Thesis (M. A.)--Florida State University, 2006. / Advisor: Daniel J. Pullen, Florida State University, College of Visual Arts, Theatre and Dance, Dept. of Art History. Title and description from dissertation home page (viewed Sept. 18, 2006). Document formatted into pages; contains xi, 125 pages. Includes bibliographical references.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Northwestern University, 2004. / Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 65-05, Section: A, page: 1766. Adviser: John H. Wright.

Thesis (B.S.)--University of Wisconsin -- La Crosse, 2009. / Also available online. Includes bibliographical references (p. 44-49).

The aim of this work was to establish a range of suitable process parameters which can be utilized to produce needlepunched nonwoven fabrics for geotextile applications. Nonwoven fabrics were produced from 100% PP, a blend of 50/50% PP/kenaf and 100% kenaf fibres. The depths of needle penetration of 4, 7 and 10 mm, stroke frequencies of 250, 350 and 450 strokes/min and mass per unit area of 300, 600 and 900 g/m2 were utilized for producing the fabrics, on a Dilo loom. The effect of depth of needle penetration, stroke frequency and mass per unit area on the fabric properties, namely, tensile strength, puncture resistance, pore size, water permeability and transmissivity were analysed. In addition, the effect of chemicals, namely, 10% ammonium hydroxide (NH4OH), 10% sodium chloride (NaCl) and 3% sulphuric acid (H2SO4) solutions on degradation of the fabric was also studied. The results have shown that density, thickness and nominal weight of the needlepunched nonwoven fabrics were related to each other and they were influenced by stroke frequency, depth of needle penetration and feed rate of the needlepunching process. The increase in nominal weight of the fabrics also increases thickness and density of the fabrics. The tensile strength and puncture resistance of the fabrics increased with the increases in stroke frequency, depth of needle penetration and fabric mass per unit area. However, lower tensile strength and puncture resistance were achieved in the fabrics produced at lower stroke frequency, lower depth of needle penetration and lower mass per unit area. Bigger pores were resulted in the fabrics produced at lower stroke frequency, lower depth of needle penetration and lower mass per unit area, however, pore size decreased with increases in stroke frequency, depth of needle penetration and mass per unit area. Water permeability depends on the pore size, properties of the fibres, stroke frequency, depth of needle penetration and mass per unit area. Higher tensile strength and higher puncture resistance were achieved in the needlepunched nonwoven fabrics produced from 100% PP fibres, therefore, they are suitable for some load-bearing geotextile applications, such as reinforcement and separation. However, higher water permeability was achieved in the fabrics produced from 100% kenaf fibres, therefore, they are ideal for geotextile applications where good water permeability is required. Higher values for transmissivity were obtained in the fabrics produced from a blend of 50/50% PP/kenaf fibres, therefore they are suitable for drainage applications. The fabrics produced from a blend of 50/50% PP/kenaf fibres achieved better values of tensile strength, puncture resistance, pore size and water permeability in comparison to that produced from 100% PP and 100% kenaf fibres. However, better tensile strength and puncture resistance were achieved in the fabrics produced from 100% PP fibres and bigger pore size and higher water permeability were achieved in the fabrics produced from 100% kenaf fibres. Therefore, it can be suggested that the nonwoven fabrics produced from a blend of 50/50% PP/kenaf fibres can fulfil almost all requirements of geotextile applications, such as, filtration, separation, reinforcement and drainage. The fabrics produced from 100% PP fibres were not damaged or deteriorated when treated with all the three chemicals due to chemical inertness of polypropylene. However, the fabrics produced from a blend of 50/50% PP/kenaf and 100% kenaf fibres were damaged and deteriorated when treated with H2SO4.

Thesis (MTech (Design))--Cape Peninsula University of Technology, 2011 / Sustainable architecture prescribes the conscious consideration and active contemplation of ways of meeting the housing needs of humans while attempting simultaneously to prevent our consumption patterns from exceeding the resources at our disposal. Sustainability in the built environment is infinitely complex as the very nature of modern architecture is based upon the extraction and exploitation of finite natural resources to feed a linear system ultimately ending in the depletion of those resources and the destruction of the ecosystem from which they are excavated. When considering built environments, the most visible and measurable components of any sustainable design is its ecological and economic sustainability. Social sustainability, on the other hand is of an unquantifiable nature, making it a most contentious topic in design and development discourse. This thesis uses a systems approach to sustainable architecture as a lens to focus on the practical applications of structural concepts made possible by the integration of textiles in the built environment and examines possibilities of adapting and incorporating vernacular and low-tech textile-based construction methods into contemporary sustainable architecture. More specifically, it explores the possibilities of using architextiles, or textiles in the building industry, as a vehicle for advancing sustainable development within the emerging economy of South Africa with its unambiguous diversity in all three bottom lines of sustainability; environment (ecology, resources, geography, built environment), society (community, culture, politics) and economy (employment, wealth, finance, industry, infrastructure, consumer behaviour).

Orientador: Franco Giuseppe Dedini / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Faculdade de Engenharia Mecanica / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-08T23:58:43Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Sanches_ReginaAparecida_D.pdf: 6482630 bytes, checksum: 884aa0c09cfb0b504f3db72a091fa6ca (MD5) Previous issue date: 2006 / Resumo: As características que determinam a qualidade de um produto de vestuário começam com a seleção das matérias primas, fibras, fios e tecidos, passando pelas fases de criação, desenvolvimento, confecção e acabamento. O objetivo deste trabalho é propor um procedimento para a seleção de matéria prima que será utilizada na fabricação de artigos para vestuário. Foram escolhidos fios de algodão, visando à produção de artigos confortáveis e fios de poliamida e de poliéster texturados ao ar, que possibilitam a produção de artigos com aspecto e toque de fibra natural. Para cada matéria prima, foi montado um planejamento fatorial 22, com o objetivo de identificar os fatores de controle da máquina circular que irão influenciar nas características das malhas. Utilizando a programação linear foi feita a otimização dos parâmetros de controle da máquina e produzidos tecidos de malha com mesmas características. A seleção da matéria prima ideal para a produção dos artigos foi feita utilizando o AHP ¿ Método de Análise Hierárquica / Abstract: The characteristics which determine the quality of a clothing product begin with the choice of raw materials, fibers, yarns and fabrics passing through the creation, development, apparel industry and finishing. The purpose of this work is to propose a proceeding for helping the development of textile products. Cotton yarns were chosen aiming at the production of comfortable goods and polyamide and polyester air textured yarns, which enable the production of goods with natural fiber look and hand. For each raw material, it was provided a 22 factorial design, aiming at identifying the control factors of the circular machine which influence the knitted fabrics. Using the linear programming, the optimization of the machine control parameters was done and knitted fabrics, with the same characteristics, were produced. The choice of the ideal raw material for the production of the goods has been done using the AHP ¿ Analytic Hierarchy Process / Doutorado / Mecanica dos Sólidos e Projeto Mecanico / Doutor em Engenharia Mecânica

The Sonochemistry Centre at Coventry University is one of a group of organisations working on a project to develop a new technology for producing antimicrobial textiles. This technology involves the use of an ultrasonic process (sonochemical) to generate and impregnate fabrics with antibacterial metal oxide nanoparticles. The expectation is that these textiles can be produced at an affordable price for routine use in hospitals as uniforms, curtains, hospital bed sheets and linen. The aim of this PhD project was to assess the antibacterial activity of fabrics impregnated with ZnO and CuO NPs against a variety of Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria. The testing was principally carried out according to the absorption method from ISO 20743:2007. Research was also extended to compare different methods of assessing antibacterial activity of textile fabrics. These included disc diffusion tests and shake flask tests in saline or nutrient broth. Overall the results from absorption tests demonstrated that both the ZnO and CuO impregnated fabrics showed very good levels of antibacterial activity (A>2) against the test bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus, Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus, Acinetobacter baumannii, Escherichia coli, Klebsiella pneumoniae and Pseudomonas aeruginosa). During the optimisation of lab scale process to the pilot scale, two different types of CuO fabrics were produced to test and compare the antibacterial activity. One type of fabrics were impregnated with pre-made CuO nanoparticles by a ‘throwing the stones’ technology termed TTS and the other with sonochemically formed nanoparticles (in-situ), same as the lab process. The results indicated that the fabrics impregnated with sonochemically formed NPs displayed better antibacterial activity than the pre-made NPs. Leaching of the antibacterial agents in to saline was investigated using a shake flask method. CuO and ZnO coated fabrics prepared at laboratory scale were tested against Staphylococcus aureus, Acinetobacter baumannii and Escherichia coli. It was found that leachates prepared by shaking the fabrics in saline for 3 hours showed no antibacterial activity for CuO fabrics. However, leachates from ZnO fabrics showed an excellent activity after 24 ± 3 hours against all three bacterial species. Flow cytometry (FC) was investigated as an alternative to standard agar plate count (PC) methods for the determination of viable cell numbers. There was a general agreement between the results from agar plate counts and flow cytometry except that post incubation counts were greater with FC. The higher numbers of viable cells detected with FC may have been due to the presence of viable but not culturable cells (VBNC). Viable cells were observed by fluorescence microscopy in post incubation samples in which no viable cells were detected on nutrient agar plates. Cytotoxicity studies were conducted on ZnO and CuO fabrics from the pilot scale (both in-situ and TTS) against human dermal fibroblast cells (HDF) and human hepatocellular carcinoma cells (HepG2) using a MTT assay to determine cell viability. The results showed that ZnO and CuO are not toxic to HDF cells. However, cytotoxicity was seen in HepG2 cells with cell viability decreasing by > 14% for all the fabrics after 24 hours.

This thesis focuses on the production and display of weavings made by a small number of Musqueam women, who in the 1980s began weaving in the tradition of their ancestors. It addresses the way in which these weavings, positioned throughout Vancouver and worn in public settings, build a visual presence to counter the exclusion of Coast Salish cultural representations from the public construction of history in Vancouver and the discourse of Northwest Coast art. The Vancouver International Airport and the Museum of Anthropology at the University o f British Columbia both share with Musqueam a history of place. A distinct relationship fostered between Museum staff and members of the Musqueam community has yielded several exhibits since the first, Hands of Our Ancestors: The Revival of Weaving at Musqueam, opened in 1986. The presence of Musqueam material at the Museum is part of an extensive history of interaction and negotiation between Canadian museums and the cultural communities whose histories, traditions and material culture are represented - a history which encompasses issues of representation, authorship and authority. The Vancouver International Airport is also situated on Musqueam traditional territory. Designed by representatives from the Musqueam Cultural Committee and the Airport project team, the international arrivals area features works of contemporary Musqueam artists which are intended to create a sense of place with an emphasis on the distinctiveness of its location. Travelers cross several thresholds in the terminal - the sequence o f these crossings carefully choreographed so that deplaning passengers pass from the non-space of international transience to a culturally specific space marked by Musqueam's cultural representations, and then past Customs into Canada. Certain incidents at these sites indicate that visibility and self-representation do not in themselves answer the problems of power and history. When the Museum of Anthropology hosted a meeting for leaders of the Asia Pacific Economic Community in 1997, a newly implemented protocol agreement between Musqueam and the Museum was broken; and in a number of instances, achievements at the Airport have also been impaired. Despite these limits, weavings are not examples of token native inclusion as some critics argue. Rather, they are cultural representations strategically deployed by the Musqueam community. Enlarged from traditional blankets to monumental hangings, these weavings participate with other more recognized monumental Northwest Coast forms. They are visual, public signifiers of Musqueam identity which, without violating boundaries between public and private knowledge, carry messages from the community to a broader audience - messages intended to mark Musqueam's precedence in Vancouver's past as well as to claim visibility in the present. / Arts, Faculty of / Art History, Visual Art and Theory, Department of / Graduate

No description available.

The original goal of this research was to produce a user friendly program that could simulate fabric drape on a manikin through computer graphics. This graphics program operates with a data base of fabric properties in order to create draped fabric shapes for a variety of fabrics as they would form a garment on the human body (Dhande, Rao, Tavakkoli, and Moore, 1993). A modification of the Fabric Research Laboratories (FRL) Drapemeter was developed with interchangeable pedestals and platform disks in order to investigate the effects of drape overhang length and different platform shapes and radii of edges on the node counts and drape values of two medium weight woven apparel fabrics and to provide a means for collecting data needed for the graphics program. Specimens were cut from two medium weight fabrics into circles with 10, 14, and 18 inch diameters and ovals with lOX 11 and 18 X 19 inch diameters. Statistical analysis indicated that the modified drapemeter measures fabric drape as accurately as the FRL drapemeter; therefore, the modified drapemeter was found to be reliable for measuring drape. ANOVA factorial analysis revealed that pedestal height can be altered without concern for precision in drape measurement. Drape coefficients were found to be significantly affected by fabric drape overhang length. Statistical analysis also indicated a significant relationship between platform shapes and drape coefficients. Drape coefficients for platform edge radii were found to be significantly different but without a linear relationship. / Master of Science