PF). However, these parameters do not reflect the real damaging effects induced by solar radiation on the structures and cellular components as the DNA, lipids and proteins. The aim of this study was to develop in vitro methods with cell culture to assess the photoprotective potential of sunscreens using biological parameters that are changed by UV radiation. The first stage of this study to select the skin cells strain (L929 or HaCaT) that would provide the best relationship between dose of UVA or UVB radiation and induced deleterious effect. This effect was quantified by measuring cell viability, lipid peroxidation and generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The best cell culture model was treated with commercial sunscreens two brands with SPF 15- 60, obtained from a local market. Sunscreens samples were applied in a quartz plate placed on top of a microplate filled with cells. The cell viability and lipid peroxidation measured in L929 fibroblasts were the most promising for evaluating the efficacy of sunscreens exposed to UVB radiation and allowed to discriminate the photoprotective potential of formulations with different SPFs. On the other hand, ROS generation expressed in keratinocyte of the HaCaT proved to be a promising biological test for discriminating the effectiveness of sunscreens with different SPFs or SPFs/PPDs exposed to UVA radiation. Currently, companies are adding organic filters in sunscreens that absorb in the UVA region, especially in the UVA-1 range. Some researchers have shown that proteomics is the target for ROS induced by UVA. These ROS decrease the activity of calcineurin (Cn), an enzyme known for its role in T cell recruitment. The release of phosphate anion from substrate by enzyme action, it reduces with increasing exposure of Cn to UVA-1 radiation. Thus, a method was developed with HDFn primary cells for evaluation of photoprotective efficacy of sunscreens in the UVA-1 range, using the measure of Cn activity. The results showed that the reduction of Cn activity was only proportional to the dose of UVA-1 when the HDFn cell homogenate, containing 417.55 ± 8.79 mg/mL protein, was exposed to different doses of UVA-1. When cell cultures were irradiated with different doses of UVA-1, there was no reduction in enzyme activity. In addition, for greater precision in the measurement of enzymatic activity, the homogenates, exposed or not to UVA-1 radiation and protected or not with different sunscreens, they had to be diluted at a ratio of 1:2 in buffer before of phosphate quantification for malachite green. The measure of Cn activity proved to be an efficient test to differentiate photoprotectors added specific organic filters for UVA range (brand B) of those not added these filters (brand A). As well, the assay was able to differentiate the sunscreens of brand B, but with different values of PPD: photoprotector with PPD-15 was not able to prevent the reduction of enzyme activity, similar to the homogenate exposed to UVA light without protection, but differentiated from other PPDs; PPDs 25 and 41 protected the activity of Cn to 34.53 ± 4.15% and 38.19 ± 5.50%, respectively. Thus, the biological parameters tested in this study can serve as additional alternatives for assessing the effectiveness of sunscreens.
44

Desenvolvimento e avaliação da estabilidade e eficácia de formulações cosméticas contendo fosfato de cério com propriedades fotoprotetoras / Development, stability and efficacy evaluation of cosmetic formulations containing cerium phosphate with photoprotection proprieties.

Vitor Cellia Seixas 25 July 2014 (has links)
O uso de formulações fotoprotetoras tem aumentando muito nas últimas décadas devido ao maior conhecimento dos danos causados pela radiação UV e maior preocupação com o fotoenvelhecimento. Desta maneira observa-se um grande esforço por parte dos pesquisadores e indústrias para o desenvolvimento de novos filtros solares estáveis, eficazes e que agradem ao consumidor. Neste contexto destaca-se o fosfato de cério (CePO4), substância proposta para ser utilizada como filtro solar inorgânico devido a sua alta absortividade no UV, além de apresentar baixa atividade fotocatalítica e relativa transparência na luz visível, diferente dos filtros inorgânicos comumente utilizados em fotoprotetores. Assim o objetivo do presente trabalho foi o desenvolvimento e avaliação da estabilidade e das propriedades fotoprotetoras de formulações cosméticas contendo CePO4. Inicialmente realizou-se a caracterização dos filtros solares inorgânicos em estudo para um melhor conhecimento das características do material. Posteriormente foi desenvolvida uma formulação base (F8) na qual se associou uma combinação de filtros orgânicos (F8A) a qual foi acrescida de filtros inorgânicos ZnO, TiO2 e CePO4 (F8B, F8C e F8D, respectivamente). Após a realização de testes preliminares de estabilidade, as formulações foram submetidas à avaliação da estabilidade física (reologia) e química (CLAE). Ainda, a atividade fotocatalítica destas formulações foi avaliada para verificar a influência dos filtros inorgânicos objeto de estudo na estabilidade da formulação. Observou-se que a formulação contendo CePO4 além de apresentar superior estabilidade, quando comparada com os tradicionais filtros inorgânicos, ainda demonstrou menor atividade fotocatalítica no veículo a qual foi acrescida. Em seguida a segurança das formulações foi avaliada por meio de ensaios de citotoxicidade em culturas de fibroblastos 3t3 e teste de irritabilidade cutânea in vivo. Nenhuma das formulações apresentou irritabilidade cutânea e o ainda o CePO4 apresentou ótima compatibilidade no estudo de citotoxicidade in vitro. As formulações foram então submetidas à avaliação da eficácia por determinação do FPS in vivo e apresentaram valores entre 19,9 e 22,9, não havendo diferença significativa entre elas. A avaliação do residual branco das formulações também foi estudada em placas de silicone e observou-se que quando acrescida de CePO4 a formulação apresenta menor efeito inestético, demonstrando mais um diferencial deste material, o que possibilitará a utilização em maiores concentrações dos já usuais filtros UV inorgânicos. Assim, podemos concluir que o material proposto como novo filtro inorgânico UV (CePO4), possui potencial para ser utilizado em fotoprotetores uma vez que foram demonstradas todas as características necessárias para tal, ou seja, estabilidade, segurança e eficácia comprovados. Ainda, o CePO4 permite o desenvolvimento de formulações com sensorial adequado para aplicação, proporcionando um menor residual branco na pele, fato que interfere diretamente na aplicação desta classe de produtos. / The use of sunscreens has increased in recent years due to increase of knowledge about the damage caused by UV radiation and a greater concern with the photoaging. Because of that, it have been observed a effort by the research community and industry to develop new stable and effective UV filters, and formulations with appropriate sensorial during application. In this context it could be emphasize the cerium phosphate (CePO4), material proposed to be used as inorganic UV filter due to its high absorptivity in the UV range, besides its low photocatalytic activity and relative transparency in visible light, unlike inorganic filters commonly used in sunscreens. Thus the aim of this study was the development and evaluation of stability and photoprotective efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing CePO4. Initially the CePO4 was evaluated for a better understanding of the characteristics of this material. Subsequently a base formulation (F8) containing a combination of organic UV filters (F8A) was increased by the inorganic filters ZnO, TiO2 and CePO4 (F8B , F8C and F8d , respectively). After conducting preliminary stability tests, the formulations were evaluated for their physical (rheology) and chemical (HPLC) stability. Then, the photocatalytic activity of these formulations was evaluated to verify the influence of the addition of inorganic UV filters in formulations stability. It was observed that the formulation containing CePO4 besides having superior stability compared with conventional inorganic filters, also showed a lower photocatalytic activity. After, the safety of the formulations was evaluated by means of cytotoxicity assays on 3T3 fibroblast cultures and in vivo irritability skin test. None of the formulations presented cutaneous irritability and, besides of that the CePO4 showed excellent compatibility in the in vitro cytotoxicity study. The efficacy of the studied formulations were then evaluated by determining the in vivo SPF and it was obtained values between 19.9 and 22.9, with no significant difference between the different formulations studied. Also, the evaluation of the white residual after application was assessed in silicon plates and it was observed that the formulation containing CePO4 shows less unaesthetic effect, demonstrating a differential of this material , which will allow the use in higher concentrations them the usual inorganic UV filters. Thus, we conclude that the material proposed as new inorganic UV filter (CePO4) has potential to be used in sunscreens with stability, safety and efficacy demonstrated. Further, the CePO4 allows the development of formulations with suitable sensory for application providing a smaller white residual on skin, which interferes directly in the application of these kin of products.
45

Probing the environmental fate of emerging contaminants and their ecological impacts on aquatic environment

Sang, Ziye 23 June 2016 (has links)
In recent years, new classes of aquatic pollutants have received growing concerns from the environmentalists due to their unclear effects and increasing release into the water environment. Generally, before entering the aquatic ecosystem, many of these emerging contaminants are deemed safe active ingredients in the commercial products. This may lead to the underestimation of their potential impacts to the environment, once these substances were drained into the natural waters. So far, a wide range of emerging contaminants are still not well studied. In this thesis work, the environmental behaviors for two typical groups of emerging contaminants, which are frequently used in personal care products, are systematically probed in the aquatic ecosystem. One is the hydrophilic compounds - artificial sweeteners and the other one is the moderate hydrophobic compounds - ultraviolet (UV) filters. Acesulfame and sucralose are two of the most commonly used artificial sweeteners, which are a newly recognized class of emerging contaminants due to their widespread occurrence and extreme persistence in water environment. To date, however, their environmental behaviors, fates as well as long term ecotoxicological contributions in our water resources still remain largely unknown. In this work, a photodegradation investigation with UV/TiO2 was performed on these two artificial sweeteners, which projected their potential impacts under prolonged exposure to intensive solar irradiation. Real-time observation of the degradation profiles in both sweeteners illustrated that formation of new photo by-products under prolonged UV irradiation is highly viable. For the first time, acute toxicity for the degradates of these two sweeteners were measured and the enhancement in their ecotoxicity has been observed during the irradiation. In an attempt to neutralize this prolonged environmental threat, the feasibility of UV/TiO2 as an effective mineralization process in wastewater treatment was evaluated for both sweeteners. As a result, relatively higher removal efficiencies for acesulfame and sucralose were achieved in this study. For UV filters, a comprehensive investigation on their environmental behaviors and impacts was described in this thesis, covering the occurrence study in surface water and biota, environmental fate and their ecological risks. In the first step, an analytical method based on ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS) was developed for the simultaneous determination of twelve UV filters in the environmental waters, which achieved good sensitivity to sub-ng/L levels. To monitoring their occurrence in local marine environment, the regional distribution of these sunscreen compounds was monitored along the coastline of Hong Kong. At the same time, considering the intensive consumption of sunscreen products in hot weathers, seasonal variation of UV filters between summer and winter was taken into consideration in our occurrence study. Additionally, we also monitored their occurrence in the drinking water supply system of Hong Kong, including the source water in Dongjiang, raw water in local reservoirs and tap water collected from urban communities, to support a good management on the reliable water supply. Furthermore, the distribution results indicated that the incomplete removal of UV filters in the effluents could be a major source for their release into the environmental waters. Aiming to achieve the complete removal of such compounds, a powerful technique of ozonation was employed in this study and the preliminary operational conditions were further provided. Secondly, in order to gain a better understanding of their environmental fate in surface water, a simulative catalytic photodegradation study with UV/TiO2 were performed to investigate the photostability, phototoxicity and the transformation pathways of seven selected UV filters. During the photodegradation, several transformation products were primarily identified. Thirdly, since lipophilic sunscreens were easily accumulated in the biota, we also made efforts to monitor their occurrence in marine organisms of different species, including farmed fish, wild mussels, prawns and sea urchin, which were collected from local offshore areas. Last but not the least, according to the measured concentrations of UV filters in Hong Kong marine environment, we further performed the ecological risk assessment with the approach specific to the marine aquatic compartment, so as to provide the overall understanding on the environmental impacts of these UV filters.
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Formulation et caractérisation de particules lipidiques submicroniques encapsulant des filtres ultraviolets organiques et inorganiques / Formulation and characterization of submicronic lipid particles encapsulating organic and inorganic UV filters

Gilbert, Elodie 16 December 2015 (has links)
Les écrans solaires sont des formulations dont l’application permet de protéger la peau des effets néfastes du rayonnement ultraviolet (UV) et notamment de l’apparition des cancers cutanés. Ces formulations contiennent des filtres UV organiques et/ou inorganiques. Certains filtres UV organiques sont connus pour pénétrer la peau et engendrer des réactions allergiques et photo-allergiques. De plus, certains d’entre eux peuvent engendrer des effets toxiques sur les cellules cutanées vivantes et atteindre la circulation systémique. Les filtres UV inorganiques sont la plupart du temps incorporés dans les écrans solaires sous forme de nanoparticules afin d’améliorer les qualités esthétiques des écrans solaires minéraux. Les nanoparticules utilisées comme filtres UV inorganiques exerceraient des effets toxiques sur les cellules nucléées de la peau. Les nanoparticules et nanocapsules lipidiques sont des particules lipidiques submicroniques intéressantes pour formuler les actifs pharmaceutiques et cosmétiques et notamment les filtres UV. L’objectif de ce travail était de développer des suspensions de nanoparticules lipidiques pour formuler des filtres UV inorganiques et organiques en les maintenant à la surface de la peau tout en augmentant leur efficacité photo-protectrice. Ces travaux ont permis de développer des suspensions de nanoparticules lipidiques encapsulant des filtres UV inorganiques en augmentant leur pouvoir photo-protecteur. Cette étude a également mis en évidence l’intérêt de ces suspensions de nanoparticules lipidiques pour encapsuler un filtre UV organique et limiter sa perméation percutanée tout en augmentant son efficacité filtrante dans le domaine UV / Sunscreens are topical formulations that protect the skin against damages induced by ultraviolet (UV) radiations and notably skin cancers formation. Those formulations contain organic and/or inorganic UV filters. Some organic UV filters are known to penetrate the skin and trigger allergic and photo-allergic cutaneous reactions. Moreover, some of them are responsible for toxic effects on skin nucleated cells and could reach systemic circulation. Nanoparticles of inorganic UV filters are often incorporated into sunscreens to improve their aesthetic qualities. Nanoparticles used as inorganic UV filters could exercise toxic effects on skin nucleated cells. Lipid nanoparticles and nanocapsules are submicronic lipid particles interesting to formulate pharmaceutical and cosmetic active compounds and notably UV filters. The aim of this work was to develop lipid nanoparticles to entrap organic and inorganic UV filters maintaining them at skin surface while increasing their photo-protection efficiency. This study permitted to develop lipid nanoparticle suspensions entrapping inorganic UV filters enhancing their photo-protection efficiency. This work also highlighted the interest of these lipid nanoparticle suspensions to entrap an organic UV filter avoiding its percutaneous permeation while enhancing its photo-protection efficiency
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Développement et formulations de produits solaires conditionnés sous forme d'aérosol

Durand, Laurence 25 May 2010 (has links)
L’exposition au soleil, et donc aux rayons ultraviolets, est de plus en plus fréquente chez l’homme dans les pays occidentaux. En effet, les modes de vie ont fortement changé ces dernières années, avec pour résultat une augmentation non négligeable des loisirs en extérieur. Ceci a pour conséquence une augmentation de l’apparition des cancers cutanés, dont le pronostic de survie est souvent mauvais et l’issue fatale. De plus, les traitements associés à ces maladies sont lourds et n’agissent pas toujours de façon efficace. Les campagnes d’information et de prévention face aux dangers du soleil restent donc les principales mesures efficaces pour lutter contre le cancer cutané lié à une surexposition au soleil. La recherche de nouveaux produits permettant de protéger de manière efficace la peau des effets néfastes des rayons UV reste donc un défi permanent et primordial pour la recherche dans l’industrie cosmétique. <p><p> Dans un premier temps, le travail a consisté à développer des nouvelles formulations de produits solaires contenant des concentrations élevées en filtres UV, conditionnées sous forme d’aérosol, celles-ci valables pour le marché européen. Une émulsion E/H et une émulsion E/Si ont donc été réalisées. Elles contenaient au final 27% de filtres UV pour l’émulsion E/H et 16,5% de filtres UV pour l’émulsion E/Si, dont 4% de filtres inorganiques pour les deux types d’émulsion. Leur viscosité était de 6800 mPa.s pour l’émulsion E/H et de 2800 mPa.s pour l’émulsion E/Si. Ces formulations étaient stables lorsqu’elles étaient conservées pendant 2 mois à 40°C et également lorsqu’elles subissaient 5 cycles de température entre 5°C et 40°C. La mise en aérosol de ces émulsions a nécessité l’utilisation de 22% de gaz propulseur (mélange :butane, propane, isobutane). <p>La taille des gouttelettes étant un paramètre important de la caractérisation des aérosols pour le choix des matériaux à utiliser ainsi que pour sécurité afin d’éviter toute inhalation pulmonaire, l’influence de différents éléments sur celle-ci a été étudiée. Nous avons ainsi montré que la concentration en gaz, la viscosité, la présence ou non de filtres inorganiques ainsi que le choix des valves et diffuseurs utilisés jouent un rôle dans la taille des gouttelettes émises, celle-ci ne pouvant pas être inférieure à 30 µm de diamètre. La taille des gouttelettes émises était supérieure à 50 µm avec pas plus de 0.1% ayant une taille inférieure à 10 µm et maximum 25% des gouttelettes ayant une taille comprise entre 10 et 30 µm. <p><p> Les produits formulés contenaient de grandes quantités en filtres solaires, organiques et inorganiques (27% pour l’émulsion E/H et 16,6% pour l’émulsion E/Si), il était donc important de vérifier qu’aucun des filtres présents dans les émulsions ne passaient à travers la peau lors de l’application des produits solaires. En effet, ceux-ci doivent rester à la surface de l’épiderme afin de maintenir l’efficacité des produits solaires et d’éviter des effets néfastes systémiques éventuels en pénétrant la peau. Une étude in vitro utilisant de la peau humaine excisée et des cellules de diffusion de Franz nous a permis de constater que les filtres inorganiques présents dans les formulations restaient en surface de la peau, et seulement deux des filtres organiques (l’EMC et MBBT) présentaient un potentiel de pénétration cutanée négligeable et non nocif pour la santé humaine (maximum 1,21 µg/ml/cm2 pour EMC et maximum 0,14 µg/ml/cm2 pour MBBT). De plus, après 24 h d’expérience, plus de 50% des filtres restaient à la surface de la peau, ce qui permettait de maintenir l’efficacité des produits solaires. Afin de mener à bien cette étude, des méthodes analytiques pour l’analyse simultanée des filtres solaires organiques d’une part, par CLHP (Chromatographie Liquide Haute Performance), et inorganiques d’autre part, par ICP-OES (Inductively Coupled Plasma - Optical Emission Spectrometry), ont été mises au point et validées. <p>Une étude in vivo non invasive, basée sur le prélèvement des couches successives du stratum corneum, a été réalisée par la suite. Cette dernière a été effectuée par la méthode du « tape stripping », qui utilise des disques adhésifs rigides, et sur 9 volontaires pendant une période de 8 h. Elle a permis de confirmer les résultats obtenus avec la méthode in vitro. Une bonne corrélation entre ces deux types d’étude a été observée. <p><p> Enfin, la dernière partie du travail a porté sur l’EMC, un des filtres organiques utilisé dans la plupart des produits solaires mis sur le marché et dans les émulsions E/H et E/Si formulées. Ce filtre présente une sensibilité à la lumière et aux rayons UV. L’encapsulation lipidique de celui-ci a donc été envisagée afin de produire des nanoparticules dont la matrice lipidique a pour but de protéger l’EMC contre une dégradation causée par les rayons UV. Trois lipides différents ont été investigués et ont montré des résultats positifs de protection vis-à-vis des rayonnements UV. En effet, après 2 h d’irradiation par les UV, une perte d’efficacité de 30% de l’EMC pur a été observée contre 10% à 21% pour l’EMC encapsulé par les différents lipides. De plus, les nanoparticules n’ont pas montré de potentiel d’augmentation de pénétration cutanée de l’EMC. <p> / Doctorat en Sciences biomédicales et pharmaceutiques / info:eu-repo/semantics/nonPublished
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Study of the mechanism of radiation- and photo-induced oxidation of methionine containing peptides / Oxydation radio- et photo-induite de peptides contenant la méthionine / Badanie mechanizmów indukowanych fotochemicznie i radiacyjnie reakcji utleniania peptydów zawierających metioninę

Ignasiak, Marta 29 May 2014 (has links)
Plusieurs facteurs conduisent à la génération de radicaux libres oxydants dans les organismes qui endommagent les biomolécules et en particulier les protéines du vivant. L’une des cibles de l’oxydation dans les protéines est la méthionine (Met). Son oxydation provoque des effets très dommageables, comme la maladie d’Alzheimer ou les maladies à prion. Nous avons étudié la réaction des radicaux hydroxyle (•OH) et de l’état triplet de la 3-carboxybenzophénone (3CB*) avec ces peptides. Le but de ce travail était de caractériser les espèces transitoires et les produits stables formés après oxydation radiolytique et photolytique de peptides contenant la Met (les dipeptides contenant de la Met et les pepetides plus longs tels que la bradykinine, une hormone humaine importante impliquée dans la diminution de la pression artérielle). Nous avons utilisé la photolyse éclair laser (LFP) et la radiolyse pulsée (PR) (pour les espèces transitoires de courte durée de vie), tandis que la radiolyse gamma et la photolyse continue (pour obtenir une caractérisation des produits stables). Les modifications structurelles ont été caractérisées par des techniques de HPLC et par couplage de la spectrométrie de masse (MS) et la détection par spectrométrie infrarouge couplée à la MS (IRMPD, CLIO laser à électrons libres). En outre, il nous a paru intéressant d’étudier deux autres dérivés de la benzophénone (BP), l’oxybenzone (OXB) et le sulisobenzone (SB), qui sont largement utilisés dans les produits de protection solaire commerciaux. En effet, l’application d’écrans solaires est controversée car certaines études épidémiologiques ont indiqué un risque accru de mélanome malin pour leurs utilisateurs. L’oxydation de dipeptides contenant Met par les radicaux •OH ou photosensibilisée par la ³(CB)* a conduit à la formation de radicaux cations centrés sur le soufre de la Met (>S•⁺) qui ont été en outre stabilisés par la formation de liaison deux centres à trois électrons (S∴Y)⁺, Y étant un atome possédant un doublet libre, ou qui ont subi une déprotonation donnant les radicaux contrés sur le carbone en α (α-S). L’oxydation des dipeptides par •OH a abouti à la formation de sulfoxyde de Met (MetSO) en tant que produit principal. Sans aucun doute, l’identification et la caractérisation des MetSO en solutions désoxygénées contenant la catalase est une étape importante dans la quête de produits stables. Toutefois, dans certains cas, d’autres produits ont été identifiés. En ce qui concerne, les produits stables de photolyse, ce sont des adduits avec le groupement 3CB, probablement résultant de la réaction de recombinaison radical-radical. Un autre produit formé au cours de la photolyse était 3CB-3CB résultant d’une photo-addition, qui a une structure similaire à celle du produit d’irradiations de la BP. Tous les produits identifiés (MetSO et la photo-adduits) ont été formés à partir des radicaux α-S par l’intermédiaire d’une dismutation ou une réaction avec 3CBH•/3CB•⁻. L’oxydation de la Met-Lys-bradykinine (MKBR) a abouti à la formation de photo-adduits similaires par réaction sensibilisée avec 3CB. L’oxydation induite de MKBR par •OH a abouti à plusieurs produits, en accord avec la non sélectivité des radicaux •OH. L’un des principaux produits est le MetSO et la phénylalanine hydroxylée. Notons que l’arginine n’est pas oxydée. Enfin, la photolyse de SB et OXB a été étudiée à l’aide de photolyse éclair au laser femto-et nanoseconde, ainsi que l’oxydation à un électron de ces molécules par radicaux •OH ont été réalisées en PR. Les résultats obtenus ont été comparés à ceux d’autres dérivés de la BP. L’état singulet excité subit un quenching à 100 % par transfert de proton intraomléculaire à l’état excité (ESIPT) en milieu aprotique et en milieu non polaire. Dans le cas d’un solvant polaire, la formation de radicaux phénoxyles a été identifiée. La réactivité des filtres solaires UV-excité vers dérivés simples de méthionine est également en cours d’étude. / Several factors (radiation, metabolism, pollutants) lead to the generation of oxidizing free radicals in living organisms that damage all biomolecules and especially proteins. One of the protein targets is Methionine (Met). Its oxidation causes highly damaging effects, such as Alzheimer’s or prion disease. The aim of this work was to investigate the transient species and the stable products formed after radiolytic and photolytic oxidation of Met-containing peptides. The reaction of hydroxyl radicals (•OH) and 3-carboxybenzophenone triplet state with Met-residue in peptides was investigated for model compounds (Met-dipeptides) and for longer peptides (e.g. Bradykinin). Laser flash photolysis and pulse radiolysis were used to characterize short-lived transient species, while gamma radiolysis and steady-state photolysis were used for quantitative and qualitative characterization of stable products. The structural modifications induced by oxidation have been characterized by the HPLC coupled with mass spectrometry and Infrared Multi Photon Dissociation Spectroscopy (IRMPD, CLIO Free electron laser). The oxidation of investigated Met-containing compounds by •OH or 3CB* led to the formation of S-centered radical cation >S•+ on Met-residue, that were further stabilized by formation of two-centered three-electron bond (S∴Y)+ or underwent the deprotonation reaction yielding the α-(alkylthio)alkyl radicals (α-S). The oxidation of Met-containing dipeptides by •OH radicals yielded the formation of Met sulfoxide (MetSO) as a main product. Undoubtedly, the identification and characterization of MetSO in deoxygenated solutions containing catalase was a milestone in investigation of stable products. However, in some cases, other products were identified. The stable products of photolysis were adducts with 3-carboxybenzophenone moiety, resulting from radical recombination reaction. Another identified product formed during photolysis was 3CB-3CB benzpinacol photoadduct, which has similar structure to the product of BP irradiations. Identified products (MetSO and the photo-adduct) were formed from the α-S via disproportionation or reaction with 3CBH•/3CBH•⁻. The oxidation of Met-Lys-Bradykinin (MKBR) yielded formation of similar photo-adducts via sensitized reaction with the 3CB*. The •OH induced oxidation of MKBR yielded several products, e.g. the sulfoxide and hydroxylated phenylalanine. In addition, other derivatives of benzophenone (oxybenzone (OXB) and sulisobenzone (SB)) were investigated due. They are widely used in commercial sun-protecting products dp to their unique photophysical properties. However the application of sunscreens awakes controversies because some epidemiological studies indicated an increased risk of malignant melanoma for their users. Photo-instability of sunscreen filters would result in reduced protection and may produce reactive free radicals or mutagens. In addition, the reactions of the sunscreens with oxygen free radicals e.g. hydroxyl radicals are likely to arise and they were not yet sufficiently documented. Finally, the radiolytic and photolytic properties of SB and OXB were investigated using femto-and nanosecond laser flash photolysis. Pulse radiolysis studies of the oxidation of those molecules by •OH radicals were performed. The results obtained for SB and OXB were compared to several other benzophenone derivatives. The results shown the formation of excited singlet state that was deactivated efficiently via the Excited State Intramolecular Proton Transfer (ESIPT). In case of polar solvent, the formation of trace amounts phenoxyl radicals was identified, while for nonpolar media those radicals were not observed. The reactivity of UV-excited sun filters towards simple derivatives of Met was also investigated, however, this topic requires further and more detailed investigations.
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Influência de micro e nanopartículas lipídicas sólidas na eficácia de formulações fotoprotetoras bioativas / Influence of solid lipid micro and nanoparticles on the efficacy of bioactive photoprotective formulations

Martins, Rodrigo Molina 22 April 2014 (has links)
O presente trabalho teve o objetivo de desenvolver uma formulação tópica contendo os filtros solares benzofenona-3 e avobenzona microencapsulados em associação com filtro solar não encapsulado octocrileno e nanoparticulas lipídicas sólidas contendo rutina (formulação completa) e avaliar a eficácia fotoquimiopreventiva dessa formulação usando biópsias de pele humana e pele reconstruída in vitro. Microparticulas lipídicas sólidas contendo grandes quantidades de filtros solares, benzofenona-3 e avobenzona foram obtidas pela técnica do spray congealing com propriedades adequadas para aplicação tópica. Além disso, o processo de microencapsulação foi capaz de diminuir a penetração de benzofenona-3 na pele, aumentar a estabilidade da avobenzona frente à radiação ultravioleta A e a capacidade fotoprotetora desses filtros microencapsulados em formulações tópicas quando expostos a radiação ultravioleta. Nanopartículas lipídicas sólidas contendo o flavonóide rutina foram produzidas pelo processo de homogeneização a alta pressão e suas condições foram otimizadas pelo método da desejabilidade rendendo nanopartículas lipídicas sólidas com tamanho médio de 74,22 ±2,77 nm, índice de polispersividade de 0,161±0,03 e eficiência de encapsulação de 98,90 ±0,25 %. Em adição, as nanopartículas mostraram serem capazes de proteger a viabilidade celular de fibroblastos de ratos L929 irradiados com radiação ultravioleta A e B. Para a eficácia fotoquimiopreventiva a formulação completa foi capaz de evitar/diminuir a formação de células apoptóticas, caspase-3, dímeros de ciclobutanodipirimidina, metaloproteinases e peroxidação lipídica em pele humana e pele reconstruída expostos a UVB. O processo tecnológico de microencapsulação e nanoencapsulação dos ativos avaliados mostrou ser eficaz, não comprometendo as propriedades de fotoproteção dos filtros solares e rutina, apresentando resultados similares ou melhores do que as formulações contendo os ativos na forma livre. Portanto, o desenvolvimento de formulações contendo ativos microencapsulados e nanoencapsulados é uma alternativa interessante para o emprego em produtos comerciais para proteção solar, por diminuir as características indesejáveis como penetração e instabilidade, melhorando as propriedades fotoprotetoras e evitando a necessidade de desenvolver novos compostos com propriedades fotoprotetoras. / This study aimed the pharmaceutical development of a topical formulation containing an association of microencapsulated sunscreens benzophenone-3 and avobenzone, free sunscreen octocrylene and rutin flavonol solid lipid nanoparticles (complete formulation). This formulation was assessed for photochemoprotective ability using human skin obtained surgically and reconstructed human skin. Solid lipid microparticles containing large amounts of sunscreens benzophenone-3 and avobenzone were obtained by the spray congealing technique under conditions that allowed the manufacture of microparticles with suitable properties for topical application. The microencapsulation conditions were also able to reduce the penetration of benzophenone-3 through the skin, enhanced the stability of avobenzone against the ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and increased the photoprotective ability of both filters in topical formulations exposed to UVR. Solid lipid nanoparticles containing rutin were produced by the high pressure homogenization process whose conditions were optimized using the desirability method, yielding nanoparticles with size of 74.22 ± 2.77 nm, polispersivity index of 0.161 ± 0.03 and encapsulation efficiency of 98.90 ± 0.25%. In addition, the nanoparticles were able to avoid the death of L929 mice fibroblasts exposed to UVR A and B. For the photochemopreventive ability studies, the complete formulation was able to reduce/avoid the induction of apoptotic cells, caspase-3, CPDs, metalloproteinases and lipid peroxides in human skin obtained surgically and reconstructed human skin in vitro exposed to UVB.Thus, the micro and nanoencapsulation solved some intrinsic problems related to sunscreens and rutin without, however, compromising their photohemoprotective ability, since the results showed similar or better efficacy when compared to the formulations containing actives in free form. Therefore, the development of formulations containing microencapsulated and nanoencapsulated compounds is an interesting alternative for employment in commercial products for sun protection by decreasing the undesirable characteristics, such as penetration and instability, improving the photoprotective properties and avoiding the need to develop new compounds with photoprotective characteristics.
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Desenvolvimento de um novo método in vitro para controle de qualidade de protetores solares e otimização do processo de extração de compostos fenólicos antioxidantes do cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon A.) / New in vitro method for quality control of sunscreens and optimization of the extraction process of phenolic antioxidant compounds from cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon A.)

Moraes, Dayane Cristina de 06 March 2018 (has links)
O objetivo, no capítulo I deste trabalho, foi desenvolver e validar um novo método espectrofotométrico in vitro para a avaliação da eficácia de protetores solares, o qual pode ser adotado na rotina industrial como uma maneira de identificar desvios de qualidade e garantir a eficácia de protetores solares a cada novo lote produzido. O método proposto é baseado na absorção espectrofotométrica na região do UV (280-400 nm) de uma camada fina de protetor solar aplicada na face externa de uma cubeta de quartzo preenchida com uma solução padrão (SP) que absorve em toda a região do UV, a fim de obter uma medida de área sob a curva (ASC), empregada como valor de referência para cada FPS testado. Para o desenvolvimento do método, foram utilizados protetores solares da mesma marca, com valores de FPS de 15; 20; 30; 40; 50 e 60, o qual foi aplicado sobre a face externa da cubeta a uma concentração de 0,2 mg/cm2. A SP consistiu de uma solução de quercetina (10 ?g/mL) à qual foram adicionadas 6 gotas de solução de AlCL3 6%. A partir do espectro de absorvância de cada amostra na região de UV foi calculado o valor da ASC. O método demonstrou ser reprodutível, robusto e eficaz para controle de qualidade de protetores solares. Outro importante objetivo desse estudo, descrito no capítulo II, foi determinar as condições ótimas para a extração de compostos fenólicos do cranberry em pó utilizando metodologia de superfície de resposta, empregando quatro variáveis independentes: (i) tempo de extração; (ii) proporção planta:solvente; (iii) temperatura e (iv) velocidade de agitação, segundo desenho experimental do tipo Box-Behnken, com análise de três respostas: teor de polifenois totais (TPT); atividade antioxidante (CI50; DPPH) e teor de sólidos totais (TST). As condições ideais obtidas foram: tempo de extração 5 horas; proporção planta:solvente 1:2; velocidade de agitação 80 RPM e temperatura 45°C, correspondendo aos valores preditos de 433,1 mg/g; 0,100 mg/mL e 19,9% para o TPT; CI50 DPPH e TST, respectivamente. Em seguida, o extrato otimizado de cranberry foi avaliado com relação à sua atividade fotoprotetora/fotoquimioprotetora. Os resultados apresentados neste trabalho demonstraram que o extrato otimizado de cranberry apresenta elevado potencial antioxidante ao inibir a quimioluminescência (CI50 de 0,202 ± 0,32 ?g/mL) e reduzir a peroxidação lipídica (CI50 de 32,6 ± 5,8 ?g/mL). No ensaio de DPPH, obteve-se uma CI50 de 136,7 ±6,8 ?g/mL. Reduziu em 41% a peroxidação lipídica em células L929. Além disso, o extrato incorporado a uma formulação gel-creme, apresentou elevado potencial fotoprotetor in vitro. / The chapter I of this work aims to develop and validate a new in vitro spectrophotometric method for assessing the effectiveness of sunscreens, which can be adopted in industrial routine production as a way to identify quality deviations and ensure the effectiveness of sunscreen product. Briefly, the proposed method is based on the spectrophotometric absortion on the UV region (280-400 nm) of a thin layer of sunscreen sample applied on the outside of a quartz cuvette which is filled with a standard solution (SS). The area under the curve of absorption of SS and sunscreen sample is obtained. For the experiment development, it was used sunscreens products of the same brand with SPF values of 15; 20; 30; 40; 50 and 60 which was applied on the cuvette outside at a concentration of 0,2mg/cm2. The reference standard used consisted of a quercetin solution added of AlCl3 6%. From the absorbance of each sample spectrum in UV region was calculated the value of the area under the curve (AUC). The spectrophotometric method developed was effective for confirm SPF sunscreen products produced batch to batch. In the chapter II, were determined the optimal conditions for phenolic compounds extraction from cranberry powder using the surface response methodology with four independent variables: (i) extraction time (hours); (ii) ratio plant : solvent; (iii) temperature and (iv) speed agitation (RPM) , according to Box-Behnken, with analysis of three answers: total polyphenol content (TPC); antioxidant activity (IC50; DPPH) and total solids content (TSC). The ideal conditions obtained were: extraction time 5 hours; ratio plant:solvent 1:2; agitation speed 80 RPM and temperature 45°C, corresponding to the values predicted of 433.1 mg/g; 0,100 mg/ml and 19.9% for TPC; IC50 DPPH and TSC respectively. Then, the optimized cranberry extract was evaluated with respect to its photoprotective/photochemoprotective activity. Preliminary results presented in this paper demonstrate the ability of optimized cranberry extract to scavenge free radicals, with a high antioxidant potential to inhibit satisfactorily chemiluminescence generated in the system xanthine/XOD/luminol; presenting IC50 0.202 ± 0.32 ?g/ml; lipid peroxidation using yolk egg as lipid substrate, with an IC50 of 32.6 ± 5,8 ?g/ml. In DPPH test, the optimized extract showed an IC50 of 136.7 ± 6.8 mg/mL. The extract was also able to reducing UVB radiation-induced damage at the cellular level in fibroblasts mice of L929 line, with a 41% reduction in lipid peroxidation in cells compared to irradiated control.

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