Thesis (S.M.)--Joint Program in Applied Ocean Science and Engineering (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Mechanical Engineering; and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution), 2012. / Cataloged from PDF version of thesis. / Includes bibliographical references (p. 117-119). / The Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) is a proven technology which is capable of measuring surface wave height and directional information, however it is generally limited to rigid, bottom mounted applications which limit its capabilities for measuring deep water waves. By employing an upward looking ADCP on a moving platform, such as an autonomous underwater vehicle or submerged float, we show that it is possible to remove the wave induced motion of the platform and accurately measure surface ocean wave information. The platform selected for testing was a REMUS-100 vehicle equipped with an upward and downward looking ADCP and high accuracy Kearfott inertial navigation unit. Additionally, a Microstrain 3DM-GX3-25 Attitude Heading Reference System was tested as a low cost alternative to the Kearfott system. An experiment consisting of multiple REMUS deployments was conducted near the Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory (MVCO). The wave induced motion was measured by various inertial and acoustic sensors and removed from the ADCP data record. The surface wave height and mean directional estimates were compared against a Datawell MKIII directional Waverider buoy and bottom mounted 1200 kHz upward looking ADCP at the MVCO. Results demonstrate that the non-directional spectrum of wave height and the mean wave direction as a function of frequency can be accurately measured from an underway autonomous underwater vehicle in coastal depth waters using an ADCP. / by Scott Haven. / S.M.

京都大学 / 0048 / 新制・課程博士 / 博士(工学) / 甲第18257号 / 工博第3849号 / 新制||工||1590(附属図書館) / 31115 / 京都大学大学院工学研究科都市社会工学専攻 / (主査)教授 松岡 俊文, 教授 清野 純史, 教授 小池 克明 / 学位規則第4条第1項該当 / Doctor of Philosophy (Engineering) / Kyoto University / DFAM

Surface waves exist along the interfaces between two different media and are known to display properties that have no analogue in continuous systems. In years past, they have been the subject of many studies in a diverse collection of scientific disciplines. In optics, one of the mechanisms through which optical surface waves can exist is material nonlinearity. Until recently, most of the activity in this area was focused on interfaces between continuous media but no successful experiments have been reported. However, the growing interest that nonlinear discrete optics has attracted in the last two decades has raised the question of whether nonlinear surface waves can exist in discrete optical systems. In this work, a detailed experimental study of linear and nonlinear optical wave propagation at the interface between a discrete one-dimensional Kerr-nonlinear system and a continuous medium (slab waveguide) as well as at the interface between two dissimilar waveguide lattices is presented. The major part of this dissertation is devoted to the first experimental observation of discrete surface solitons in AlGaAs Kerr-nonlinear arrays of weakly coupled waveguides. These nonlinear surface waves are found to localize in the channels at and near the boundary of the waveguide array. The key unique property of discrete surface solitons, namely the existence of a power threshold, is investigated in detail. The second part of this work deals with the linear light propagation properties at the interface between two dissimilar waveguide arrays (so-called waveguide array hetero-junction). The possibility of three different types of linear interface modes is theoretically predicted and the existence of one of them, namely the staggered/staggered mode, is confirmed experimentally. The last part of the dissertation is dedicated to the investigation of the nonlinear properties of AlGaAs waveguide array hetero-junctions. The predicted three different types of discrete hybrid surface solitons are analyzed theoretically. The experimental results on observation of in-phase/in-phase hybrid surface solitons localized at channels on either side of the interface are presented and different nature of their formation is discussed.

The dissertation gives a rigorous study of surface waves on water of finite depth subjected to gravitational force. As for `water', it is an inviscid and incompressible fluid of constant density and the flow is irrotational. The fluid is bounded above by a free surface separating the fluid from the air above (assumed to be a vacuum) and below by a rigid flat bottom. Then, the governing equations for the motion of the fluid flow are called Euler equations. If the initial fluid flow is prescribed at time zero, i.e., mathematically the initial condition for the Euler equations is given, the long-time existence of a unique solution for the Euler equations is still an open problem, even if the initial condition is small (or initial flow is almost motionless). The dissertation tries to make some progress for proving the long-time existence and show that the time interval of the existence is exponentially long, called almost global well-posedness, if the initial condition is small and satisfies some conditions. The main ideas for the study are from the corresponding almost global well-posedness result for surface waves on water of infinite depth. / Doctor of Philosophy / This dissertation concerns the mathematical study of surface waves on water of finite depth under gravitational force. Mathematically, water is considered as a fluid of constant density that has no viscosity and is incompressible. It is also assumed that any portion of the corresponding fluid flow is not rotating. Furthermore, the water is bounded above by a free surface separating the water from the air above and below by a rigid horizontal flat bottom. A natural question to ask is whether the water surface will keep smooth and will not break as time progresses, if a small disturbance on the flat free surface and the tranquil water-body is initially created. The dissertation tries to make some progress on this question by showing that under some mathematical and technical assumptions, the water surface remains smooth and will not break for a very long time by using the mathematical equations derived from the laws of physics.

Yes / This work presents new water surface elevation data including evidence of the spatial correlation of water surface waves generated in shallow water flows over a gravel bed without appreciable bed forms. Careful laboratory experiments have shown that these water surface waves are not well-known gravity or capillary waves but are caused by a different physical phenomenon. In the flow conditions studied, the shear present in shallow flows generates flow structures, which rise and impact on the water-air interface. It is shown that the spatial correlation function observed for these water surface waves can be approximated by the following analytical expression W(rho) = e(-rho 2/2 sigma w2)COS(2 pi L-0(-1)rho). The proposed approximation depends on the spatial correlation radius, sigma(w), characteristic spatial period, L-0, and spatial lag, . This approximation holds for all the hydraulic conditions examined in this study. It is shown that L-0 relates to the depth-averaged flow velocity and carries information on the shape of the vertical velocity profile and bed roughness. It is also shown that sigma(w) is related to the hydraulic roughness and the flow Reynolds number.

No description available.

The Multichannel Analysis of Surface Waves (MASW) method has been widely used to evaluate the subsurface in engineering applications since late 1990’s. In MASW, surface waves are introduced into the subsurface and recorded by sensors along the ground surface. The characteristics of the propagating surface wave are influenced by the subsurface stratification, the manner in which the surface waves are input into the ground, and the survey parameters to acquire data. Rayleigh waves are typically generated by vertical strikes on a metallic plate which serves as a coupler between the active input source (e.g., a sledgehammer) and the ground surface. It has been suggested that plastic-type base plates can improve the low-frequency energy of Rayleigh waves and therefore, can increase the depth of investigation among other potential improvements. However, very little studies exist in the literature that evaluate the role of base plate material, especially plastic materials. In addition to Rayleigh surface waves, seismic surface waves can also be generated with horizontal impacts (i.e., Love waves) using specialized base plates. In this regard, much less is available in the literature regarding Love waves as sources in MASW testing which means that optimum field survey parameters, the effects of near-field, and the role of seismic source have not been thoroughly investigated yet for Love waves. Given the aforementioned gaps in the literature, two aspects of MASW have been investigated. First, the role of base plate material, specifically plastic-type plates, has been studied. Field data collected from six sites along with the data from laboratory experiments and numerical simulations of hammer-plate impact were studied. The results showed that softer base plates improve the energy transfer by as much 20% and lead to minor improvements, typically one-digit numbers in relative changes, in other signal characteristics such as signal bandwidth and signal-to-noise ratio. These results were corroborated with laboratory testing and numerical models of wave propagation with different base plate materials. The second goal was to improve understanding of Love wave propagation, particularly as related to resolution capabilities from survey parameters. Rayleigh and Love waveforms were collected with multiple active seismic sources at three sites and a systematic comparison was made between the two types of waves. Also, seismic wave propagation was simulated using the research community code SPECFEM2D to further investigate their differences. The results revealed critical new information about the depth of investigation, the effects of bedrock location on near-field effects, and the role of the different survey parameters on Rayleigh and Love wave data. The depth of investigation of Love wave MASW was deeper by about 2-9 m than that of Rayleigh MASW as a result of improved minimum frequency. The minimum source offset to avoid near-field effects was comparable for both Rayleigh and Love waves (0.3-0.4 of maximum wavelength). At closer source offset locations, Rayleigh waves were more affected by near-field effects and showed an additional 10% underestimation of planar phase velocities. Overall, the results from both parts of this study provides new practical insights about some of the unexplored aspects of surface wave testing using MASW. / Civil Engineering

Mathematical modeling of ocean waves is based on the formulation and solution of the appropriate equations of continuity, momentum and the choice of proper initial and boundary conditions. Under the influence of gravity, many free surface water waves can be modeled by the shallow water equations (SWE) with the assumption that the horizontal length scale of the wave is much greater than the depth scale and the wave height is much less than the fluid's mean depth. Furthermore, to describe three dimensional flows in the hydrostatic and Boussinesq limits, the multilayer SWE model is used, where the fluid is discretized horizontally into a set of vertical layers, each having its own height, density, horizontal velocity and geopotential. In this study, we used an explicit staggered finite volume method to solve single and multilayer SWE, with and without density stratification and bathymetry, to understand the dynamic of surface waves and internal waves. We implemented a two-dimensional version of the incompressible DYNAMICO method and compare it with a one-dimensional SWE. For multilayer SWE, we considered both two layer and a linear stratification of density, with very small density gradient, consistent with Boussinesq approximation. We used Lagrangian vertical coordinate which doesn't allow mass to flow across vertical layers. Numerical examples are presented to verify multilayer SWE model against single layer SWE, in terms of the phase speed and the steepness criteria of wave profile. In addition, the phase speed of the barotropic and baroclinic mode of two-layer SWE also verified our multilayer SWE model. We found that, for multilayer SWE, waves move slower than single layer SWE and get steeper than normal when they flow across bathymetry. A series of numerical experiment were carried out to compare 1-D shallow water solutions to 2-D solutions with and without density as well as to explain the dynamics of surface wave and internal wave. We found that, a positive fluctuations on free surface causes water to rise above surface level, gravity pulls it back and the forces that acquired during the falling movement causes the water to penetrate beneath it's equilibrium level, influences the generation of internal waves. Internal waves travel considerably more slowly than surface waves. On the other hand, a bumpy or a slicky formation of surface waves is associated with the propagation of internal waves. The interaction between these two waves is therefore demonstrated and discussed. / Thesis / Master of Science (MSc) / In the modelling of ocean wave, the formulation and solution of appropriate equations and proper initial and boundary conditions are required. The shallow water equations (SWE) are derived from the conservation of mass and momentum equations, in the case where the horizontal length scale of the wave is much greater than the depth scale and the wave height is much less than the fluid's mean depth. In multilayer SWE, the fluid is discretized horizontally into a set of vertical layers, each having its own height, density, horizontal velocity and geopotential. In this study, we used an explicit staggered finite volume method to solve single and multilayer SWE, with and without density stratification and bathymetry, to understand the dynamic of surface waves and internal waves. A series of numerical experiments were carried out to validate our multilayer model. It is found that, in the presence of density differences, surface waves for the multilayer SWE move slowly and get more steep than normal when they flow across bathymetry. Also, a positive fluctuations on free surface generates internal waves at the interior of ocean which propagate along the line of density gradient.

Lateral perturbations in anelasticity (Q) and wave speed together provide important constraints on thermal and chemical structures in the mantle. In present-day tomography studies of global wave speed and anelasticity, the significance of 3-D wave speed and 3-D Q structures on surface wave travel times and amplitudes has not been well understood. In this dissertation, the effects of lateral perturbations in anelasticity (Q) and wave speed on surface wave observables are quantified based upon wave propagation simulations in 3-D earth models using a Spectral Element Method. Comparison between phase delays caused by 3-D wave speed structures and those caused by 3-D Q variations show that anelastic dispersion due to lateral perturbation in Q is important in long-period surface wave and can account for 15-20% observed phase delays. For amplitude perturbations, elastic focusing/defocusing effects associated with 3-D wave speed structures are dominant while energy dissipation is important in short-period (~ 50 s) surface waves but decreases quickly with increasing wave period. Anelastic focusing/defocusing associated with 3-D anelastic dispersion becomes more important than wave attenuation in longer period surface waves. In tomography studies, ray theory breaks down and finite frequency effects become important when the length scale of heterogenities are smaller than seismic wavelength. Finite frequency effects in 3-D earth models are investigated by comparing theoretical predictions of travel times and amplitudes with "ground truth" measurements made on synthetic seismograms generated in SEM simulations. The comparisons show that finite frequency effects are stronger in amplitudes than in phases, especially at long periods. / Ph. D.

Laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the effect of low relative depth and high Froude number on the dimensionless critical shear stress (Shields parameter). Spherical particles of four different densities and an 8mm diameter were used as movable test material. The relative depth ranged from 2 to 12 and the Froude number ranged from 0.36 to 1.29. The results show that the traditional Shields diagram cannot be used to predict the incipient motion of coarse sediment particles when the relative depth is below 10 and the Froude number is above 0.5, approximately. Experiments using glass balls, whose density is almost identical to that of natural gravel, show that the Shields parameter can be twice as large in shallow flows than in deep flows. The results also show that the Shields parameter is dependent on the density of the particles. Data obtained from other studies support the findings of the present work. These findings can result in significant cost savings for riprap. Additionally, velocity profiles using a laser-Doppler velocimeter (LDV) were taken for the glass ball incipient motion experiments. The purpose of this was to study possible changes in the velocity distribution with decreasing relative depth and increasing Froude number. The results show that the von Karman and integral constants in the law of the wall do not change in the range of relative depths and Froude numbers tested. / Master of Science